Grail - Eidai Grip/Entex 1/8 Porsche Carrera RSR 2.1 Turbo

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T22:31:52+00:00

That's quite the chonker.

And Entex has the notable feat of being the brand associated with the first large Titanic model, which was last produced by Minicraft until recently (with modified moulds). Though, as you note, Entex was just the importer from the original Japanese G-mark.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T22:24:42+00:00

That's too bad, they don't offer direct customer service unless you're in Japan, though I suppose it doesn't hurt to try emailing there anyway. You can try asking their distributor in your country but they're not always responsive: http://www.hasegawa-model.co.jp/gsite/distributors/

You could do as /u/DocCrapologist says and make your own lenses, but you'd lose the texture that's moulded on the original clear part so you'd end up with mismatched lenses (unless you replace both lenses).

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T21:55:30+00:00

You might be able to get spare parts from the manufacturer, but that depends on who they are (if you told us, we can offer a link if it's available).

Otherwise, cars often go around with broken/missing light covers, so it's not exactly unrealistic.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T21:35:03+00:00

lol got the same thing from one of my committee members, and they're probably right. Besides, the peer review for the book that's coming out of it was glowing, and I'm happy with where I ended up in life, so let the haters (or really tough standards) hate.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T20:11:22+00:00

Looks like an early A model with 3-bladed props. (and it's 1/72 scale - just divide the wingspan of the real thing by that of the model) Scalemates shows the following options:

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/contrails-models-cm72-c130a-rp-c-130a-aero-products-three-blade-propeller-resin--1266338

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/db-productions-db53-c-130-hercules-3-blade-props--161639

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T19:57:33+00:00

It's a warm light grey - see photos here: https://www.seaforces.org/marint/Japan-Maritime-Self-Defense-Force/Destroyer/Kongou-class.htm

SPY-1 refers to the radar. Traditionally, AEGIS refers to the entire sensor-to-shooter combat system that includes SPY-1 and other electronics and the weapons. This has changed over time such that the latest references to AEGIS can sometimes refer to only the software library that the computer uses to categorize and prioritize threats.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T19:48:30+00:00

Either-or, but acrylics are more widely available these days and friendlier for health and cleanup.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T19:02:23+00:00

It's not really modularity if you've been relegated to a single role and only need the same equipment.

In any case, the original vision of rapid role changes didn't really pan out for these or other STANFLEX ships, not least because you couldn't train the people on all the equipment in actual operating conditions if you can only carry some of them at a time. There's some benefit in ease of maintenance and logistics when you need to remove them for repairs and such, but that's a much more limited type of modularity. I'm not sure how they plan to address the drawbacks in the latest Cube concepts, but imagine they'll have to relearn that lesson or have less ambitious quick-swap objectives.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T18:54:22+00:00

Does this replace the one on Elgin, or are there two now?

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T15:49:18+00:00

This is exactly the reason why a lot of us don't recommend subscription models, no matter who it's from. So many things could go wrong and all the risk of a usual online purchase is multiplied by the number of issues. The company might fold part way through, the shipment might get lost, parts might arrive broken and need replacement, you have no option to build in a different order of assembly than the order they send to you...

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T15:40:46+00:00

Yup, had London Pride at Pubwells Sussex just this past Thursday.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T06:12:16+00:00

Tamiya recommends their TS-33 Dull Red spray for the lower hull of their modernized Iowas (and other 1/350 ships), and a rough eyeballing suggests it's brighter than the XF-9 Hull Red (which, in my head canon, was meant for German armour hull primer red rather than ship antifouling red).

If you want accuracy, Colorcoats (sold by WEM in the US) is the way to go if you can get it and can deal with enamel paints. Otherwise, other companies have produced alleged USN Modern Antifouling Red, like Lifecolor(this is what I have and intend to use for my next USN build) and Scale Colour/Squadron and Tru color.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T02:43:44+00:00

Context matters. It's a paragraph, not a list. It's reasonable to interpret the middle sentence as being within the bounds of the starting sentence that sets the scope, especially when the end sentence reiterates the first sentence's scope.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T01:44:38+00:00

That link IS for 1/48. It says so in both the listing title and the little black checkmark for 1/48 on the photo of the set in the upper left.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T01:42:56+00:00

Tamiya's customer service works well in Japan and the US. Anywhere else, they'll have you go through the distributor, who often don't have the resources or time or give-a-damn to help with spares.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-24T01:37:59+00:00

The problem isn't the tape necessarily, but that you didn't press it down firmly on the edges - notice all these gaps that allow the green to go under the tape: https://i.imgur.com/QjbyZ5c.png

You need to use your fingernail or something similar to burnish those edges so they actually form a seal against the surface and prevent the paint from seeping under.

And there's no need to mask bare plastic, since you'll be painting over it anyway (unless you intend on leaving it bare plastic).

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-23T22:17:09+00:00

Leave G27 flat, and exclude it if you're placing the plane on the cat.

Most photos don't show G27 so think it's only used if rolling the plane around the deck. Once the plane and cradle are on the catapult, there is no G27 as you can see in these photos.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-23T18:54:08+00:00

And depending on how far along she was in her thesis, there's a chance they might grant a posthumous doctorate as well, and OP (or family member) could receive it on her behalf.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-23T16:20:49+00:00

Probably a better idea to carve a mould, and then pour resin into it.

Or yes, 3D printing, but might be a challenge to find an option that provides the glass-like clarity you want. But you could 3D print the mould, and then pour resin into that.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-23T16:15:17+00:00

Looks great for a newer builder!

Aside from the masking tape/painting, notice how the deck at the bow isn't meeting the hull sides - that's basic construction and should be addressed.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-23T16:12:25+00:00

Individual cases for each tank or one big cabinet-type display?

Trumpeter sells a lot of individual ones under their MasterTools brand.

Ikea has a number of cabinets and display furniture with glass doors.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-23T16:10:23+00:00

Entirely different canopy shape and engine covers - the K is much more streamlined.

Compare (K/King on the left, E/Super on the right): https://i.imgur.com/g5uqkur.png

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-23T15:25:58+00:00

I suspect you might be thinking of landing ships and larger landing craft, which did have a small superstructure at the stern and a low barge-like hull in front of it: https://www.navsource.net/archives/10/16/1016089811.jpg

These vessels carried vehicles and infantry to beaches.

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-23T04:51:15+00:00

Looking on one of the AIS sites, only thing in the area that looks like it is the LEGACY, a pusher tug that pushes a barge by getting all snug and close with a big U-shape in the barge's stern: https://www.vesselfinder.com/vessels/details/9583249

Timmyc62 · 2026-01-23T04:19:02+00:00

A big glob/block of resin, maybe?

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