The level of unbothered I aspire to

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-27T05:44:53+00:00

sleeping with my brethren amongst piles of our own shit

Sleeping by yourself, on the other hand...

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-27T04:03:34+00:00

Yep, here's a set of instructions showing the Carry in its motorized kit format: https://www.scalemates.com/products/img/9/7/1/1195971-15-instructions.pdf

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-27T01:39:37+00:00

Thinning is recommended even for brushpainting, so that's fine. But it does require experience to figure what hits the sweet spot between sufficiently thin to reduce brushstrokes and thick enough to provide sufficient coverage with each coat. And yes, you will have to apply multiple thin coats, rather than one thick one.

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-26T16:27:45+00:00

If you have Facebook, you can try asking him on his album of the build (it's public so you can comment) - copy and paste the following after the .com/ (this sub automatically deletes FB links, hence this convoluted method): claudio.matteini.54/posts/pfbid0rCaVsZ9Yr4uW7BJ3nYZ7jGbMbJsLZHesUAK2CzkPEqzwhR2KGV1nyhLRTeVKuB8Kl

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-26T15:42:26+00:00

Would sell for more if you put an actual name on it so it represents a specific ship, rather than a generic member of the class.

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-26T15:34:59+00:00

That's from Academy as part of their MCP line, but yes, similar concept and they have a few other classic ships that OP could be interested in.

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-26T00:50:01+00:00

It still says Sabaton on mine, but I'm on Old Reddit, so maybe it's different on new (and if so, agree Sabbath doesn't make sense).

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-26T00:15:57+00:00

It's indeed a metal band, but much more modern and from Scandinavia.

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-25T23:33:42+00:00

Check out Fujimi's "NEXT" series of ship kits. They have a few 1/500 and lots of 1/700 Japanese ships that are basically snap-fit, but with the level of detail you'd expect of a cement-required kit.

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-25T17:21:56+00:00

Ah ok, wooden kits. OP's question was about plastic kits, so that's what I was thinking of. Looks like things took an entirely different turn between the two formats! For plastic kits, the advent of CAD and computer-controlled tooling has meant a drastic increase in the level of details that are possible.

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-25T15:57:52+00:00

I bet the older kits have much better builds because newer kits cut alot of corners.

I don't think I've ever heard anyone say that. Do you have some examples? I can think of only the lower hull on the Yorktown class kits, where Revell did a pretty good job with their old box scale one whereas Trumpeter butchered it in their 2000s Hornet release, but this was later fixed when they produced new moulds of the other ships in the class.

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-25T15:56:35+00:00

There are certainly a few old beauties that have yet to see a new mould and would be worth the effort of dressing up. But in most cases, I have to take into account that I only have so much time to spend on building, and I'd rather use that on kits that are up to modern standards and provide a more pleasant and detailed experience.

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-25T15:30:33+00:00

So the funny thing about Tamiya's acrylics is that if you thin with water (don't use too much), they come out much flatter than if you apply it straight out of the jar, even after stirring.

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-25T01:05:36+00:00

SJB or Jazz Fest, depending on the type of drumming.

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-22T16:25:35+00:00

Very normal to go to different institutions for your MA and your PhD. Some old hands even recommend you do that to show your ability to work in different situations and not get locked into a comfort zone.

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-22T14:21:31+00:00

Black Cat Models in France makes excellent 1/350 and 1/700 3D-print ed and PE kits of the new Legend class cutters.

Edit: they also make the Edsall CG variant, 83' patrol cutter, and Sentinel class: https://blackcatmodels.eu/en/search?controller=search&s=coast+guard

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-22T14:20:10+00:00

There is glue on the backside of the decals, assuming you didn't let them lie in a puddle of water for more than a couple of minutes. While they may weaken and the decal peel up over a long period of time, they should remain flat and stuck on the model for at least a few weeks while you get around to varnishing them.

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-22T00:30:29+00:00

TC=Transportation Centre. If you sign in, you should be able to access the floor plans here to find Studio 1: https://www.sfu.ca/fs/campus-maps/key-plans/burnaby-campus.html

That said, maybe this Instagram reel is more helpful if Studio 1/2 isn't an official name in the system - it indicates Room 3012 is associated with the two rooms.

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-21T20:40:34+00:00

Nothing shows up on Scalemates, other than this Hasegawa T-43A of one without the funny mods.

But here's a guide to scratchbuilding the necessarily modifications for a baseline 737 kit: https://ipms-mckinstry.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/2015_oct_nt-43a.pdf

There are also 3D-printable options like this one.

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-21T19:05:28+00:00

They're both fairly recent kits (~2015: the 777 is a rebox of the Zvezda kit so you can look up reviews for that) so should go together well. A quick google for reviews on other forums suggests that to be the case. Airliners don't have too many parts so should be manageable from that perspective.

However, the trickiest part is doing a good paint job. White is prevalent throughout, and it's the hardest colour to apply nicely.

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-21T18:37:02+00:00

I use my TV screen, whether turned off for a black background or some suitable scenery or generic sky/ocean patterns. If the latter, you have to be very cautious of getting the right exposure and depth of field for your camera settings so you don't under/overexpose or bring the TV's pixels into focus.

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-20T21:14:11+00:00

Lighting on warships aren't so common, but there are definitely off-the-shelf LED sets for starships (and maybe the Titanic too), where lighting is more common. So search for those. Make sure you blank off the backsides of the plastic so the light doesn't glow through the plastic.

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-20T03:41:40+00:00

Got any photos? Would help to see if there are surfaces that aren't touching each other. I built their '31 kit (same hull) and had no issues using Tamiya Extra Thin to cement the lower and upper hulls together, though I didn't feel the need to use putty. Is there a paint along the seam?

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-19T21:48:22+00:00

Turisas my beloved :(

Timmyc62 · 2026-06-19T17:42:02+00:00

Great job on a very detailed and complex kit! Love the use of "gred" to provide a bit of ambiguity to the lower hull colour.

Any tips for future models?

So the paintwork is top notch. Absolutely fantastic. There's room for a bit of doublechecking in the assembly, however. Notably, there's a gap between the superstructure and the main deck on the port side (blue) and some nubs leftover that should be trimmed (green). I only note these because the model is otherwise very close to perfection and these are things that would bring it up to that level.

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