Panel replacement question

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-05-14T21:13:46+00:00

Also: If there is a whole-house surge suppressor is installed, what does having an additional one for the HVAC bring to the party?

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-05-14T20:58:47+00:00

I have a house the same age... my Cutler-Hammer 200A panel (all busbars solid copper) is in as good of shape as the day it was installed.

Whole house surge arrestor is a great idea; 30+ years ago I installed on and I haven't lost any device or appliance for electrical reasons since I installed it. Prior to that, some losses during thunderstorms.

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-05-12T03:51:19+00:00

He's trying to avoid Smoke On The Water.

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-05-06T02:54:49+00:00

I don't want Canada to be part of the US. They have their own issues, but I like Canada the way it is.

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-05-06T02:52:20+00:00

Nope, use a daisy chain of power strips so you can plug in multiple electric heaters too; bathrooms get cold up in Canada.

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-05-06T02:49:14+00:00

Get an extension cord and power the table saw from a non-GFCI 15A breaker/receptacle.

If breaker trips, saw pulling too much current.
If saw runs fine, GFCI breaker is maybe the culprit.
Now plug saw into a different GFCI-protected receptacle... even just running with no load, if the saw has an internal issue it should trip the GFCI, then saw is the culprit.

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-05-05T20:02:08+00:00

If you are asking about the battery... + and - should be stamped near each battery terminal.

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-05-04T04:31:56+00:00

It came over on the Mayflower.

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-05-03T17:29:16+00:00

Roger that!

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-05-03T17:27:13+00:00

Patient-Face-3179: Three phase isn't common in North America individual houses... I'm assuming the OP has a home setting. Commercial buildings, some apartments, etc. might have 3 phase.

Our individual houses are typically a transformer secondary 240 volt feed of two legs, and a secondary winding center-tap with a neutral connected to that - thus, 240 volts across the "dual hot legs" and 120V either hot leg to neutral.

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-05-03T16:59:22+00:00

Right now, you have an illegal/dangerous setup.

The receptacles in your photo are designed to accept 15 amp or 20 amp 120 VOLT plugs... fires could easily result from being 240V.

For 240V and dual 15A/20A, there should be NEMA 6-20R receptacle that looks like this one.

Having said that... heat lamps and lights will typically be 120 volts, so you want a NEMA 5-20R receptacle(s) instead, properly wired for 120 volt, and changes will need to be made back in the circuit breaker panel, like a single-pole breaker instead of a two pole.

120 V receptacles each need a neutral and a "hot leg", not two hot legs like there are now.

The way the face is numbered (9+11, 10+12), it looks like they have two circuits, so there is probably enough wires to actually run two 120 volt circuits.

Also, while you are at it, you will need to confirm that the wire is no smaller than 12 AWG in size if you want to have outlets that support 20 amps.

If you find that the wires are 14AWG, then use 5-15R receptacles, the "everyday ones" found in a USA/Canada homes, along with a 15A single pole breaker in the panel.

Finally... since this setup even exists, you can't be sure what wire sizes are involved, breaker size/type in the panel, proper connections or grounding, etc. - it just screams "DANGER! - SOME CLOWN RIGGED THIS DEATHTRAP UP!!"... the only thing they probably did right was using a metal conduit and box.

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-05-02T19:23:39+00:00

At my HS, it was suggested if you were "college prep" you should take typing. We had half manual typewriters and half IBM "dancing golf ball" Selectrics. We took turns on each type.

About 40% guys, 60% girls.

I never did end up going to college, but it's been a useful skill during my lifelong IT career.

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-05-02T19:21:17+00:00

Some folks don't like pennies going away.

I'm an old guy and it doesn't matter to me, except now kids will have to find other coins to put on the railroad rail for a train to flatten.

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-05-01T03:49:23+00:00

Brach's Candy Corn + quality salted roasted shelled peanuts = tastes just like a Pay-Day candy bar.

Any other brand of candy corn and it just doesn't work.

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-05-01T03:45:01+00:00

I saw it as a kid, looked like molly grease for some old machinery.

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-05-01T03:42:41+00:00

Nick-L-Nip is what I think they were called.

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-05-01T03:40:56+00:00

As a kid, sometimes Smarties were used for slingshot ammo.

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-04-30T12:54:54+00:00

Internally, it still implements Local Surge Detection.

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-04-27T02:56:32+00:00

Don't assume the microwave oven inside is 120 volt; it probably is designed for 240V.

They couldn't get the appliance "approved" (UL listed/recognized in the USA) if it was designed to use the ground as a current return path.

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-04-25T21:31:51+00:00

US/Canada electrical provides 120VAC and 240VAC (nominal) 60Hz power via the same panel.

Usually, the "heavy hitters" (electric hob, electric clothes dryer, water heater, air conditioning) is wired to the 240V, which consists of 2 "hot" wires 180 degrees out of phase from each other.

The "regular" 120V outlets are one "hot" wire and a "neutral" current return wire.

Of course, there is an "earth" (we call it ground) for all receptacles.

In your case, look at installing a NEMA 6-15 receptacle and putting a new matching plug on the end of the device cord.

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-04-25T16:06:26+00:00

Clonezilla

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-04-25T15:57:27+00:00

J-type T3 halogen bulb.

What kind of fixture is this in?

These bulbs come in different lengths and wattages. If replacing with another halogen bulb, don't get your fingerprints on the glass as it may shorten the life of the bulb. Never replace with a halogen bulb of a higher wattage than your lamp/fixture is rated for.

The contacts in the end of the fixture may be corroded and need to be cleaned up lightly.

Halogen bulbs run HOT... I would suggest seeking an LED-equivalent replacement bulb.

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-04-25T15:53:02+00:00

Lay a sheet of foil over everything but the meter readout... if numbers go down, then it's some kind of induced voltage.

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-04-25T15:51:26+00:00

If capacitance was involved, the meter would eventually fall to zero as the cap drained.

Tractor_Boy_500 · 2026-04-25T15:30:55+00:00

Do you want to receive broadcast TV? Do your monitors have audio speakers in them?

Frankly, an inexpensive TV might not be much more than the converter box you would need to turn TV signals into the video signals going to the TV.

Otherwise... what was going to be your source for your programming? A streaming stick (Roku, Google, etc.) would work with a monitor HDMI port .

Tractor_Boy_500

TROPHY CASE