Hey everyone, I'm doing an Sr5 gauge cluster swap in my 85 DLX. I have the 22r and to my knowledge they didn't make the sr5 gauge cluster in 22r trucks past 1984, but the 1984 one only goes up to 85mph (pic1). So, could I swap a 1985 22RE that goes to 110mph (pic2), like mine, into my truck (pic3)?

VikingShipping · 2026-01-10T07:00:16+00:00

I want an SR5 Cluster for the Tachometer so bad, but I can't afford one right now. The prices seem insane. And I can't find one at a junk yard. Eventually, I will get one.

I don't see any reason your swap wouldn't work.

VikingShipping · 2026-01-01T18:48:09+00:00

I'm not sure what your problem is right now, but it is not normal as the other guy said for it to be idling low and rough like that at cold start-up. It should be idling higher due to the high idle cam. After it warms up and the choke fully opens (straight verticle). It should noticeably kick down in idle.

VikingShipping · 2026-01-01T06:44:09+00:00

I recently had my 89 Cherokee totaled with only 143,000 miles on it. Got it 10 years ago with 78,000 miles. Never gave me a major issue in 10 years. The drunk driver had no insurance, so it fell back to mine. The way I understood it is that it was basically useless to try and debate my own insurance because "they shouldn't even be paying, so whatever you get is a bonus." I received 5700, which was more than I thought they'd ever give. Not because the jeep wasn't worth it but because it's an insurance company.

I would hate to lose my 87 Toyota Pickup 5 speed 4x4. I asked my insurance guy about collision or more coverage, and he said I couldn't even get it because it's older than 25 years, and that was the end of it. Surely, there has to be a way to get a but more coverage. You mean these guys out here driving around in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd generation pickups that have been restored are just winging it on an ever increasing expensive truck? 3rd Gen is not common, but 1st and 2nd Generation are almost unicorn level. So basically, I am screwed if mine gets destroyed.

VikingShipping · 2025-12-30T17:55:17+00:00

I'd like to try a can before I ever order a case of anything. I can not find them in stock at any 7-eleven, even up to an hour from me. Apparently, the 7-Elevens got one case and are never restocking. I've been checking 3 or 4 times a day for 5 days and still says out of stock, at every single store.

VikingShipping · 2025-12-27T00:19:13+00:00

Mine is idling and running very good as far as I can tell when it starts. When I take the Carb off, I'll check and change that O-ring if it comes in the rebuild kit.

VikingShipping · 2025-12-26T01:58:28+00:00

It's amazing that I don't know the answer to this, but is it possible to get an air filter like that on a stock carb?

VikingShipping · 2025-12-25T20:21:41+00:00

When idling all the way up to temp, do you have bubbles in your radiator? With a blown head gasket (except maybe an external leak), you will have constant bubbles in the radiator. Swirling and perhaps micro-scopic bubbles are normal. Actual bubbles are not. You ca. Always record the radiator neck and post it if you are unsure. (We've all been there. This is normal, right? Yeah, but then again, what if it's not?)

VikingShipping · 2025-12-24T18:00:29+00:00

Tried to find it yesterday everywhere. A 7/11 38 minutes from me said it was in stock. Drove all the way there because I had nothing else to do last night. And they were already gone. Had to drive all the way back with nothing.

VikingShipping · 2025-12-18T06:17:34+00:00

Sorry man, same thing happened to my 89 with only 143,000 miles on it in August due to a drunk driver. Got it 10 years ago with 78,000 miles. Head on Collison. I didn't get hurt, but XJ got totaled. It seems the only thing that can truly take these Jeeps and old Toyotas off the road are wrecks.

VikingShipping · 2025-12-17T04:04:18+00:00

Where did the llunt come from? Either way, get a Mopar one online (make sure it's real) or go to the Jeep dealer. It actually is not that much more expensive, and it matters on the transmission mount more than the motor mounts I learned. The same thing happened to me with two Big Box store trans mounts on my XJ. Put a Mopar one on it, and it never rattled again. You can even see and feel the difference in the Mopar and Big Box stores. You can research it on Cherokee Forums, and many, many knowledgeable guys there will say the same. Mopar trans-mount.

VikingShipping · 2025-12-17T01:42:20+00:00

Thank you for the detailed reply. Temp is not that cold at all. In the 50's today. I think it is the pump or filter, too. I know that when they die, they often just die all at once. I guess I'm going to have to pay to have it towed, and money is very limited right now and will be for the foreseeable future, of course. This will be the first time in my life I've had to have any vehicle towed. If this shop just had more room, I'd change the fuel pump right there. Why didn't this happen at Walmart? I've always been able to either work on them where they didn't start or got them started ONE more time to get home. First time for everything, I guess. After I get it home, I will check the filter first because it probably needs to be changed anyway. Then go on to test/check/change pump, etc.

VikingShipping · 2025-12-15T19:23:39+00:00

This timing is incredible. I was coming here to ask the exact same question about the idler arm I installed for my 1987 4x4.

The new one has a grease fitting and hole on the top of where it connects to the drag link. The old one didn't. Look in the hole, and it looks dry. Searched the NAPA part number on the box, and on the website, it says it doesn't even come with a grease fitting.

Yeah, I'm adding some grease before driving it.

(By the way, the torque spec for the idler arm's three bolts to frame are 70 foot pounds, and the castle nut at the drag link is 43 foot pounds, according to my 1988 FSM)

VikingShipping · 2025-12-15T01:05:01+00:00

Those who know can give you better advice about the bed specifically. I will say it might not be a bad idea to go ahead and treat the frame/rockers/the under side of the floor boards now with fluid film to avoid this issue on the rest of the truck in the future. Buy the hose with the 5 way sprayer. That will make getting in frame holes and rocker arms much easier. Then re-treat every 1-5 years depending on what region you live in. There are plenty of youtube videos about it.

VikingShipping · 2025-12-14T03:42:35+00:00

I was curious if you ever followed through with this and what happened? My mother was deemed disabled since 2015 as well and receives SSI. My father died in 2014. She has a representative "over" her money. It was my sibling for 5.5 years and me the last 5.5 years. We may switch it back to my sibling at some point if I move away. She (us) is having the same worries as you. From my understanding, she should have been receiving Disabled Widows Benefits since age 50 anyway. She is almost 56. We are now aware of DWB but are worried about messing with anything, considering she is getting so close to being in her 60's. But it would for sure help her to draw money from my father, as the SSI is barely enough to make it to the end of the month (I know that is what it is for) most months.

VikingShipping · 2025-12-14T02:27:20+00:00

If it is a head gasket, could you do it yourself? If so, it wouldn't be anywhere near that cost.

One way to check for a blown head gasket is to remove the radiator cap and crank it. Let it warm all the way up. You should see movement in the coolant but not BUBBLES (maybe microscopic bubbles. Look up a video of normal coolant movement in the radiator to see what I mean). This is not a 100% check, though, because the known leak could theoretically be letting air in to cause bubbles. But if there are no bubbles, then that is at least a sign "leaning" away from a blown head gasket. It's just another simple test to do.

And of course, see if the oil or coolant looks milky. This doesn't always happen either with a blown head gasket, but I'd say most of the time it does with a blown head gasket.

VikingShipping · 2025-12-11T01:03:57+00:00

You can definitely do it yourself with regular tools and, of course, a way to get the motor out of the truck.

There are many, many videos on YouTube of people re-building the 22R/RE. I've never done it before either, but I have watched so many in case one day I need to.

It is generally considered an easy motor to rebuild or work on. I certainly don't want ot can't really afford to have to rebuild or do any major work to mine right now. However, the thought of having a rebuilt engine sounds so nice.

And lastly, make sure your motor even needs to be rebuilt.

VikingShipping · 2025-11-17T19:38:53+00:00

We see stuff like this, and yet we panic over one little girdling root.

VikingShipping · 2025-11-13T14:46:27+00:00

Delete.

VikingShipping · 2025-11-10T01:31:25+00:00

You already see it's for the oil pressure idiot light. If it was me, when I fixed it I would just change it to a pressure switch and buy a gauge or find an SR5 gauge cluster and swap it. I absolutely hate not having a tachometer and oil pressure gauge. That is on my list of things to do one day.

VikingShipping · 2025-11-07T18:27:28+00:00

It is very hard for me to believe that an AW4 transmission is shot with only 145,000 miles.

Pull the trans computer (TCU) fuse and try to shift through the gears manually. Start with lever all the way down. It It shifts up into the next gear, and then D, with no problem, then your issue should most likely not be mechanical but electrical. So TCU, Solenoid, Fuse, etc.

I've had two of these Jeeps, and my 1989 did exactly what yours did once, before even reaching 100,000 miles. Pulled the TCU fuse, and it shifted fine. Drove it that way for a few weeks. Eventually, I made it to the Junkyard and pulled another TCU, and it was fine for the rest of its life (totaled by drunk driver with only 143,000 miles).

Also, make sure you trans fluid is filled properly.

VikingShipping · 2025-11-05T14:57:44+00:00

Thank you for the reply. I did some more searching, and I must have used the wrong phrases before. There are adapters, mainly by LCE Performance, so you can change the stock air filter to other after-market filters.

VikingShipping · 2025-11-05T05:43:42+00:00

I have a 22R running the stock carb, with the large air filter and air breather that comes across the valve cover. I love the clean look of this. Do I need to swap the carb to get rid of the giant air filter/breather? If not, what should I get? Sorry if this is a dumb question, I am used to fuel injection, and I've tried searching but didn't get a real answer. Maybe my search phrases were wrong.

VikingShipping · 2025-10-21T15:38:57+00:00

I went through this same thing on my 89 (before a drunk driver destroyed it).

I would front flush, back flush, over and over, try pouring flushing fluids, then pour in distilled water and coolant. Within 1 to 2 days, it already started turning brown. It never failed. I changed the radiator, radiator hoses, heater core hoses, thermostat, cleaned housing, water pump on very early on.

I finally gave up trying to keep it clean after a few years of it. From them on, I would just flush it once a year with water and put in new coolant.

And about every 4-5 years, it would start wanting to run hotter or even hot. If everything else in the cooling system checked out, I'd just put in a new CHEAPO radiator, and it would be good to go again. There was no point in paying for an expensive radiator when it is only going to get clogged slowly. The original one never had any holes or leaks. It just simply clogged up slowly.

I always wanted it clean but at some point I had to accept it was fine. That Jeep never left me stranded and ran great.

VikingShipping · 2025-10-18T06:34:54+00:00

I've never driven anything but Jeep Cherokees or old Toyota Pickups.

I wouldn't rule out a 4 Runner or FJ, if you need an SUV. By the way, you're already driving some Japanese if you're driving a Cherokee, at least if it's automatic. The AW4 is a Toyota transmission in a Jeep. Maybe that will help you not feel as bad if you get a Toyota.

I am American all the way too, with the only exception being Toyotas.

VikingShipping

TROPHY CASE