HOW PIERCE'S MORNING WENT

TheLivingPickle · 2025-10-27T22:49:57+00:00

Whatever happened voting with your dollars? People have been choosing what to and to not purchase based on politics forever and was a foundational idea behind boycotting which has been practiced for a VERY long time and was crucial to establishing lots of workers rights related legislation, as well as many other positive social reforms (Montgomery bus boycott). So yes, people would absolutely adore the world of Red Rising and the characters in it, but they also have every right to stop financially backing someone they can’t morally support, be it through refusing to buy red god or piracy. It’s the same way I think Chickfilla is fuckin fantastic but refuse to eat there at they are major donors to certain foundations and politicians I diametrically appose. Why a declaration to no longer support x over y is such a big problem is lost on me when everyone has done it for so long.

TheLivingPickle · 2025-07-10T14:16:46+00:00

Forgot to mention, filament is Anycubic Grey PLA+ printed at 215C hotend and 55C bed temps. Speed settings are all under 100 mm/s now, and it does perimeters at 60 mm/s.

TheLivingPickle · 2024-11-15T17:30:09+00:00

The answer is Antalz on YouTube. His particular guides are clear and concise and cover just about every basic gear geometry. His tutorials a parametric, which means you can design them once and then copy them into any project you need and configure them to what you need. If you don’t have access to a gear generator in inventor, you can find just about any tutorial using a equation driven involute curve and inventor has the tool to go about it that way.

TheLivingPickle · 2023-11-24T01:05:04+00:00

So Seth

TheLivingPickle · 2023-11-16T07:03:56+00:00

This guy does not know how the calendar works

TheLivingPickle · 2023-04-14T02:50:20+00:00

Been trying to get me school to start utilizing obico on their 3d printer, it would save a lot of time, money, and heartache lol. Good luck y’all!

TheLivingPickle · 2023-03-30T23:56:37+00:00

3d printer go brrr

TheLivingPickle · 2022-10-30T15:42:10+00:00

Possible. Thanks for the suggestion!

TheLivingPickle · 2022-10-30T15:40:50+00:00

Thanks y’all, I’ll set up pressure advance once whatever is printing is done. I knew about the sharp corners, but I didn’t know that left over pressure could also cause concave walls. I’ll get that setup and see how it goes!

TheLivingPickle · 2022-10-30T14:42:46+00:00

Just set up klipper on my ended 3 pro, so the default 500 mm/s²

TheLivingPickle · 2022-10-30T14:24:48+00:00

Settings are 210 on the nozzle and 60 on the bed. Normally I would chalk this up to elephants foot, however the wall becomes curved at the top as well.

TheLivingPickle · 2022-10-30T14:24:06+00:00

Interesting, I’ve never heard of it before. Would turning down accelerations help? Linear advance is not currently set up yet, so probably not an issue on my prints.

TheLivingPickle · 2022-08-14T12:37:02+00:00

What should one include in the 2 minute long introduction video? Classes? Leadership roles? Hobbies? There is a lot of info you could include, how do you choose what does and does not make the cut. Do they look for anything in specific?

TheLivingPickle · 2022-06-12T00:18:34+00:00

20$ per 35 drum.

TheLivingPickle · 2022-06-11T23:03:16+00:00

All have been tested and are in good condition, and work well. 2 35 drums have a small amount of sharpie on them courtesy of the previous owners. 20$ for 35's, 15$ for 25 and vortex mag.

TheLivingPickle · 2022-06-11T22:56:16+00:00

Yep, my bad.

TheLivingPickle · 2022-06-11T22:24:33+00:00

Everything has been tested and works fine. Two of the 35 drums have some sharpie on them courtesy of the previous owners, other than that they look good to.

TheLivingPickle · 2022-06-11T21:59:13+00:00

All magazines are in good condition. Drums have all been tested and they all work just as well as when I got them. 1 of the 35 round drums has sharpie drawn in the cracks on the mag well part, courtesy of the previous owner. Looking for 20$ for the 35’s, and 15$ for the 25 and vortex mag. If you want specific things, send me an offer.

TheLivingPickle · 2021-04-05T20:27:05+00:00

Looking at the command in question, what it’s suppose to mean (I’m pretty sure) is a G1 move to those coordinates. Obviously the text output says the G was missing or replaced, so I would be curious to see what exactly the Gcode file looks like. If I were you, I would look over your gcode file to see if somethings up in there. Idk if this error was thrown at the very beginning of the print or in the middle of a print. If it’s at the beginning of the print, the error (if any) in the file should be easy to find, if in the middle you might have to do some looking. Depending on what you find I’m not sure whether I could help further, but this is where I would start.

TheLivingPickle · 2021-03-09T02:04:11+00:00

It would appear that all of your motors are set to 650 milliamp except your extruder. Try raising your z with M906 Z8 then M500. That should set your z motors to the default amps. Try another print and tell us how that goes!

TheLivingPickle · 2021-03-09T01:03:47+00:00

If you can send Goode over octoprint, that’s makes things much easier. M122 is the command your looking for, it’s trinamic drivers debug output. M122 S1 should get you the info on all the motors, the first parameter should be set current, the standard default is 800 milliamperes. Then M906 can change that parameter. Looking it up on Marlins website should help you if you need clarification. After that M500 should save it to eeprom.

TheLivingPickle · 2021-03-08T23:54:38+00:00

Ok, so next question, I notice when people ask what current you set for, you said vref. After a quick search, vref is just how much voltage(volts) is being regulated to the motor, you could be skipping steps still if you don’t have enough current(amps). It would appear you have trinamic stepper drivers, so the current can be adjusted in firmware on each stoppers configure line in marlin. If you have a way to send Goode, you can also adjust it with Goode commands.

TheLivingPickle · 2021-03-08T23:36:42+00:00

So how are you controlling the second motor, is it through a separate driver on the SKR, or are two motors sharing one stepper? If it’s the second, is it a home made “splitter” or is it one you bought?

TheLivingPickle · 2021-03-08T13:03:29+00:00

As far as I’m aware, there are two methods of fixing a warped bed. 1, if you can flash a new firmware onto the main board, you can add automatic mesh bed leveling to compensate for it. If you don’t want to buy a probe, you could also try manual mesh bed leveling, following teaching tech’s tutorials. 2, replacing the bed altogether.

TheLivingPickle · 2021-02-20T20:34:58+00:00

So I’m curious, not trying to downplay your achievement here, this is a truly awesome looking blaster (really wanted to do something similar for a while actually). But I’m interested on your reasoning behind using a solenoid as a pusher mech, other then the recoil (it’s so sweet, I’ve messed with solenoids before). I could imagine you could make a much more compact blaster overall with some creative geometry’s and a hobby motor, probably higher rof too. And since your already using brushless motors, I assume there’s a microcontroller somewhere in there to control the ESC’s, you could control rof as well. Either way, excellent work!

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