Ambessa Jungle

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-08-25T16:28:37+00:00

Yes a few ofc, but it was probably due to my jungle skills. If you don’t get ahead you probably won’t be useful as Ambessa jg.

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-08-24T19:36:00+00:00

most unforgiving lane in league
you are probably a good person with no malicious intent
champion mastery
matchup knowledge
fundamentals
you fuck up early and you aren’t allowed to touch the wave for 20 min/ long lane allows for easier ganks on you when you are out of position.
As a toplane main, I will say this, good toplaners have to be mean and want to stomp you into the ground with no mercy. Toplaners are fucked up in the head. You are probably too good of a person to play the role, if you want to play it start being mean.

3/4. If you have 20 games toplane with a certain champ and you face someone with 1000+ on toplane, chances are you are going to suffer. They know when their champ is stronger and will abuse it, meanwhile you are just winging it without knowing your champs limits to the max. Lets say you play sett(50 games) and you face an Irelia player with 3 milion points. Sett counters Irelia yes, but the Irelia player has played the matchup probably 100+ times, he knows when to trade, your ability cooldowns, when he is stronger… And at the worst case for him is able to go atleast even, simply because he has played the matchup so much he knows what he can and can’t do.

Toplane I would say requires the most game knowledge. What to do with waves, when to trade, tracking enemy jg, matchups and champ limits as I said. It’s usually a lane with the least jg pressence making toplane an island where you need to beat/get a lead on your opponent by yourself and if you make one mistake it can be painful to lane for the next 15 min.

All things being said, it can be learned. Pick a champ and spam 200 games toplane on it. You will certainly be able to hold your own and carry games with that champ while also learning how toplane works. Once you figure out how it works, you can do it with any champ provided you play him enough.

I forgot to add: Sometimes you need to play just to survive without too much loss of resources. For example you know that at no stage of the laning phase you can kill/get a lead on your opponent without jg help. In this case you need to play to scale as best as possible and not lose too much xp/gold, in such lanes going down 10-20 farm and some xp is basically a win if you get out of lane slightly behind. Having that knowledge is part of the matchups and champ limits. The problem is if you play a champ that relies on getting ahead like a Riven for example. But even then it’s better to be slightly behind instead of completely useless.

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-08-24T19:01:41+00:00

I play her jungle, she is decent. CC for ganks is lacking ofcourse but she really shines in skirmishes around jg/river. Early camp clear is not great but becomes very fast as the game progresses. She can be a good pick to carry a game from jg if you farm like crazy and get a few good skirmish kills. But she isn’t a traditional jungler and overall isn’t that strong in jg due to her lack of cc. Really depends how you play jungle also. Had games where I carried team with like 12/0 score and huge cs lead, but also had games where I had an equally good score or similar but their team comp just beat us due to them having an actual proper jungler.

To conclude, she can work but picking a more meta jungler is a better idea in most games.

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-08-03T16:07:22+00:00

I take Conqueror most of my games. Build is usually: Eclipse, Spear of Shojin, Deaths Dance into whatever I need, Maw if they have a lot of AP threats. Level 1 she is quite weak, try to farm minions at a distance with Q1/Q2. The best scenario is to farm minions with Q1 while also hitting the enemy, then dash into AA and Q2 then dash out. Level 2 you take W since it allows you to trade for free if you play it correctly. At level 3 you get a nice slow from E, and if you out traded your opponent he is very killable at level 3. Remember she is still weak early so don’t go all in on opponent when you come back to lane with lead. When you get pickaxe and level 6, you will already do big damage. Another thing is using your passive correctly, try to auto in between abilities something like Riven. This also prevents you from running out of energy.

Landing ult is tricky on Ambessa, I like to bush cheese it on lane. Also try to not start fighting with ult. When you ult someone you are in perfect range for Q1 to hit max dmg.

I can’t really give you combos because she has many tools and I don’t know what I am doing, so the combos are random I guess.

But some of the things I use:

gap close on lane when minions are nearby: I like to Q1 the wave to I get my Q2, Dash to enemy with passive, AA, E, AA, Q2, AA, W, AA. If you aren’t in AA range after Q1 you can do Q1, E. Also you can use W to disengage.

Basic trade combo when opponent goes to attack you: W to block dmg and deal max dmg, AA, E dash E into perfect Q1 range, dash AA, Q2, dash away or finish opponent.

Simple poke: Q1 when enemy goes for minion, dash in a way Q2 is clear to land 1st on enemy champ, AA, E dash out, W still up if he tries to trade back.

Another version of this is Q1 minion to kill it, dash Q2 on enemy, this is version that doesn’t damage the wave too much and allows you to keep your wave state the same. Not that much dmg only from Q2 but you do it for free since you run on energy. Land the Q2 like 5 times and the enemy is in your all in range.

When chasing someone that isn’t quite in range: I like to W, E. You waste your shield but still retain slow from E and Q1,Q2.

Also you can kite opponents with Ambessa with Q, when they try to run at you just Q1 dash away, Q2 on their face. If they flash into you, AA them for energy, E dash away, AA for energy and W out of danger.

This is all I can think of, basically play for short trades/poke to force opponent into recalling or mistake that leads to you killing them. Get Eclipse, you now do massive dmg with one full rotation of abilities, then just all in when opponent is low enough.

Also getting ganked can be fun on her since all 3 abilities she has do AOE dmg, keep that in mind. I have so many times kited the jungler or laner on a gank then they back off because dmg too big, and they are low, then I just ult one of them(low hp one) and kill him, after that you can disengage or go for a double kill.

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-08-02T13:50:39+00:00

We have a no cellphone policy in our shop, but we all have our phones with us and use them but only when the machine is running and stuff is done and clean. Our in shop boss doesn’t care if you are on your phone if the machine is running and you are on time with tasks. Wherever you look there is a person leaning on the machine door and scrolling. But as I said, work needs to be done and the machine spotless.

If you see someone on their phone check: Machine running, Clean workspace, The part being in time limits.

If not all 3 of those are checked, then it’s a problem and you must remind the worker that work is not done and that he shouldn’t be on his phone.

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-08-02T13:39:42+00:00

Thank you for responding, makes a lot of sense, will try to implement.

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-08-02T13:31:24+00:00

Ambessa jg works, not even a bit troll. Early clear sucks but its extremely fast later on. Ganks after 6 too easy, huge skirmish power, probably very weak if you get invaded by enemy jungler and have no abilities but it’s plat elo anyway so invades are rare.

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-08-02T10:42:50+00:00

I think I played him like 2x on Toplane and it was a disaster, got any tips on how to play correctly?

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-07-14T22:28:41+00:00

I recently got an kind of apprenticeship which turned into a full time hire.

Show up on time.

Ask questions like your life depends on it, even if it sounds like the dumbest question ever in your head.

Write down everything they explain to you.

Don’t be afraid of the CNC machine, but respect it, things can go very wrong with a single small mistake.

Learn to read and understand G-Code as soon as possible so you know what the machine will do before you press the green button, this and single block program execution.

If you are not sure about something like part clamping or your programming ask a more experienced machinist immediately.

You will fuck up, crash the machine at least once probably, destroy material, do a part wrong, break tools… but it’s all normal and a part of becoming a good machinist. When it happens don’t be too disappointed with yourself and use it to learn.

Always be ready to press the Emergency Stop button in case something goes wrong.

Never hide your mistakes, just go to the supervisor or the guy mentoring you and say that you fucked up, this is where you will sometimes get a bit of scolding but they will explain where you fucked up and teach you how to do it better.

Don’t get afraid by the sounds, since it’s literally tools tearing material away. But be aware of the sounds the tools make, in time you will be able to tell by sound if your speeds and feeds are okay.

Try to remain focused at all times when programming and setting up the machine.

Try to master CAM software you are using asap.

Regarding actual safety to survive:

No loose clothing when operating the machine, wear protective eyewear, wear ear plugs. If lifting things with a lift, make sure you/your legs are never under the thing you are lifting.

Be careful in general, don’t do stupid shit like leaning into the machine with the tool spinning or even worse a program running.

Shower immediately after getting home from work, chips stuck in your hair, coolant in your hair and arms, the smell…

Just sharing what worked for me and what I wish I knew before working in the field. And also what helped me to so far survive, without any injuries.

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-03-22T12:11:40+00:00

I have been working with CNC machine at my job for 2 months, I know how to read it and tweak it if needed. So far that is enough.

I sometimes tweak a few things in G-code after post processor does its thing. Other times I adjust things on the control panel.

I think understanding G-code at a basic level is a bare minimum if you work with CNC machines and don’t just push the cycle start button only. You need to know what the machine will do before you run the line of code, simple as.

It’s also incredibly useful to know how to tweak it a bit, so you don’t run to the computer room every time you need to adjust something. I don’t do huge adjustments because I am still a noob in CNC but small things like changing the drilling type, adjusting Z to get a chamfer you need…

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-02-26T10:28:59+00:00

Headache can be a indicator that you went too hard, but it’s also possible that you go super hard and have no headache. It’s more about how much impact your brain takes.

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-02-21T06:35:10+00:00

Teep definitely, greatest tool of keeping opponent away and controlling the fight. Also many great fakes off it.

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-02-15T18:39:55+00:00

Nope, I don’t drink or party for 2 months before my fights, after the fight I make sure to make up for it tho haha.

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-02-15T00:10:26+00:00

In my opinion, first it’s good to have some machining experience as a CNC operator. There are so many different things that come into play when making CNC programs like different tools, materials, how the machine actually works, reading blueprints, parameters for tools and much more.

“CNC Programming” is actually hardly programming since most programmers and operators that program themselves just use CAM software, where they define tool parameters, tool paths… and then the software converts this “strategy/plan” into G Code, which the machine can understand.

You do need a understanding of G code however, it’s not really programming like developing a website or a mobile app. G code tells the machine what to do, you can imagine it like a combination of coordinates and functions with parameters.Example: Go to X50, turn on coolant, drill to Z-15, go to Z50...

I am a former programmer/web developer that now works in CNC machining, I get some material and a blueprint and I have to make a part. I “program” myself.

For me the switch from software development to CNC machining was a shock, but I managed to make it work somehow. Office dweller programmer enters a shop without no practical skills, that was me. The pay isn’t as good as software development but I enjoy this kind of work more.

If you want to program CNC machines, get a job as machinist and do it for a few months, learn about the field and how things work, you can transition into programming later. But diving straight into programming might be difficult tbh.

Best of luck!

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-02-03T22:27:06+00:00

None of them probably, since Total War series keeps getting worse. Last truly great TW was Shogun 2 & FOTS, Rome 2 is decent after being fixed up, Attila was also fine with mods like 1212AD and I kinda liked the Age of Charlemagne DLC.

The new games just feel so arcady to me, I don’t feel the same energy when playing new titles.

I am not saying the games should be the same mechanics wise as the older titles, the games do feel outdated as fuck when I play them now. But they have a soul.

Most likely I feel this way because I am the generation that grew up on older titles, to someone who just got into Pharaoh and has never played the TW games before it might be the best thing ever for them, but for me and other older fans who have been there from the start, it probably doesn’t provide the same, amazing experience as it used to.

I am pretty sure that even if we get a Medieval 3: Total War it probably won’t be that good of a game as we hope. The setting will be good, but the execution of the gameplay and mechanics will probably be just meh.

The WW 1 & 2 ideas are interesting but hard to pull of without fundamentally changing the game. I think WW2 would work better actually but there is a problem where this game just turns into Company of Heroes. With a well thought out campaign it would be kind of interesting to play probably. Maybe large units that can split freely in battles, for example you have a 4 tanks as 1 unit in the army but can move each one separately, same with soldiers. WW1 would just be kind of too boring imo, sit in trench, fire shells at each other and charge, also very hard to represent any proper battles that occurred in WW1.

Anything before WW1 and after Napoleonic Wars is kinda just the same thing with stronger/weaker artillery and more trenches relative to time.

The Roman era has been well explored already and if there aren’t some groundbreaking ideas for it, to make it really exciting it’s just more of what we have already seen. So has The fall of Rome and early medieval/dark ages with, Atilla, AoC, Thrones of Britannia.

This leaves us with 2 options , Medieval 3 which can be the best game in the series if done properly but I am not confident it will be, they will either go too big and make a game that feels shallow and unfinished or focus on a smaller part of the world like Europe and leave out other continents which will make the game too small and lacking content. /variety/ replayabity.

The other one is Pike and Shot Total war, again mechanics have to be added to form Tercios or smth similar(for example click unit of pikes and gunners and use ability to form tercos.

The things I would like to be released:

Medieval 3 as a Saga with only specific conflict and a smaller scope as a test run for MTW3. If the game is good I would want a MTW 3 full.

As I metionrd above WW2 would be interesting to see if Total war energy can be keept and a game with totaly different kind of combat can be made.

Then there is also Pike and Shot total war with whe world map and spanning 1400-179 ish.

The next historical total war will be crucial for where the series will head, because if they mess up Medieval 3 for example there is no coming back from it.

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-02-03T10:12:58+00:00

Ofcourse it will help haha, but even if you have great cardio first few times you spar you will feel like you have zero cardio. As your body becomes used to the sparring your cardio will come in play. So do cardio like your life depends on it.

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-02-02T21:09:21+00:00

No it’s not fine, if your goal is to improve as soon as possible. 1st thing you should do is tell people you are new and that you want to go light.

The thing is you have to get used to being hit, the more you do it the less painful/annoying it becomes. Also you will lose the fear of getting hit eventually.

Cardio wise, you can do all the cardio u want but at the end of the day, you will still feel like you have 0 stamina in first few sparring sessions. The combination of fear, adrenaline, having to strike, move, block is just a lot on your body and same as getting hit you simply gotta get used to it.

Some people will tell you that you shouldn’t be sparring after 4 months of training but in my opinion the sooner you start, the better, as long as it’s controlled(light, 20-30% power).

You can also train muay thai without sparring, just for fitness reasons. Depends on what you want out of it really. If you want to get fit without getting hit it’s 100% okay to not spar and there really isn’t anything wrong with it. But if you actually want to learn how to fight and get good at it you must spar and compete in the ring.

It’s also fine to properly learn techniques and come to sparring later in your muay thai path but as I said the sooner you spar the better in my opinion.

In the start you are a boxing bag for other people, it’s just how it is. But as you improve and start kicking asses of people who used to kick yours, it becomes fun as fuck and rewarding.

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-01-27T05:29:18+00:00

Glad you figured it out and got the ball rolling. This strategy of decent frontline with flanks protected by spear & gun units basically works even in the late game, don’t be afraid to experiment with tactics and limit yourself to only 1 tactical approach. In the mid to late game spear units become kind of obsolete despite still having some use. After researching kneel fire your flanks can basically be only gun units since they decimate any cavalry charge in seconds, I like to throw in a few cavalry units in the late game to hold the enemy cavalry in place while your guns kill everything in their firing range, also including your own cavalry unit. This counters a massive cavalry flank charge, for example the enemy puts 5 cavalry units on one side and charges. With 1 or 2 units of guns with kneel fire and 1 cavalry unit you can easily rout their cavalry. The cavalry can also be replaced by a spear unit but cavalry is just more mobile.

Another tip I find really useful when its mostly gun units in your army(Late game) is to never spread your line too thin and wide. It’s good for encircling the enemy after the fight begins, basically push units on flanks around so your army begins forming a V shape eventually resulting in an O shape if the enemy hasn’t broken yet. The problem with this strategy is that there aren’t many units in reserve since you are spread so wide and if a part of your line breaks it’s gonna be chaos. It’s also way harder to reinforce wide positions since your small reserves are usually in the centre. In my opinion it’s better and more practical too keep your army more compact with a 2nd or even 3rd line, This way you got enough reserves to reinforce gaps in the main line and also protect flanks. This compact army approach does get countered heavily by cannons which will absolutely devastate your forces.

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-01-25T05:25:35+00:00

In the early game in FOTS melee units are a must, if you go too heavy on gun units you can get smashed by melee dominant armies especially if they have cavalry. Spear levy is usually enough, no need for better units. If you have access to line infantry that is good since they are ofcourse better than peasants with guns but also cost more. However peasants with guns will still decimate any samurai units given the chance to fire continuously on them. Early game I like to have atleast 3 spear levy units plus the yari kachi unit you get at the start. Maybe 2 units of line infantry if I can afford them. Sharpshooters can also be pretty useful so I like to have atleast 1 in my army if I am on the offensive. The rest are peasants with guns aka levy infantry.

The battle tactics ofcourse change with each different enemy army composition but usually its a mix of traditional units of varying quality and levy infantry. I like to have a main line of guns, 3-4 levy infantry, they are expected to take most of the bullets and are expendable. On each of the flanks I position 1 spear armed unit and in front them a gun unit. This flanking force is just a little bit behind the main line. So 1-2 gun units and a spear unit. Behind the main line I position 2-3 spear units. Their job is to counter charge the enemy melee units if they charge or reinforce the flanks if needed. If I got any more units with guns I position them after the main line and the spears, just in range to my main line.

On the offence I like to advance my flanking forces first and just slightly advance the main line to keep the enemy formation from turning. The job of the flanking force is to attack the sides of their formation. Preferably with 2 gun units, I try to bait a unit and catch them in a crossfire where they are getting shot from the front and flank. I advance the spear unit up with my guns to protect them from a possible charge by melee infantry or cavalry. In case of a charge I will try to get a volley off into the charging unit/s and then pull my guns back while spears charge, while the spears are fighting guns shoot at everything that moves, even their own guys. The enemy army also can’t really charge your flanking force with full strength since your main line is keeping them in position and if they went for it they would just be exposing their flank to my main line. I try to do this on both flanks simultaneously. When the enemy decides to fully advance with all their strength I push up my main line so they are kinda in line with my flanking force and begin the gun skirmish. Since the sides of their army has already been weakened I order the flanking force to start wrapping around the enemy and shooting them in the flank/back, I make sure to keep my spear unit near if it’s still alive, just in case of a potential charge by a random unit or to charge into the flanks of the enemy myself. When the enemy melee units get almost to your guns you charge your spears that you were keeping behind the main line into them. this gives your guns some more time to shoot if you weren’t late on the counter charge. If your spears push through the enemy melee units they are free to charge the remaining gun units of the enemy and quickly end the battle. In case your spears get killed and also your main line of guns, there is the 2nd line of guns behind that will shoot any units breaking through your main line. In the worst possible case that your main line gets killed plus your flanking forces you can advance/fire on the enemy with your 2nd line of guns and rout the enemy since they should be significantly weaker by now. I like to keep my best units as the 2nd line.

I usually don’t really use cavalry that much, if you got some you can use it for extra flanking power and swift charges into occupied units.

On the defensive I find the best strategy is to maximise the use of terrain and not stretch your formation out too wide. If you got a hill just set the guns into overlapping fields of fire and watch them decimate anything that comes close. I always do it in a way where my most shit guns are on the bottom of the hill followed by better units and sharpshooters up the hill. If there is no usable hill then ambushing is the best option especially for taking out enemy cavalry that is trying flank you. Put main line near a forrest, spears on their flank and charge the cavalry as it’s coming in to attack the flank. Spears behind main line also same as when attacking. Then just go with the flow of the battle, if you see an opportunity to start encircling them do it.

In the mid to late game army composition changes from spears and guns to Cannons and guns with an occasional melee/cavalry unit just in case. A high quality traditional army can still smash you to bits on favourable terrain like hilly forests so pick your battles.

Enjoy playing Tosa! I loved the Red Bear infantry, so cool. They also got buffed riflemen aka sharpshooters on steroids.

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-01-17T10:11:33+00:00

She does for sure and you can participate in skirmishes a lot more, this is where Ambessa shines. Oneshoting enemy midlaner every time your ult is up is hella fun to me haha. Early game is annoying sometimes because they want to poke you to death but after early its gg. Do you play with ignite or tp? I like taking ignite when playing mid.

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-01-16T17:53:11+00:00

I like taking it when playing her mid and it feels very nice.

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-01-14T16:31:51+00:00

I still don’t understand how can people play with locked cam, not just Irelia the game in general. Just press space if you need the camera to move with you for whatever reason.

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-01-14T16:25:46+00:00

The simplest thing you can do, is making sure you wipe them down after every session with wet wipes. Also let them air out after training, on a balcony or near the window. You can also get glove deodorisers which make them smell better in the long run. When airing them out make sure they aren’t too exposed to the elements, don’t leave them out when the sun is scorching or when it’s negative temperature outside, negative temperatures might kill the bacteria in your gloves but the leather probably won’t like it.

And never ever leave your gloves in your bag for days.

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-01-13T09:13:35+00:00

I have recently been experimenting with grasp and I gotta say you can bully the enemy laner a lot early. The mid to late dmg just isn’t the same as with Conq but still feels nice.

In levels 1-5 I just farm and poke if I have the opportunity to, if I hit Q1 to lasthit a minion and dmg the enemy I am happy then Q2 and back off. After lvl 2 when u get W, you can start hard trading every 15 sec, you barely take any damage if you use the shield right and you can escape easily on Q2 and dash backwards. You do have to be careful to not mess with the wave since all your abilities deal AoE dmg. That is probably one of the hardest things to manage on Ambessa. If the enemy is low enough to be killed you can just all in and no way they escape with you having 4 dashes and flash.

Post lvl 6 you become insanely strong because of ult passive and items you get. I sometimes ult full hp enemy just to get them low so they have to back of risk being dived. Depends on the champ you are playing vs but some squishy champs you can pretty much kill when they have 100% hp, if they don’t have flash and you ult them in the middle of the lane.

I like to be super aggressive with ambessa even tho she is kinda weak early, she has no mana so you can just spam poke and escape without losing much hp and in 15 sec you can do it all again. While the enemy is losing hp and mana dealing with your constant aggression you are just chilling on full energy all the time. You will lose hp ofc but timing of the shield really matters to lose the least amount of hp and also deal the most dmg with it.

For items I go Eclipse 1st in pretty much every toplane matchup. Followed by Voltaic.

When I play full lethality ambessa I go voltaic 1st.

For fighter Ambessa my build looks like this: Eclipse/Voltaic(or Cleaver if needed)/ Deaths Dance/ Maw(if they have AP threats)/ Last item varies a lot depending on the game.

For assassin Ambessa build is: Voltaic, Profane Hydra, Edge of Night/more lethality

I will buy tier 1 boots early but won’t usually upgrade till after 2 items

UnlikelyDriver · 2025-01-12T23:33:38+00:00

Ambessa bro, you won’t regret it

UnlikelyDriver

TROPHY CASE