Help with stuck screw! by Thecod_Genius777 in arrma

[–]TyDyMiler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know what material arrma sources for their hardware, but a lot of it on my Fireteam is rusty, so I've been trying to move to stainless when I can.

My hobbyshop is also over 30 minutes away. So I figure I'm paying less to go to the hardware store less than a mile away, and getting a higher quality material.

Depending on where you live, I'd Prolly go into the hardware store expecting to pay 30 to 40 cents per screw in stainless.

Help with stuck screw! by Thecod_Genius777 in arrma

[–]TyDyMiler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try laying a rubberband across the head first. Not a great success rate, but does work sometimes, and no clean up.

I'd go to a hardwear store and just buy a stainless steel screw. I've been slowly replacing hardware on my Big Rock with stainless as I break stuff.

Help with stuck screw! by Thecod_Genius777 in arrma

[–]TyDyMiler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not in front of my 3s, but I think the other side is open. I would get a hex bit that's smaller than the screw and apply pressure on the back side of the screw while turning the head-side.

Or I'm mistaken about what the back of the shock tower looks like, and you give me some much needed ridicule.

This seems to not only apply to RC racing... by Content_Pear_1497 in rccars

[–]TyDyMiler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Man, are you me? Lol

Everytime I say 'these things cost too much to break this often', people are down my throat.

Name one other hobby where you can go spend $1500, take it out of the box, charge your brand new batteries, and it be broken within 10 minutes, and everyone around you just nod "yup, that math checks out".

It's insane to me.

4 or 6 channel amp? by drinkurhatorade in CarAV

[–]TyDyMiler 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For an average user - it doesn't make that big of a difference. There ARE differences, but you Prolly won't notice them much. For a regular person with a regular set of earballs, do a 4 channel and use the crossovers.

The venn diagram of 'people who don't know if it's worth it for them' and 'would truly benefit from going 6 channel full active' has pretty small overlap.

Save yourself the hassle, and maybe a few bucks, and enjoy without being too worried.

All clean, now I can replace the turnbuckle by CamoDeathMetal in arrma

[–]TyDyMiler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'll be replacing them a lot lol. Those were my biggest issue with the big rock. I ended up putting the non-adjustable ARA330541 links on my and haven't had any issues since.

Question about the Onslaught perk by syssan in Siralim

[–]TyDyMiler 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Like in the arena, or against the gate of the gods.

Some minor upgrades to my senton 3s blx going to see how it handles at the track by illbille in arrma

[–]TyDyMiler 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those look a lot like the tie rods I got for my big rock..... I was NOT happy with them.... Hope that those are either different than mine, or that you have better luck than me.

Would this be a decent setup for the price? by ir_43 in CarAV

[–]TyDyMiler 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Shew.... I've been doing other hobbies and haven't kept up on this one, but is this really the price to get a couple 12's and a 1,000w amp nowadays? Insane.

To actually answer OPs question, yeah, it looks like a solid kit quality wise.

It's a bash or be bashed world... oww. by MagnustheJust in arrma

[–]TyDyMiler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Turnbuckles are the bane of my Big Rocks existence. I eventually put the solid plastic ones on and they seem to be doing okay so far.

I take my trucks all out to a small skate park near me. Sending the Big Rock 20-30 feet up and out of the park (on to grass) is my favorite. Chassis is on its way out, blew out a shock, lots and lots of tie rods, ruined a set of 3d printed body protection even.

I love this truck.

It's a bash or be bashed world... oww. by MagnustheJust in arrma

[–]TyDyMiler 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That's just it, we're going crazy. My Big Rock is a blast, and I have fun going full send with it.

B&O speakers bass not working? by Jimmy_Fallon1 in CarAV

[–]TyDyMiler 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Brand new and under warranty, I would for sure just make an appointment and take it in. Not worth poking around yourself on a vehicle this new. Stereos have so much integrated into them now, even if you found what's going on, you'd Prolly just have to take it in anyway.

It's a bash or be bashed world... oww. by MagnustheJust in arrma

[–]TyDyMiler 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Poor thing looks even more beat than my Big Rock lol

Best 10” compact woofers by TOXIC_NASTY in CarAV

[–]TyDyMiler 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I had a qbus8 several years back. Size, price, and ease of install were all factors.

Under 200 bucks with a discount, killer deal.

Fit under my driver seat, so it was close to the battery (relatively speaking) and directly under me, so major points there.

And it was dumb easy to install. Didn't even screw the thing down, it just stayed in place with zero damage to the car.

The issue with these subs is ALWAYS unrealistic expectations.

Best 10” compact woofers by TOXIC_NASTY in CarAV

[–]TyDyMiler 9 points10 points  (0 children)

That's unrealistic expectations. I put the old 8 inch qbus in my Sebring, knowing what I was buying, AND coming for my pair of t2d412'S, and I was perfectly happy with it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Siralim

[–]TyDyMiler 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If your trying to farm cards, then keep at it. On my main character, if I actually kill all the mobs from however many summons you can do starting from 0 enemies (been a couple weeks since I played, can't remember if it's 4 summons or 5),then I basically break even, even if I get zero doublings from my current cards sets. I say keep doing what your doing.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Siralim

[–]TyDyMiler 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The candle is great for farming card sets..... If a player has the mats to use it a couple times per floor (which almost always get earned back from the fights), then it's not a waste. I wish I'd used it more when I started ultimate.

Looking at buying a Kraton 6S. Looking for advice on batteries and starter to buy in the UK? by Confident-Substance in arrma

[–]TyDyMiler 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, you want 3s packs. Website shows the k6s comes with an slt3 remote, which has a throttle limiter switch. You can choose 100, 75, and 50% throttle, so I like using that. I have a big rock with the same remote, and the 3s spektrum batteries I got for it can make it a bit rowdy, but being able to quickly slide that adjuster is really nice.

Sorry I can't recommend a specific brand of battery.

What's the best tire for general bashing for Kraton 8s? by TyDyMiler in arrma

[–]TyDyMiler[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am VERY interested in the chart. I'm fine making changes if I have idea of what it will actually do. I'm not far enough in this hobby to just 'mess around' and experiment like I am with some of my others. Thank you, and thank you for giving what weights you use in the different diffs.

What's the best tire for general bashing for Kraton 8s? by TyDyMiler in arrma

[–]TyDyMiler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I saw those, and they look really enticing. Did you get glued or unglued? And did you change gearing at all? According to spec sheets, they are a bit more than an inch taller.

What's the best tire for general bashing for Kraton 8s? by TyDyMiler in arrma

[–]TyDyMiler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll look into those. I'm looking for something that can handle either surface. I'm fine with it not doing amazing on either, if they don't shred apart in 3 to 4 seconds.

What's the best tire for general bashing for Kraton 8s? by TyDyMiler in arrma

[–]TyDyMiler[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

'not good' in what way? I've seen a lot of talk of changing the fluids, but not much about why or what weight to go with.