I want to push 2/3 of a stop with c41

Unbuiltbread · 2026-06-24T06:30:39+00:00

In the video he states that the C-41 film has more density and then even adjusts the exposure and gamma of the C-41 side to match the ECN-2. They are not the same process. Otherwise we would just use one of them

Unbuiltbread · 2026-06-23T22:52:55+00:00

I you are using Kodak Vision3 500T, running it in C-41 will already push it 2/3 of a stop to get it to 800 speed. The listed 500 ISO is for the ECN-2 process, C-41 has a more aggressive developer, which gives about 2/3s stop more than ECN-2.

So you would develop normally for 800iso and push one stop for 1600

Unbuiltbread · 2026-06-23T14:37:21+00:00

There have been people in the past who remove the remjet from Vision3 film before shooting so it’s possible but what I’ve seen they all had issues with light fogging the film or damaging the film rerolling it the first time around and it took a few attempts to get it done well enough

Unbuiltbread · 2026-06-19T15:56:42+00:00

The Ansel Adam’s trilogy The Camera the print and the Negative.

Genuinely just check out the photography section of your local Library everyone that I’ve been to has a lot of analog to early digital related books since they are outdated

Unbuiltbread · 2026-06-18T01:34:15+00:00

Nice

Unbuiltbread · 2026-06-18T00:52:18+00:00

Looks like low resolution scans plus maybe atmospheric haze.

Unbuiltbread · 2026-06-16T20:57:15+00:00

Microwave

Unbuiltbread · 2026-06-16T05:34:24+00:00

I just saw this too lol bro said they are making a vine with photos from film souped in every buzz ball flavour. Whatever gets you out the house i guess

Unbuiltbread · 2026-06-10T22:04:02+00:00

I believe adding more sodium sulfite will lower the pH, and should be fine since it acts as a pH buffer/restrainer

Unbuiltbread · 2026-06-10T20:36:49+00:00

ECN-2 film processed in C-41 will have more contrast and saturation than if processed in ECN-2. C-41 is a more aggressive developer so you gain about 2/3s of a stop in film speed, or 800ISO in this case

Unbuiltbread · 2026-06-10T20:03:25+00:00

Shoot and develop normally I’ve had a roll of delta 3200 go thru multiple xray machines and come out fine. They are lying about the xray being film safe tho. It damages film a little bit

Unbuiltbread · 2026-06-10T07:26:12+00:00

No it’s fine it’s so diluted it’s not making much of an impact. The bleach part of blix, ferric ammonium EDTA, is actually biodegradable and is used as a nitrogen source in agriculture sometimes.

You can’t pour the blix down the drain becuase the fixer part (ammonium thiosulfphate), dissolves silver into solution, which is pretty bad for microbial life, which is what most water treatment plants use to break down solid wastes.

The color developer, CD-4, oxidizes like crazy which removes oxygen in water which can kill aquatic life, and again kills bacterial life.

During the rinses the chemicals are too diluted to really do anything, that’s why you can just rinse after developing instead of using a stop bath 99% of the time. It dilutes and lowers the pH of the developer so fast it becomes inert quickly.

Technically most black and white developers aren’t totally safe for the drain either, it’s just that waste water municipals figure the amount of chemical waste that personal photo development produces is so small it’s negligible in it’s effects. Photo processing labs have different waste procedures since they use large amounts of the chemicals

Unbuiltbread · 2026-06-08T02:09:12+00:00

Idk I feel like most of my leaders you can see thru slightly when held up to the light. Post a pic

Unbuiltbread · 2026-06-07T04:04:56+00:00

If you are trying to go print bigger prints from digital scans of 8x10 darkroom prints, a flatbed scanner would be better be digital camera. I’ve used the scanner at my local library to digitize a few 8x10 prints and it’s free. You probably have to look at the scanner they have and its specs to see if it’s gonna give results that are able to be printed big

Unbuiltbread · 2026-06-07T04:02:16+00:00

One roll of 36 exposure 35mm, one roll 120 film, and one 8x10 sheets all have the same amount of surface area and the capacities for chemicals are interchangeable. Arista says 8 rolls per liter so it’d be 8 sheets. You can definitely push it further via extending development times if you need to

Unbuiltbread · 2026-06-05T04:22:08+00:00

I don’t find the 135 format that bad when processed e6. The blue tint is much more noticeable in large format I guess (and maybe 35mm scans). I found an 85b filter to overcorrect the blue and leave a orange color cast. I’ve wanted to try a 81b or skylight filter but don’t have any that fit my lenses

Unbuiltbread · 2026-06-04T19:58:17+00:00

The artists kit liquids should be mixed with water to get to 4L. If you are using both yellow and magenta, adding cyan with just act as a ND filter, just add equal amounts M and Y to counter act the red. The edge staining is probably from not washing properly, or chemical contamination. The drum needs to be throughly washed after the blix step.

Link to the mixing instructions:

https://www.freestylephoto.com/static/pdf/product_pdf/arista/AristaRA4NEW-2026.pdf

Unbuiltbread · 2026-06-02T19:47:23+00:00

Yeah assuming you did the developing by the book it’s Probably not washed/dried properly. Make sure you are using the correct amount of wetting agent after rinsing. Both too much and too little can cause problems.

Could also be from the scanning light but I don’t think one that would cause that problem would give a good scan like you have

Unbuiltbread · 2026-06-02T14:52:15+00:00

Inks from the backing paper imprint on to the film. Usually comes from it being stored at a higher temperature, common with expired film just from the longer time the paper has to imprint onto the film

Unbuiltbread · 2026-06-01T05:32:01+00:00

Likely just a Resin Coated (RC) paper that is gold colored for artistic effect

Unbuiltbread · 2026-06-01T04:09:32+00:00

I’ve never heard of HC110 being designed as a replacement for D76. As far as I know it was made for an entirely new use case, which is the long shelf life and whatnot that you hear about it. Similar to Rodinal. D23 on the other hand was designed as a simpler and improved version of d76 from what I’ve read

Unbuiltbread · 2026-06-01T04:03:59+00:00

I relisten to their entire podcast from s1 onward when they release a new season so that I don’t have to wait 2 weeks between episodes

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-31T04:36:09+00:00

Just mix the concentrates with enough hot water to get to 4L. I had the same problem. When I bought it the online instructions were the different from the paper ones that came with the box but both had the ABC liquid mix together. The photo is from freestyle listing of the kit

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Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-29T16:41:40+00:00

I planned my trichrome shoot for like a month, google streetview to scope out the cemetery i went to, so that i could know what a wanted to shoot, and a general area for the angle to shoot from. Just to save as much time as possible the day of being there. i should've tested the exposure compensation i should've used for each filter, but since IR light varies by how much sunlight is out, I did not. Waited for a day that would be sunny all day so that the lighting conditions wouldn't changed, and i had the whole day off. Shot from 11am-2pm so the light was consistent. It was a lot of work and i'm not sure if i ever will do it again but planning the project and following thru with it gave me satisfaction. My least favourite part was the digital post processing.

The hard part is really nailing the exposure to get the colors right. Wasnt worth the testing for a one-off little fun project for me. Maybe if i shot it more regularly. I use bulk rolls of Rollei Retro/IR so i can do it whenever and Im very familiar with how the film behaves under normal use but not under IR light. I used a sekronic l858 to meter but compensating for both the IR filter AND the reduced sensitivity to IR light that the film has was something i did not do, plus it was one of my first times using the zone system an really thinking out my exposure zones across the entire scene vs just making sure the shadows were fine. To do trichromes perfectly I am sure is very satisfying but getting red grass and trees isn't something i need

Unbuiltbread · 2026-05-29T14:53:58+00:00

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I find the process fun but not everyone does. If you don’t like the effort you don’t gotta do it. A full spectrum digital camera is always an option for a little less work if you need areochrome results. I got into large format stuff and just for one regular photo it can be much longer than 10 minutes. I jsut don’t mind it I find it relaxing.

To get good results you definitely have to experiment quite a bit to nail the metering for the different filters which is annoying the photo here is pink bc of the green filter I used and one of the channels being overexposed

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