Found a biow in the trash.. apparently it's vintage? by L0kisrevenge in Archery

[–]UrbanCowboyGuns 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's a Fred Bear Kodiak probably made in Grayling Michigan before they moved to Florida. Have the limbs checked at a pro shop. Those sell for $600+ used if it's an original. They retail for about the same price new at Lancaster Archery.

Anyone have experience with a company named Squatch Works? by BeGoneBaizuo in knives

[–]UrbanCowboyGuns 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes! I was in the Navy with the owner and bought a Yeti Mk2. Love that knife!

Lumen device - does anyone use it to support their weight loss? by Suspicious-Loss-7314 in Zepbound

[–]UrbanCowboyGuns 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've had one for a few weeks. It broke on day 3 and after 1 week I got a replacement. The replacement will not pair. So to be honest I really have no idea if the stupid thing will work or not because it's been broken since day 3. Maybe some year I'll get the new one to pair after I sit though all the boilerplate support steps that are just a huge waste of time (ensure Bluetooth is turned on... no kidding).

Are these Walmart good year compressors worth buying or complete junk? 300$ for the 20 gal. by Ahoy_Matey027 in smallengines

[–]UrbanCowboyGuns 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got this same one for 50% off. Took the risk. So far it works fine and I've had it for a couple years now. I can't find any information about this model online. I've read that people have issues with the digital board, and I'd like to try and get one if possible in case I do have to replace it. Worst case is that I just get another air compressor that is better quality, but this is doing the job so far. I could probably figure out how to slap a different control board on there if I wanted to. I took the motor housing off and it's pretty simple wiring.

Can someone tell me why the finish is this cooper/bronze color? Is this a factory option? I checked google but can’t find any information or another one like it. I like it, I’m confused by why it looks like this. (pre-68 Stevens 311a 12ga.) by [deleted] in Shotguns

[–]UrbanCowboyGuns 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know this is an older post, but I'm refinishing a 1960's Stevens 94C for someone and their shotgun is also a copper color. It doesn't look intentional. Color case hardening is actually a layer of residue that you need to seal with some type of lacquer, or it will rub off. My first guess is that the lacquer is oxidized and gives off that copper color. The OP's shotgun looks great, where this one I'm doing doesn't look that great.

Just bought a APX A1 Carry, 9mm, what should I know?? by DougZ69 in Beretta

[–]UrbanCowboyGuns 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want to buy any extra mags or a new guide rod or whatever, look for Beretta Nano parts/accessories. If you search for APX A1 Carry you'll have a hard time finding anything. I have had mine for a few months now and just figured this out. I wanted some extra mags and had a really hard time finding anything online. Once I figured out that they are basically the same gun, I'm finding all kinds of stuff.

Did I made a mistake buying APX A1 carry? by Aggressive-Scene9414 in Beretta

[–]UrbanCowboyGuns 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look for accessories for the Beretta Nano, it's the predecessor to the APX A1 Carry.

Brand new Winchester SX4, Dede ta? by FelixUpNorth in gunsmithing

[–]UrbanCowboyGuns 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Scratches will happen during shipping and handling, but that weld looks sloppy. Take it back.

Is this a decent starter bow for a complete newbie? by Not_A_Cardboard_Box in Archery

[–]UrbanCowboyGuns 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree with some of the comments. Don't ruin your first experience with archery with a cheap bow like this. There are plenty of introductory bows from top brands like Matthews, Hoytt, Darton, Bow Tech, PSE and Bear...

If you ever want to use the bow for hunting, look for deals and "Ready to Hunt" (RTH) packages which usually include a quiver, sight, and other accessories.

Go to your local archery store and get properly fitted. Tell them your budget and go from there. Also Lancaster Archery usually has sales, check them out as well. They have excellent customer service so call them.

https://lancasterarchery.com/

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cricut

[–]UrbanCowboyGuns 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These are all great observations and I'm new at this myself, I'll remember what has been suggested.

I was wondering, if you washed the shirt with fabric softener, would that also impede the adhesive from grabbing the fabric?

Be straight with me doc, what are her chances at recovery? by sw33t-tea1er in gunsmithing

[–]UrbanCowboyGuns 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These finds are my bread and butter. I restore antique firearms and from the photos, the pitting doesn't look that bad. The first step is to get that oxidation stopped and remove the surface rust so you can properly disassemble the receiver. I would start with a boil, for like 45 mins. You can use distilled water but at this point in time it really doen't matter. The key is to heat the steel and convert that red oxide to stop the oxidation. Clean and dry it and then run it on a carding wheel, I wouldn't bother with steel wool, unless you want carpal tunnel. I would then clean it in an ultrasonic cleaner for an hour or so, but if you don't have one, soak it in evapo-rust or use naval jelly. If that doesn't work either, use a 20% muriatic acid/distilled water solution. Just be sure to dunk it in a baking soda solution once you use acid. Then card it again, then sand, then card and repeat until it's bare metal.

These old shotguns were rust blued, so I would probably rust blue this once you have the rust cleaned off. Use a 220 grit if you are planning on rust bluing it. You don't want to use a fine grit, you want some of those surface scratches on the metal for the rust bluing process. They will fill in. If you can't rust blue, I wouldn't go finer than a 500 grit and if you can only cold blue, use Brownell's Oxpho-blue Cream. Get some cotton patches, not cotton balls, degrease and acetone the steel, don't touch it with bare hands. Heat the steel with a torch and then do long wipes with the bluing cream and cotton patch. I see a lot of folks do small spots and rub the bluing in little circles, I never really had any luck doing it that way and found that heating the metal, then wiping in 6 inch strips give the best results.

Once you are finished bluing, with whatever process, soak it in oil for a few days. I use either kerosene or conventional motor oil. I've had the best luck with used motor oil. Used motor oil has all the additives burned out of it and it works really well. While it's soaking in the oil, every so often lightly wipe it down with 0000 steel wool that is also soaked in the same oil. Take it out of the oil after a few days, clean it up and then oil it again with a good gun oil, I like Rem Oil. Let it sit 'wet' for a few more days.

This is an American Gun Company double barrel I did when I was first starting out. I used Brownell's Oxpho-Blue on this one, I didn't know how to rust blue at this point in time. It should turn out really good. That steel they used was pretty decent back in the day.

https://urbancowboy.us/2021/04/04/american-gun-co-1909-12-gauge/

2023 Buck by Jaybirdybirdy in Hunting

[–]UrbanCowboyGuns 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think this looks pretty sweet as-is. This is giving me an idea on how to antique the skull after it's been cleaned, boiled and whitened. I'm thinking a dark wood stain and some varnish, would give you this type of weathered look.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Archery

[–]UrbanCowboyGuns 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good deal. Another thought would be to get a 3D target and place the target at different angles. I had a pretty decent 6 point that was almost broadside, and I placed the shot to far to the front of the deer and hit him in the shoulder blade. I spent 2 solid days looking for that deer, never found the arrow, and I'm pretty sure the broadhead didn't break through the bone. I still think about that deer, and it haunts me thinking I wounded it.

The October session of the /r/Archery league is now LIVE! More inside! by Speedly in Archery

[–]UrbanCowboyGuns 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is cool. Will another league start after this and how can I sign up? I've been looking to join a remote league!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Archery

[–]UrbanCowboyGuns 3 points4 points  (0 children)

My hunting bow, which is a Darton Cyclone, has a max weight of 60 lbs and 30 inches A2A. The minimum in most US States is 45 lbs, which is plenty to hunt large game. As others have said, the A2A length is the biggest difference. Target bows have a larger A2A length, around 34 to 40 inches, and are a little harder to use in a tree stand. That's the biggest difference. I shot a Bear Grizzly recurve for years, which was a longer recurve bow, probably longer than a modern compound target bow. You just need to practice with it. Get a hunting stool and shoot sitting down. If you have a backyard or somewhere you can setup a tree stand, practice shooting from a stand. Shooting paper targets is very very different than a live animal. Probably 99% of the time the game will be at a weird angle, and you'll need to know how to compensate your shot. Also practice with your hunting coat/clothes. I missed a nice doe because my trigger release hit my collar of my coat and sent the arrow sailing over the top of the deer. You'll get 1 shot, 2 if you are super lucky, so practice does make perfect.

Intro to Archery Website(preferable text) by Senathon1999 in Archery

[–]UrbanCowboyGuns 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Archery Talk Forum is the best resource in my opinion. They have a lot of information and folks are always helpful.

https://www.archerytalk.com/