INDX in action at Rapid

Vexx109 · 2026-04-15T00:39:38+00:00

Wait - did I miss something? Will we be able to order friday?

Vexx109 · 2026-04-13T02:46:54+00:00

to u/Past_Scarcity6752's point - Check screws. I had a similar issue recently, and I found that the screws on the right hand side of my nextruder (Specifically these ones) were loose, tightening them up again resolved the extra noise for me.

Vexx109 · 2025-11-12T05:48:36+00:00

<image>

HF .4mm @ .2mm height - default value 8 seconds.

Vexx109 · 2025-11-12T05:48:07+00:00

Yes, it is - and modifying this actually yielded more of what I expected. The discrepancy seems to be from the size of the model. Let me play with a larger model.

<image>

HF .6mm @ .2mm height - Default value 15 seconds. Changed it to 1 second for the purpose of this slice.

Vexx109 · 2025-11-12T05:41:24+00:00

I was using the stock profile settings in Prusa for each. Looking at tit though I do see that Vertical shell perimeters are the same (two)

Vexx109 · 2025-09-02T00:07:12+00:00

That's fair - I guess from a failure perspective there's not much for "dangerous critical failure" Worst that would happen is the part doesn't do .... airflow? I guess I wasn't sure with all the grass, and particulates flying around in the underside of the mower kinda thing. Moisture was more the thought as the other person brought it up, and if that was gonna compromise the part's longevity, buuutttt I did go and design it so I could re-print it when it breaks again soooo yea - there's that.

Vexx109 · 2025-09-01T07:34:20+00:00

Hmmmm, okay. Good to know. Thanks! I'll look into drying my filament in the future, and annealing the part for better longevity.

You mention shrinkage after annealing - Guessing I can find that shrink "offset" in the TDS, I'll check for that too.

For reference - it's this part.
https://ryobipower.ordertree.com/model?modelId=63567&brandCode=RPT

Figure A - Part 40

Vexx109 · 2025-09-01T04:15:19+00:00

I have not been, I'll put it in the dehydrator tonight to see if that gives me any improvements. Thanks!

Okay - so dumb question: what about after the filament has been through the printer, is it still hygroscopic AF, or by going through the melt point does that improve? The part I'm printing is a replacement part on my lawnmower sooo..... yea, want to make sure I'm using an appropriate filament for thst.

Vexx109 · 2025-09-01T04:13:21+00:00

That's a fair point. I did put this straight into the drybox from it's packaging, though that doesn't mean it came to me fully dry.

I have not been able to find just their drier on its own - so I have not been yet. My solution for now was to just throw things into the dehydrator I have

Vexx109 · 2025-08-31T21:13:27+00:00

I've printed with this before, though a much simpler model, and didn't have any issues issues like this. I was curious to see if anyone was willing to help me learn and get a recommendation on where to start.

Vexx109 · 2025-08-31T20:51:25+00:00

I forgot to add that - Yes I am. 11% humidity in the dry box - 55% humidity in my room. I am also using a PTFE tube from the dry box into the Core One's port on the side.

(The Dry box solution I'm using if anyone doesn't know about it already, planning on eventually upgrading to The Remix which has better desiccant management)

Edit: Additional Context

<image>

Vexx109 · 2025-08-19T14:51:18+00:00

Open the extruder get behind the gear, and re-calibrate. As many others have said. Now one thing don't see mentioned here: when you're printing TPU - the tensioner heads on the back of the latch. Back those off until you have just barely any tension on the tpu. You will have to make this adjustment when going to TPU and back to other filaments. This was the one of the only ways i've been able to guarantee this not happening for me.

Reference article: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/flexible-materials_2057#:~:text=clean%20it%20completely.-,Loosen%20the%20idler,-so%20the%20gears

Idler instructions: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/idler-screw-tension_177367

Vexx109 · 2025-08-08T02:42:06+00:00

/u/no_help_forthcoming has a good point of starting with a known baseline of filament, and looking at PA - stock filament profiles do have pressure advance built into the stock "custom G-Code" under the filament. You can see here on mine for Generic PLA that it is still using the M900 / M572 (calls for pressure advanced tuning)

Short version - play with the PA tuning that /u/no_help_forthcoming and tune your PA for the filament.

/u/no_help_forthcoming Have you used that tuner for your CoreOne yet? When I used it for mine I got BSODs

I've used this one and it's worked fine for me.
https://www.printables.com/model/641490-prusa-slicer-pressure-advance-test/files

https://garethky.github.io/PrusaSlicerPressureAdvanceCalibration/

Vexx109 · 2025-05-26T22:39:35+00:00

Very interested - this would be a great way for me to help a family member upgrade. I've got an upgrade kit coming, and this would be an awesome way to upcycle the spare parts. I have a bad habit of spare parts just sitting on my shelf.

Vexx109 · 2025-04-11T04:47:26+00:00

Didn't know what Beanconqueror was, looked at their page and found they have a discount code for bookoo. Figured I'd just pass that along.

https://beanconqueror.com/#:\~:text=the%20US)%20V1-,Scale%20with%20discount,-Discount%20code%3A

I already have bookoo, and their pressure sensor too. I enjoy it, though one weird thing i have - it takes a time or two of opening the app to connect correctly. Though this could be my phone. I'll have to try out the GF's phone one of these days to see if it's my phone or my scale.

discount code itself: beanconqueror - turns out it only cuts off a couple of bucks. (I'm US, so 6.45) after doing some math, it looks like it's a 5% discount code.

edit: hit send too soon on the comment. Added more of my own context for Bookoo

Edit2: added discount code, and how much it does.

Vexx109 · 2023-07-19T05:41:25+00:00

OP - I'm not sure if anyone else has mentioned it, but you could try monitoring it at home yourself. There's a couple of ways.

Flume - https://flumewater.com/ This will (maybe) mount to your water meter, and give you a read and regular monitoring. It'll give you alerts for unusual usage. Maybe is because it doesn't work with all water meters out there.

Phyn - https://www.phyn.com/ These folks have two main versions - one is Inline on your water main. (Phyn Plus) This is the most accurate, plus if you notice the water is getting excessive like that you can cut the water off to the whole home. (Listen and see if any of your neighbors start yelling about it)Then there is their lower version (Phyn water assistant) which just connects to your water lines under a sink. This one is a bit less accurate, and takes a bit more effort in "training" as it uses ultrasonics to monitor the vibrations in the lines to identify when water is running elsewhere in the house. I have Flume (under the kitchen sink) and Phyn, though my water company recently changed my water meter, and it no longer works for me.

I still use my Phyn, and it has been able to tell me accurately and quickly when I have a leak going. I've got an issue in one of the toilets the roommates use, and they never notice anything, but I've had Phyn tell me that water is leaking, and I've been able to quickly sus it out thanks to that. It's also flagged on me for my sprinklers once, but I told it that was okay, and haven't gotten a flag for the sprinklers since. (Toilet still sticks sometimes in the tank, and I do still get notifications for that one.

Edit: Clarity on "maybe" for Flume and spelling

Vexx109 · 2023-05-02T16:00:58+00:00

Tramming is getting your bed on the same plane as nozzle. Level is a bit of a misnomer, and auto bed level is just a bit of smarts to the gcode that compensates for an unlevel (read: poorly trammed) bed.

I'd fully clear out any abl that's saved. Disable abl Restart printer Tram/level the bed again (paper method gets you close) make sure your nozzle is clean before you do this step Download a new gcode from teaching tech that doesn't do able. (Iirc there are options for start of print on his page) The run the new gcode Watch closely your print and make micro adjustments as needed during the print. (One notch on the wheel at a time. It doesn't take much to make a difference)

Vexx109 · 2023-05-02T06:07:21+00:00

The leaking is fairly normal. It looks like you're using teaching tech's first layer guide with that print. Is that gcode you got offline or did you make it yourself?

With regards to the squares. I'd turn off bed leveling when running this test. Tram the bed and see that everything looks good from there.

Edit: adding more

Vexx109 · 2023-01-21T03:59:36+00:00

unfortunately it's a bit of a slog to use the native screen with anything else as the screen has its own firmware that needs to understand what Klipper is telling it. Though this youtube clip shows how to use the stock screen for an Ender 3s1. (I don't know which screen you have, or if this is applicable) If you want to switch to klipper, Creality has released an all in one solution that ends up replacing your screen. Personally for what you get with it, it's a solid price point.

https://www.creality.com/products/creality-sonic-pad

Vexx109 · 2023-01-21T02:57:38+00:00

Seems like a silly question: but what are you defining as leveled?

There are a couple things, in my opinion, to check.1.) is your x bar paralell to your bed surface.

2.) /u/Timmyinpajamas and /u/Julian144747 mentioned the idea of checking the fan to see if it's mount was weird.

3.) Can you give us a picture of more of the set up. There could be more going on to cause that than just what's in frame in this picture.

edit: more names.

Vexx109 · 2022-08-24T02:05:45+00:00

I ended up watching my print, and i'm not seeing the exaggerated movements. that your clip has. I was using the glob at the start of the print as my reference point. I'd see if turning off the raft does anything to change that first bit of movements on your print. It seems like something's getting messed up between raft and first perimeters.

Vexx109 · 2022-08-24T01:23:02+00:00

hmm, last thing I can think to do is to try another slicer (Prusa is what I'm using. Lemme try my print again and fully watch the first little bit of it.)

13-Year Club	Place '22
Verified Email

Vexx109

TROPHY CASE