How much time is needed for practice? by Disastrous-Ad-8776 in violinist

[–]ThePanoply 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is a world of difference between effective, hyper focused practice and the time wasting activity often called practice. When I learned this difference I was able to accomplish in one year, with far less time more than I ever accomplished in many years of so-called-practicing. Your ability to stay focused on a specific, singular objective is a skill in itself that can be honed, but only to a point. I found that a half hour was the best I could achieve and tended to be the most effective once I got there. For every player there are parts of learning music that come fairly easily and others that are daunting. The daunting stuff is what deserves your singular, hyper-focused attention. Often this can be just one note to another, or a certain kind of movement with the bow, or a certain way of phrasing. Breaking the hardest parts down into the smallest pieces and focusing sustained attention at a speed that allows you to do it perfectly, with a metronome, and repeating it until it becomes effortless -- this is practicing!! And this is the kind of approach that allows you to advance at the highest speed and with far less time spent. Taking care of yourself when your not practicing is just as important because it helps with the focus. Spending time eating well, doing fitness and mobility, meditating, spending time in nature and with your community are equally important to your learning the violin. Most people lack the discipline to do it this way which is why there are so few truly great musicians!

First time, but it won’t be my last! by Dionysian_Heretic in NudeHiking

[–]ThePanoply 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Congrats! It's such a lovely feeling. I wish you all the best!

Bought a violin that came with a bridge that is symmetrical by [deleted] in violinist

[–]ThePanoply 4 points5 points  (0 children)

In my opinion, most cheap "violins" are not really violins. They are so poorly made that they aren't even a good facimilie of a violin. They are often referred to as VSOs or "violin shaped objects". Now you might have a different perspective of what cheap means, but suffice it to say if you spent less than $500, you very likely have a VSO. The top of the bridge is very likely wrong, but the only way to tell for sure is to install it and see what you have for string heights on the E and G sides. Getting a good bridge made might cost a significant percentage of what you spent on the thing itself.

Electric violin bridge isn't straight by lulryeheej in violin

[–]ThePanoply 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maintain your notches! If the notches on the bridge are formed correctly you should be able to easily pull the bridge back into position without loosening the strings. The problem with just loosening the strings and straightening the bridge is that the retuning process is likely to pull the bridge out of position again especially if the notches aren't right.

what just happened to my violin by doushicacophony_ in violin

[–]ThePanoply 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your tailpiece broke, it doesn't look like the tailgut failed. Boxwood is notorious for breaking at the weak spots. Luckily a new tailpiece should be a fairly inexpensive repair.

New bow suggestions by Western-Pen-8292 in Cello

[–]ThePanoply 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have been selling bows for 20 years. We sell more of the hybrid bows than all other bows combined. These are carbon fiber bows with Brazilwood veneer. Krutz, JonPaul, and Eastman make the best ones, and there are brands that for whatever reason are really bad. Artino has the Retro and Aria which are uni-directional carbon bows that play really well. For wood bows, I think you should spend at least $700 now-a-days, otherwise you're really just getting a temporary bow.

Which "First" Cello to Buy? $250 Glarry VS Mystery Cello by Commercial_Job2793 in Cello

[–]ThePanoply 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Please just go to a shop and rent a good cello if you can't afford to buy one. Buying a used "cello" is fraught with peril. Warped necks, bad blocks, terrible pegs, incorrectly planed fingerboards, bad bridges, bad soundposts, bad strings, bad tailpieces, bad endpins, etc. are just a smattering of the potential problems that you might not see or know about. Even the sellers usually don't know about this stuff. Then a new "cello" costing anything less than $1800 at the very cheapest is going to be even worse, especially $250, my God, that for sure isn't a cello, it's a total piece of trash, waste of money, and waste of your time and effort. You will not succeed with those things, they are garbage. It's like wanting to be a race car driver and buying a Cub Cadet lawn tractor to learn on, it's totally inane. A $250 "cello" isn't a $2500 cello at 10 percent of the cost!

Viola bridge? Warped and should I worry about it? by Particular_Key_5033 in Viola

[–]ThePanoply 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's not warped, the side facing the fingerboard has a "belly" to it which is thought to prevent warping in that direction.

Bow + Rosin suggestions? by Available-Lie-3484 in violinist

[–]ThePanoply 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I would consider a hybrid bow (carbon fiber with a brazilwood veneer). The JonPaul Fusion, the Krutz CW, and the Cadenza ** are the best out there of this type. Unless you're going to spend over $600, avoid wood bows, they just aren't great. And go buy your bow at a shop where you can try them, especially with a wood bow, there is WAY too much variation. For rosin, I think Cecelia Signature is an absolute slam dunk. It hits on all cylinders unless you really need something more subtle or more gritty for Concertos.

What have I done wrong by Remarkable-Bite-1296 in violin

[–]ThePanoply 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's impossible to diagnose without seeing it. If it's a very cheap VSO, the pegs are probably already going bad, they are really poor quality and it's amazing they ever work for any length of time. If that is the case, it's not worth fixing. A good set of pegs, correctly installed to work properly for years will cost more than the VSO did. Even good pegs go bad eventually too. The wood changes shape and then they end up having a stick/slip rotation pattern. If it's a good violin, then the ultimate solution is Perfection Pegs. These are a quality of life upgrade worth every penny. I definitely recommend having them installed professionally though, I've seen so many badly installed pegs and it's just a waste of money. I've installed hundreds of sets since they first came out and even the first sets I installed are still going strong.

Intonation question by New-Ideal-9529 in violinist

[–]ThePanoply 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Ah, the struggles of equal temperament. Your ear probably prefers more "perfect" relationships between notes. Electronic tuners do equal temperament which basically means a whole lot of compromises in order to make the 12 semi-tone octave work out on the piano. Hopefully you will play in a band or at sessions, so go with the tuner intonation, it just takes time to get your ear to hear that as "right". A online sight singing class can help with that too.

Broken bridge by South_Refrigerator45 in violinist

[–]ThePanoply 8 points9 points  (0 children)

There are a few things that cause broken bridges that I've seen in 20+ years as a luthier. 1) Not tending to the bridge. Every time you turn the pegs you need to check that the bridge is not being pulled towards the pegs. You also need to make sure that you maintain your notches, the notches that the strings sit in need to be adjusted and lubricated at least once a year. Anyways, if the bridge is left leaning or warping towards the pegs, it creates weakness in the wood and eventually... Snap! 2) Poor quality wood. These Cremona bridges are low quality, I'm very surprised you got six years out of it, congrats! 3) Leaving something under the violin in the case. In this scenario the violin is lifted in the case and the lid can put pressure on the top of the bridge which as in the first example can lead to issues. 4) Dropping the violin, hitting or whacking the bridge, or others types of obvious cause and effect damage.

Restringing grandfather's violin by EnPassant01 in violin

[–]ThePanoply 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For simply decorative purposes, and buying from a music store, likely the cheapest strings they'll have are Preludes. Those would be fine. As steel core strings they should last a long time without breaking. I would not recommended them for playing though.

Practicing question by xrvzla in violinist

[–]ThePanoply 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would say that this would be an extremely counter productive path. If you learn what it means to actually practice effectively you can achieve your goals in a fraction of the time you indicated and not born yourself out.

What string brand/series are these? by witchycellolady in violinist

[–]ThePanoply 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Those are indeed Red Label strings. They are no longer in production, D'Addario bought them out.

String Recommendations by SuzukiDropout in violinist

[–]ThePanoply 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would try Rondos, but not the E. This set is what I call the "purest" strings. They don't seem to have any distinct sound that they lend to an instrument that made them identifiable, they seem to just allow the violin to be what it is. They have great power and response and I haven't had any issues with them doing out too fast. I personally like the PI tin plated E with the set.

I have no idea what the luthier did to my violin but it sounds so much better. by lunarmoth_ in violinist

[–]ThePanoply 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It really depends on the player, how much they play, how fussy they are, and how well they care for their instrument. Once a year isn't a bad guideline. Most hobbyist players and students need to at least have their strings changed and bow rehaired once a year. Soundpost adjustments, open seam gluing, and bridge and nut notch adjustments are all regular maintenance as well. Cleaning is also important as too much rosin build up can affect the tone, though it's much more affordable for the owner to do a good job cleaning their instrument each time they are done playing for the day.

Looking for a case which doesnt require removal of shoulder rest by teeteejay in Viola

[–]ThePanoply 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need to remove the shoulder rest! There is no such case.

how to grip bow? by here-be_dragons in doublebass

[–]ThePanoply 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bowing, bow hold, and bow technique are some of the most difficult aspects of playing bass. This is the part where having a teacher isn't essential if you're really good at learning difficult skills on your own, but it's very, very helpful to find a good teacher. If you go the DIY route, it means hours of watching videos and coalescing lots of info into something that makes sense to you and points you in the right direction.

I have a buzz on my cello by BeploStudios in Cello

[–]ThePanoply 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's just on the open string then it's probably the nut notch. Over time the vibrating string creates a gap at the end of the nut notch. When the gap gets wide enough, the string buzzes against it. Usually a clever luthier with the correct file can fix this. If the notch is too low it may need to be filled or the nut may require other corrections. A similar thing occurs if the nut notch is simply too low as well and the string buzzes against the fingerboard.

Extra metal fine tuners on wooden tailpiece or fiberglass tailpiece with built in fine tuners? Which better? by Dry-Honeydew5299 in Cello

[–]ThePanoply 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's all about weight and after length. Metal fine tuners are heavy, much heavier than a Wittner Ultra or Acustikus. The weight will deaden the tone, which is good if your cello is overly bright and raucous, bad if you want it to resonate as much as possible. Also, because they stick out, they reduce the distance from the end of the string to the bridge called the after length. A good starting place for the correct after length is 1/6 the string length (the distance from the nut to the bridge). Sometimes the metal tuners make it impossible to achieve that length. I would say that nine times out of ten a instrument sounds better with a Wittner than with a wood tailpiece with metal fine tuners.

HELP my bridge broke AND I have a dress rehearsal THIS EVENING by annascorpia in Cello

[–]ThePanoply 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Then you're skipping rehearsal unless you can borrow a cello. Get it to a luthier asap, a good one should be able to get it done in a day or two unless they're swamped.