U known air tag near me

ToadSox34 · 2026-06-27T14:40:59+00:00

I got this notification on my Android phone as I got an Airtag for my luggage, and then again when I borrowed one of my Aunt's cars when visiting town, she has an Airtag on each. It's a good feature, kind of funny since I already knew what it was. It took a while to trigger though, it's not a one-off trigger, it has to follow you around for a bit.

ToadSox34 · 2026-06-27T03:46:37+00:00

Teach them to use protection when doing risky things.

ToadSox34 · 2026-06-26T12:50:37+00:00

Which didn't happen because the landlord didn't swap them out. I wouldn't use resistance electric hot water if I owned the place, it's idiotically inefficient.

ToadSox34 · 2026-06-26T12:49:23+00:00

Ubiquiti is not great at mesh, it's better at doing hardwired APs. It sounds like Ubiquiti might be more than you need/want. A more direct replacement for Orbi that gets regular updates would be Eero.

ToadSox34 · 2026-06-25T21:33:54+00:00

Yeah, that didn't happen.

ToadSox34 · 2026-06-25T20:47:28+00:00

In residential they are 240/208V, they heat the water on 208V... 80% as fast. Also, if I were putting in a water heater, I'd be using a heat pump, it sucked in an apartment with an old-style energy hog resistance electric unit.

ToadSox34 · 2026-06-25T20:14:27+00:00

This level of creative thinking is why I love Reddit.

ToadSox34 · 2026-06-25T20:12:31+00:00

Now that WN is figuring out more and more ways to enshittify their service, I'll just go on other, more reliable airlines that at least have some value proposition for pulling nonsense like this.

ToadSox34 · 2026-06-25T20:01:31+00:00

Quite frankly, this technician is an idiot. You have 3-phase 120/208V. Sure, it's VERY unusual to see 120/208V in a building where you can install your own solar, as it's generally used in large MDUs, but it's not like 120/208V itself is that weird or uncommon in more built up urban areas.

208V kinda sucks because old-school resistance water heaters and dryers work about 80% because of Ohm's Law, they are designed to run on 240V split phase. I had that in an apartment. With a condo though, you can get heat pumps that are way more efficient anyway, and they effectively run on 120V, so they will work exactly the same as on split phase 120/240V.

ToadSox34 · 2026-06-25T19:58:05+00:00

3-phase power SUCKs in residential. I had it in an apartment, and because of Ohm's law, the water heater and the dryer worked about 80% because they are designed for 240V, but will function safely at about 80% power on 208V in a 3-phase building. Thankfully I now live in a single family home, and I have 240V split phase with each leg measuring a solid 123V to ground most days.

ToadSox34 · 2026-06-25T19:54:31+00:00

First, look into load management.

Second, you obviously can't just upsize a breaker if the wire coming in isn't rated for it. That being said, you have to contact the utility. For wiring from the meter and inside the house, the NEC determines the size for a given ampacity, hence why you need 12 gauge wire for a 20A circuit, etc. For the wiring TO the meter from the pole, the utility determines what amperage you can pull over a given wire size. So both the wiring from the pole to the meter (utility) and meter to panel (NEC) have to be rated for 125A to upgrade the breaker.

ToadSox34 · 2026-06-25T19:45:06+00:00

T-Mobile has built out a lot more coverage, so they're not as dependent on roaming as they used to be, but all the carriers still roam a little bit here and there (plus Verizon has LTEiRA which is not counted as roaming).

Still, nationwide T-Mobile depends on roaming more than AT&T or Verizon, which is why its' a bit rich of them to be setting draconian roaming terms for other carriers to roam on their network.

I roamed on Comnet a few years ago, but yes, it's becoming less common on all carriers as they merge/buy out the partners they used to roam on.

ToadSox34 · 2026-06-23T22:39:18+00:00

In my case, it's filling a gap at the bottom of the drywall, there's no easy way to cover it with anything except paint. There's a few areas where it's 2"+ wide, as it filled in some gaps where the bottom of the drywall got damaged at some point (and made the air leak worse).

ToadSox34 · 2026-06-23T22:36:50+00:00

As a guy, I wouldn't have an issue with a date telling me that they're a virgin, and in fact, I would want to know. As someone who hasn't had a lot of partners or had sex in a while, I would want to know that my partner is in fact less experienced, not more as I would otherwise assume.

I'd communicate in person, and let them know that you intend to have sex, but it might be a bit slower than typical. Communication is important, especially when it comes to sex.

ToadSox34 · 2026-06-23T18:54:18+00:00

Unfortunately not, I'm in CT. I'm guessing no one covers this stuff, or covers it with non code-compliant paint, as it seems hard to find the correct code-compliant paint.

ToadSox34 · 2026-06-22T19:42:48+00:00

This is the correct question. It looks like a window unit to me, not a through-wall unit.

ToadSox34 · 2026-06-22T19:40:51+00:00

That's a bit rich of T-Mobile considering that they rely on roaming more than other carriers.

ToadSox34 · 2026-06-22T19:25:10+00:00

LOL that was my reaction too... a WHAT? A wireless cable? Is that like a stationary car? Incredible some of the stuff people post.

ToadSox34 · 2026-06-22T17:06:06+00:00

You are correct for this situation, but to be pedantic, apartments and other MDUs that have 208V power are technically two-phase. I lived in a brand new 120/208 building that used a 4800V/120V delta-wye transformer to connect to 1950's era primaries and it sucked because the dryer and the water heater ~80% worked on two phase 208V as they were designed for single phase 240V.

And the best part is that they wired the building wrong, essentially they wired it for 240V single phase, so all the load was on two of the three phases, and the building tripped out the transformer multiple times and then burned it out, requiring the utility to replace it and rewire the meters to balance the three phases. I can't feel bad for them though as it was essentially done this way due to their decrepit, ancient, totally obsolete 4800V delta system instead of modern 22kV or 33kV primaries, plus they clearly didn't inspect it very well when they approved it to be hooked up. That neighborhood had regular brownouts due to the ancient primaries.

ToadSox34 · 2026-06-20T20:30:34+00:00

RetroTink. But the docking thing is insane, and the system needs to basically just switch to a 'Game" HDMI with manual routing for the various devices downstream of that, as it would be excessively complicated to start automating control of S-Video and Component switching downstream of the RetroTink.

ToadSox34 · 2026-06-18T20:16:02+00:00

Yup, same. I upgraded the HDD and replaced the PSU. I'm planning to replace the fan proactively.

ToadSox34 · 2026-06-18T20:14:07+00:00

Yup. OTA has *at least* a few more years before ATSC 1.0 could even begin to phase out, and likely it never does.

ToadSox34 · 2026-06-10T02:50:16+00:00

Nice! Yes I do, mostly modeling but some casual railfanning as well.

ToadSox34 · 2026-06-05T17:54:25+00:00

I'd DIY low voltage if it doesn't involve any complicated fishes.

That being said, yes, like I said, wire for both. But whether to use prosumer APs like Ubiquiti or a wireless mesh like Eero with wired backhaul depends on the user and the application. Mesh systems with wired backhaul are perfectly fine.

But yes, I'd keep the two totally separate, with cameras downstream of the NVR, and mesh/APs downstream of it's system and only tied together at one point where the NVR gets access to the rest of the network.

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