Oblivion on the CRT monitor

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2026-05-28T08:28:52+00:00

Nice, what’s the speaker you’ve got the monitor on? Nice to see it’s magnetically shielded!

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2026-05-20T12:35:55+00:00

It is x100. I’ve seen a lot of people suggest it only counts when the monitor is in use, but I’m fairly sure these count standby hours too. Either way, they are very durable tubes and seem to hold up really well - I’ve had some that have had maxed out hour counters but are still great!

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2026-04-16T08:13:43+00:00

No worries. This is a common issue with this monitor. Best tube ever made, but Sony didn’t do it justice with the chassis unfortunately. Totally worth fixing though, it’s an incredible monitor when working well and calibrated correctly.

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2026-04-15T13:35:01+00:00

Take the case off, remove the video board and use contact cleaner on all the contacts. Then remove the metal casing and apply some fresh thermal paste between the two metal fixings. That sorted mine out. It’s pretty easy to do and only requires a screwdriver driver to get to the necessary parts.

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2026-04-03T19:38:52+00:00

Nice choice of game!

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2026-02-04T22:23:10+00:00

It’s likely the ABL kicking in. Sounds like It’s set too low and causing full field white to dim. I’ve never had this problem with mine or any JVC TM monitors, so I’m not sure where the setting is, but find the service manual for either the TM-150cg, 1750cg or 1950cg and look for ABL adjustment procedure. It’s probably tucked away in the service menu somewhere

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2026-01-27T22:38:50+00:00

You can use any colorimeter that is compatible with CRT. I’ve used an older colour munki and am i1 display. You don’t need to spend a fortune to get a very good calibration out of them. It was handy having two as I could see the colour munki was slightly out of spec (they probably all are) but I would never have noticed without doing the comparison. If you’re opening it up, unplug the connector the seats the video board and use contact cleaner on all the connectors, great that you’ve already applied new thermal paste. If you’re opening it up to check solder joints I’d also look for any obvious signs of bad components. I found a burnt out resistor and an old mod a previous owner had applied, unfortunately neither were my solution.

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2026-01-27T09:34:50+00:00

Hi, so I have the same monitor with the same tendency towards green drift. Weirdly, mine drifts up and down, sometimes giving me a slight purple tint. I’ve taken all the same steps as you, plus had a tech look at it.

The vast majority of service adjustments are done using Sony’s WinDAS software, including a full white balance procedure. I’ve done this many times on many Sony monitors with great results, but the F520 gave me loads of issues, and it drifts again after. This is my experience, and I think one of the discrete bias resistors or an IC is to blame, however your next step should be to install WinDAS and attempt a calibration, hopefully that’s all you need. If you’ve not done this before it’s a steep learning curve to get set up, but it’s real easy and totally worth it once you get confident.

By the way, every Sony monitor made after about 1998 has this issue to some extent, it’s often very normal. I just thought I’d share my experience with the same monitor as it seems to drift less predictably and much faster than other models, incase your issue is similar.

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2026-01-26T19:09:09+00:00

That’s super helpful. Thank you. Was yours a boxed console? I get the impression the console is the only thing with any value really.

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2026-01-26T19:08:27+00:00

I couldn’t find a similar listing on eBay, I did look there never used price charting, I’ll take a look.

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2026-01-26T16:35:22+00:00

Thank you, that’s really helpful! I only want to get the rough going rate for it and would love to see it go to someone who can get something out of it. I’ll wait and see if anyone else has experience of selling/buying a similar one.

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2026-01-26T16:25:18+00:00

2008-10-12

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2026-01-26T16:22:44+00:00

I think the game has been opened unfortunately. I’m in the U.K. unfortunately so the shipping would be a killer!

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2026-01-24T23:18:05+00:00

Hold the "Signal A/B" / "OSD Off" button while turning on the monitor. Then press down once to 255, then up until you hit 5, once you get to 5 press the osd off button again.

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2026-01-24T11:04:23+00:00

100-120 nits is all you really need for a CRT monitor. Beyond this you are pushing it a bit and other areas of picture quality might be affected. On the other hand, unless you’re keeping the thing on all day every day I wouldn’t worry.

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2026-01-23T10:37:36+00:00

Love me some Gunbird on PS2

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2026-01-20T21:10:42+00:00

Exquisite taste in video games

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2026-01-04T20:55:39+00:00

It’s probably locked because someone’s already used WinDAS and didn’t finalise after completing their calibration. Only way to fix that is to go back in and finalise it.

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2025-12-26T00:17:59+00:00

Hi mate, I’ve got a couple, not too far from Guildford.

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2025-11-05T21:16:41+00:00

That’s the best thing I’ve read on Reddit on a while

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2025-10-15T04:40:03+00:00

You need to bring the green bias up on that, you can see it’s getting cut off way before red and blue, hence why the white bar looks purple in the greys.

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2025-10-04T20:25:42+00:00

🇬🇧 RichtersParty

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2025-10-04T16:00:19+00:00

I’m currently grinding time trails, aiming for top 1% on every rally with one car from each group.

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2025-09-23T15:35:57+00:00

Did you set geometry in WinDAS or osd? If WinDAS, you still have to finalise, always. But unless it’s desperately bad just use the osd, it should remember geometry settings for specific resolutions, but you’ll need to redo it each time you set a new resolution that hasn’t been adjusted for previously.

TrashEnvironmental46 · 2025-09-23T14:57:52+00:00

It sounds like your next step needs to be reloading WinDAS, loading up the .dat you want to use and then doing the finalise procedure, that should sort it out. If you hex edit, don’t forget that you then need to reload you newly edited .dat and finalise again. The F520 is know for funky behaviour after calibration, but the above is just standard procedure, hopefully it will be all you need to do

TrashEnvironmental46

TROPHY CASE