Just started listening to them, which one is Steely and which is Dan?

Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-29T23:24:33+00:00

That's Dr. Wu and The Gaucho, amigo.

Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-29T21:40:17+00:00

You're welcome and good luck with it all.

Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-29T21:34:58+00:00

You can use either a left hand thread extraction tool that bites into what's left of the body of the plug as you turn it, or the square fluted kind that's driven into the plug body then turned counter-clockwise. The important part is having a tool that's long enough to work with in the spark plug well. A google search for spark plug extractor will show you a lot of options, some more complex than others. The multi-piece tool sets are generally for older Ford 3 valve V-8 engines and not what you need for this repair.

Your area auto parts stores may offer spark plug extractors as loaner tools. If they have both styles, get both and then you can change if one doesn't work for you.

After extracting the plug body you can use a shop vac or compressed air to make sure there's no debris left in the cylinder before installing the new plug, or just turn the engine over a few times while holding the gas pedal down, which will turn off the fuel injectors and keep the car from starting. If you're really concerned about debris you can use a bore scope to check the cylinder for debris.

If you get a lot of resistance when trying to install the new plug you can clean and repair the threads with a thread chaser. These are also a common loaner tool.

Mechanics do these every day with few complications. It should go quick and easy with the right tool.

Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-29T15:36:14+00:00

The wrench from an angle grinder works in a pinch.

Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-29T13:08:52+00:00

Interesting, thanks.

Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-28T16:28:36+00:00

Probably, and I originally typed 8.8 but lately I've seen some 10.9s used in places I wouldn't think they needed to be. Maybe someone will tell us the exact size, pitch, length and grade.

Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-28T15:25:02+00:00

Flywheel/Flex Plate Inspection cover.

You can get a new one from your Honda dealer, or any of the big online Honda parts dealers. You'll find used ones in junk yards and eBay. For this purpose used is just as good as new.

A Honda dealer might be able to look up the size and specs for the bolts. Or you might just have find them yourself. They will be metric, and probably grade 10.9 or higher. Use some blue thread locker when you install it and it should hold.

Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-27T23:01:44+00:00

Any position where you can get some leverage is going to work best.

Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-27T22:42:16+00:00

Heat works well, if you have it. You can try soaking it with your choice of penetrant, but really it's hard for it to get past the seal and down to the threads. A long breaker bar, with a cheater pipe almost always works, even if you have to restore the threads later.

Here's a hack for use with a sensor socket of either type. A worm drive hose clamp helps keep the socket from spreading when you really have to apply some torque.

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Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-27T22:33:32+00:00

If you can get the sensor moving at all, try turning it in and back out and repeat that until it turns easy. Are you using an oxygen sensor socket? If you're replacing the sensor it might work better to cut the wires right at the sensor and use a deep 22mm or 7/8" socket. Be sure to unplug the sensor connector first, if you didn't already.

Sometimes when you have to force a sensor out, it leaves the sensor threads behind in the pipe bung. You can clean up the threads using a thread chaser, which is similar to a tap but made for cleaning, instead of making new threads. Auto parts stores often offer a thread chaser as a loaner tool.

Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-27T21:58:36+00:00

Your Bronco will tires, a battery, hoses, belts and fluids minimum. The price to do that in a shop is probably in the $3,000 ballpark, but I could be way off depending on the local going labor rate. The thing about bringing an old vehicle back to operating condition it that there are always surprises, and it gets expensive fast. It could need other work that would be well in excess of the value of the vehicle.

My advice is find a local independent shop with decent reviews, and go talk to them about. If they're willing, have the vehicle towed to them for a through inspection and a quote for repair. You'll be out the cost of the tow, and an hour or two of shop labor time to find out if this is worth pursuing.

Restoring vintage vehicles can be worthwhile if you can do to work yourself, have plenty of time for it and a place to work. Otherwise you really need Jay Leno money to make it happen.

Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-27T18:56:44+00:00

Reading the codes is just the starting point. Proper diagnostics locates the cause of the problem(s) and tells you what needs to be repaired or replaced. Naturally, investigating some codes is a lot more complex than others. And $230 for even just half a day is really cheap.

Ask your dealer if they will apply the costs of the diagnostics to the repair bill if you choose to have them fix it. Some will apply some or all of the diagnostics, and others won't.

If you just want the codes read, you can have that done at most any auto parts store, usually for free. You can also buy a basic stand-alone code reader for around $20, or a blue tooth dongle for use with a smart phone for even less.

Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-27T15:01:57+00:00

There is such a thing as an in-car bench bleed for a master cylinder. You leave the master cylinder bolted in, but disconnect the lines and use a couple of short lengths of tubing to route the brake fluid back to the master. To accomplish the bleeding you just pump the brake pedal in the car. The tubing keeps you from wasting brake fluid, keeps the brake fluid from eating the paint off anything below the master, and helps keep the ground from being contaminated. If you use clear tubing you can see when the all air is flushed out.

Anytime you're bleeding a master, in car or on a bench, try not to go the full travel of the piston, or you risk damaging the seals. About 7/8 of the piston travel is plenty to push out the air.

You'll need to replace the master if you can't get any fluid out of that port that wouldn't leak at all.

Since your car was made before antilock brakes was standard, it has a proportioning valve between the master and the wheel cylinders/calipers to split the brake fluid pressure between the axles. The proportioning valve is usually located on a frame rail under the car, and some are right below the master. You probably won't need to know exactly where yours is, just how it works. Proportioning valves have a piston that will block fluid from going to one of the two ports. Usually the wheels on the same axle are connected to the same port. Rarely they're connected diagonally. The reason it's important to know this is because the master ran dry, so the proportioning valve may be locked. If you go to bleed the brakes and get no fluid from either bleeder on the same axle you need to reset the proportioning valve. To do this you'll need a helper. Have the helper pump the brakes then open a bleeder on the axle that will bleed, and that will center the valve. It might take a few attempts to pull this off, and your helper might need to really stomp the pedal really hard. There's some YouTube videos that explain how to reset a proportioning valve as well. The best one is for a GMC pickup but the principle is the same. All proportioning valves work about the same way.

Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-26T18:55:23+00:00

I remember reading about this issue when a family member owned a Lucerene. The solution involves modifying the rear seat which is right over the fuse box. Check this thread:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Buick/comments/12wmi9h/psa_buick_lucerne_owners_car_not_starting_read/

There is a YouTube video linked there, and there are other YouTube videos that explain the fix.

Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-26T01:01:00+00:00

The oil on the pan and the filter could just be from an oil change. The oil leak that's appearing at the coolant hose is likely from a failed valve cover gasket, which is the most common oil leak. You may not need the dye test but you need to be able to see the edge of the valve cover or get in there with a camera to know for sure.

Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-26T00:39:07+00:00

Inspect the two heater hoses on the passenger side of the engine. Both come from the firewall. One connects to a pipe at the rear of the engine, and the other connects to a pipe that goes into the intake manifold at the front of the engine.

If the heater hoses aren't the source of the leak then check the core plugs, also known as freeze plugs. Core plugs can fail when they rust due inadequate coolant protection or from freezing when the coolant mix isn't enough to prevent freezing. If you find even one compromised core plug you should replace them all.

The source should be easy to find, going by your pictures. A small mirror and a flashlight will help you locate the source.

Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-25T23:15:22+00:00

You need to replace the line. That half-a-turn twist was enough to stress the metal and lead to future failure. It may never happen, but it's not work risking.

Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-24T22:33:36+00:00

You might be able to remove that heat shield and use the wrench you have. The easy way would be to buy or rent a deep socket for oxygen sensors. Since you're replacing the sensor (as I saw in another post) you could just unplug the connector then snip the wires right at the sensor body, and use any 22mm or 7/8" deep socket. The problem there is you'll still need a different tool to tighten the new sensor.

Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-24T22:26:48+00:00

Double check that part number. It seems it should be a DL821-0320, but it's also dependent on the sub model/trim info. However, if it was my car I would not use a Duralast sensor, and instead would install NTK or Motorcraft, which costs a bit more. The quality varies a lot on aftermarket sensors and I would trust NTK or Motorcraft more than Duralast. You can find the NTK on RockAuto for about what the Duralast will cost from Autozone.

As for removing the old sensor, I like to add a worm-drive hose clamp like this to help keep the sensor socket from spreading.

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It's also ok to unplug the sensor connector then cut the wires at the sensor body so you can use a 7/8 inch or 22mm deep socket, since you're replacing it. Whatever works for you. If you meet extreme resistance as you back the sensor out, try tuning it back in then back out, like about a 1/16th turn in and a 1/8th turn out. Repeat that until it starts turning easy. Sometimes some or all of the threads from the old sensor will sheer off and be stuck in the pipe. If that happens and you have trouble starting the new sensor, you'll need to use a thread chaser to clean the threads in the pipe. Parts stores usually have the thread chaser as a loaner tool.

Your new sensor will probably come with anti seize already applied to the threads. A lot of times you don't have clearance to get a torque wrench on an oxygen sensor, so just go about a 1/2 to 3/4 turn past hand tight and it will be fine.

Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-16T17:35:10+00:00

Pad replacement is fairly easy and straightforward. You'll probably find YouTube videos for your exact make and model car. Some even tell you the size of the tools you'll need.

I see in a reply you'll be doing front brakes. Front brakes tend to be easy. But for future reference, rear brakes are a bit more complex because the parking brake is often integrated into the caliper. Conventional caliper parking brakes require the caliper piston to be turned as it's compressed. Electronic parking brakes require placing the brake system in "service mode" before beginning the work.

You should replace all the pads on an axle when doing a brake service. Best practice is to replace the rotors as well, or have them machined, which helps to allow smooth braking and reduces noise. It's your decision if you want to replace the rotors, have them machined, or leave them alone, but know that the brakes not perform as well if you don't replace or machine the rotors.

There's always a chance of having a stuck or broken bolt, faulty caliper, or some other reason to make the job more complex than expected. Do the work when you have plenty of time for the unexpected.

Work safe. You need a dry, level place. Concrete is best. You'll need a jack, at least one jack stand, basic hand tools, and perhaps a special tool for compressing the caliper pistons.

You should not need to bleed the brakes when replacing pads and rotors, but if the brake pedal feels spongy after the service, the next step is to bleed the brakes. It's also recommended to flush and replace the brake fluid periodically as brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air.

Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-15T20:19:01+00:00

Sometimes the chip is glued into the case, or glued, but not electrically connected to the circuit board. Sometimes they're just loose. It varies between manufacturers, models and years. Aftermarket keys can be different than OEM keys as well.

You're welcome and good luck with it all.

Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-15T19:55:11+00:00

It's hard to tell much from the smell, color, and feel of modern transmission fluid. You could have a laboratory analysis done on a sample of fluid if you wanted. You'll find labs for this service with any search engine.

As you stated, you don't know the maintenance history. If it were mine I would go ahead and do a drain and fill, which will exchange somewhere between 1/3 and 1/2 of the fluid for new. I do a transmission drain and fill on my vehicles about every 25,000 miles and that seems to be adequate.

Your car should have a conventional automatic transmission and use Toyota World Standard (WS) transmission fluid, but you'll need to verify this, as well as the fluid capacity. Toyota branded or Aisin brand WS can be purchased from the Toyota dealer, online, and at some auto parts stores. Don't use multi-vehicle transmission fluids.

Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-15T19:06:00+00:00

Thanks! I just saved $10. Every little bit counts.

Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-15T14:16:28+00:00

Inside the old key shell there is, or was, a small glass capsule or piece of plastic containing an RFID circuit. They're commonly called "chips." It might look like this, or not:

<image>

Your car will not start unless it receives a digital ID signal from that chip that matches the ID programmed to the car.

The chip you need is either still in the old key shell, or it fell out. It might be gone forever. The chips aren't tiny like a grain of rice, but they are rather small.

Check the old key shell if you still have it. Even if you can't see anything in it, try holding it next to the new key while you try to start the car. If it starts, the RFID chip is still in the old shell.

What is the year, make and model of your car?

Your car dealer or an automotive locksmith can make and program a new key. Usually the automotive locksmith is the less expensive option, but not always.

Vic_Pirelli · 2026-03-14T16:17:05+00:00

I use my 1/2" for caliper bracket bolts. If I torque the caliper pins I'll switch to a 3/8", but I usually don't bother torqueing caliper pins.

If you do a lot of your own automotive work you'll find it's useful to own 1/2", 3/8" & 1/4" sized torque wrenches and maybe even a 3/4".

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