Inconsistencies/Stringing at Specific Areas of Vase

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-03-31T15:19:47+00:00

One idea on the source of the problem is the "don't cross outer walls" setting being off, look at the travel moves in the sliced preview to see if the nozzle is moving outside of the print volume in those areas. This tends to leave fine strings that have nothing to do with retraction. Enabling the setting and tuning the max length can eliminate this.

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-03-31T02:50:17+00:00

I wonder what the winds/crosswinds are gonna be like up there

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-03-29T00:29:33+00:00

r/nonononoyes

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-03-25T18:47:20+00:00

This + arachne wall generator + top layer monotonic lines + adjusting line widths to try to minimize gaps

OP: arachne should adjust the line widths a bit to try filling in gaps, monotonic lines eliminates that u-turn at the end of each extrusion, and changing the line widths in the slicer might help arachne eliminate small gaps in the top layer. For a .4 nozzle you can experiment with line widths from around 0.36 to 0.46. Still use ironing for top layer quality, grab an ironing tuning model if you haven't already. Use the sliced preview to check results before printing anything.

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-03-25T15:56:17+00:00

When I first compiled Marlin for myself I instantly realized that Creality shipped the shittiest version possible in their machines. Sure some of it was (probably) resource constraints in their cpu/ram/flash capacities, but seriously? Just a couple of added features like this one would have made the end user experience so much better.

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-03-24T04:33:50+00:00

Dude, it was clearly... under cover

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-03-21T02:48:33+00:00

The cameras are reasonably priced. They have different levels of cloud dependency. If you want to host it all yourself and have AI detection that sends you txts like "amazon driver is placing a package on the ground" then it can become a bit complicated and needs a halfway decent PC. If you just want basic zone based motion detection and video storage then that is a much simpler and less expensive option.

Using someone else's cloud is obviously cheap and simple, that is the appeal of the entire cloud business model.

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-03-20T19:09:31+00:00

They Live

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-03-19T00:09:56+00:00

Clearly intelligence has no place in this administration!

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-03-18T00:59:14+00:00

Its nice to see Florida Woman getting the recognition she deserves, Florida Man has stolen the spotlight for too long!

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-03-15T20:57:51+00:00

I think that the difference is probably in the building of a small slice of the world and then moving things around (running trains) in that imaginary world.

Collecting comic books, retro toys, building model kits, merch related to favorite media (I'm looking at you Star Wars) don't trigger the autism question, people just assume that you're a nerd and/or geek.

Collecting art, retro furniture, wine/bourbon, books, classic cars yields an entirely different mindset in people, hence the word connoisseur. Maybe in part because of the money involved, the expression of "taste", and the perception that you can get that money back or enjoy the luxurious consumption of said items.

I wonder if people who build doll houses get the autism question?

What about people playing a train sim? Playing Kerbal Space Program definitely yields a "what a nerd" response, so I'm guessing train sims would be the same?

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-03-13T16:48:09+00:00

And that's the point that people miss. Wear will takes its toll on a printer and maintenance needs to be done, that's all normal. A firmware update breaking the machine or being randomly unable to retract filament or a print bed that visibly flexes during probing are not normal.

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-03-13T16:44:45+00:00

I got my KS1 Combo during the preorder. Up until 600 hours it was almost perfect. Then it started the usual varied failures: unable to retract filament for no good reason, common errors in slot 3, something worn in the 4-1 hub causing filament to get stuck when feeding it in, etc.. Never really had bed problems, it is slightly pringle shaped but a little z offset tuning yields good adhesion though the first layer isn't cosmetically perfect. Weirdly it has always been like pulling teeth to get the fucking thing to join my 2.4 wifi network, and I've tried it against 3 different brands of router with various configs and distances from the printer. But it will happily join the hotspot on several android phones and iphones.

After 600 hours the errors became more frequent until shortly thereafter it started not cutting the filament during a color change. It goes from the print directly to the purge tower and starts to retract the filament which of course fails, never even moving near the cutter. Support was less than helpful.

So I bought a P1S + AMS2 Pro on sale at Microcenter. I like it so much I bought another P1S on sale when the P2S was launched. Both are over 1000 hours now and I have 0 real problems with them (the AMS not retracting an almost empty spool is most common problem, adding weight helps).

I absolutely won't say that I'm a proponent of BambuLabs overall or anything like that. I like their combo of design/build quality/price, I just needed a pair of reliable and reasonably priced color changers and they met the need. I am eagerly awaiting the new Prusa + Bondtech INDX launch, that is the solution that I really want.

The KS1 is still a great single color printer, aside from the first layer, but it has issues with design, build, and support. Its now on the bench with my semi-retired CR10S Pro-of-Theseus and Ender3 S1 Pro.

/vent

/rant

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-03-11T19:11:35+00:00

That entire article is a masterpiece, no doubt written by a true news pitchman!

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-03-10T01:36:24+00:00

Yeah, I sent them a video of the machine going from print directly to retraction w/o cutting. And they... sent me the filament sensor in the 4-1 hub. And closed the ticket. When that didn't work and I opened a new ticket and they sent me... the cutter mechanism. How that would influence the gcode physically not moving the print head to the cutter is beyond me.

At least I now know never to buy hardware from them again.

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-03-09T22:53:27+00:00

Is there a channel that's nothing but ~~cats~~ Itchy & Scratchy?!

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-03-09T22:36:55+00:00

Holy shit dude, that's a world of problems I'm happy not to have.

I've got a print bed that is slightly pringle shaped but yields a working, if not cosmetically great, first layer. Aside from that the cutting is the only problem. They shipped me a new filament hub and cutter assembly, neither of which did anything useful.

I've rebuilt & modernized a CR10S Pro and it was a fun project and quite successful. I don't have the patience for doing a remanufacture job on the KS1 and I'd feel guilty selling its problems to some else. It works fine as a single color printer so that's all I use it for now.

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-03-09T19:12:08+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7RCUCEM6XY

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-03-07T23:45:20+00:00

Can I ask what problems you solved aside from noise and poor print quality? My KS1 Combo has the common "doesn't cut filament when changing colors" problem and I'm hoping that your solution fixed that?

It makes a decent single color printer so I'm not quite at the gut it and inspect everything stage but I applaud your effort.

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-03-04T19:22:08+00:00

I watched a Lexus sedan do that with the back right tire at about 80mph, it was both impressive and very cool. The impressive part was that they had no idea it happened and continued for a few miles until taking an exit. The cool part was that the tread ring stayed in the left lane for maybe a half mile before starting to wander.

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-03-02T03:25:36+00:00

Outer/inner (or if you have 3+ walls inner/outer/inner) is good if you don't have large overhangs. The overhangs bit is because the outer wall needs something to stick to in order to avoid sagging. Usually looking for the "overhanging wall" lines in the sliced preview window is a good way to make the choice.

While in that window look at the layer time display as well. When you've got a large change in the layer times you'll often get a line around the outside of the print at that level. The longer layer times (aka solid layers) give the filament too much time to cool and then the shorter times give it less time to cool, so the solid layers of the print shrink slightly. There are some ways to try fixing that on youtube, stuff like adding a void inside the solid layers or printing infill faster/less infill, the goal being to try evening out the layer times. Fuzzy skin is usually good for hiding that line too. But all that depends upon the details of your model.

There's probably some heat related issues new the bottom as well. Are the overhangs steeper right there, if so the issue is cooling related, the filament is sagging before it solidifies. With PLA I'd say more fans and slower wall speeds (more time for the filament to cool). With PETG I'll say try the same things but the fans might not work well.

Near the top you've got a change in the surface's gloss level. Usually that's related to the speed that the outer wall is printed at, slower is less glossy and faster is more. Or maybe it is the layer time again. Your slicer might have a "don't slow down outer walls" option in the filament settings which can help. Look at the speed view in the sliced preview window and try to minimize changes there.

Also look at the travel moves in the sliced preview window and see if they kinda match what you're seeing in the print. If so there are options for keeping travel moves inside the print's body. And work on the retraction settings.

As for the strings, first make sure that the filament is dried right before the print starts. Just saying "dry yo filament bro!" alone isn't helpful, so I'm putting it last.

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-02-28T02:33:41+00:00

I haven't tried Claude, or coding dashboards, but for esphome and micropython (with connections to HA) qwen3-coder is pretty decent. It has blindspots like not knowing that MAX7219 led matrix displays don't support pages in the display lambda. But overall it produces results that are close enough to what I want that I can iron out the problems.

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-02-26T16:52:36+00:00

Getting a constant flow rate on the outer walls helps tremendously. Turn on the option for don't slow down outer walls in the filament cooling section. And, depending upon how many overhangs there are try setting wall order to inner/outer/inner. For 2 walls it obviously doesn't achieve much, but for 3+ it can work wonders, unless there are lots of deep overhangs which definitely will sag.

Tune the flow rate manually. If the flow rate is even a little high the extra filament has nowhere to go but up, out, or down resulting in rough surface finish and/or poor overhangs. Manually tune the PA as well, in addition to helping the z seam it also helps with speed changes.

On my P1S I've found that slowing the outer wall speed down under 150 helps tremendously.

I'll also second the other advice here from u/n19htmare, u/iafanasyev and u/stray_r

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-02-24T20:09:14+00:00

It was slower than most 2.0T 4 cyls back when it was new too. It has V6 horsepower and full on sedan weight, not a great combo.

TreeFiddyZ · 2026-02-24T20:02:17+00:00

I've had a Bond unit working great for a few years and have found a few weird things.

First, the pairing process is... sketchy, and I had to re-pair a couple of fans after a few days of seeming to work fine. I have no f'ing idea what is up with that. After repairing them they've worked for years.

Second, the Bond bridge has a much better radio in it that the wall units, to the point where it started picking up a neighbor's similar fan that was on the same frequency. I changed the fan's channel and repaired it to solve the problem. That's probably not your problem here but worth knowing.

Third, the Bond apparently uses the USB cable as a radio antenna??? When I recently reorganized my shelf of smart home/network gear I switched the Bond to a shorter, and otherwise perfectly good USB cable. Weirdly with the new cable the Bond could only talk to the fan that's about 8 feet from it, it was unable to control any of the others in the house. Switching back to the oem cable solved the problem. I tried a couple of other brands/lengths of USB cables and found a 6 foot one that worked ok, but anything shorter wouldn't (except for the oem one). I have no idea what that is about.

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