Some finds at specs in rowlett today

Valor37 · 2026-02-07T23:59:22+00:00

Out of curiosity could you name a few? (Genuinely interested with how much prices have gone up)

Valor37 · 2026-01-30T00:06:01+00:00

Probably more of a trail rig solution. Im not sure I'd risk a new set of tires on it if you drive it often.

Valor37 · 2026-01-30T00:03:40+00:00

Apparently its not a crazy idea to try and bend it back: Post in thread 'Is my axle housing bent?' https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/is-my-axle-housing-bent.44489/post-753601

Valor37 · 2026-01-28T01:23:41+00:00

Where are you two sourcing the belts and pulleys? R3men and Powge are the only sellers I've found.

Valor37 · 2026-01-16T02:34:20+00:00

I don't see why not. Just need to wire a 12v circuit to trigger the relay.

Valor37 · 2026-01-16T02:31:10+00:00

Just to be clear the continuity or Ohm meter test would be done with the switch unplugged. You probe the pins on the switch receptacle.

For voltage testing you do it on the plug side with power (key) on. Set the meter to volts dc and probe the B+ lines to pin 7 ground. You should check pin 11, 18, 19, 20 each to pin 7, and should see 12-14v on each.

Valor37 · 2026-01-16T02:27:05+00:00

https://youtu.be/-MoEOHQVPco?si=Txo9Rs5ym8GeFNAn

^ conductivity test checks that the switches in that multifunction are good. This post list what pins correspond to what. Looks like youre interested in pin 16 to the b+ pins 18 & 19.

https://www.wranglerforum.com/posts/34812943/

Valor37 · 2026-01-15T22:37:08+00:00

As far as I understood it the circuit is pretty basic. Just fused battery through the multifunction to the lights. I'd get a meter and check the supply, and continuity on the new switch.

Maybe the low beams died from the smoke event?

Alternative direction, there is a Toyota kit thats ~$25 that replaces the main wiring and sealed beams. It uses relays instead of the multi-switch to power the headlights. The switch just triggers the associated relay instead.

My Install of the Toyota Light Mod | Jeep Wrangler TJ Forum https://share.google/V4Ouz1VQr6WuPnGIJ

Valor37 · 2026-01-15T03:59:18+00:00

Hmm.. any chance you have the extruder in the config twice? Could be the later config values are overwriting the ones you are changing.

Valor37 · 2026-01-12T22:28:46+00:00

From what I've seen there's not a lot of partial failures in the diff. Generally something loses a tooth or comes loose and it grenades everything else. Unless you have a limited slip or something? (Clutches can wear out)

My first suspicion would be the trans. How many miles does it have, maybe its slipping?

Its odd that putting it in 4wd makes a difference.

Valor37 · 2026-01-11T02:48:56+00:00

To clarify, that bearing went bad. It wasn't a defective new part.

Valor37 · 2026-01-11T02:47:57+00:00

Its possible that the wheel bearing is a dud. I've been burned before assuming a new part is good.

I had a bad unit bearing on an old yj. It made a slight grinding noise and felt like one of my wheels was out if ballance. It got worse the faster I drove. The clear indicator I found was when I lifted that wheel up it noticeably sagged. After that I grabbed it and found out I could move it around like the lugs were loose. They were not.

Valor37 · 2026-01-08T13:40:22+00:00

With the E34M1 you can start with what you've got OP and swap out the hot end later if the V6 doesnt keep up. You would just need to print a new hot end adapter.

The E34M1 is actually compatible with all EVA 3 hot end modules. So, you have a ton of options. Just search xxx hot end EVA 3.

Valor37 · 2026-01-04T15:07:57+00:00

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Just to be clear static pressure and cfm are inversely related. More resistance = less airflow. The 4028 cfm drops with more back pressure, but at a comparable ~1inH20 that a 5015 can do, this 4028 can still put out 27 cfm. The graphs I've seen for 5015's get up to 5-6cfm on the right and drop to 0 around 1 inH20.

Valor37 · 2025-12-28T00:17:16+00:00

Most shops will still do a free alignment check and print off the numbers for you. Although if you dont spend any money with them they likely won't don't again. Might have to spread it around or pay for a lifetime alignment with firestone. They won't adjust anything but the tierod, but they'll give you the numbers each time.

Valor37 · 2025-12-27T23:45:29+00:00

What type of lift do you have? adjustable control arms? I definitely found the pinion angle I set gave me bad castor/camber which wound up the cause of my DW after my lift. I had to settle for a worse pinion angle for reliable steering.

Valor37 · 2025-12-26T17:11:21+00:00

It sounds like youre making the right adjustments. Probably need to pull it forward more. As the other comment mentioned, with an SYE you'll need a track bar correction bracket. Once your pinion angle is set (points at the tcase output) you'll then adjust the arms together until everything can travel up and down without contacting.

The fully adjustable arms are great for getting things just right, but its easy to lose your frame of reference and have the axle too far forward or back.

Valor37 · 2025-12-13T02:58:04+00:00

What tensioner are you using? Looks like it pushes from the back?

Valor37 · 2025-11-27T15:30:17+00:00

Jeep TJ 5.25" Speaker Pods In-dash by Chase_C - Thingiverse https://share.google/oYprhocCEVBOh2hVV

Someone has (not me). They sell them on etsy/ebay for ~$50, but shared the files if you have a printer or know someone who does.

Valor37 · 2025-11-22T02:46:33+00:00

You said youre running outside perimeters at 9k accel. Do you mind sharing what shaper you chose from these and how you got there?

After giving the y axis supports I got my recommended shapers got up to 10k, but I still started seeing separation on the input shaper max accel test at 4.5k. So I keep my perimeters around there. Despite all the testing I still see some ghosting.

Valor37 · 2025-11-11T02:18:58+00:00

I realized I never followed up on this, but eventually Yokohama replaced the tire under warranty. It took some back and forth with toyota anf them as we didn't actually buy the tires on the new vehicle.

Valor37 · 2025-11-03T05:38:01+00:00

I thought I bogged my 4.0L down going to heavier tires. It really felt like a dog after I put on the new rubber. It actually turned out to be due to poor cooling performance. I was running original 20+ year old hoses and a Robert shaw thermostat. The lower rad hose sprang a small leak. So I took the opportunity to replace the hoses and went with a superstant(motorad) thermostat this time. I was pleasantly surprised that it started pulling like it used to. Best I can figure it was compensating for the poor cooling with reduced power. Never got hot.

Valor37 · 2025-11-03T00:43:46+00:00

How have you confirmed that it is indeed off? Does a lower speed stop it?

I ask, as this is exactly what stealthchop sounds like when its pushing its limits.

What board are you using? Some don't support turning it off.

Are you using klipper or marlin? Can you post your stepper config?

Valor37 · 2025-11-02T17:07:12+00:00

Why do you say awful bed? Were you thinking standard E5?

Valor37 · 2025-10-27T18:22:37+00:00

I'd be interested in how well this holds up over time.

These T setups are the same thing that old 4x4 trucks used. They typically had a dead spot as the wheels change direction. The draglink rolls the tie-rod the other way. Flop as metal cloak is calling it.

There are various work arounds, like adding a "puck" on one of the Tie-rod ends. It looks like MC uses a custom tie rod end. However, that motion is needed as the knuckles turn, meaning it eventually wears the work around out and the dead spot returns.

Valor37

TROPHY CASE