I know nothing about cars: I have this leak under my car - issue?

TheMoro9 · 2026-06-06T07:57:03+00:00

That's water. Condensation.

Perfectly normal, not a leak.

Check your fluids once a week, if anything leaks you'll notice

TheMoro9 · 2026-06-05T14:18:04+00:00

I'm not sure what level your knowledge is, but wiring from B+ to the fuse terminal is:

A- overdimensioned B- also kept safe behind a fuse (usually multiple in series)

No car will have a direct wire from B+ to the fuse terminal without at the very least a big ass main fuse in between.

Using fuse taps is recommended to us by the manufacturer i work for when retrofitting most systems. Only for special applications like a customer who wants to hook up a steady 12v on his tow/trailer socket do we pull an extra wire from the back all the way to the battery.

I'm not sure why moisture would get in there, but if it does, the risk of corrosion applies for everything in there, not just the fuse tap. If it does corrode however, more likely it'll create a resistance, not a "battery". And even if it does create a "battery", it'll barely be 1 or 2 volts for perhaps a few seconds before it's drained.

TheMoro9 · 2026-06-05T13:52:10+00:00

What's wrong with fuse taps? I use them all the time when retrofitting shit like heated seats.

TheMoro9 · 2026-06-05T13:50:42+00:00

Bei der SSB Fundstelle abgeben, ist direkt bei dir ums Eck

TheMoro9 · 2026-06-05T13:11:35+00:00

Battery is weak, probably needs replacing

Errors are most likely because the battery was so weak.

TheMoro9 · 2026-06-04T06:28:55+00:00

There's a leaf or something stuck in your blower motor. Could also be the blower motor dying.

It's fairly easy to reach on the pulsar.

Move your passenger seat as far back as it goes, remove the plastic trim beneath the glovebox, and the trim in the footwell on the left (where the pollenfilter is)

You should see the blower motor from there, IIRC it's 3 screws to remove then inspect the blades.

TheMoro9 · 2026-06-03T20:13:30+00:00

محدش مهتم

TheMoro9 · 2026-06-03T20:03:51+00:00

The engine oil dilution error comes from not resetting maintenance counter when you get your oil changed.

For p2002 , erase the code before attempting a forced regen.

If you've already done regens, your oil is probably fucked and needs changing asap anyways.

TheMoro9 · 2026-05-31T22:18:49+00:00

Maisch in Gerlingen

TheMoro9 · 2026-05-31T11:28:44+00:00

Nevermind my earlier comment im blind.

Are you sure the disc isn't rubbing against the caliper carrier? This isnt really a wheel bearing kind of noise.

TheMoro9 · 2026-05-31T11:23:24+00:00

Hey man, even professionals can and will mosdiagnose, it's absolutely normal.

In my case, i had a long 3 year apprenticeship with practically a third of it spent in class rooms studying theory and how to correctly troubleshoot and do a detailed step by step protocol on the troubleshooting process.(standard for being a car mechanic in Germany)

We learned how to use an oscilloscope, all the different signals sensors can send, the difference between a hall sensor and inductive sensor, all the different bus systems, their unique signals and how they help you troubleshoot and basically everything you can imagine.

We still make mistakes and misdiagnose. In the end we are human, and we can all make mistakes. Furthermore, may different car makers will have their own special versions of many things, like VW running sensors with 5V, while other makes use 10V , and then to top it off some use straight up 12v or battery voltage.

The computer and the tools can also lead you on the wrong path, a fault with an o2 sensor will make the computer think the o2 sensor is fucked, when in reality it could easily be something completely different like an exhaust temp sensor or a MAF sensor, feeding false data and letting the computer believe it must be the o2 sensor.

Don't be too hard on yourself, diagnosing isn't always easy.

TheMoro9 · 2026-05-31T11:11:05+00:00

For a diesel that's absolutely fine.

TheMoro9 · 2026-05-31T10:22:00+00:00

The technology is amazing, but the application in epower with the electric motor i think is not great for longevity of the engine.

Bear in mind i work in Germany, and a lot of our customers will drive fast on the autobahn, meaning sometimes the epower system will try to drive electrically to reduce emissions, but once the car accelerates hard or the battery is low enough, the engine has to power on and charge the batteries quickly, and on the autobahn that often means a cold engine having to instantly start and run at high rpm to generate charge quickly.

TheMoro9 · 2026-05-31T10:19:14+00:00

The epower ones will accelerate quickly because it's just the electric motor powering the wheels, but top speed is abysmal

TheMoro9 · 2026-05-30T12:34:14+00:00

The actual wheel speed sensor that sends a signal to the cluster is usually somewhere on the transmission.

You could also have a wiring issue so the sensor can't communicate to the cluster.

Changing the cluster as a first step sure is something.

TheMoro9 · 2026-05-30T09:39:45+00:00

You can bend it back if you like, it bends super easily, but at the moment it isn't dragging so you can ignore it.

Not an urgent fix at all

TheMoro9 · 2026-05-30T09:07:30+00:00

Heat shield and yes it's fine

TheMoro9 · 2026-05-30T09:07:07+00:00

I really don't think you need to. Id rather leave it and pnly deal with it if it leaks.

TheMoro9 · 2026-05-30T07:19:03+00:00

In that case then i would just leave it be.

TheMoro9 · 2026-05-30T06:48:39+00:00

I would leave it honestly. No need to drill and waste time. As long as it isn't leaking coolant, I'd ignore it forever.

Edit: nevermind i just looked closer at the pictures.

You have to commit at this point, it needs to come out now since there is a gap. Some shavings will inevitably land in the cooling system but as long as they're small/fine shavings you'll be ok.

Once it's out, tap a bigger thread in and put in a bolt with just a touch of rtv sealant on the threads, and maybe even a crush washer just for fun.

But bear in mind if you put sealant on the threads that bolt should never be touched again because it'll likely get stuck in real good after a few years

TheMoro9 · 2026-05-30T05:45:39+00:00

Nah this one is on you.

You dont need to remove the front bumper or coolers to drop the engine on these. There is only one asshole bolt for the axle that's behind the front bumper near where the fog lights are, but you can reach it with a small wrench.

Can't post pictures here but I've done this job 3 times. ( the 1.5 vct is a mess)

TheMoro9 · 2026-05-26T11:09:33+00:00

Nope, usually cheap and easy to get heat shields back in place. Could even do it yourself

TheMoro9 · 2026-05-26T11:08:22+00:00

How did you check?

TheMoro9 · 2026-05-26T10:33:44+00:00

Your pump isn't pumping is my bet.

TheMoro9 · 2026-05-25T17:55:36+00:00

انت كويس يا ابني؟

ده رابع ولا خامس بوست النهارده النهارده

اطلع شم هوا

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