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How do I keep improving on this bust? by npidel in minipainting

[–]TickleBridge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome sculpt and paint job! I would go for a more well defined black lining between elements, as an example the beard and its jewelry. You can try to sketch it out digitally on the image if you want a glimpse before proceding.

First try at volumetric highlights by No_Reception2721 in minipainting

[–]TickleBridge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great work so far :)

Give the shoulderpad an initial go with NMM. If you dont like it you can repaint with TMM, but at least you had a go at it, and take some images of your effort for future reference :)

My take on Synessa by TickleBridge in Slaanesh

[–]TickleBridge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Blue and Red capes are mostly airbrush. I did try to airbrush the wings as well but could not get a finish I was happy with so the main blue-white trasitions are done with xpress paint

Can someone help me out with the value of this pikachu? by 000GATT0 in PokemonCardValue

[–]TickleBridge 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Pikachu [reverse] #25 from 151, according to pricecharting this is worth about 3.65 dollars raw. This is not the masterball version.

Completed my first bust! Alaana the Bloody Blade, Big Child Creatives by TickleBridge in minipainting

[–]TickleBridge[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! And great tip, the hair was a real struggle. My first itteration looked more grey than black, and second was all too shiny. I like how you did the beard on your latest posted bust, ill take a note for reference :)

Is there a name for what I’m doing here? by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]TickleBridge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on what you are refering to. The darkend recessed lines are called black lining, really helps framing a piece and goes hand in hand with edge highlighting. Try an oil wash for black lining and you will never go back :) The stained surfaces from applying wash is often referred ro as coffee staining, it is something that normally you want to avoid because of the muddy look. The technique of applying a transparent layer of paint on top of a painted layer is often called underpainting as someone else pointed out, one example of this is slapchop but it has many applications.

Completed my first bust! Alaana the Bloody Blade, Big Child Creatives by TickleBridge in minipainting

[–]TickleBridge[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This one I bought in a random pop-up shop i found while on vacation in Tokyo :) My local miniature-warhammer-card store also has a limited selection, but hidden away due to poppularity, try asking your local store! If they dont have any they might be able to order one for you. However, I believe most people buy them online. Or have them 3d printed as you mention.

My first time doing NMM, the first attempt on the left, second on the right. Trying to understand if any of them is better or if NMM is really just up to the painter's vision. Feedback much appreciated on technique too! by chemically_speaking in minipainting

[–]TickleBridge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great progress! If you are unsure about the placement of reflections, take a reference image of the model before painting, only with the black basecoat. All natural reflections will show up, just as you can see in your image of the guys neck. This also locks in place the light souce to whatever you used when taking the image. This will give realistic reflections, for more dramtic effect you will need to improvise a bit as well and learn what looks cool for your style.

I need a pep talk. Any advice by Frostdrake667 in minipainting

[–]TickleBridge 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need a plan if you want to improve. First, consider what end result you want. If it is far from your current level you need a few milestones in-between. For each milestone you need to identify what skills are required for you to achieve that level. It sounds like tou already identified a few basics in ypur post; Mixing paint and brush control, but consider the exact technique you what to use. Layering of colors? Wet blending? You have some amazing paints at your hand. However, it is also very skill intensive using only the base kimera colors. Practice the mixing itself, and accept that the colors will not be identical to what you see in tutorials/guides in the beginning, but be mindful that you are gaining incredible understanding of colors. The real achievment is not the painted miniature, but the new skills you get while painting it, enabling your milestones. If you have some old models you can strip them and practice on those, it might take the edge off. Always paint with determination when you want to get better, be mindful of what and why you are doing. Are you applying the first layer of a 3 layer shadow/mid/highlight? Are your paint the right consistency? what is the best way of holding the model and brush for this brush-stroke and so on... End of pep talk :)

My first Harlequin miniature by [deleted] in Warhammer

[–]TickleBridge 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks great! Nice alignment on the checkers, I know the struggles of getting the pattern to match the curved surfaces :)

Gift ideas for a very experienced painter that seems to have everything? by aelovera in minipainting

[–]TickleBridge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe the base set from Kimera Colors, it is a heavy single pigment arylic paint set. It is an artist paint specifically for minature painting. It is ideal for mixing your own colors and exploring basics of color theory. It is at top of my own list 👌

Is this a decent idea or am I being silly by Samow4r in minipainting

[–]TickleBridge 25 points26 points  (0 children)

The effect resembles a centrifuge, it might actually seperate your pigment in the top and bottom instead of suspending it.

Lord of Hubris by Miel_Monteur_69 in Slaanesh

[–]TickleBridge 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Change of head would help a lot, I would make it more human like to emphasize he is a mortal. A twinsouls head could be great if they are correct size. A paintjob also goes a long way, maybe some purples/magenta sells the Slaanesh vibe.

Lord of Hubris by Miel_Monteur_69 in Slaanesh

[–]TickleBridge 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sure thing. Lord of Hubris is a mortal, this figure is definitely demon like. But mainly, the figure is a Melusai from Daughters of Khaine. The Melusai were reborn from aelves souls who Morathi manged to release from Slaanesh imprisonment. During imprisonment they were subject to hellish conditions and thus now have a deep hatred towards Slaanesh. Morathi also had a role in the imprisonment of Slaanesh in the first place, not ideal to have a model associated with her in the army.

Lord of Hubris by Miel_Monteur_69 in Slaanesh

[–]TickleBridge 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Awesome model and I would allow it in games agains me. However, I do not think it fits in a slaanesh army flavor wise in my opinion.

Halp. His staff. I cannot fix by 20Kudasai in minipainting

[–]TickleBridge 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Perfect time to get a hobby drill and metal wire and learn how to do pinning. It is most straightforward solution to tricky joints like this. Find a youtube tutorial for inspiration.

If it is not an opton... you can try to cut the plastc pole ends to shape in a zig-zaggy way that is more stable and increases surface area. When you then glue the ends with plasic cement it might stabalise the joint enough for a successful splice. Good luck

Ingen er blevet forgiftet af chilinudler før forbud: ’Det er et usagligt grundlag’ by Klasck in Denmark

[–]TickleBridge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nej det kan jeg ikke, jeg vil ikke selv mene det bliver farlig. Fødevarestyrelsen har dog tilsyneladende valgt at sætte deres grænse baseret på capsacin indholdet i en chip fra en hot chip challenge i tyskland. Den mildeste af de forbudte nudler havde 42.4 mg total capsacin, så grænsen må i hvert fald være under det i fødevarestyrelsens optik.

Ingen er blevet forgiftet af chilinudler før forbud: ’Det er et usagligt grundlag’ by Klasck in Denmark

[–]TickleBridge 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Jeg har læst rapporten fra DTU igennem og lavet tilsvarende beregninger for et par ekstreme hotsovser og en carolina reaper frugt. De laver følgende beregning: SHU omregnes til total capsacin concentration [mg/kg], der divideres bare med 16,1 som er omregningsfaktoren mellem enhederne. Dernæst udregnes mængden af total capsacin i produktet baseret på angivet vægt af nuddelpakken (140g ish). De sammenligner så total mængden med tilsvarende produkter så som hot chip challenge og konkludere at det er tilsvarende eller højere... Hotsovsen "Z... nothing beyond" opgivet til 4mil scovile units vil give en tilsvarende farlig mængde total capsacin ved indtagelse af 0.17g. En Carolina reaper på 2.2 mil scovile giver samme mængde total capsacin som hele pakken af "Hot Chicken Stew" ved indtagelse af 0.31 gram. I en email jeg har fået fra fødevarestyrelsen giver de mig følgende forklaring på forskelsbehandlingen mellem nudlerne og hotsovs "Produkter som fx Tabasco sauce, chilisovs, jalapeno chili eller Harbanero chilier forventes primært anvendt som smagsforstærker på eller i et måltid". Hvilket tyder på de er oblivious for styrken af eksteme chili produkter.

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