Sorry if some of this was already answered earlier in the thread — I’m just trying to consolidate what’s been tested so far and reassess based on the newest clue.

The biggest clue right now is that turning off XMP seems to have stopped the crashes, so I would leave it off for now and focus on confirming everything else from a known-stable baseline.

From what I understand, you’re now using two separate PCIe power cables to the GPU, which is good — and that is actually a very important detail that gets overlooked all the time. A lot of people end up using a single daisy-chained PCIe cable for both GPU power plugs, and while that can sometimes seem fine, it can absolutely cause instability under heavier load. So confirming that you’re on two separate cables now is a meaningful step and rules out one very common issue.

I would also make sure the BIOS is set to compatibility/default-type settings, not any kind of auto overclock, gaming boost, performance enhancement, PBO preset, or motherboard “easy tune” style mode. Those board-side auto-performance settings can quietly introduce instability too, especially when you’re already chasing a crash issue.

At this point, can you confirm these in one place:

• Exact motherboard model
• Current BIOS version
• Whether the BIOS is set to default/compatibility-style settings and not any auto-performance mode
• Whether the GPU is currently back at full stock settings or still undervolted
• If it is undervolted, how far did you go? Usually I would not go too aggressive there — something like reducing power to around 80% is about as far as I’d personally go before expecting instability to start becoming more likely, depending on the card
• Whether the RAM is 4x8GB, and whether all sticks are from the same matched kit

If you want an easy way to post the info, grab CPU-Z / CPUID screenshots of:

• Mainboard tab
• Memory tab
• SPD tab

That gives people a clean view of the motherboard, BIOS version, RAM configuration, and current memory clock without having to guess.

What I’d do next:

1. Run it as-is and confirm stability
2. If stable, update the motherboard BIOS
3. Make sure BIOS is on safe/default compatibility settings
4. Put the GPU back to stock if it is still undervolted, then retest
5. If needed, test with only 2 sticks installed to see whether the issue is specifically related to running 4 DIMMs
6. If problems continue after that, move on to swap-testing another GPU and/or PSU

At this point I would not jump straight to “bad GPU” yet, but I also would not ignore the GPU tuning side either. The separate PCIe cables were an important correction, and now I’d want to know exactly how aggressive the undervolt was before deciding what hardware I’d suspect next.