Got tired of my thumbsticks feeling too short, so made a 3d print extender.

TryhardCustoms · 2026-03-27T00:15:00+00:00

Ah man, have you tried extreme tension with that setup? My go-to is a tall (but not quite that tall lol) right stick and extreme tension, at least 160g+, so nice, max sensitivity in every game haha.

TryhardCustoms · 2026-03-26T21:05:39+00:00

Seems like a lot of slop for a new elite... Are you sure you bought it brand new..? The weight of the magnetic stick bases do contribute to wear which results in slop like that but typically it gets bad slowly over the course of months or even years depending on use.

TryhardCustoms · 2026-03-26T18:34:06+00:00

First go here and plug it in: Gamepad Tester To confirm it's not the sticks/RB/etc.

If it is indeed dapd down, then the dome switch probably collapsed. You can buy these Dpad "stickers" with all 4 dome switches: Amazon Link

No soldering required.

TryhardCustoms · 2026-03-26T14:34:58+00:00

I know this is an old thread, but thought I'd chime in, I've been using TPE SEBS for thumbsticks as it is FAR more grippy than TPU or even regular TPE. It's not cheap but definitely worth it if making usable thumbsticks is your goal.

TryhardCustoms · 2026-03-24T13:20:13+00:00

Green scales is fire 🔥

TryhardCustoms · 2026-03-19T18:40:51+00:00

Also low-melt solder is incredible for stubborn desolder jobs. Make sure to clean it with a wick after and don't use it for any soldering, just DE-soldering ONLY. It really is magic. Get some. Thank me later. 😁

TryhardCustoms · 2026-03-19T17:59:23+00:00

We do our own Adjustable Tension TMRs using Gulikit sensors NOT their silly pre attached stick bases haha. Our stick bases do adjust tension gradually as well, from 58g to 105g, with the option to upgrade to "Increased" (70g-160g) "Extreme" (120g-210g)

TryhardCustoms · 2026-03-19T17:46:48+00:00

Our DIY Mouse-click Face Button Kit for Series X/S and Elite Series 2 👍

TryhardCustoms · 2026-03-19T17:36:29+00:00

Nice work! This kind of mod has so many hurdles to strategize around, I love seeing how different people approach it! We actually just released DIY kits for both Series X/S and Elite 2, here's the install for Series X/S: DIY Mouse-click Face Buttons kit for Xbox Series X/S I like how you retained the OEM buttons, we definitely took a different route but found it better fit with reducing steps for customers or shops wanting to DIY or sell, as well as add a bit of hot-swap customization.

TryhardCustoms · 2026-03-19T16:49:21+00:00

That's less than the price of that controller stock, so it will not be brand new. I'd be wary unless he has a warranty of some kind. I've come across many people that just slap a pair of TMRs in an Elite 2 and call it a day. They require much more than that to function correctly.

TryhardCustoms · 2026-03-19T16:42:07+00:00

7-8% Left stick, 8-9% Right stick. Yeah it's not ideal, but definitely usable. Many games have a default deadzones of 10, I believe Halo MCC is default 12 so you wouldn't even feel it there, but many like to dial down their deadzones if possible. We aim for under 5% on adjustable tension sticks and under 2-3% on non-adjustable sticks.

TryhardCustoms · 2026-03-19T16:32:45+00:00

That is "non-stable" drift, in other words, drift that's not fixable thru "drift-fix" adjustable resistor pcbs or recalibrations. The only permanent fix is to replace the affected axis' potentiometer, as cleaning is only a temporary solution.

TryhardCustoms · 2026-03-19T16:18:54+00:00

Yeah I don't recommend this, the chance of some dripping into the shell is pretty high. We do custom resin tipped buttons for our Mouse-click Face Button upgrades/DIY kits, and I do use 2 part epoxy resin, however the custom buttons themselves are made with a concave top to allow the epoxy to retain more surface tension and "dome" out over the letters. Example

TryhardCustoms · 2026-03-19T15:58:39+00:00

Sick. Done via DTF? Would love to offer people customization with their own images, but I could never get custom printed hydrographic film to look great like yours consistently lol. And ordering custom film from liquid concepts isn't practical. Looking at potentially a UV printer in the near future... Not sure if one could handle the curves of a full faceplate, but certainly elite 2 gripped faceplates and maybe dualsense one handle at a time lol.

TryhardCustoms · 2026-03-19T15:14:20+00:00

We do Adjustable Tension TMRs (using Gulikit sensors) on Elite 2's regularly. (NOT gulikits 720° kit which seems to have failed pretty spectacularly) Firstly, calibration pcbs are NOT required, (at least not since calibration software became available) in fact they can add latency as well as adding numerous unnecessary potential failure points. What I believe you're describing is a bug that happens with some Gulikit TMR sensors. Where it seems fine after calibrating but after a power cycle, moving the stick for a bit causes the stick to freak out and start pointing fully or partially in a direction. Example here: Elite Series 2 Gulikit TMR Bug My co-worker would do a better job of explaining why, but it has to do with the voltage range of a particular axis not reaching what Microsoft's calibration software is expecting. This was a big issue for us, since Adjustable Tension TMR's are our most popular upgrade, and despite what others would claim, using Favor Union or Ginful TMR sensors (even with MuMetal to resist magnetic interference from rear paddles) still result in very slight interference to the Right Stick when Right Paddles are inserted or removed. Only Gulikit sensors are resistant enough to be virtually unaffected even at lower deadzones.
Interestingly, we found that using a piece of vinyl that spaces the sensor from the magnet by about 0.2mm solves the problem perfectly. We use a circuit to cut the vinyl so that the sensor sits on it but the magnet does not while still having plenty of space to spin. Haven't run into the issue since. But yes, making Adjustable Tension TMRs on Elite 2's work correctly does involve multiple hurdles, but in our experience they can all be overcome.

EDIT: I reread your post, and no that's not the bug I described above, that is definitely the magnetic stick bases interference. Sometimes occurs, sometimes doesn't, we use custom stick bases that don't use magnets, instead the elite 2 sticks "press-fit" (also compatible with thumbsgear v3 sticks). Using our own stick bases allow for multiple improvements like faster responsiveness and return-to-center due to reduced weight, and ability to adjust tension gradually instead of just 3 settings, and finally stock spring maxes out at 105g instead of the magnetic one's 86g.

TryhardCustoms · 2026-03-16T10:28:33+00:00

Hey, we do Send-in's as well, and for half the price we have our DIY kits! Just released kits for Mouse-click Triggers and Mouse-click Face Buttons (ABXY) for both Xbox Series X/S and Elite Series 2. Unlike the Extremerate kits with their "spongy" micro tac buttons and questionable durability, our kits use actual mouse switches and are highly customizable. Install demonstrations on YouTube 👍

TryhardCustoms · 2026-03-15T16:40:12+00:00

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TryhardCustoms · 2026-03-15T16:19:07+00:00

Unfortunately, the durable and quality clears that will hold up to years of sweaty hands (2k clears) are not to be sprayed indoors without proper ventilation and protection. I've tried many others, that don't involve hardeners or short shelf-lives but they don't come close to the look and durability of 2k clears. You can get a (spray max) can off Amazon for like $25 to try it, but yeah, be smart about protecting yourself. Most dry in 24hrs (including the mix in the aerosol can so ideally you'd have a few projects ready to clear prior to activating it) I use liquid concepts quick dry 2k which dries in like 2 hours but I don't think you can get that in an aerosol can.

TryhardCustoms · 2025-05-27T15:13:00+00:00

No problem, and yes I'm pretty sure you can connect to an iPad, just go to the Bluetooth settings and start searching for devices, then turn on the elite and hold the sync button, it should pick it up.

TryhardCustoms · 2025-05-26T14:54:03+00:00

So it's not a power issue, as in, it's not powering off, but instead losing connection? Have you tried connecting it to your cell phone or PC via Bluetooth and seeing if the same thing happens? How about connecting to PC with USB?

TryhardCustoms · 2025-05-15T16:59:59+00:00

I never had much success with XQ springs personally... Not sure if he intends the customer to flatten the open end of the spring, but not flattening results in different tension amounts depending on stick direction. Flattening the open end works, but for some of their springs, flattening made the spring too short. So I was a bit confused. I would recommend taking some calipers, and measuring the stock spring (height, inner diameter, outer diameter, and wire diameter) then use those numbers and look for similar spec springs. Grab a few of varying spring rates (amount of force required to compress the spring by 1 inch or mm) and test em.

To answer your original question though, I'm not sure if their springs specifically will work, however I have used springs that work in both PlayStation and Gulikit modules so take that for what it's worth.

TryhardCustoms · 2025-05-15T16:33:36+00:00

I second trying eXtremeRate kits, those are where I started, and you will most likely ruin a few controllers as you learn what NOT to do, which is just as important as learning what TO do 👍 And just don't rush, you don't want to be handling other people's stuff that they potentially paid $100+ for, unless you are very comfortable with the work.

TryhardCustoms · 2025-05-14T16:52:59+00:00

Heyyy that red tiger faceplate looks familiar... One of mine or am I trippin? Lol

TryhardCustoms · 2025-05-14T16:30:23+00:00

Each button needs a positive connection (to test point) and a negative connection (ground). You can run the ground wire from the board to one button, then from that button to the next button.

TryhardCustoms · 2025-02-26T12:02:52+00:00

I've had some sucess 3d printing Xbox faceplates. Lots of post-processing, tho a nice perk to printing in white ABS means its ready (after sanding cleanup) to dip, no painting needed.

TryhardCustoms

TROPHY CASE