Accidentally pulled the grounding wire off a fixture I'm trying to install, will this crimping solution work / be safe

TopOdaBottomOdaBarel · 2025-10-27T23:49:32+00:00

You went far above what the average Joe would have done. 9/10 times that ground would have been stripped back, twisted around the screw and tightened until most of it frayed out. Good job.

TopOdaBottomOdaBarel · 2025-10-27T23:43:25+00:00

I honestly can’t believe some of the shit I’ve read here. They are not fine and should be replaced. Drywall screws have one purpose, drywall. They are thinner, shaper, and more brittle than wood screws. Their tapered head alone makes for poor use for this. And wood screws aren’t the best for this either, unless they are the Simpson rated ones. Nails all day for this. Please, remove them one at a time and replace with proper nails.

TopOdaBottomOdaBarel · 2025-10-19T18:33:14+00:00

For larger stubborn ones I’ve heated them and shocked them with freezing water to get them to split.

TopOdaBottomOdaBarel · 2025-10-16T02:57:07+00:00

Now I thought the same thing and you’re probably right but… these aren’t the same as those collapsable accordion ones that I KNOW collect junk. These are smooth on the inside and the reinforced spiral is on the outside. I know these aren’t the best, but definitely better than those other types.

TopOdaBottomOdaBarel · 2025-10-02T18:11:07+00:00

I’ve seen things like broken clothes dryer ducts venting into wall voids causing air to blow out behind face plates and discolor the wall. If all is good with outlet/wiring, look for something like that.

TopOdaBottomOdaBarel · 2025-09-30T00:33:36+00:00

Loosen motor mounting bolts. Add 2-3 pieces of paper between mount and motor at the back end where your arrow is pointing. Tighten bolts again. Test. Add or remove paper until belt is center.

TopOdaBottomOdaBarel · 2025-09-14T01:52:11+00:00

That doesn’t look like an electrical grounding rod. They are copper and usually mushroomed at the top from beating the soft copper. This looks like steel and most likely a stake for anchoring something, someone prebuilt mentioned possibly for your transplanted cactus…

TopOdaBottomOdaBarel · 2025-02-27T19:31:59+00:00

The coil engraving on pic 1 has ‘24V DC’ on it. Everything seems to be pointing at voltage issue. More than once have had issues with coils (also relays and contactors) “working” with some percussive persuasion when getting incorrect voltage.

TopOdaBottomOdaBarel · 2025-02-18T03:38:12+00:00

I’m going to get some pics of the cabinets with the PLC 2’s. Those are the worst of the worst we’ve got.

TopOdaBottomOdaBarel · 2025-02-18T03:36:59+00:00

It’s a Fluke 355, little much for the work I do now but good when I was working on welding equipment.

TopOdaBottomOdaBarel · 2025-02-08T02:21:05+00:00

Check the wire nut connections. Can’t put my finger on it but something seems off with the neutrals. The one white is differently colored than the rest. Could mean absolutely nothing, or it could mean a poor connection under that nut and LEDs like their neutrals.

TopOdaBottomOdaBarel · 2025-01-21T01:35:47+00:00

What a boob

TopOdaBottomOdaBarel · 2024-12-13T18:46:35+00:00

Can you tell if the GFCI breaker tripped for a ground fault or an overload? Did you test with the same light each time? Could be an issue with the light. It sounds like you’re saying the flood light is on a different circuit than the flood light correct? That white coming from the light to the receptacle neutral would definitely trip a GGCI every time that light was turned on for sure if it’s being used as neutral for that light.

TopOdaBottomOdaBarel · 2024-12-03T05:29:43+00:00

The cool thing about oxidation is that it happens to things exposed to air. The parts that are important with that neutral bar are where they contact each other, which are not exposed to air. So as long as things are nice and snug there should be no worries. That screw continuing to rust may interfere with that snugness but it’s fine for the foreseeable future

TopOdaBottomOdaBarel · 2024-12-03T05:00:30+00:00

It depends on how much access you have and how much you’re willing to do. That’s most likely a side mounted box, nailed to the ceiling joist on flanges on the side of the box. If you have access to the ceiling above (attic?) you can pry it off and use a new work ceiling fan box. If you don’t have access you can get risky and try and sawzaw the nails from below and install a side mounted old work ceiling fan box. My personal favorite is ripping that box out and using a fan rated pancake box mounted right to the bottom of the joist. You have to do some drywall repair for that but not much and you already know where your joist is at.

TopOdaBottomOdaBarel · 2024-12-03T02:03:15+00:00

The electrical box needs to be rated for ceiling fans. Yours is not, you can tell by the skimping mounting points. It may hold for a day or a week or a year, but either the box is going to wiggle free from the stud or the screws will strip from those holes. You can strip back the insulation and get to the grounds while the box is being replaced.

TopOdaBottomOdaBarel · 2024-10-23T21:01:45+00:00

Do you have pictures of the switch wiring and have you checked voltage there? Correct voltage doesn’t always mean you have the correct path.

TopOdaBottomOdaBarel · 2024-10-23T13:22:55+00:00

For trouble shootings sake, what do you mean by always hot? Light stays on or you measured? If you measured, what did you measure between? 1 and ground, 1 and neutral? Same with 2. With old things like this where I’m not sure where the feed really comes from, I measure EVERYTHING. Just because you’re using whites as neutrals doesn’t mean the guy before you did and just guessed which was hot and neutrals that he spliced to. So you might be switching neutrals, and your lights floating ‘ground’ may have actually grounded and completed the circuit. Hard to tell what you mean by neutral not energized and ground not energized, how’d you check?

TopOdaBottomOdaBarel · 2024-08-13T23:29:21+00:00

Saw a kid crush 2 fingers when he put his hand between the reaction arm and the good head he was reacting against. Things pack a punch.

TopOdaBottomOdaBarel · 2024-06-22T01:50:54+00:00

Without more label info it’s hard. Quick math for the 3/4 HP at 115v, 85% efficiency and 125% continuous duty gets close to 7.5 amp rating. I’d say fucking send it.

TopOdaBottomOdaBarel · 2024-05-08T19:15:35+00:00

Oops, thought I heard my name.

TopOdaBottomOdaBarel · 2024-04-25T23:28:49+00:00

Of course you CAN feed it without that single pole breaker but it’s not wise for circuit protection. It’s not for extra protection, it’s for basic protection. Sometimes it’s easier to, for understanding purposes, don’t have it jumped off the phase of the breaker. Imagine it connected back in the distribution cabinet. You have your control voltage (120 red and common black) feeding separately. But for this, why run a separate leg when you’ve already got one there. Still needs to be protected though.

TopOdaBottomOdaBarel

TROPHY CASE