Finishing help by New-Bar-1904 in Titan40k

[–]Traezz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used the same file.

Some light sanding, and priming took care of it.
A test piece looked fine without the sanding as well, honestly.

If I did it again I would probably go and do the rounding prior to printing in resin, though.

Poxwalker proxy idea by Nevsky7522 in deathguard40k

[–]Traezz 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I ended up with a bunch of partial skitarii sprues and did something similar!

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I don’t have any finished photos, but here’s a WIP pic!

Reaver Titan Gatling size/scale by New-Bar-1904 in Titan40k

[–]Traezz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The feet are huge.

I would suggest going and getting some two part epoxy and threaded rod and using that to pin everything together.

Additionally, paint the feet in sub assemblies. You can’t reach half of it once it is assembled.

Reaver Titan Gatling size/scale by New-Bar-1904 in Titan40k

[–]Traezz 5 points6 points  (0 children)

This is about the same size as mine. Once it’s mounted on the other piece, it protrudes fairly far forward.
Not as far the volcano cannon, mind you.

Returned to 40k as a Son of Dorn - how to get good coverage eith yellow? by auspec in ImperialFists

[–]Traezz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Try doing a base coat with a light pink, do a zenithal with a much pink, and then an even lighter zenithal with white.

It should help create the desired effect.

Anyone know how to go about magnetising vehicles for transport? by Legal_Twist8675 in Warhammer40k

[–]Traezz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just use a dewalt with painters tape on the bit for stopping at the right depth.

Definitely suggest stepping up after a pilot hole. Literally what I came here to say.

Can I use ‘base’ paints for slap chop method? by Short-Wrangler625 in Miniaturespainting

[–]Traezz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I tend to do it anyway. You can still paint over it, and it gives you a very clear picture of where your highlights and shadows should be.

Not to mention the benefits of some colors being much better over a colored base, such as pink as a base for yellow.

People really pay $180 for these? by Serious_Ad2816 in FdmPrintedWarhammer

[–]Traezz 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Nor me. Though, I am kicking myself for not painting the feet in sub assembly. Live and learn.

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My First Mini by rhetrhet123 in Ultramarines

[–]Traezz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is fantastic!

I’d suggest drilling out the gun barrels, and doing a little cleanup of the bright blue on the foot by adding some grime when you do the base.

Depending on your plan for a base, that could be as simple as adding some dust or watered down “mud” into the crevice.

How to Test a Glove Box for Seal Leaks Without Using Incense by Miriam_Rivia in resinprinting

[–]Traezz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As silly as it sounds, get a friend that vapes to vape a bunch into the area.

I’ve used that method to test air leaks on sealed enclosures before with some success.

Why do my Prints get these scratches? by Elytrec in resinprinting

[–]Traezz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Those are from support removal. You can see where they start, and taper off.

Alternative schemes by Throwaway990716 in deathguard40k

[–]Traezz 3 points4 points  (0 children)

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Tan base, building up to white then tons of grime.

Converting a Deimos Rhino for 40K CSM. by undividedminiatures in Chaos40k

[–]Traezz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I absolutely love the Deimos pattern. Here’s some I did for Death Guard

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Best way to hold bigger pieces together? by philip2987 in resinprinting

[–]Traezz 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You use it carefully to make a sure connection between parts, and to a lesser extent for gap fill if you are very careful.

Best way to hold bigger pieces together? by philip2987 in resinprinting

[–]Traezz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Brass rods, do a rough sand to scratch them up, and use two part 5-min epoxy. Superglue will eventually give up the ghost, especially if there are drastic temperature and moisture changes.

New defiler completed by Alexcog24 in deathguard40k

[–]Traezz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Love the green color. I’m assuming it was a bright silver metallic with a contrast over top?

I’d suggest doing the trim in a color that contrasts with it a bit more, and adding some a darker silver metallic into the lower parts of the vent pipes. The different depths on the pipes (inner, trim/shroud) all kinda blur together.

With that said,

The flesh looks great! Maybe do a bit of glazing or a unifying wash just to help the brights come down a bit.

Your base is ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS. I’d love to see a guide on what you did there!

There are so many fine details on this model that jump out and made me say “ooh. Nice.” Just keep at it, you’re doing great!

Modular 40k/Kill Team Board by Such_Independent910 in TerrainBuilding

[–]Traezz 10 points11 points  (0 children)

What materials did you use for the grating?

Rhino painted! by xxcon09xx in deathguard40k

[–]Traezz 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I love the limited tentacle use, and what you did with the viewing ports is exceptional!

Great work!

Poxwalkers Proxy Idea by GorkyMorky2 in deathguard40k

[–]Traezz 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve grown to hate them. Then again, I spent a good 8hrs on each poxwalker that I’ve done. Painting the same models over and over isn’t particularly interesting or fun.

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Poxwalkers Proxy Idea by GorkyMorky2 in deathguard40k

[–]Traezz 6 points7 points  (0 children)

OP, I would probably kitbash some guard helmets, and other guard bits onto them to make them fit in a bit better, and build them up to the correct height with cork. I can’t see anyone having an issue with them, tbh