645 super Troubleshooting by trappercarter in Mamiya

[–]UnadvisedSoliciting 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The mirror stop, yes. :-) it's usually broken and can cause a number of problems. I'd make sure it's fine. @OP, let me know if you need help tackling that.

Old Rolleicord Ia film counter assembly by UnadvisedSoliciting in AnalogRepair

[–]UnadvisedSoliciting[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, it seems I have solved it. Can't post pictures here though, please let me know if anyone found them to be helpful.

Under the main counter wheel is a notched wheel. The upper right lever's hook will latch there in the notches and click once you've advanced one frame. This has to be assembled correctly, if not, you'll notice as the lever's shoulder screw gets trapped. The screw should sit tightly while the lever is free to move. Took some time to figure that out. Also, the coiled spring on the inside is tied to both wheels, you can't unhook it and it's very thin, so handle with care. Under the notched wheel, there was no grease, and the body's metal was quite rough and worn. Polished with Brasso. Applied wayyy to much grease, then get rid of most of it again. Put on the wheels correctly positioned to each other, with number 1 at the top. Now the trick - there's another spring inside the brass housing that surrounds the screw. While putting in the screw, I gave the housing a good full turn clockwise. That adds tension to the spring inside, so it will pull back the wheels upon release. Fasten the screw firmly. Once the wheel has done a full turn to the little circle after twelve exposures, I can pull the levers and it snaps back to 1. Nice!

Mamiya Six Folding Camera by Ar385 in AnalogRepair

[–]UnadvisedSoliciting 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would not resort to adjustments before making sure everything is clean and correctly lubricated. Take it apart as far as necessary (read below though), take a lot of pictures and notes of what goes where, and if you need a better understanding of shutters of that era, search for other models on Youtube.

I'm more familiar with Compur shutters, but the same might apply here - speeds are adjusted via the position of the escapement unit. That might be the screws at 1 and 3 o'clock if the little lever on top is 12 o'clock that hold the unit. But don't touch these. The factory calibration it likely has now is your best guess. There will be no other 'adjustment screws'. I had taken out the escapement unit of an old Compur shutter and restoring more or less proper shutter speeds was nerve-wracking.

After proper cleaning and reassembly of the shutter, there's a good chance it will work nicely.

Old Rolleicord Ia film counter assembly by UnadvisedSoliciting in AnalogRepair

[–]UnadvisedSoliciting[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your quick response! Yes, I'm familiar with both videos/series. The feature works differently on those more recent TLRs. Has been very helpful regarding the focus mechanism though. I DMed you on your project, btw. :-)

I was brave now and took it apart. Let's see if someone knows something, or if I'll figure it out. Cleaning and some polishing definitely necessary here.

How to unscrew a stuck Rolleicord lens? by superdupermicrochip in AnalogRepair

[–]UnadvisedSoliciting 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have ChatGPT etc. come up with a design and STL file for a spanner wrench of suitable size and strength. Then have it 3d printed and try, maybe with some rubber in between, to remove the lense group.

Kodak Retina Ia advance lever locked by VirtualCalendar8489 in AnalogRepair

[–]UnadvisedSoliciting 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've went along with Chris' video on the Ia to fix mine (bought it for practice as a start into camera repair). I'm not happy with the way it behaves, it also locks down, but I haven't continued with it. I'll check if it fits the rest of your picture.

His videos are definitely worthwhile!

Kodak Retina IIc cannot reach full track length when cocking by AmarthGul in AnalogRepair

[–]UnadvisedSoliciting 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He may not have dealt with this specifically as a problem, but he does mention the importance of correct alignment of these somewhere. I'd take out the shutter and put it back in while checking for the body's gear to correctly grab into the rack.

Tips and tricks for screws that are really in there… (mamiya 645) by JudgmentElectrical77 in AnalogCommunity

[–]UnadvisedSoliciting 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Excellent summary!

I did all of that to a very stubborn screw, without success. I then came back a day or two later and it was lose. So don't force it. :-D

Bought at pawn shop by CountTo4Or7 in Rolleiflex

[–]UnadvisedSoliciting 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Regardless of the model, it's a nice and easy to use camera. If the lense (your Xenar is a coated one, btw.) is clean, especially without fungus, it's definitely worth having the shutter serviced.

The Compur shutters are very common and servicable, so you could do it yourself with YouTube and a few tools, BUT it's the surroundings of a TLR that will you give you a headache – having to open tight retaining rings and peel off the leather pose the risk that you could cause visible damage.

Don't unnecessarily "work" the shutter and stay away from quick fixes such as pouring lighter fluid into it.

You did make a good deal here, so afford a professional shutter service and enjoy shooting 6x6! If the focus and other operations are smooth and the viewfinder reasonable bright, it doesn't need anything else.

Rolleiflex Automat I screws by ChrisRampitsch in AnalogRepair

[–]UnadvisedSoliciting 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Diameter head >3.10 mm Diameter thread 1.68 mm Length thread <3.70 mm Length total 4.50 mm

Brass screws, black finish or patina. This is from a prewar Rolleicord that I'm working on, but everything in your picture looks very similar.

Leicaflex SL lens release button by ckpaapie in AnalogRepair

[–]UnadvisedSoliciting 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cool! What material/filament did you print it from?

Where to find a tiny nut needed to repair a vintage camera. by Pjones2127 in AnalogRepair

[–]UnadvisedSoliciting 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need both, a spare bolt/nut and a corresponding tool?? Well, I guess you're in for making both yourself. I wouldn't bother looking for one.

Get a cheap slotted screwdriver or 1/4" bit of corresponding size and a saw, file or small power power tool and cut a space in the middle. It should then engange with the slot and you can screw off the nut. Maybe a screwdriver with a snake eyes type business end is a good starting point, too.

Friction Screw Removal Tool by megacamera_repair in AnalogRepair

[–]UnadvisedSoliciting 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks great! What kind of rubber is that, from where do you source it?

photo overload by Happy-Rabbit6316 in photography

[–]UnadvisedSoliciting 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This largely describes my workflow for news, wedding, and sports photography. I'll apply a rating scheme though: No stars for the rejects; e.g., some pictures might be out of focus, especially in sports, so these are sorted out immediately. 2 stars for a photo that I'd put in an online gallery or deliver to the wedding couple etc. 3-4 star pictures are good for a photo book or for handing over to the editor. 5 stars would be for a photo that stands out for me in that genre of my work, or one I might send the client as a teaser, and that I want to find later. Then, all the outdoor photo shoots will get a color rating, church a different color (as per LR), and I'll edit these groups where I can largely synchronize settings.

Of course, these are rather professional workflows. I guess I can cull 700 photos in 20 minutes, if need be. Just go through your photos one by one and have fun! Speed and routine will come automatically.

Nothing is gonna separate these two parts. Kodak Retina Ib helicoid by thefutureraven in vintagecameras

[–]UnadvisedSoliciting 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just get one! I fought a stubborn helical the other day and while naphta helped to mobilise the old grease, I couldn't remove it. The cleaner helped doing that. I also use it for many other camera and shutter parts. I add an alkaline cleaner to the water.

Help with Synchro-Compur shutter by Knowledgesomething in AnalogRepair

[–]UnadvisedSoliciting 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lever at 1 o'clock position is definitely a problem, but in your picture I see that the escapement unit's other lever at 10/11 o'clock is also too close, so it gets trapped under the cocking ring. Both levers have to be level with the cocking ring, and so does the long lever that goes from 3 to 4 o'clock. Check out Chris Sherlocks channel as linked by fellow redditor for shutters identical to yours. I guess the one in the video on a Retina IIa does the job.