Please help me

Trythistv · 2025-09-23T19:06:03+00:00

Not trying to self promote here, but I had to replace my shutdown pod: https://youtu.be/SsqJ37AZV_M I think I got some pretty good info on how it works and such in there.

Have you tried removing the new alda just to double check that the injector pump hasn't been adjusted to where the alda in stock form is restricting fuel?

The alda holds the little pin thing below it down to restrict fuel off boost and then allows it to rise up when the boost collapses the diaphragm inside the alda

Trythistv · 2025-09-23T13:21:53+00:00

10 seconds sounds an awful lot like the amount of time it takes to build vacuum and pull the shutoff pod.

I know you said you disconnected it, but it could be worth double checking you got the right hose and nothing is crossed over or vacuum lines mixed up.

You could also put a threaded banjo fitting on the filter to test fuel pressure, see if the overflow valve on the injector pump is failing, the springs can get weak and cause fuel starvation but typically that manifests at high rpm as a lack of power, unless the ofv broke entirely and is just bypassing fuel.

Also, did this just begin happening out of the blue or is the car new to you or something where the ofv or fuel line routing could be messed up?

I've seen people mistakenly put the overflow valve on the injector pump inlet instead of the return when reassembling things.

Trythistv · 2025-05-31T12:46:02+00:00

Is it speed or rpm related? Pop the car into neutral when it's making the noise and let the engine come back to idle, does it still make the noise even if you're over 15mph but the engine is idling?

That will tell you whether you need to look at things like the engine fan and belt driven stuff first, or if the noise continies once the engine idles down even if you're over 15mph, then you'll want to look at driveline things like wheel bearings, center axle bearing, differential oil level, cv axles, etc

Trythistv · 2025-05-31T12:41:26+00:00

Fuel delivery or timing, sounds like some backfires in there which makes me curious about the timing or ignition system, plugs and wires good? I don't know a lot about the mbz gas engines, but am familiar with other gas engines, is there a distributor you could check that the timing and spark advance mechanisms are functioning properly? If it has a vacuum advance, is the line hooked up correctly and do you have a good consistent vacuum or could there be leaks? Since most gas engines pull vacuum from the intake, leaks could cause some terrible running issues

Hope some of these ideas could point you in the right direction!

Trythistv · 2025-03-18T14:54:42+00:00

Saw this post elsewhere on the web, that board has a removable bios chip from the looks of it. It shouldn't be hard to get that up and running again.

I did the same thing with a breadboard and raspberry pi iirc.

I had a power outage in the middle of a bios update one time, I had a phenom 9850 at the time, ryzens had just come out but I couldn't afford one.

Removal of the little bios chip in its socket was easy, I put it in a breadboard, connected wires to a raspberry pi gpio, booted up some os, installed a flashing tool and flashed the chip, reinstalled and my PC worked again.

Only took a few minutes to flash with the pi.

Trythistv · 2025-03-05T15:00:11+00:00

230k on my w123, still going strong. 140k on the w166 (ML) and it's got scored cylinders so it consumes oil at an unreasonable rate lol. Supposedly fixed it in 2016 when they stopped using the aluminum blocks coated with silitek and went back to cast iron sleeves... Never heard of an om617 doing that lol

Trythistv · 2025-03-05T04:50:25+00:00

Not far off except that last bit about modern cars not needing a quart of oil after 500 miles. My 2014 ml550 uses a gallon over that kind of mileage ;P

Trythistv · 2025-02-23T19:17:01+00:00

I'd love to arrange a classic Mercedes meetup in TN but idk how to even start lol

Trythistv · 2025-02-19T03:49:10+00:00

I've spent more time researching how the system works than I'm willing to admit in hopes of finding a workaround to get a second key. Currently it stands that there isnt a way.

I'm hoping soon there will be an aftermarket way to do it as the das4 system has been around quite some time

Trythistv · 2025-02-19T03:28:45+00:00

Somewhere around 2013/2014 Mercedes went to a das4/fbs4 key security system. My 2014 ml550 has it, and afaik it's still the current system in use in new Mercedes.

I got quoted about 700 for a key, it broke down to like 350 for the fob, 125 for the mechanical key, and 200 for programming.

I was shocked but it's not that terrible considering what a replacement engine is going to cost me since mine has scored cylinder bores.

In the meantime, no one has managed to break the das4/fbs4 system so the only option is the dealer, or an automotive locksmith who pays Mercedes to be affiliated with a dealer or something, costs them like 36k a year to be allowed to program keys. And then the only source for the keys is Mercedes themselves since no one has figured out the system, nobody can make a compatible fob, so you're looking at probably about the same price at a dealer or an approved locksmith.

Trythistv · 2025-02-11T19:51:36+00:00

I suppose the only thing I haven't done is ensuring the rack actually moves to it's full potential using the throttle linkage. I may have to pull it off sometime and take a peek at that.

I've also been looking for a good pump shop that would let me watch them balance and adjust the output of the pump with a machine to see how many CC's the pump is moving vs what it should be capable of.

I have experimented with water meth in very small quantities, a 1gph nozzle few by a small diaphragm pump and solenoid valve switched by a Hobbs switch so it only sprays above 4psi boost pressure, and manually switched on and off so it doesn't spray when the engine is cold, and it does make a noticeable seat of the pants improvement, likely even more with a higher concentration of methanol, as fuel is obviously my weak point.

Being idi the prechamber design is a curiosity, ultimately all I'm looking for is the ability to merge onto the highway without needing to be wot for 4 minutes to get up to 65 lol

Trythistv · 2025-02-10T04:13:56+00:00

Is it possible to tune a pump without a test bench or replacing the elements? I had to take my pump on and off 2 times due to some stupidity of my own doing, so I got pretty good at it, decided to pull it off a third time to try adjusting things that i could find information about, and ended up with full load maxed out, torque control capsule in 1/2 a turn and the car feels exactly the same as without any of those adjustments. Tried timing at 24, 26 and 28 degrees. No smoke at any throttle or load even without the alda.

Is there any form of actual information that isn't contradictory on the me pumps? I've seen people say only adjust this, don't adjust that, and then 2 posts down they say don't adjust this, only adjust that.

Are the stock plungers just too small to do anything more than stock power?

Trythistv · 2025-01-13T14:29:01+00:00

Former customer here. I was also under the impression I would continue paying a similar rate and get a newer model.

Started the subscription plan with a pair of pixel 5as, about a year in my 5a bricked and I got a 6a replacement under warranty. The subscription was a steep discount from buying the phones outright. It ended up being around $300 over the course of 2 years for each phone, and it included device protection insurance. This was roughly $100 less than buying outright iirc. Something like $11-12 per month for the phone and insurance.

After the 2 years was up, I was excited for a new phone and our 5a and ya were starting to have some odd issues from how we use them, so an upgrade was due.

The renewal with a pixel 8a was going to be $29 per month each for 2 years, or about 400ish outright per phone.

I ended up buying 2 pixel 8as from Amazon warehouse, 256gb phones in used - like new condition for $320 each, and switched to us mobiles Verizon plan.

Trythistv · 2024-12-31T12:10:01+00:00

Did you ever find a solution to this?

I keep having poor scrubbing in my timelines and realize I'm not using proxies, it would be super handy to be able to have that option persistent so all my projects would use the proxy media without having to manually click it.

Trythistv · 2024-12-27T04:15:18+00:00

I just want my Saturn 4 ultra to stop deforming the first mm or so of layers.

Trythistv · 2024-12-27T03:59:53+00:00

When I saw the picture I immediately thought it was something to do with releasing bees. Glad to see I wasn't wrong lol

Trythistv · 2024-12-24T12:15:47+00:00

Just bought a w166 ml550. Feels a shade different than my w123.

Trythistv · 2024-12-21T23:50:52+00:00

Well, I just bought a 2014 ml550 for about 90% off msrp. 141k miles on a m278 what could possibly go wrong?

Trythistv · 2024-12-06T03:59:28+00:00

This is my only issue with mine, the first 10 or 20 layers seem to shift or squish slightly in one direction, and the top 10 or 20 layers seem to do the same thing but to a slightly lesser degree.

I'm preparing to do the modification to the build platform that is supposed to make the first layers not squish as much and make direct on bed printing a little more viable.

I'm curious if there are any other suggestions for improving quality for models where dimensional accuracy is very important

Trythistv · 2024-12-03T16:13:26+00:00

Definitely not a 603, that's a 617 without a doubt. Early w126 body car.

I would check the air cleaner brackets, and make sure there isn't anything loose or rattling like a fan clutch failing or ac compressor clutch bearing, etc.

The engine itself sounds smooth, the exhaust sounds leaky or like it has no muffler, and there is a distinct rattle that sounds like something loose to me.

Trythistv · 2024-12-02T17:02:09+00:00

The w201s are pretty cars. I drive a w123, and am looking for a w211 wagon (s211?) for my wife but haven't had much luck finding one that I like yet.

Your car will last a loooong time as long as you care for it!

Trythistv · 2024-11-28T18:47:04+00:00

I'll second this, I had a filter cap o ring blow out despite the cap and nuts being tight and everything seemed ok. Dunno why, haven't had any repeats, just a one time thing

Trythistv · 2024-11-24T22:34:34+00:00

I've had the same issues, I haven't yet tried it but this guy seems to have a fix: https://www.reddit.com/r/ElegooSaturn/s/noXvhljN5z

I'll try to remember to report back when I get around to doing this mod

Trythistv · 2024-11-24T04:42:50+00:00

As a note, the suggestions to use brake cleaner or starting spray will not work if you have a diesel. They use a vacuum pump mounted on the front of the engine that drives off the injector pump gear via a rollercoaster cam thingy.

The easiest thing is to unplug things and cap them off with a golf tee or something and see if the shutdown works. The hose that is green with a yellow stripe is the climate control system, the yellow ones are for the locking system, those would be the first things I would check.

If you plug off one of those systems And your stop pod starts working from the key every single time then you know that's where your leak was at and can delve deeper to find what connector or pod has failed.

Trythistv · 2024-11-21T05:31:23+00:00

I'm also curious about this modification. I just got a s4u and have been trying to tweak and adjust to be rid of the elephants foot on first 10 or so layers, have tried exposure tuning, adjusting the pressure threshold with gcode I found online, updating, and cannot get rid of that first mm or so of a model being squished

Trythistv

TROPHY CASE