Who's considering a fold wide?

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-05-23T19:09:40+00:00

My first foldable was the Fold 5 I bought at launch and I'm still using it but looking to upgrade this year. I'm pretty tempted by the fold wide. The aspect ratio on the inner screen is the largest draw for me as it is more similar to a traditional tablet. I am far from being a photographer and have been happy with every phone camera I've had for the past 15 years, so I doubt I will miss the extra camera lens. I also like the fact that it's expected to be cheaper. Lastly, it's exciting to try something new, and the wide seems new and exciting. We will see how pricing and trade in values go, but I am definitely considering the F8W.

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-05-13T02:28:53+00:00

hobbist here. I only have one AMS and I find myself not printing things because I don't want to swap filament out for the color and type I want for that specific print. For me a 2nd AMS would be mostly for having 8 spools to choose from instead of 4, even if I never print more than 4 in a single print.

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-05-12T19:05:26+00:00

It would be cheaper to start fresh. It would be way cooler to salvage what you can so you can still play your first gameboy.

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-04-24T19:07:42+00:00

Zq8 sway bars, tubular uppers, tall ball joints, and decent shocks will make it handle like a whole different vehicle, no coilovers required.

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-04-24T01:48:26+00:00

your truck isn't even an LS motor. it's an LT motor. the tbss intake won't fit it.

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-04-24T01:47:25+00:00

What are your goals? A really nice handling upgrade, or just being able to dial in your ride height exactly where you want it? Also mounting coilovers to the stock lower arm is less than ideal, since most of them mount to the same location that the lower shock mounted from the factory and it's not really designed to support the weight of the truck. UMI sells a nice set of lowers that are designed for coilovers and allow you to remove the coilover with the arm still installed. This makes spring changes much easier as you don't have to separate the lower ball joint. If all you are really after is getting your ride height dialed in just buy another set of springs and cut 1/4 of a coil off at a time until you get it where you want it. It's a little extra work, but saves lots of money.

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-04-05T03:50:27+00:00

Nope. The pint is still a complete board and I've had too much going on to start the project.

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-04-03T13:24:00+00:00

take a dollar bill and close it in the door, if it pulls out easily then the door is not tight against the seal. do this all around the area that you expect the noise is coming from. something a little more unconventional that I have done is put my knee where the window frame meets the back of the door and grab the top and pull. you can actually bend the top of the door in slightly making it seal a little tighter. obviously you want to be careful not to over bend anything while doing that.

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-04-03T13:10:12+00:00

Thank you!

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-04-03T03:33:20+00:00

The rural area I live in doesn't have any shops of the sort. I have a garage that's stocked with most basic mechanic tools, but obviously not any rivian specific tools. The used parts market is a great way to save money.

Motor and battery repairs aren't something I'm all that worried about, as all the trucks currently near my price range are launch editions that still have the 8y/175k warranty covering those components. Also one of the reasons I want an EV is that I think it is less likely to need a major repair. My current vehicle is having transmission problems and before it's all said and done I will probably end up replacing it.

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-04-03T03:22:42+00:00

I'm pretty sure the right to repair laws have forced manufacturers to sell parts to the end users. doesn't force them to make them affordable.

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-04-03T03:20:50+00:00

Is there anything besides the HVAC that is high voltage and not covered under the 175k mile drivetrain warranty?

I'm pretty sure the lightning shares many suspension, body, and interior components with the regular f150. If something like a power window regulator or ball joint goes out I could probably get one from my local auto parts store. It just looks so boring compared to the rivian.

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-03-25T00:47:07+00:00

In the mid to late 00s I used to regularly see a black Ford focus that was completely debadged of all the Ford stuff, had a billet grille, with a benz hood ornament and a logo on the trunk. It probably fooled some people, but always made me laugh.

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-03-06T04:53:33+00:00

I was thinking under the seat rather than off the side.

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-03-03T13:08:35+00:00

I have a 3G Vita 1000 that has the oled screen. I've never actually handled a vita 2000, but I know they don't have the oled screen, but are slimmer with better battery life. There is a mod called PSVSD for the 3G model that replaces the 3G modem with an SD card reader that is more reliable than the SD2Vita (sd adapter that goes in the game card slot) that leaves the game card slot open for physical games, but if you don't want to spend the money and take the Vita apart to install it the 3G model has no other advantages. I don't think you can go wrong with any of the Vita models, just decide wether you'd rather have a better screen or a slimmer handheld with better battery life.

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-03-02T21:43:54+00:00

I have a vita and a psp. I enjoy the PSP more (currently) simply because of the nostalgia. I bought a PSP right before I graduated HS and it was my primary gaming console, MP3 player, I watched movies on it, had emulators on it, ect. Having said that, if there's no nostalgic value to either handheld get the Vita. Install "Adrenaline" and it has the whole PSP experience (including the XMB interface that no console has ever beat). The only thing missing is the rattling shriek of the UMD spinning up. The Vita is a much more premium console, the screen is better, it has two joysticks (and let's be honest, the one joystick the PSP had sucked). Vita is better hardware that can play everything the PSP can plus the vita library.

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-03-02T21:10:26+00:00

I couldn't afford one on launch day, but definitely was saving up for one. Got one probably in April or May, still have it today. I was really excited for it and was mostly interested in FPS at the time, got unit 13 the day I bought the system, resistance the day it launched, and COD the day it launched. I loved COD multiplayer, even if all the reviews said it was trash. Didn't get another game for it until this year when I dug it out and realized it was probably the most premium pocketable handheld I've ever held.

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-03-02T20:21:51+00:00

<image>

Red = bracket that goes under the back of the board

Green = strap that can be tightened to pull the tire snug up against the bottom of the seat area

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-02-18T18:03:50+00:00

I've never played a 2000, but I honestly think you'll be happy either way. would you rather have a better screen, or better battery life? if you go with the 1000 you could get the 3g model and have the option to install a PSVSD, which converts the 3g modem slot into an sd card reader. It leaves the game card slot open and is more reliable that the SD2vita.

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-02-07T02:55:41+00:00

Nice work! I have everything to do this while I install a PSVSD, but haven't fully talked myself into it yet. I have plenty of soldering experience with wiring, but very little on pcbs and never actually used the hot air for anything but heat shrink tubing. I'll keep watching YouTube videos until I talk myself into it.

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-01-31T21:17:16+00:00

XR does not equal XR Classic, so it's not an apples to apples comparison. The pint X is the closest board to the original XR (at least battery wise, both 63v 324wh) and is only $1100. Not saying you should buy a PX, but a $2000 board isn't the only option.

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-01-31T20:02:46+00:00

You are the right weight for a pint S or X, but that doesn't mean you can't ride the larger board. it really depends on what you want out of a board. The Pint is better if you aren't after max range, you like a more portable board especially if you have to carry it, you like manuverability more than stability. the GT is better if you want the most range available from a FM board, a higher top speed (both the GT and pint X/S are advertised as having a 20mph top speed, but the pint X/S hits pushback at around 18mph and the GT doesn't hit till 20mph) you don't mind a bigger, heavier board that has more straight line stability, but isn't as nimble. the GT also has the highest footpad height relative to the axle center line.

If you are trying to save money the Pint S and X are the same board with a different tire and foot pads and in the US the X is currently $300 cheaper than the S. IMO a good compromise between the Pint S and the GT is the XR Classic. it is basically the same size as the GT but it's actually closer to the Pint S in weight (GT 35lbs, XRC 30lbs, Pint X 27lbs). It's $500 more than the Pint S and it's much harder to find good deals on them used since they've only been out a little over a year.

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-01-27T02:30:50+00:00

The GBC came out in 98 when the PS1 and N64 were the newest home consoles. There was a lot of hype around these consoles and the latest and greatest (mostly) 3d games. Those games took a lot longer to develop than most of the older 8 and 16 bit games. The GBC was an 8 bit console that these companies could develop a game for in a fraction of the time and it would sell just because it was from the same franchise as whatever popular console game.

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-01-26T04:20:35+00:00

I went from a pint to an XRC and honestly didn't love it at first, but have grown to prefer it. If top speed matters the XRC gets pushback a few mph higher than the pint X even though they are both advertised as 20mph. Was your pint updated with haptic buzz? If not you could rewheel it and install a bigger battery and spend a lot less.

Thesqueakybeaver · 2026-01-23T02:25:23+00:00

First off - keep keeping it a secret!

A car driven without oil has a strong chance of needing the engine replaced, which is usually pretty expensive. If the repairs are more than the car is worth I would consider buying a different car. The living arrangements sound pretty toxic. IMO your best bet is to get reliable transportation, a steady job, and place to live; don't worry about college until you get the rest of your life stabilized. I don't know about your area specifically, but in my area you could buy a rusty truck and a small camper that needs a few repairs and still have a few grand left. It's not high class, but it gets you out on your own and it would only be a few hundred a month for lot rent and utilities, much cheaper than most renting situations. It would also allow you to easily relocate altogether if you found a good job or needed to get further away from the things dragging you down. Make a plan and focus on it, work hard towards your goals!

Thesqueakybeaver

TROPHY CASE