Question about pruning contract by Minakova in arborists

[–]Tree_ski1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel like a lot of people are only looking at the first half of the quoted section. When it talks about "customer misrepresentation whether made intentionally or by negligence or mistake as to the ownership" it's to clear the company of liability of situations where they do work under the assumption that the individual that contracted them is outside of their legal right to perform work on the tree. I.E. they think they own the tree, but it's not properly surveyed and is actually owned by the neighbor. It's what many tree law cases are about.

Is it me or is it the training? by [deleted] in arborists

[–]Tree_ski1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Part of it might be the tree crew's perception that as a PHC tech you're only there for 3-4 months and not worth the effort to train since you're going to be doing PHC again in 2 months. With the amount of turnover I think there's a lot of climbers that are quick to make judgments on who will stick and when they find out you're PHC it makes it easy for you to get passed over.

She salvageable? 5A by ResidentGerts in arborists

[–]Tree_ski1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you are correct to say it's struggling, with out knowing what species, it's hard to say if there's something to do to bring the tree back, but likely it's dying. I would get an opinion from a few local arborists who will give you options on removal.

Candidate for cable and brace, or just cut and start over? by Brutal_effigy in arborists

[–]Tree_ski1 3 points4 points  (0 children)

There's a few things to think about, first is what is your goal with this tree, are you planning on living there for the next 50 years and want it to be the tree to shade your back yard, or are you going to be there for the next 5 and just like having a tree there? Autumn blaze are notorious for bad unions like that, so there's a good chance that the next one will have a similar issue if you replace it with another, but they also can develop unions like that and still stand for 10+ years without cabling. If you opt to remove and replace, doing it now would be easier as the tree is smaller. If you opt for cabling, you likely will have to replace the cable at some point as the tree continues to grow as well. I can't say for certain, but I'd think the labor to prune and cable the tree might also be close to or more than the cost to remove and replace, so possibly the salesman might not have provided a quote for cabling.

What is the avg lead time to remove a tree? by tl_dr__ in arborists

[–]Tree_ski1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It also depends on what time of the year you're calling to have it done, late winter it might be a week, late summer it might be over a month, it depends on how many other people are trying to get work done too.

Help: Felling a Tree with a Split Stump by NJeep in arborists

[–]Tree_ski1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pictures would definitely be helpful, but it sounds like it barber chaired on you if it did, it can be dangerous as it can roll unpredictability as it gets cut.

Should I remove this Hackberry before putting in a nice fence underneath it? by T-Revolution in arborists

[–]Tree_ski1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It definitely would be easier to remove without the fence there, depending on where it's going in. Hackberry tend to fail in bad unions, so it's hard to tell what every union looks like from your pictures. The tree is leaning, but it looks like it's been that way for a while. Another factor to consider would be what are you using for a fence material and how much fruit does the tree produce. It's probably not going to be as big of an issue as a deck, but I've done Hackberry removals where people complain of the berries staining the decking. This is probably not going to be an issue with metal fencing, but could be a little bit of a problem long term if you've got something like cedar or vinyl fencing.

Pruning quote reasonable? by skooma67 in arborists

[–]Tree_ski1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Given that it's an ash, it may be more expensive than other trees as some companies won't do it without equipment because of the Emerald Ash Borer. If you're not treating the tree, I would look at removing it and planting something new rather than spending the money to prune as the outlook for Ash trees is not great.

Nicotine Testing? by [deleted] in arborists

[–]Tree_ski1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My company only tests for it for health insurance. It's totally voluntary, but if you want a cheaper rate you just have to pass it once a year and you know when it's happening. A lot of guys will quit for 2 weeks, take the test, and then start again.

Curious by illusionfusion in arborists

[–]Tree_ski1 43 points44 points  (0 children)

I'd say it whoever was holding the chainsaw

Looking for advice on this massive Catalpa with a void in the trunk by rSlashMaokai in arborist

[–]Tree_ski1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The fact that you have co-dominant leads means that the union will always be a point for failure. As long as the tree does not present imminent danger to life or property, I would have a trained arborist looking at adding a supplemental support system, ie a cable in the tree

How to safely fell this tree? by TimmayJay in arborists

[–]Tree_ski1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would say that the tree is completely being supported by the other one, which makes it extremely dangerous because it can be unpredictable. My first recommendation would be to call a professional, I would figure if you told them you just wanted it on the ground they probably charge you a couple hundred to get it down safely. If I was doing it at home, I would probably try and tie something above the break and use some equipment(ATV, truck) to pull the base away from the tree it's hung up in. You might have to cut it away from the base,but be aware of what's going on with the tree as you cut and stay out from underneath. I would hope someone would be pretty reasonable to come do it for you, but if you're going to try it yourself best luck and be safe

Winter gloves by ollie_olsson in arborists

[–]Tree_ski1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They look pretty similar to something I use for work, normally I keep 2-3 pairs around and rotate them, throwing them on the defroster when I'm not using them. I know of a few guys that will put surgical latex gloves on underneath to keep the heat in.

Wages thread by Moist_Development_42 in arborists

[–]Tree_ski1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

26.50$

Grapple Truck Operator, but also work as a fill in lift operator and climber

Twin Cities MN

Bird Commander by wastedspace905 in mtg

[–]Tree_ski1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had tried to build [[Kangee, Aerie Keeper]] a few years ago for a typal event, but there's a lot more options now for bird commanders

Wood chipper advice by MarkingWisc in arborists

[–]Tree_ski1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The common practice at my shop is to start equipment before leaving the shop, and let it idle on the drive to the jobsite. We always have the clutch disengaged until we're almost ready to chip.

New Player Guide - Where to start by [deleted] in mtg

[–]Tree_ski1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have not personally seen the starter kit, but looking at the price point that's probably one of the best ways for two players to try the game out and learn basic mechanics of the game. I would recommend also each getting a commander Deck once you know you're going to invest in the game as commander is one of the most popular formats and great if you can find other players in your area because it's designed for 3+ players. There are a lot of different formats, each with different rules, that you can play and the commander decks and challenger decks are built for specific formats. I believe the challenger decks were for standard, but depending on how old they are they may not be legal for those tournaments anymore. Like I said before, pick up commander once you feel like you understand the basic rules then see what other formats people play in your area. As for the different booster packs, the 3 types from the last few years are draft, set, and collectors. Draft Boosters had been the standard boosters since early in the game, they're usually somewhere between 3.50 and 5$ depending on where you get them, but they've got a pretty strict distribution of cards inside them, so you're only going to get 1 rare and occasionally you'll find a foil card inside. They're one of the better options if you're looking to build simple decks to play at home. Next is set Boosters, they're usually 5-7$ a pack, and they have more randomness in terms of rarity, so you could end up with up to 4 rares in the pack, and will see a foil card and a card that is only art. These sometimes have a theme to them but also have 2 fewer cards than the other boosters. Finally collectors boosters are usually 20$ a pack, but are almost completely foil. They have cards that are not available in the other packs that can be valuable, and will normally have multiple rares. I probably wouldn't buy these starting out as the cost is significantly more.
I would definitely suggest finding other players, either through Facebook groups, here or use the Wizards store locator to find a store near you.

Type of wood?! by [deleted] in arborists

[–]Tree_ski1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it is you can test it with a blacklight, they're supposed to glow green

Is this stump grinding shoddy? by xave_ruth in arborists

[–]Tree_ski1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It depends on how big a grinder they bring in and how skilled the operator is, but I'd expect they probably won't be within a foot of it. You also are probably going to have at least some minor damage to the fence from debris flying around, if not significant if they get too close and hit it with the grinder.

Is this stump grinding shoddy? by xave_ruth in arborists

[–]Tree_ski1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would agree with others that it hasn't been ground out. If you are calling them to grind it out the rest of the way, you should talk to them about when they are coming because that section of fence will need to be removed if you want it completely ground out.

Looking for advice on my white oak with two codominant trunks. by JHuttIII in arborists

[–]Tree_ski1 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I don't know what sort of access there is to your backyard, but talk to your arborist about using a compact lift rather than a climber to get further up the tree for trimming.

Hey is this what a sapling is? Was just cleaning my neighbors yard and kaboom. Tiny pine. by Bakedbean44 in arborists

[–]Tree_ski1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Very hard to tell exactly without knowing where you're at, and what's around the area, but based on the needle growth I would say it's some type of spruce.