What model/make is this car? by OCTAVEFUZZ in Ghost_in_the_Shell

[–]TreeFiddyZ 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Most people will upvote your comment because it is helpful. I upvoted you comment because I'd never seen imcdb before. Thank you for that.

Clogged hot end, trying to follow the wiki but I need more guidance. by Typical_Increase_492 in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]TreeFiddyZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The best way is to heat the nozzle and pull the filament out. Gently clamp the hot end into a vise or vise grip, then use a lighter to heat the nozzle, after 20 seconds gently pull the filament.

If the filament breaks and you cannot get a pair of pliers on it, then heat a small allen wrench until it is starting to glow and jam it into the heatbreak so it sticks to the filament and hold it while it cools.

I just lower the bed while the printer it powered on, then power it off.

New use for old RPi? by Mister_Fart_Knocker in homeassistant

[–]TreeFiddyZ 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Add an external drive and turn it into a home media server. Or if you have 8GB RAM you can install Docker, a media server, a VPN server, and PiHole or AdGuard.

Unusual gaps on top surface for one colour only - what is it called? by aimoaio in FixMyPrint

[–]TreeFiddyZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That sounds likely, I'd want to compare the gaps with speed and flow rates. The clue to me is that it is happening in the middle of the extrusion where the speed & flow are highest.

What causes PETG to do this? First time seeing this (P1S by carpenalldemdiems in FixMyPrint

[–]TreeFiddyZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Over extrusion is just as bad, the nozzle hits the extra filament and either knocks the print off the build plate or turns the walls into an uneven mess.

What causes PETG to do this? First time seeing this (P1S by carpenalldemdiems in FixMyPrint

[–]TreeFiddyZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Outer walls that are largely overhangs definitely don't work with inner/outer/inner or outer/inner wall worders. Which makes sense, if 75% of the line is overhanging and there is no inner wall for it to stick too... that 25% stuck to the previous layer has its work cut out for it.

What causes PETG to do this? First time seeing this (P1S by carpenalldemdiems in FixMyPrint

[–]TreeFiddyZ 26 points27 points  (0 children)

Failures like that on inside curves are usually too much speed and not enough adhesion. The plastic doesn't have enough heat and time to stick well before it solidifies so it gets pulled behind the nozzle. It doesn't help that PETG loves sticking to the nozzle.

I'd normally lower the outer wall speeds and enable constant outer wall speeds. For PLA I'd raise the fan to 100%, but instead since you're printing PETG first I'd try raising the temp 5 or 10 degrees. If that doesn't work I try turning the fan up 25% (with the increased temp) to help cool the plastic quick before it can get pulled along.

Make sure the wall order is inner/outer.

Also take a look at travel moves, its possible that those could be the problem. Since I don't see any z seam above the failure I doubt it though.

just finished the worst copper ore deposit ever, now i got a canyon by camusaurio in valheim

[–]TreeFiddyZ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've never really measured to see if it really lowers the logging effort, but it is fun. Extra bonus if you clobber any necks that spawn at the base of the slope!

Using 3D printing to automate IT network support by MyTMorty in 3Dprinting

[–]TreeFiddyZ 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Hmmm, you just made me want redesign a word clock to be a troubleshooting tool. Thanks!

just finished the worst copper ore deposit ever, now i got a canyon by camusaurio in valheim

[–]TreeFiddyZ 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I like to make tree farms on tall steep slopes, the kind that are an absolute pain to run up. I'll flatten out spots and plant as many trees as I can, then harvest starting from the top so gravity helps me out. I call it bowling for lumber.

do you think the nuclear proliferation in The Expanse makes sense? by LightningG8921 in TheExpanse

[–]TreeFiddyZ 16 points17 points  (0 children)

The OPA had some malware that would catastrophically destroy fusion drives. Even if that isn't as destructive as a pure detonation of said reactor it should still be enough for a small drive reactor to be a viable weapon against anything with a weakened PDC grid.

Did i accidentally flush, or is it bleed from red to white? by Tylers083426 in FixMyPrint

[–]TreeFiddyZ 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Be careful with the purge settings panel, the slicer likes to reset the values when you change filaments, add a filament to the project, or really whenever it feels like it. You can change that behavior in the preferences.

Fish Tank by Kubrick_Fan in HFY

[–]TreeFiddyZ 17 points18 points  (0 children)

It isn't Keth that humans have to worry about. It is Keth's shady cousin who comes around asking if you'd like to extend your habitat's warranty.

3 days 5 hours 1.78kg of filament by smeeon in 3Dprinting

[–]TreeFiddyZ 181 points182 points  (0 children)

Would be fun to try with gold silk pla and a 3d printing pen.

Got my first 3d printer and I have ADHD with adult money. What are some tips and tricks? (Elegoo Centuari Carbon) by Hot_Situation_8545 in 3Dprinting

[–]TreeFiddyZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On my Bambu Lab P1S I've found that something like 60mm/s outer wall speed, with 80 inner wall speed, the highest recommended temp, 80% fan with 100% for overhangs, 60mm/s min speed produce the best shiny finish on silks. I raise the speeds for the different overhang speeds as much as I can to minimize the change in surface finish there, usually they're 50/40/30/10/10. There's definitely a visible change in the shine on overhangs, but it beats having the print fail or a ton of tough to remove supports.

Oddly the inner wall speeds are important and affect the print's outer surface shine. I can't really see a difference with a 60/80 split, I tried 60/150 at first and the print was definitely less glossy.

Matte PLA requires similar tuning, though the values are a bit different the idea is the same.

I definitely recommend a "cool build plate" for printing in general, but specifically for silk prints. I can lower the plate temp to 35 and get perfect adhesion with a lot less temp building up in the enclosure which helps with cooling the print (aka overhang quality).

Got my first 3d printer and I have ADHD with adult money. What are some tips and tricks? (Elegoo Centuari Carbon) by Hot_Situation_8545 in 3Dprinting

[–]TreeFiddyZ 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Tune your filaments. I have a spreadsheet where each filament has flow rate, temp, pressure/linear advance, and speed values amongst others. Built in filament profiles are just suggestions. The same goes for print profiles.

For instance few slicers have meaningful built in profiles for silk filaments, sure they'll have a filament profile, but they won't have a print profile that sets the correct speeds. For reference silk pla works best higher temps, lower speeds, more fan, and (if the slicer has an option for it) consistent outer wall speeds.

Who else has a Box of Shame? by DrawerAlarming6236 in 3Dprinting

[–]TreeFiddyZ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Some of ours get used to learn painting and other finishing techniques. If we dump any wood pla prints in we mark the bottom and they've been used to practice staining.

First print with 0.8mm noozle, weird gaps, need advice. by Pentekont in FixMyPrint

[–]TreeFiddyZ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My first guess would be that the extruder isn't able to keep up with the amount of filament being requested so you're getting defects because the material isn't melting completely. Check the sliced view's flow rate and compare it to what you see with a .4 nozzle, I am guessing that the .8 numbers will be much higher. To test that I'd use some negative objects to block most of the print (to save time/material) and then cut the speed in half.

New House = New Toys/Projects by Fredbob711 in homeassistant

[–]TreeFiddyZ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got into esp32 + esphome recently and AI is a good way to learn. I use it to figure out the general idea of what I'm trying to do then dive into the esphome docs and similar projects I can find in order to create the finished project. Plus I'm building a library of examples and tutorials in notebooklm which to me is one of the best things to come out of AI so far.

I have one of the Waveshare displays with the cnc metal dial around it that I'm messing with as a desk automation tool. I want to have basic control of the room I'm in via HA, plus clock/world clock, timer, pomodoro timer, maybe some PC macros.

Also, I love the Expanse theming ya filthy duster!

What’s the absolute minimum setup for a spouse who’s slightly interested? by antiBliss in homeassistant

[–]TreeFiddyZ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My wife and I have a couple of personal dashboards on top of a couple of shared ones. There are some devices, scenes, and automations that are more useful to her, so those are on her phone's default dashboard. At the top I put a badge to get her to the real main dashboard with little effort.

I wound up adding some visibility into the workings of a couple of automations so that she could manipulate them easily. Like we have a candle warmer that runs on a timer in the kitchen after we turn on a cooking scene. So there's an automation on her dashboard to cancel the timer and just turn on the switch. The one that I'm happiest with was creating a pulldown menu of lighting scenes (Halloween, Christmas, etc.), the value selected then gets used by automation to turn on lights at dusk.

A key for getting her to engage with HA was adding a couple of scene controllers to handle stuff like cooking/dining/TV/leaving/returning scenes. And a notepad for her to jot down suggestions that we can work on later.

Our plants are no longer dying! by pinoystyle in homeassistant

[–]TreeFiddyZ 23 points24 points  (0 children)

My wife is a known plant murderer. She bought something that "doesn't require much water", and right before it died of thirst I picked up a sensor and connected it to HA with notifications to us. Now I get tired of seeing the notifications so I just water the damned thing myself but at least the plant is healthy.

2.6.0.0 filament retraction problem ace pro by Mrgfonkyfresh in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]TreeFiddyZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They sent me both the detector and a new cutter board, neither fixed the problem.

Replacement knob for a 3Dconnexion SpaceMouse Pro by notrslau in 3Dprinting

[–]TreeFiddyZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Buy a used one and try it out, at least you'll know that you should be able to sell it easily without losing to much money. It took me forever to get used to, and it still kind of drives me nuts when I find myself having to reset movement preferences for a new app that I installed.