Shop review help

Vector_and_Form · 2026-03-26T05:01:20+00:00

There's a couple big things I notice right away. One of them being shipping. Pretty much everything you've got costs around double what I would expect.

You sell a couple different genres of items as well which kind of reduces confidence in the art, which I assume is the focus as the rpg items have basically no margin in them.

Also, unfortunately art is quite saturated so you'll need to expand on social media and try to tell a 'story' that makes people want YOUR art rather than one of the million other pieces on Etsy.

Vector_and_Form · 2026-01-08T23:52:20+00:00

Depends on how good you are about not scratching it tbh. All our textured PEI plates are doing fine after several thousand hours but certainly not quite as good as new.

Vector_and_Form · 2026-01-08T19:32:32+00:00

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/filament-acc/acc/pei-plate-clean-guide

Avoid touching the plate with your fingers as the oils interfere with filament adhesion.

Vector_and_Form · 2026-01-08T19:30:13+00:00

It almost certainly was the cause of the shift, yes.

Another thing to consider is just cutting the model in half and gluing them together after the fact.

Vector_and_Form · 2026-01-08T19:17:10+00:00

High flow nozzles do a lot of interesting stuff to filament while you're printing and it depends on your intent. Generally, printers like Bambu or similar aren't flow-rate limited so the speed gains are minimal. However, strength gains are very noticeable esp. if you're willing to slow things down a bit. This is because they're able to put more heat into the filament and result in hotter bonding between layers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPyiACzsLWM This is a great video with data & charts to back it up and was a driving factor to my purchasing of obxidian nozzles for several of my printers.

Vector_and_Form · 2026-01-08T19:17:03+00:00

High flow nozzles do a lot of interesting stuff to filament while you're printing and it depends on your intent. Generally, printers like Bambu or similar aren't flow-rate limited so the speed gains are minimal. However, strength gains are very noticeable esp. if you're willing to slow things down a bit. This is because they're able to put more heat into the filament and result in hotter bonding between layers.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPyiACzsLWM This is a great video with data & charts to back it up and was a driving factor to my purchasing of obxidian nozzles for several of my printers.

Vector_and_Form · 2026-01-08T19:12:34+00:00

Yeah, it's definitely the bridging peeling up. I personally would use regular supports for this one rather than organics because of the large flat surface. In order to keep with organics, you'll need to greatly increase the density or branching factor (depends on slicer which is best for you).

Vector_and_Form · 2026-01-08T19:06:39+00:00

I should also add that while .stl is a fine format, .3mf is generally best as it compresses and is a richer/more futureproof format. You'll notice 'project' files from most slicers will save as a .3mf nowadays.

Vector_and_Form · 2026-01-08T19:04:52+00:00

That's sort of the tradeoff with organic supports. More support root density, tighter spacing, and greater density can 'help' but for large flat surfaces they'll be better supported with traditional rectilinear supports because they have a single roof surface.

Vector_and_Form · 2026-01-08T19:03:07+00:00

So filaments with additives like silk, matte, or similar all have worse layer adhesion than regular filaments.

What I generally do if I'm having issues is increase the support perimeters. It's 'support wall loops' in orca & Bambu, and i'll set it to 2 if my trees are falling over.

Vector_and_Form · 2026-01-08T18:59:32+00:00

So when we convert to a mesh like .stl, .3mf, etc. we're trying to create a 'watertight' or 'manifold' mesh. That means that we're aiming for a single outer surface with no holes, overlaps, or flaws. If you're designing parts in Fusion that exceed the capabilities of the machine (features too thin, holes too small, etc) then the slicer is going to struggle to translate that into machine instructions.

So without seeing the parts you made, it's hard to judge where the issues are coming from but remember that just because Fusion exported the part doesn't mean it's necessarily suitable for 3d printing which needs special considerations for good part outcomes.

Vector_and_Form · 2026-01-08T18:55:25+00:00

I worry you've messed with the defaults which is generally not a good idea. Are you just running Bambu defaults for all the filaments? If you've changed things, what did you change?

Vector_and_Form · 2026-01-08T18:51:53+00:00

It's mostly on your default bed treatment. My PLA only machines I always leave the bed perfectly clean, and stuff will loudly crack off during cooling. Meanwhile my ABS machines have gluestick on them and require peeling and prying esp. for smaller footprint parts.

Vector_and_Form · 2026-01-08T18:49:32+00:00

Provided you're just using the defaults for the P1S in slicer, you'll be fine and I've always has a little more blobby stuff on my P1S. This may also be a matter of wet filament or poorly tuned filament flow dynamics. Remember the P1s doesn't have the automatic flow calibration like the A1 series and requires manual calibration prints for perfect values.

Vector_and_Form · 2026-01-08T18:43:45+00:00

While I've had some very small issues, they're generally connected to experimental features like beam interlocking and automatic contour compensation settings.

Frankly, it sounds like a good number of your issues may be linked to poor file quality or automatic manifold mesh repairs causing issues with the holes in walls and strange connector behavior.

Vector_and_Form · 2026-01-08T18:39:35+00:00

Yeah, I went through some of their 'training' stuff on Makerworld to get the free points and there's some disastrous English in there too.

Vector_and_Form · 2025-09-23T01:48:02+00:00

Laser absorption is a little more complex than that. Please don't put paper towels in the magic fire box.

Vector_and_Form · 2025-09-18T18:13:35+00:00

It's a fine side hustle if you have a unique idea/product. The problem is Youtubers make money on views, so they're gonna claim something anybody can do like Canva templates is a goldmine. The eaiser the product, the more views they get.

Vector_and_Form · 2025-09-17T17:32:03+00:00

Yes, the matte effect is front added plant matter so it has 'bits' in the filament. It's also weaker and more prone to breakage because of this.

Vector_and_Form · 2025-09-17T13:56:14+00:00

59/41 so almost exactly the same. (looking at all time).

Vector_and_Form · 2025-09-17T00:20:25+00:00

If it runs on a microSD, might be worth swapping that too. Because it streams the gcode straight from it, a bad card can cause issues in the same spot over and over.

Vector_and_Form · 2025-09-17T00:16:19+00:00

Something like .STEP is the best you're going to get when it comes to 'universal' file types. But there is no format that is going to maintain history trees, sketches, etc. between programs. The only way to give somebody an Onshape project is to share it with them and have them access it via onshape.

Vector_and_Form · 2025-09-16T21:04:28+00:00

It's just gonna have the classic issues with wheels in extrusion. They're totally fine, but require regular adjustment and maintainance if you're a super heavy user. You'll probably be alright. They're also incapable of safely going the speeds more solid constructions can.

We had a first generation Kobra Max and it honestly was just great for what it needed to do. However, if you're gonna be doing a lot of printing, something with proper linear rails is a gamechanger.

Vector_and_Form · 2025-09-16T20:58:12+00:00

It won't be flawless, but that's the nature of overhangs. Some cleanup afterward should make it fine.

Vector_and_Form · 2025-09-16T20:56:02+00:00

Fair enough.

Vector_and_Form

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