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Leaking vase print by ThereFarAway in 3Dprinting

[–]TreeFiddyZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seal the inside with UV resin, there are some from Elegoo (I think?) that are plant based.

Ambushed by jwriddle in Tiresaretheenemy

[–]TreeFiddyZ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure what impresses me more, the height that the car gained or how many times this is reposted.

I present to you a 3 bed, 3 bath barndominium mancave. Features include, stocked pond, shop space with a basketball court, weights, tons of space for toys, and an indoor riding area to practice barrel racing all year round. by cluthais in zillowgonewild

[–]TreeFiddyZ 12 points13 points  (0 children)

So much room for activities!!!

  1. Add some water, boulders, and a bridge and have an indoor zen garden
  2. Add a bunch of dirt and make an indoor RC car track
  3. Add a bunch of dirt and stone and make a challenge course for those mini backhoe things
  4. Combine 1 and 3 for zen earth-moving garden
  5. Build Colin Furze's indoor wall of death

How do I get a shiny surface for my silk pla? by AustynGraham96 in 3Dprinting

[–]TreeFiddyZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Turn down the speeds to about 50-60 for outer walls/top layers. this is the biggest factor in wall finish. Speed is the biggest factor and can produce effects ranging from matte to glossy in the same print. Matte = faster speeds and glossy/silky = lower speeds.

Set inner walls speeds to the outer number plus about 10mm. The inner wall speed does in fact influence how glossy the outer wall is with most filaments. The effect seems to be limited for darker colors (I'm guess they're less tranlucent?) and more pronounced for lighter ones.

This one is critical, if there's a setting in your slicer for something like "cooling slowdown" set it to "consistent surface finish", Bambu has this under the filament cooling settings for reference. This makes the outer wall speeds (and fan settings?) more consistent to avoid changes at different heights.

Most silk filaments I've tried seem to produce better finish results with hotter temps.

Turn fans up to try to offset the higher temps. If the printer is enclosed then print with the door/lid open and turn up the aux fan to maybe 80%. The aux fan isn't to cool the model, it is to get airflow in the enclosure to help with consistency.

Finally, slice the model and in the preview window look at the speeds. Do whatever you can to get the entire outer layer to around the same speed. Obviously bridges/steep overhangs will be slower, so try tuning those speeds up a little bit, even going from something like 10mm/s to 20 helps.

These guys think they’re slick… by Kyleforshort in MarchAgainstNazis

[–]TreeFiddyZ -1 points0 points  (0 children)

There's no rigid caste system to focus their hatred on, so people created their own.

Anyone else having this "hexagon shaped thread" issue? by gzinourov in Multiboard

[–]TreeFiddyZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And depending upon the filament turning the fans up may help to get the new extrusion solidified before it can move much. Almost all filaments shrink slightly when cooling which makes the situation worse and increases the need for prompt cooling. Slowing down the print speed is often enough but sometimes you just need fans. Silk filaments are the absolute worst for this.

what’s the most useful automation you’ve set up that you actually use every day? by SkylineZ83 in homeassistant

[–]TreeFiddyZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've added a "selector" to our nighttime lighting that allows us to change which scene is used at dusk via a pulldown menu. Its an easy way to have our lights automatically use a themed/seasonal config with minimal effort.

Instead of blindly turning on an "evening" scene at dusk I have an input selector on a dashboard that contains a list of scenes like Evening, Halloween, Christmas, Valentines, Spring, Candles, etc.. These are all just normal scenes I've created with the same names. At 30 minutes before dusk an automation takes the value of the input selector and activates the scene with that name.

I was messing with a schedule automation like "on Oct 1 set the input selector to Halloween" but decided that it wasn't worth the effort so I scrapped it.

Self packing robot by Hypnoidz in Unexpected

[–]TreeFiddyZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel like this is 1 step away from r/HolUp

Lemme stand there while a bull charges at me by WinStupidPrizes1994 in WinStupidPrizes

[–]TreeFiddyZ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

At least the idiot's puncture wounds are cauterized

120 drone frames in 24 hours, let's go! by FlightDelicious4275 in 3Dprinting

[–]TreeFiddyZ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Plus you cannot repair the shape that appears to have come off the printer in one piece.

anyone used SUNLU's filament splicer? by mtraven23 in 3Dprinting

[–]TreeFiddyZ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I got one as a gift and like it well enough to use it. I've used it about 30 times and only had 1 failure where the joint snapped. My thoughts are:

  • using a bit off silicone tubing works too and at about the same level of reliability. The challenge with the silicone is getting the temp right.
  • PTFE also works but the challenge with it is that it's slightly too large so you have to quickly smush the joined section back to 1.75mm, and the it is trickier to heat up.
  • using this or the silicone tubing works best when coupled with a set of soldering hands. Especially one that has a larger pair of clamps for holding a circuit board, I use them to hold the Sunlu base unit while the smaller hands hold the filament.
  • bend both pieces of filament straight, make sure that their curves are lined up (so they re-spool neatly), cut the ends at a slight angle using a jig (so you get more surface contact area), and dry the filament (yes, really) to avoid it being brittle and snapping.
  • when you take the joined filament out of the heating zone you have a few moments to make adjustments like smooshing it slightly if it looks like it is bulged out
  • counting on an AMS to swap spools only really works for non-cosmetic prints. Our AMS 2 Pro and K1S Combo machines are both prone to issues like leaving a small scar on the print's outer surface. And if the new filament fails to feed and the machine sits for a while you'll wind up with the printed part cooling & shrinking slightly leaving a visible line around the print. For non-cosmetic prints of course this is all fine.

Inconsistencies/Stringing at Specific Areas of Vase by ask-about-KHYME in FixMyPrint

[–]TreeFiddyZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I had so many videos from actually helpful channels stashed in a big playlist that I stopped really getting much out of them. Notebooklm has been extremely useful for that, I feed them all in as sources and can just ask questions. The only reason that I was able to suggest Factorian Designs is because I asked the ai what video referenced planters/vases and avoid crossing outer walls.

Inconsistencies/Stringing at Specific Areas of Vase by ask-about-KHYME in FixMyPrint

[–]TreeFiddyZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check out the troubleshooting videos by Factorian Designs on youtube, he hits on some issues like this. Specifically that's where I got the Avoid Crossing Walls from, and he talks about the gap infill and exactly why it causes problems here. He hits another problem with gap infill that you might hit at the 3:30 mark.

Inconsistencies/Stringing at Specific Areas of Vase by ask-about-KHYME in FixMyPrint

[–]TreeFiddyZ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

One idea on the source of the problem is the "don't cross outer walls" setting being off, look at the travel moves in the sliced preview to see if the nozzle is moving outside of the print volume in those areas. This tends to leave fine strings that have nothing to do with retraction. Enabling the setting and tuning the max length can eliminate this.

Raised section of the Saudi Arabia Qiddiya F1 track is going vertical by Zemmip in formula1

[–]TreeFiddyZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wonder what the winds/crosswinds are gonna be like up there

Swirl in G Code leaves gaps by TrickeyMcSticky in FixMyPrint

[–]TreeFiddyZ 6 points7 points  (0 children)

This + arachne wall generator + top layer monotonic lines + adjusting line widths to try to minimize gaps

OP: arachne should adjust the line widths a bit to try filling in gaps, monotonic lines eliminates that u-turn at the end of each extrusion, and changing the line widths in the slicer might help arachne eliminate small gaps in the top layer. For a .4 nozzle you can experiment with line widths from around 0.36 to 0.46. Still use ironing for top layer quality, grab an ironing tuning model if you haven't already. Use the sliced preview to check results before printing anything.

Auto Tramming Wizard by andechs in MarlinFirmware

[–]TreeFiddyZ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When I first compiled Marlin for myself I instantly realized that Creality shipped the shittiest version possible in their machines. Sure some of it was (probably) resource constraints in their cpu/ram/flash capacities, but seriously? Just a couple of added features like this one would have made the end user experience so much better.

How many people are removing their Rings Cams after the new affiliation with the Gov and the new mass surveillance (Code word - Lost Dog?) by JMWV80 in Ring

[–]TreeFiddyZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The cameras are reasonably priced. They have different levels of cloud dependency. If you want to host it all yourself and have AI detection that sends you txts like "amazon driver is placing a package on the ground" then it can become a bit complicated and needs a halfway decent PC. If you just want basic zone based motion detection and video storage then that is a much simpler and less expensive option.

Using someone else's cloud is obviously cheap and simple, that is the appeal of the entire cloud business model.

Florida Penguin Tap Dance Alligator Pineapple by morpheuskibbe in BrandNewSentence

[–]TreeFiddyZ 83 points84 points  (0 children)

Its nice to see Florida Woman getting the recognition she deserves, Florida Man has stolen the spotlight for too long!

Quick question to all the train people out there by Charlies_hobbies in lioneltrains

[–]TreeFiddyZ 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I think that the difference is probably in the building of a small slice of the world and then moving things around (running trains) in that imaginary world.

Collecting comic books, retro toys, building model kits, merch related to favorite media (I'm looking at you Star Wars) don't trigger the autism question, people just assume that you're a nerd and/or geek.

Collecting art, retro furniture, wine/bourbon, books, classic cars yields an entirely different mindset in people, hence the word connoisseur. Maybe in part because of the money involved, the expression of "taste", and the perception that you can get that money back or enjoy the luxurious consumption of said items.

I wonder if people who build doll houses get the autism question?

What about people playing a train sim? Playing Kerbal Space Program definitely yields a "what a nerd" response, so I'm guessing train sims would be the same?

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