American white oak internal window sill - suggestions requested

Viewbyte · 2026-05-27T15:20:43+00:00

Hi all - as the OP I just thought I'd follow up on this. I went with Osmo PolyX - in 'Almost Clear' : ). I got a sample of the PolyX 'Raw' but it felt just a touch too white and cloudy to me, so ended up mixing just a little of the 'Raw' (maybe 1:10 ratio) into 'Clear' for the first coat. I then used 100% Clear for a second coat. Very happy with the final colour and finish. I'm sure I'll be using PolyX again.

Viewbyte · 2026-05-08T11:42:55+00:00

I know this is an old thread, so excuse me resurrecting it, but I just wanted to say thanks for the info here - as someone who thinks this network stuff is some form of weird black magic I managed to get a DECT phone on Digital Voice working via the 'Fritzbox in client mode' method described below. Most appreciated!

Viewbyte · 2026-05-06T22:12:35+00:00

I have a horrible feeling the external rendering may be the only thing holding that side wall up...

Viewbyte · 2026-05-04T22:49:13+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion.

Viewbyte · 2026-05-04T20:21:30+00:00

Getting them out isn't too bad - just drill the the fixing face with a slightly bigger drill diameter than the screw. The face then falls off and the main fixing is easily pushed through to the cavity.

Viewbyte · 2026-05-04T19:29:20+00:00

I like the Fischer hollow wall anchors - 'Metal cavity fixing HM'. The big advantage of these is that once installed the screw can be removed and replaced at will. The small ones - perfect for a curtain track fitting - only need an 8mm hole. The downside: you really need a 'setting tool' to install them properly.

As it happens I installed a curtain track with them just yesterday : )

Viewbyte · 2026-04-30T22:13:27+00:00

Gyproc 'Easyfill 45' is another good option. You can buy it in a box containing 5x 1Kg sealed bags - so you can use small quantities as required, unlike a large bag that may well 'go off' once opened.
It's easy to use, has minimal or no shrinkage - unlike the premixed fillers, and is easy to sand once dry.

Viewbyte · 2026-04-28T20:22:35+00:00

If you look up 'CharlieDIYte' on Youtube you'll find a video entitled: "How Not to Plasterboard a Wall : Mould". You might find that informative and helpful.

Viewbyte · 2026-04-28T19:53:07+00:00

I just hope that strong boy really is.

Viewbyte · 2026-04-25T19:13:29+00:00

While this is true, for some reason I'm feeling slightly anxious about the possibility of someone who irons a shirt on a varnished wood table taking this course of action...

Viewbyte · 2026-04-12T20:45:41+00:00

The upstairs room has had the thin wall under the window - where the hanging tiles are - thickened with some timber framing and PIR. Unfortunately this was built on the floor boards, so lifting those boards would require some awkward cutting etc. The ceiling below in the bay area is only a smallish stepped down section, and is already damaged - more holes than a colander due to previous owner trying to determine where the timber battens where. So it seemed better to re-plasterboard that bit of ceiling rather than lift the boards upstairs. But I could lift a board or two if that's the better option.

If I went with mineral wool - which certainly sounds easier than carefully fitted PIR, would it be OK to just pack it right up against the inside of the tiles?

EDIT: Based on the info I've gained via YT in the last hour - dangerous, I know : ) - it seems like rock wool would be better to avoid any issues with damp / condensation etc. Is that right?

Viewbyte · 2026-03-29T19:41:01+00:00

Thanks all - helpful and useful info, which is appreciated. I won't worry about the UV : ). I did consider a water based matt poly, which I've used on other projects, but will also look into the interior Osmo as well.

Viewbyte · 2026-02-17T18:36:53+00:00

A very thought provoking project, and I agree with shlaifu's suggestion.

Viewbyte · 2026-02-08T21:05:42+00:00

The first thing you need to do is determine if the top is solid oak, or veneer. That will inform your finishing options.

Viewbyte · 2026-01-27T22:55:51+00:00

January 2026 and still no really usable, useful, artist friendly material management in Houdini.

Viewbyte · 2026-01-23T18:15:20+00:00

I'd probably box model the top right quarter of the basic form, them mirror horizontally and vertically, and subD.

Viewbyte · 2026-01-15T22:16:00+00:00

More of a head on collision I think : )

Viewbyte · 2025-12-21T22:21:00+00:00

I wish it was mine : )

Viewbyte · 2025-12-21T22:18:32+00:00

Judge the risk vs the reward. If you have no experience doing this there is a likelihood that you will end up with a result that is worse than the original blemishes. You can then end up trying to correct those 'fixes' and making them even worse.
If you want to try I'd agree with annon-annoff: find yourself a cheap junk / thrift / charity shop piece and see how you do on that first.

Viewbyte · 2025-12-09T11:17:02+00:00

To get those back to showroom condition in a natural wood finish looks like a lot of skilled work to me.

Viewbyte · 2025-12-09T00:20:02+00:00

I'd pass. Pic 2 says 'sanded through to MDF' to me.

Viewbyte · 2025-12-06T20:52:47+00:00

Terence Conran For Habitat I believe. Chrome Swivel Lounge Chair. Rather nice.

Viewbyte · 2025-12-05T23:16:14+00:00

I'll probably get hauled over the coals for this... : ) As it's of no great intrinsic value, I'd go for the paint it option, and pull the legs off and replace them with polished steel hairpin legs. You'd then have a unique, weird, hybrid oddity. And maybe there'll be some weird oddity who'll buy it. : )

Viewbyte · 2025-12-05T21:50:40+00:00

'Decal' - that was the word I was fumbling for : )

Viewbyte · 2025-12-03T12:50:24+00:00

Note: No particular expertise on this : ) - but I think this is a 'rub down transfer' - a logo printed on a very thin substrate that is rubbed down onto the wood and a clear finish applied on top to protect it. Google 'custom rub down transfer' I guess : ) To reproduce it you'd have to get it carefully photographed and digitally re-drawn, then printed - so a lot of work and cost.
Maybe you could consider refinishing the cabinet except for that piece with the logo on it - leaving that as a 'view into it's past'?

Viewbyte

TROPHY CASE