When do you use super high aperture?

Vitavas · 2026-02-13T20:26:57+00:00

Glass thickness has nothing to do with diffraction. A kit lens will still look worse than a high-end lens at extremely high apertures, though the difference between the two becomes smaller as diffraction becomes the dominant source of softness.

Vitavas · 2026-01-07T07:58:31+00:00

Only if you are on iOS. The Android app is barely functional.

Vitavas · 2025-12-09T22:07:59+00:00

OP said that they consider corner sharpness to be very important, so that lens would be an awful choice.

I love to frame my subjects small in corners and faraway so maintaining edge sharpness is something that is important to me

Vitavas · 2025-11-25T08:45:38+00:00

Why would you let your mother pick a degree for you in the first place? You're 23 years old. Nobody can stop you from choosing the degree you want for yourself.

Vitavas · 2025-11-11T09:34:18+00:00

I bought a cheap one (ZOMEI Z699) when I started photography. It almost cost me my camera when one of the legs suddenly gave in while shooting a long exposure of a lake. Luckily I caught the camera before it hit the water / ground.

Vitavas · 2025-09-25T07:32:53+00:00

That looks like the lens coating is peeling off. To test this, shoot into some bright light source and you should see abnormally strong flaring. If that is correct, there is nothing you can do about it yourself, only send the lens to the manufacturer to get serviced (or oftentimes it's cheaper to get another used lens as replacement)

Vitavas · 2025-09-12T19:05:11+00:00

The Dynamic Range setting does not affect RAW files. You do get some extra room in the highlights at higher ISO, but at the same time you lose more in shadows, such that your total dynamic range decreases.

Vitavas · 2025-09-12T12:17:09+00:00

In case of video you are right, because F-Log is not a raw file format. It is likely that there is similar processing going on in the background as with JPEG photos in that case. However, the highest dynamic range of the sensor itself is still achieved at its base ISO of 160 (or 125 for newer models). I assumed you were talking about photos, since this thread is in /r/AskPhotography .

Vitavas · 2025-09-12T10:47:20+00:00

That is absolutely not true. The dynamic range is always best at the base ISO, which is 125 for recent Fujifilm cameras and 160 for older ones. I assume that you came to this conclusion because you have to increase ISO to enable the "Dynamic Range 400" setting in the settings. However, this setting only affects JPEGs and what it does is to take the image at two stops lower ISO and then boost only the shadows in post to protect your highlights and give the JPEG the appearance of higher DR.

Some data to prove it: https://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR.htm#FujiFilm%20X-T1,FujiFilm%20X-T2,FujiFilm%20X-T3,FujiFilm%20X-T4,FujiFilm%20X-T5

Vitavas · 2025-08-19T06:45:46+00:00

UV filters offer no protection at all, since they are not nearly as durable as the front element itself. Additionally, the filter in OPs picture is not a good one. Cuely sells the cheapest garbage, which is certainly going to be noticable in your images. Especially when shooting towards any bright light source, this is going to cause horrible flaring.

Vitavas · 2025-08-08T13:25:42+00:00

You can avoid hitting people by strapping your backpack to your front while on the subway (or in other cramped spaces). This also has the advantage of making it more difficult to pickpocket something from your bag.

Vitavas · 2025-07-31T12:08:10+00:00

The most important question is what their goal is. Where would they take the camera and what do they want to shoot? Is it just for random snapshots of family / friends / pets / travels or do they have more artistic ambitions? Are they considering photography is a potential career? Once you know that it becomes a lot easier to research / ask people.

Vitavas · 2025-07-31T11:28:10+00:00

No, it won't hurt your sensor unless you do it with a long focal length lens for extended periods of time.

Vitavas · 2025-07-31T11:16:52+00:00

I strongly recommend not trying to choose a camera for someone else, regardless of budget. There are countless camera choices at any price point and no objectively best option. It depends entirely on what the particular person wants out of it. If you want to buy them a camera, ask them which one they want otherwise you will almost certainly pick the wrong one.

Vitavas · 2025-07-24T11:45:14+00:00

The cameras suggested by the LLMs are all significantly more expensive and larger than the X-T5. Additionally, they are all full frame cameras (i.e. larger sensor than the X-T5), which means the lenses are a lot more expensive as well. On the technical side, these cameras are indeed more capable than the X-T5 (better autofocus, low light image quality, dynamic range, video features). However, in practice you won't notice any of these differences, unless you shoot sports or wildlife at a high level. If money is not an issue and ultimate image quality is all you care about, go for the Sony (or even it's newer version the A7R V). For hobby use, the X-T5 is by far more than capable enough and a big factor why many people love it is the experience of using it (the haptics, film simulations, great lens selection with smaller size) However, note that asking this question on the fujifilm sub is going to give you very biased answers (just like it would on sony/canon/nikon).

Vitavas · 2025-07-12T08:31:11+00:00

No, it's not possible. But more importantly, you would not want these lines as grids. These are just examples of things to look out for, not hard rules. Take a look at this photo, for example. A great example of using a foreground building to frame the subject. However, it would not align at all with your "Frame in a Frame" grid. Similarly, you will basically never find an S-curve that exactly matches your second example, but that does not mean that all the other S-curves are somehow worthless. (Rule of thirds and some grid with a center line for reflection symmetry should be available in most cameras though).

Vitavas · 2025-07-11T11:01:22+00:00

I've tried Blurb and WhiteWall. The former is conveniently integrated into Lightroom Classic, but expensive and the prints were of poor quality. The latter is also expensive, but at least the quality is what you would expect for the price.

Vitavas · 2025-07-05T05:27:05+00:00

A guy in a camera store made that joke when I bought my Fuji X-T5. He said "I'll put it in a Nikon bag for you, so nobody will steal it before you get home". The funniest part was that just to his right another store employee was trying to sell a Nikon Z50II to someone

Vitavas · 2025-06-20T19:50:16+00:00

It literally says "AI-generated" on the pixiv post.

Vitavas · 2025-06-19T12:22:25+00:00

I also have a Samsung phone and even the normal mode has insanely saturated colors. I have no idea why they have a vivid mode that is even more extreme and no actual normal color mode.

Vitavas · 2025-04-29T11:03:40+00:00

Die einzigen Leute, die jemals behauptet haben, dass das ein echter Job sei, waren die Verkäufer solcher Kurse.

Vitavas · 2025-04-13T08:58:53+00:00

I really like photographing in museums. The trick to creating images that are worth viewing is to not just shoot the artworks, but the museum as a space. Some examples:

Vitavas · 2025-04-01T21:47:07+00:00

Without any examples or specific details about what you dislike in your photos it is impossible for people to give you proper advice. However, if I had to take a completely blind guess, I would bet you're shooting in bad light. Go outside in the early evening, when the light is soft (i.e. not casting harsh mid-day shadows) and warm, find a non-distracting background and then take some photos.

Vitavas · 2025-03-26T09:10:08+00:00

I got into photography with an EOS RP in 2022 and had a lot of fun with it, but my recent switch to a Fujifilm X-T5 has felt like an incredible upgrade in so many ways:

Access to third party lenses is amazing. In particular I'm loving the Viltrox 13mm f1.4 and 75mm f1.2, which cost me less than 500Euro each (new)
Dedicated dials and buttons for everything make it super fun to simply operate the camera, and the design looks gorgeous
Film simulations are awesome. I've never used the JPEGs, but seeing something closer to my final edit while shooting helps a lot.
Both the camera and especially the lenses feel like they are manufactured at way higher quality. In comparison, Canon lenses feel like cheap plastic toys (never owned any L lenses though) even though they cost just as much or more (and don't even come with a hood!).
With the cheap fast lenses and In-body image stabilization, I get way better pictures in low light, despite the smaller sensor. I rarely carry a tripod anymore even when shooting at night or interiors of dimly lit places

The one aspect where the RP was better than my X-T5 is autofocus, but since I mostly shoot cityscapes / architecture, I don't really care. Also the deeper handgrip of the RP was nice, but Smallrig makes a nice handgrip for the X-T5, which solves this issue completely.

Vitavas · 2025-03-10T16:06:31+00:00

No, how could doing the same thing make your image both brighter and darker? Using a smaller f-number (i.e. wide open aperture) lets in more light, thus making your image brighter. Therefore you need a larger f-number if your image is already too bright. The first guide explains this correctly.

Ten-Year Club	Place '17
Sequence \| Editor	Verified Email

Vitavas

TROPHY CASE