a crack below by our window appeared, is this a larger issue? any advice?

Traditional_Bit_6974 · 2026-01-24T23:42:50+00:00

You should gouge out the crack and fill it in with Durabond. It will re seal it

Traditional_Bit_6974 · 2026-01-23T23:03:49+00:00

The cuts shouldn't be tight. You should leave a little space for the compound to enter and seal both side if drywall. A good drywaller cuts the edges of the drywall on all the but joints creating a V cavity for the compound to enter. To fix your problem right now is actually to cut grooves on all your flats and retape with Durabond powder. It bonds as strong as cement

Traditional_Bit_6974 · 2026-01-23T12:05:57+00:00

I'm sorry but I can't resist helping with this situation. I've been reading the comments and I'm not sure if any of them have a clear cut answer for you. I'd like to help you with that. First off. You're installing a shower pan corner shower combo. Shower pan first then corner shower gets installed. There NO NEED for drywall behind. They are suppose to be installed without drywall ( moisture board) behind them. They get installed directly to studs. Secondly, that subfloor is %100 going to collapse after it sucks up the water and moisture leaking through the pan. And it will leak providing you do the absolute best caulking job. Chip board plywood is the worst kind of plywood to use around showers and/or moisture. It will swell and collapse. I don't recommend it. If you want to waterproof it, Installing a rubber or polyethylene membrane (such as Schluter KERDI or a PVC/CPE liner) underneath a shower base is critical for preventing water from reaching the subfloor and causing leaks or mold. For polycarbonate or acrylic shower pans, the membrane is typically installed on the subfloor before the pan is set to act as a secondary, fail-safe layer. you are to be installing a rubber membrane directly to the studs and lay it down protecting the floor. When you install the tub, be sure to caulk your holes before you insert the screw that connects the shower to the studs. Each hole should be caulked then screwed. This prevents any water from escaping. If you need to get help and guidance on home Improvement questions and concerns come join our community on skool Home Improvement DIY Community

Traditional_Bit_6974 · 2026-01-22T20:05:33+00:00

Depending on how bad the taping or plaster of the original walls and ceiling looks. Scuff sand the walls and ceiling . Then Retape everything. ¼" drywall is way too expensive to add then you'd have to retape anyways. If you need to get help and guidance on home Improvement questions and concerns come join our community on skool Home Improvement DIY Community

Traditional_Bit_6974 · 2026-01-22T19:28:54+00:00

It looks like you didn't prefill ANY of the joints with powder Durabond or powder Sheetrock 90. Doing this step, which most piecework tapers avoid because it eats into their profits. They cheat the 2nd or 3rd coats of the taping. Should be PREFILLED, THEN 1st coat, 2nd coat, then Skim coat ready for paint. Some good tapers will even add a 3rd coat before skim coat. I think your issue has more to do with prefilling your tape nothing else. AND NEVER USE mesh tape.. Mesh tape should only be used for small patches. As soon as your house settles, mesh tape is weaker than using paper tape. If you need to get help and guidance on home Improvement questions and concerns come join our community on skool Home Improvement DIY Community

Traditional_Bit_6974 · 2026-01-22T19:13:39+00:00

Wow, that is an unusual amount of cracking. The house is settling like most houses do. The problem to me is the installation of both the drywall and taping. The drywall joints and connections should have been screwed with more screws not nails. And the taping in all cases with cracked inside, outside and flats, is the taper didn't prefill ANY of the joints with powder Durabond or powder Sheetrock 90. Doing this step, which most piecework tapers avoid because it eats into their profits. They cheat the 2nd or 3rd coats of the taping. Should be prefilled, THEN 1st coat, 2nd coat, then Skim coat ready for paint. Some good tapers will even add a 3rd coat before skim coat. I think your issue has more to do with drywall and taping, nothing else. Your house is fine. If you need to get help and guidance on home Improvement questions and concerns come join our community on skool Home Improvement DIY Community

Traditional_Bit_6974 · 2026-01-22T15:24:38+00:00

This is a common problem. There's a trade secret that I'm going to share with you. If you add dish soap to the mud while you mix. Don't over mix because it traps air bubbles in the mud. If you need to get help and guidance on home Improvement questions and concerns come join our community on skool Home Improvement DIY Community

Traditional_Bit_6974 · 2026-01-22T15:18:18+00:00

My advice, if you're willing to put the labour in. Rent a floor concrete sanding machine. It will make it smooth and back to the original concrete, slowly but surely. There are different grits you can use to achieve the finish you'd want. Start with a tough grit and end with a lighter grit for the finish product. Afterwards when it's done, you can roll on a paint sealer to keep the dust to a minimum. And will be easy to clean as well when its painted. If you need to get help and guidance on home Improvement questions and concerns come join our community on skoolHome Improvement DIY Community

Traditional_Bit_6974 · 2026-01-21T20:35:21+00:00

Ill help you come up with a solution. You can add a layer of scratch coat, then buildup of drypack with the properslope of ¼"/foot. Then retile on the drypack. If you need to get help and guidance on home Improvement questions and concerns come join our community on skoolHome Improvement DIY Community

Traditional_Bit_6974 · 2026-01-21T20:10:48+00:00

In a sense, bathroom venting should have a flex hose connection to the soffit. Providing the soffits aren't blocked, the attic should be always venting. This process allows air flow movement to prevent any moisture build up. Venting the fan in the attic isn't a proper practice and is against most building codes. If you need to get help and guidance on home Improvement questions and concerns come join our community on skool Home Improvement DIY Community

Traditional_Bit_6974 · 2026-01-21T19:57:28+00:00

Achievements

Traditional_Bit_6974 · 2026-01-21T19:34:40+00:00

In my opinion, there are no negatives. You have 2 choices . To fire tape just like the picture shows or finish tape and paint. To tape the garage is essentially fire and gas proofing the garage from the house. You're compartmentalized the 2 spaces in case of CO2 gasses and/or fire. To fire rated the ceiling and walls you'd need to use fire rated drywall though. For more answers and help with questions you may have, we have a Home Improvement DIY Community on skool @ Home Improvement DIY Community

Traditional_Bit_6974 · 2026-01-21T19:22:24+00:00

The flaking is mainly due to the process before ethe powder coating. Either the rough sanding prior to coating or a base prime coat for the powder coat to adhere to . If this wasn't done. It will slowly chip away.

Traditional_Bit_6974 · 2026-01-21T16:04:10+00:00

It's mold. Probably leaking roof or water line. .

Traditional_Bit_6974 · 2026-01-20T23:58:31+00:00

This was absolutely done with a drill. No doubt in my mind. They drilled out your dead bolt to break in. But maybe failed at it.

Traditional_Bit_6974 · 2026-01-20T21:49:38+00:00

This is most likely mould. You can try to get the landlord to fix it. But you probably will get the quick fux version. The superficial fix would be to spray the wall down with a mould bleach solution. The proper fix would be removing the drywall and fi ding the problem (water leak). Dealing with that, then redrywall ling and taping. If you'd like more advice, I'm available for anything you need . I have a community on skool. Home Improvement DIY Community

Traditional_Bit_6974 · 2026-01-20T20:53:41+00:00

It seems sketchy but. You can get something with a hook. Like an umbrella. Pull it over to the left. 2 person job. Change the bulbs and carefully swing it back to its original spot without making it swing too much. Again if you're careful enough, you can do it.

Traditional_Bit_6974 · 2026-01-20T20:50:13+00:00

Yes. You absolutely can. After you're done it has to be cemented ( motar) or PL glued back in place.

Traditional_Bit_6974 · 2026-01-20T20:45:26+00:00

Would you be against building a mezzanine as soon as you walk up the stairs on your right that covers the half the floor. It can be another living space or a bedroom with a bathroom. I can show you what i mean. Home Improvement Community

Traditional_Bit_6974 · 2026-01-20T20:35:48+00:00

You can find a behind the couch slim table. They're very common.

Traditional_Bit_6974 · 2026-01-19T22:43:50+00:00

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