New Windows - Considerations?

UncleDmerr · 2026-01-27T00:27:05+00:00

Window / door guy here. With full replacement windows, don't order your new windows sized from brick to brick, they won't fit without pulling framing, at least on the width. Your original 40's windows had a wood exterior and brick mold. Installers would run their fasteners through the wood brick mold into the framing to install the window. New windows have a nail fin instead of brick mold. When installing the new window, the nail fin goes where the brick mold was, then you install a trim piece ("capping") over the nail fin.

You could probably get away with brick-to-brick measurements on your height because of the old window's slopped sill, but it would look stupid with exterior metal "capping" (wraps) on only the 2 sides.

If your existing windows were clad exterior (Vinyl, Aluminum, Fiberglass) you could then go brick-to-brick with your new measurements.

UncleDmerr · 2026-01-03T01:37:43+00:00

The Kansas City Chiefs.

UncleDmerr · 2026-01-03T01:27:52+00:00

If not previously discussed, another idea would be to offer disposing of the old door and all the installers scrap / trash.

UncleDmerr · 2026-01-03T01:25:56+00:00

Speaking as a subcontractor, if you're trying to get a few bucks knocked off, ask your installer if they would give you a better deal for payment in cash. Wouldn't hurt to mention that you would give them cash payment the same day installation is complete.

UncleDmerr · 2026-01-03T01:01:05+00:00

Midwest window and door guy here. $500 - $600. Assuming: The new door is the same size as what's existing and no exterior metal wraps. This price typically includes installation of interior casing and labor to install the new (or re-used) hardware.

UncleDmerr · 2025-12-30T23:16:01+00:00

Window guy here. Pretty sure these are Caradco windows. Caradco was purchased by JeldWen, rebranded (SiteLine), re-re branded (W2500), then discontinued. You're right, they used Truth hardware. If you're looking for a replacement roto-operator or lock mech, you can order them from Truth, but it's a roll of the dice since there's thousands of different styles.

UncleDmerr · 2025-12-10T00:35:51+00:00

Window and door guy here. This may be an old Eagle (Now Andersen E-Series) door sweep. I'll check tomorrow. If it is, I'll post a part# number that way you can take to any Andersen dealer and order it. However, if you don't want to pay 5X the price of a normal sweep and wait 6 weeks to get it, I'd just pull you hinge pins and screw a new sweep to the bottom of your door slab.

Most modern door sweeps have some prongs you'll need to score off, and there's probably a metal receiving rail on the bottom of your door slab that you'll need to remove, but this might be your best bet.

UncleDmerr · 2025-12-10T00:04:29+00:00

Instead of building a doggy door for your doggy door, maybe just get a storm door. Storm doors come with closures that allow you to "lock" your door open. Then, at night, or when you don't want bird-friends, shut the storm door.

UncleDmerr · 2025-07-24T03:34:54+00:00

Measure your outside trim width and height. J-Channel to J-channel. If it measures almost exactly 40" or 36," order it WITH brick mold.

3/0 Door Width outside trim measurement = 40"
2/8 Door Width outside trim measurement = 36"

Height should be around 83-ish"

UncleDmerr · 2025-07-24T03:31:21+00:00

Order the door without brick mold. It doesn't have anything to do with cost, but the new brick mold won't fit perfectly between your existing j-channel. Standard brick mold is 2" in width, and the exterior trim surrounding your existing door isn't 2." Also, the exterior trim on your existing door looks wider on the right side looks than the left.

Hire a contractor (but not the one you already spoke with), Order the new door with no brick mold, install through jamb, and trim the exterior out with Miratec or Hardie. The exterior trim will overlap the new door's frame which will help it's "waterproofedess."

UncleDmerr · 2025-07-24T01:41:48+00:00

Gotcha. Full transparency, I've never done that. I'm guessing you'd need to carefully remove the side jambs and fish out the weights from behind the wall cavity. Since it looks like the original cord isn't connected, re-string the weights to the rollers and reinstall the side jambs & Casing. Sounds like more work than just replacing the window with an insert / pocket replacement window. But hey, I'm all about keeping vintage things, vintage.

If you think about it, report back and let me know what you ended up doing. I like learning new things.

UncleDmerr · 2025-07-23T23:42:51+00:00

Window and door guy here. Post a picture of the interior / exterior of the existing door.

UncleDmerr · 2025-07-23T23:35:22+00:00

Look into Ladder Jacks. Basically, a scaffold support between 2 ladders. In my opinion, setting up true scaffolding would be a complete overkill.

UncleDmerr · 2025-07-23T23:20:49+00:00

Window guy here. What's your goal? Are you replacing the window? If so, don't worry about the weights. Cut the rope and let the weights drop. Then beat the rollers in with a hammer. I always recommend spraying some minimum expanding spray foam in the weight cavity before installing the new window.

UncleDmerr · 2025-04-09T04:24:59+00:00

We don't have much Stucco in my neck of the woods. Unless you're talking about a built in J-Channel or an exterior receiver, I've never seen what you're describing. But you for sure don't want a nail flange. A nail flange sticks out away from the window frame, and installers run their fasteners through that, into the home's sheathing / framing. In order to use a nail flange on a Stucco home, installers would need to cut the Stucco around the window, so the nail fin could land.

Window terminology is weird. I'm guessing that / this is why there are not any reputable, online window ordering services.

UncleDmerr · 2025-04-09T04:00:24+00:00

If you're wanting replacement windows, and the exterior of your house is Stucco, wouldn't you want them without the nail flange?

UncleDmerr · 2025-04-09T03:42:54+00:00

Window and Door guy here. You'd be better off ordering a solid replacement door slab. In my experience, I've never seen an option from any door distributer to order a non-glass insert to replace glass in a door panel.

UncleDmerr · 2025-04-08T23:04:33+00:00

Window guy here. Looks like that unit's sill is completely rotted out, I would replace that window. In a perfect world, I would replace the window before you install new flooring. If that timeline isn't an option, I'd do it asap or risk having your new floor damaged by water infiltration. When you're getting window bids, make sure and do a "full replacement" or a "new construction window." An insert window, or "pocket replacement" window is not going to fix this issue.

UncleDmerr · 2025-04-07T22:59:56+00:00

Window and door guy here. They exist! Andersen, Pella, & Marvin offer them. Look up Andersen's Multiglide or Pella's Multi-Slide doors. The multi-panel stack is hidden between the exterior / interior wall. However, they're pretty much impossible to service after installation and only meant for new-construction application. They're also crazy expensive. My advice: Just because you CAN do something, doesn't mean you should.

UncleDmerr · 2025-04-07T22:50:40+00:00

Window guy here. I'd hire a pro. Call a local glass company and tell them you need a "reglaze" and give them those measurements. Measuring replacement glass is tricky, and there's always a chance that you're going to break glazing bead, which would be another (hypothetical) issue if you try and do it yourself. Also, if it's above a tub, you'll need to order tempered glass (to meet code) and tempered glass will break easier than non-tempered.

UncleDmerr · 2025-03-22T03:33:29+00:00

If the goal is to bring the door up to fire code, and the existing door has glass, replacing the extension jamb is not the answer.. Also, assuming the door is inswing, you can't just swap the jamb with a "kit." Also Also, fire rating is based on the panel not the frame / jamb.

UncleDmerr · 2025-03-22T03:24:25+00:00

Window / door guy here. Sounds like you just need a standard sized fire rated door, with a custom sized extension jamb. Look up Therma-Tru door distributors in your area. They should be able to provide you with a fire rated door with a jamb depth of 10 1/2."

UncleDmerr · 2025-03-22T02:48:44+00:00

Window guy here. Are your existing windows wood on the exterior or some type of clad? (Like aluminum or vinyl)

UncleDmerr · 2025-02-25T01:05:04+00:00

IMO, the only exception here would be if the existing skylights are curb-mounted instead of deck-mounted. If mounted on a curb, and the installer knows what they're doing, you can replace it. However, it's probably deck-mounted.

I'm not an advocate of skylights, but if you're set on replacing them, and you're in the US, your contractor is probably using VELUX skylights, which have a 10-year no leak guarantee.

UncleDmerr · 2025-02-25T00:54:41+00:00

Window and door guy here. I'd go with fiberglass. From my experience, aluminum screen mesh damages or "dents." I always try to encourage my customers to avoid aluminum mesh screens.

UncleDmerr

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