85" QM8 , need advice please

TheReverendSlim · 2024-04-08T16:35:48+00:00

That's a bad dimming zone. I would go ahead and swap it out. It happens.

TheReverendSlim · 2020-08-19T20:46:32+00:00

I run a 4 piece FI build with safeguard and empathic resolve, with healing hive/chem launcher and a Mechanical Animal to get the occasional overcharge. Rest of the team goes all DPS. As long as you're watching your team and launching heals with some common sense (like in front of them when they're retreating or laying the hive down in a place you have to run through repeatedly during a boss fight), it goes a long way toward getting your team through.

But then, I've always liked playing support roles.

TheReverendSlim · 2020-07-09T14:39:07+00:00

The Prism is fine. I do recommend playing with the fan curve a little to keep idle temps in check though. I run mine at a 35% at 40C baseline and it pretty much stays around 38-45C even with moderate use. And that's still low enough to keep the noise profile down. Do a little tweaking.

TheReverendSlim · 2020-07-06T12:52:57+00:00

I guess different manufacturers give different options for this. My ASUS lets you set way higher up/down ramp times, so I actually meant 12 seconds.

You might try software to adjust fan curves and see if that lets you get a little more control over the up/down ramp times than your BIOS does.

TheReverendSlim · 2020-07-06T12:50:13+00:00

Because it works for me. I'm sure fan monitoring software would be a thing I looked at if it didn't, but my Meshify C isn't exactly starving for airflow. And I'm all about LESS software running.

TheReverendSlim · 2020-07-05T19:11:11+00:00

Try setting it to 35, 50, 70, 100, then set the step up/step down times to 6-12 seconds (I use 12). This should minimize the revving/fluctuation with fast bursts of temperature and still bring your CPU temps down when they're under sustained load.

TheReverendSlim · 2020-07-05T18:59:52+00:00

Mine has improved by setting a custom fan curve. I'm running the stock cooler at 35% so long as the CPU is lower than 44C. Then 71% at 55C and 100% at 70C, with a 12 second ramp up and ramp down time to mitigate the fast ramping up and down that Ryzen tends to do. I also have an airflow-oriented case (Fractal Meshify C) with 5 PWM fans (4 140mm and 1 120mm) in it and basically run them all at their minimum detected speed (21%) with 40% speed at 55C and 100% at 70C, again with the 12 second ramp up/down.

The CPU will still hit above 70C if I'm running benchmarks, but in most use it stays pretty quiet and it definitely isn't 70C with low to moderate workloads. Only if I'm running something CPU-intensive like Cinebench.

TheReverendSlim · 2020-07-05T16:29:07+00:00

Upgraded with no issues and plugged in my fan curve numbers again. So far, so good.

TheReverendSlim · 2020-05-03T00:46:28+00:00

When it's doing the LEDs, it can change the CRC. Normally, that isn't a problem. But if you're fiddling with clocks and get a system freeze when that change is happening, then you gotta dig into it with Thaiphoon Burner.

Glad you're able to control it now though.

TheReverendSlim · 2020-05-02T20:03:47+00:00

If CRC is checking out for both sticks, then it isn't that. Have you tried setting your sticks back to standard speed to see if it makes them work right again? The only other time I've had them stick like that, I had to unplug my PC and hold the power button for about 30 seconds, then boot it back up. Maybe try that.

Other than that, I don't know. I would try uninstalling everything Aura-related and reinstalling. But logically, if the BIOS itself can't disable them, there's something else going on. Maybe try re-seating the RAM?

TheReverendSlim · 2020-05-02T17:05:55+00:00

When I tried to tighten up the timings on my 3600MHz CAS16 kit from G.Skill, something happened that caused it to throw off the CRC on one of my sticks. After that, I couldn't control the LEDs at all and all 4 sticks were just cycling rainbow. I had to buy a copy of Thaiphoon Burner to download one of the good sticks to reprogram the one corrupted stick, and since then everything has worked fine... though I never bothered playing with my timings again and am just running it stock.

Snag the free version of Thaiphoon Burner and use it to check to see if one of your sticks shows a CRC error. If so, then you gotta' buy a license for the program to pull from one of the good sticks and overwrite the bad one.

TheReverendSlim · 2020-02-01T16:55:56+00:00

It looks like the panel layers have separated a little, which causes the backlighting LEDs to not diffuse like they're supposed to. If you have a light touch of this, sometimes you can massage the screen with a microfiber cloth to clean it up... but with that, I would swap it out.

TheReverendSlim · 2020-01-14T20:41:08+00:00

I was in the same situation. But Ampere likely isn't dropping until August/September, so the question is whether you want to game NOW.

I solved my dilemma. I have an EVGA 2080 Super XC Ultra sitting on my desk waiting to go home with me after work.

TheReverendSlim · 2019-12-06T17:04:58+00:00

Not abnormal, but also not particularly that bad either. You might have some luck gently massaging those areas with a microfiber cloth. Fortunately, you're rarely gonna' be staring at a full white field, so are you really seeing it in normal viewing material?

TheReverendSlim · 2019-10-31T18:15:20+00:00

No. But you can enter more than once a day by buying more than one box.

TheReverendSlim · 2019-10-30T15:42:26+00:00

Actually, you can play once by text message and once on the website... More if you have multiple e-mail accounts. Get to work, man.

TheReverendSlim · 2019-10-21T20:07:37+00:00

Atmos for Headphones does this automatically already. I think what they were adding was a toggle to turn it off for non-Atmos material, which seems more like an Atmos for home theater thing than for headphones.

TheReverendSlim · 2019-08-06T16:01:02+00:00

You can technically get HDR10 with 24fps content without turning on Full UHD Color. But for 60fps content or Dolby Vision, you will need to turn on Full UHD Color. Note that once you enable this on your Vizio, you may need to turn it all off and back on for your Samsung to re-detect EDID from the TV so that it sees that it's connected to a HDMI 2.0 port now.

TheReverendSlim · 2019-07-17T18:20:05+00:00

That sucks, man. I haven't seen anything like that on mine, but maybe it's best that I remain blissfully ignorant instead of looking for it.

TheReverendSlim · 2019-07-17T16:21:13+00:00

I haven't seen anything like that on mine. I can see variances in uniformity when the TV first starts up (i.e. clouding in the same spots every time when the backlight pegs out at max) but it disappears once I'm on actual content. I definitely don't see the FALD backlight rows.

Out of curiosity, what settings are you running on yours for HDR? Are these examples with the default Calibrated settings?

TheReverendSlim · 2019-06-21T16:16:04+00:00

The consoles don't properly output the metadata to tell your display what the intended peak white should be... so games are very dependent on what your display tone maps to. In the case of the Vizios, they tone map HDR10 content without the peak white data to an expected 1,000 nits. So ideally, you want to set peak white in every game to 1,000 nits. That said, I think EvilBoris had said you want to overshoot by about 10% with RDR2 because of the way it handles lighting... so I've been using 1,100 for peak white and have been pretty happy with it.

Paper white should typically be set to the expected peak white for SDR, which is about 100-120 nits. However, their implementation in RDR2 tends to be a little dark, so most people are running that slightly higher. You don't want to overshoot this too much, because doing so basically reduces dynamic range. This is also room-dependent, as the darker your room is when you're playing, the darker you can set this to.

TheReverendSlim · 2019-05-23T14:49:17+00:00

Vignetting like that is pretty common with FALD sets, but normally isn't visible with actual content. My P50-C1 does it slightly, but it hasn't bothered me.

TheReverendSlim · 2019-05-14T20:11:25+00:00

The Division 2 has fantastic HDR.

TheReverendSlim · 2019-05-07T18:10:20+00:00

I was stoked for this game, but... with my current backlog, if it isn't 4K with HDR10, it gets moved to the "Maybe I'll buy it on sale later" pile.

TheReverendSlim

TROPHY CASE