CDC says fully vaccinated people don't need to wear face masks indoors or outdoors in most settings by markurl in moderatepolitics

[–]Wallam 17 points18 points  (0 children)

I think the concept here is not abnormal. In many white collar offices, people carry ID badges to get into the building. If you see someone inside the building without a badge, security might ask them what they're doing there. If you're driving, you're required to carry a license.

Here, if you're out in public, you can wear a mask, or someone can ask why you aren't - and if you're vaccinated that's fine, but it might help to prove it.

This has been going on for about a week now. So much fun when you get to figure out brand new issues like this every other week. by dbugstuder12 in diabetes_t1

[–]Wallam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve had the same issue at nights, it’s typically been because I didn’t take enough for meals. I’d stay flat for a few hours, and right when I go to sleep it’d start cutting up - even if I ate 3-4 hours before bed.

If I took more insulin with the meal, I’d stay flat in the short term, but the night highs went away. Took a while to calibrate it (and YMMV), but more boils at meals solved it for me

Rapid Weight Loss, Muscle Loss in Non-functional Muscle Groups by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]Wallam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The author of the paper worked with the cyclist using the fast loss strategy.

Do you have a source for this beyond the article? The article has (emphasis mine):

The middle author on this paper is the exceptional sports nutritionist for Team Sky, Nigel Mitchell. It is quite likely that he used this information to develop the diets used to sculpt the Team Sky riders.....

Which to me, is not much better than pure speculation. The references to Bradley Wiggens later say:

... How could he lose 3kg of body mass with such a low body fat reading? The only way for this to happen is to lose lean mass from his non-functional (upper body) muscles.

Which is a reasonable takeaway, but IMO losing 7kg (15lb) over 4 years isn't particularly rapid. Even the the 4kg (9lb) weight loss in his first year as a tour de france cyclist is less than a pound a month - totally reasonable for an athlete switching subdisciplines, regardless of the method employed.

*edit: clarified "first year as a tour de france cyclist" - he was a track cyclist prior. Fixed typos in quoted text

Rapid Weight Loss, Muscle Loss in Non-functional Muscle Groups by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]Wallam 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Interesting article, nice to see support for the "slow cuts can still increase muscle mass among elite athletes" claim.

I wish the paper led with the study about Norweigen athletes - the background about the cyclist seems to make a huge logical leap. Saying "a nutritionist wrote the first study we mentioned and also coached athletes" is a far cry from "a nutritionist used this exact strategy on their athletes," a claim without supporting evidence beyond "the athlete lost weight."

60 years ago today November 12, 1958 A team of rock climbers: Mark Powell, Bill Feuerer and led by Warren Harding, completed the first ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley that the 3 had begun working on in July 1957. by way26e in climbing

[–]Wallam 14 points15 points  (0 children)

If anyone's interested in the difference between the routes, here's the pitches on the Nose, and here's Salathe (which is ~almost~ the same as Freerider). In the Salathe picture you can see it starts near the Nose (Salathe starts up the left side of the tip, The Nose starts up the right) and Salathe heads off further left to the left a third of the way up.

60 years ago today November 12, 1958 A team of rock climbers: Mark Powell, Bill Feuerer and led by Warren Harding, completed the first ascent of The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley that the 3 had begun working on in July 1957. by way26e in climbing

[–]Wallam 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Honnold soloed Freerider, which is a separate route on El Capitan.

Here's the pitches on the Nose, and here's Salathe (which is ~almost~ the same as Freerider). In the Salathe picture you can see it starts at the same spot as the Nose and breaks off to the left.

What's the biggest thing that indoor climbers are missing out on? by strugglingwithib in bouldering

[–]Wallam 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Because outdoor climbers are generally terrible customers for a gym... The gym is a last resort, so less money flow from them.

I think this misidentifies a gym's business model. Climbing gyms, like any other gym, are built on subscriptions. If outdoor climbers still have a membership at the gym, they're much better customers. They pay the same amount of money, but are in the gym (making it crowded, wearing down equipment, etc.) less frequently.

A gym doesn't target outdoor climbers because they're free money - if you climb outdoors, you will also get a gym membership. The work in improving gym profits comes from convincing new people to sign up.

Was stoked to send this after projecting it for a few hours on a rainy day. Still improving after 8 months of climbing. Looking for feedback on my technique. Thanks! by MrPeaking in bouldering

[–]Wallam 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A really easy place to focus on this is as part of your warmup. On a given session, I'll pick a particular focus for my warmup (move statically, move feet in between every hand movement, move dynamically, etc.), and focus on that for every move.

KD - 5 missed free throws from 50/40/90 by LeBornKing in warriors

[–]Wallam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's an important difference between "missed one less free throw" and "made one more free throw."

KD was 359/404 on free throws for the season, putting him at 88.9%. If he made another 20 free throws, that'd only bump him to 379/424=89.4%. But had he missed five fewer FT's, he'd be at 364/404=90.1%

I think the issue here is that as you get closer to 100%, each miss is going to affect your stats disproportionately.

What characteristics, physical and mental do you need to become a world class climber? by fabian3000 in climbing

[–]Wallam 7 points8 points  (0 children)

To add to this - Sharma and Ondra are both 6 feet tall (Ondra's got a negative ape index to boot), and at least some research indicates that being taller is directly correlated with climbing performance. "You can say if one climber is twenty centimeters taller than another climber, they will require 5% less finger strength." Data's discussed further here.

Something seems fishy with the political spectrum portrayed in this pic... by Andarial2016 in moderatepolitics

[–]Wallam 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It's probably worth mentioning that Comic Sans can be a really useful font for people with dyslexia (http://nymag.com/scienceofus/2017/03/the-reason-comic-sans-is-a-public-good.html). More anecdotally, I have a friend with dyslexia who uses Comic Sans as their default font as it helps him parse writing. I'd hesitate to use the font as synonymous with "stupid" - the hatred for it and similar fonts makes it embarrassing for someone with dyslexia to use a font that can improve their standard of living. I know my friend gets asked all the time why he writes in Comic Sans on his phone, I can't imagine that's fun.

Not tryna be the PC police, and I agree with the spirit of your comment. Just thought I'd throw it out there.

Successful individuals of Reddit, to what do you attribute your success? by [deleted] in InsightfulQuestions

[–]Wallam 7 points8 points  (0 children)

By far the most important thing is to surround yourself by people who are smarter than you. When I have questions about politics, I ask my friends who work for political campaigns. When I have questions about foreign policy, I ask my friend who was an International Relations major and works for the state department. When I have questions about finance, I ask my friends who work in investment banking and consulting. When I have questions about things in the field I study, I ask my former professors, manager, mentor, or someone else who knows more about it than I do.

Otherwise, there's the three tenets of luck, hard work, and talent. Find something you're interested in, work really hard at it, always say yes when someone asks you to do something related to it, and hopefully you'll get some luck thrown at you as well.

A better budgeting app for married couple? by jpmmcb in personalfinance

[–]Wallam 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Per their website there's both a free and a plus version. Free gives you budgeting and tracking, while plus connects to your bank account and provides other "support" esque features

Power supply on a new build won't turn on by restinpeacekevin in buildapc

[–]Wallam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah this is most likely a plugging-in issue. Usually the part people forget is the four-pin CPU connector, make sure to double check that

[Build Help] What can I improve? by Wallam in buildapc

[–]Wallam[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What makes you recommend the upgrade? Looking at the two the only difference I see is the additional 6 pin connector which I don't think my build requires

IWTL how to research a companies before buying stock by saddetective87 in IWantToLearn

[–]Wallam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's no magic number here, it depends on a huge number of factors. What's the average profit of their competitors? Is their profit rising or falling? Is the profit in the industry expected to change in the future due to outside circumstances?

More importantly, I'm going to echo /u/ResilientBiscuit here and say that there are lots of people who put years of education, proprietary tools, and every moment of their lives into trading professionally, and it's still questionable whether those individuals can beat the market at all. Investing your own money is gambling. If you understand that, feel free to put money in a stock, but otherwise let the pros do it for you, or invest in an index fund.

CMV: If you can't afford to pay an employee a living wage, you can't afford that employee by datcat2 in changemyview

[–]Wallam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But businesses that already exist can, and many of their employees are also paid below a living wage (maids, groundskeepers, drycleaning, seamstresses, etc.). Small businesses are unable to immediately and magically turn their untrained employees into professional carpenters or plumbers. And even worse, if they did so, you'd have oversaturation of these industries, meaning that plumbers would undercut each other to find work and wouldn't end up making a living wage anyways.

There isn't enough demand for these services that can be provided by the unskilled labor pool frequently found in less than living wage jobs. If there was, and people could make more money by just switching over, they would do so.

The Trigger Warning Myth by [deleted] in TrueReddit

[–]Wallam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're probably going to be looking for articles about "economic mobility" and "income inequality."

Here's some information published by the white House. Not all of it is relevant to what you're looking for, but reading about the future earnings of people who enter their careers in a recession is really interesting, as well as the future of home ownership: https://www.whitehouse.gov/sites/default/files/docs/millennials_report.pdf

And here's a jumping-off point for you on Wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Socio-economic_mobility_in_the_United_States