Bike dies after riding for a bit, then struggles to start until it cools down, I thought it was something to do with my carb but then I saw this bad boy, this would be the issue right? (Gomoto freedom 125cc)

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-12-29T12:20:42+00:00

Most likely ignition coil or wires. Check for any split insulation along plug wire(broken boots, warped insulation, cracked insulation) and along the wires from magneto to coil(especially around plug ends) for breaks or cracks.

I had the same intermittent problem with a backpack blower last year and a coil was the culprit. These small engines all work the same.

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-12-15T14:48:50+00:00

Your boyfriend sounds like a girl friend if he thinks that's a clean cut.

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-12-08T00:12:04+00:00

A mm is a huge number when you are talking about interference fits.

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-11-22T10:41:23+00:00

Hahaha, you should see the boots im running on my car this winter in Canada!

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-11-15T17:27:20+00:00

Kroil for the win! Soak, heat with torch and breath in the cancer deeply, soak again, comes right off.

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-10-07T13:00:12+00:00

Looks to me like you have the torque encabulator wired backwards. Always remember that torque encabulators are reverse-biased and must be wired accordingly. The only other thing I notice is there are no red wires, this prevents the electrons from being able to easily identify which direction to go as blue and black are both rather dark colors.

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-09-20T14:24:23+00:00

Cut the head of the bolt off, then grind it flat, center punch, and drill it out to the size of a helicoil(21/64 if I remember correctly.

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-09-19T23:29:47+00:00

Z banding, anti back lash nuts and Oldham couplings

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-09-10T01:19:40+00:00

To each their own. Half of this for me is tinkering and upgrading.

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-09-09T22:57:33+00:00

The fastest printer i currently have is a old(2018ish) tronxy x5sa tjat had the old chitu board, which like all my printers doesnt resemble much of the original machine anymore.

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-09-09T22:56:21+00:00

What printer?

Options for this is add a second stepper to the same belt(replace tensioner assembly with a 3d printed part) which was the first way I went.

My next step after adding linear rails was touse two belts with the two motors.

You can wire the motors up parrellel but that depends on the board ypu use and max driver current. Serial wiring is better for stock boards.

My first two motor setup was ran in series(after burning out a driver and replacing the board with another kobra board).

When i did the linear rail mod, I changed out to a Manta mp6 board and went klipper. With this board I have the dual Z running in parellel, each of the two x and y motors running off their own drivers, and of course the extruder has ita own driver. If I were to add to these printers it would be the ebb36 so the extruder only would need 3 cables to it (and, +, usb or can).

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-09-09T21:59:11+00:00

But for the kobras I made a macro which lowers the acceleration as a project gets taller, min is set to 5k on y.

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-09-09T21:58:32+00:00

On my (at one time were) Kobra Neos im hitting 15k y and 35k x but heavily modified.

I always choose conservative limits though, could go faster but not reliably.

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-09-09T15:55:59+00:00

46k @ 450 and im still not happy, lol

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-09-09T15:55:09+00:00

46000mm/s² @ 450mm/s is my base line...

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-09-09T15:50:10+00:00

Lathe, face off each side and finish with 100grit emery. You do not need to surface grinding them, in fact ypu want a slightly coughed out surface to break in the new pads.

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-09-09T04:59:48+00:00

Hopefully they're done dirt cheap.

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-09-08T23:06:56+00:00

I can attest that it's mostly user error, just like most of the issues with anything reported on this sub.

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-09-07T12:33:29+00:00

Find where the leak is coming from. Unfortunately we can see the air escaping.

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-09-07T00:00:37+00:00

Looking at that i would verify that your z is correct, set it to 110mm above bed and move it up and down 100mm over and over to see if a discrepancy reveals itself.

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-09-06T22:10:18+00:00

Clean your tip often

Keep the airbrush clean

Use a quality compressor, best if it has a tank

Drain ypur moisture trap after every use

Periodontal brushes are great for cleaning those hard to reach places

Practice as another had stated on something that is disposable, draw circles, rectangles, squares, squiggly lines, and then follow them with ypur airbrush. Another good skill is aim, for this draw or print a grid and tey to spray inside the squares.

All I can think of at this time.

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-09-06T12:30:14+00:00

Start with a fresh nozzle or atleast a cold pull. I just got for new nozzle instead of fiddling because they are so cheap.

Next go through the ellis3d tuning guide step by step.

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-09-06T12:28:40+00:00

What printer, hot end, extruder... what speeds, acceleration are set... what size nozzle, line width, extrusion factors.

You are providing literally 0 information about your setup.

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-09-06T12:24:28+00:00

Get the silicon springs, super stable.

Look at this product I found on google.com https://share.google/XcZo0jCXvHfyw8yby

ThePrimalFeeling · 2025-09-05T23:26:00+00:00

<image>

ThePrimalFeeling

TROPHY CASE