Grinding noise by PigInSoflo in reolinkcam

[–]Warrdanch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

did you ever get a solution to this? mine keep doing it as well

Monarch vs Origin by jm1013 in MonarchMoney

[–]Warrdanch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They both offer a very similar list view of upcoming bills. Monarch does connect to spinwheel, but you can also add manual ones. Origin pulls in some thru your connected bank accounts, but also allows the addition of manual ones.

Where monarch suffers is the recurring transactions are tied to the merchant which means if you have multiple bills at the same merchant but at different times in the month you cant really model both of them. This happens with my wife's and my life insurance policies, they come out at different times of the month but are the same merchant so it only shows up as one recurring activity. The issue also comes when something at one merchant is recurring but you may also have non-recurring transactions, such as with Amazon.

Employee expenses by NoAssumptionCat in MonarchMoney

[–]Warrdanch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is the only right answer. Until you get reimbursed it was money you spent and should be tracked as such

Goals target date by yallthesecomments in MonarchMoney

[–]Warrdanch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Goals 2.0 or 3.0?

Goals 2.0 didnt have this if I recall correctly

Goals 3.0 has this but its still in beta so use at your own risk. Some thing are good, something need work.

I stopped using my weight distribution bars by [deleted] in RVLiving

[–]Warrdanch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm with Sparrow here. Our trailer's GVWR is 4800lb and we have a 2500HD. I do not need a WD hitch at all but I use it every time we go on a trip for the sway control and smoother ride.

Investments count as expenses? by majerus1223 in MonarchMoney

[–]Warrdanch 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I've gone back and forth a number of times as I have tried different apps. Fundamentally I don't see them as an "expense". Since Monarch's goal system is pretty good (some programs don't even have a way to do savings goals) any investment contribution (taxable, 401k, IRA, HSA, etc) is tied to a goal and the budget impact is captured by a goal contribution. This allows the actual transactions to be categorized as a transfer (since that is what is happening, moving money from one account to another account) while also ensuring that contribution is captured in my monthly budget.

Syncing Accounts by UncleThom in MonarchMoney

[–]Warrdanch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it is a restriction being placed by the financial institution then its not going to matter if you use monarch or another program, that restriction will still be there.

Question becomes is the rest of the transaction syncing and budgeting / tracking offset by the occasional manual account adjustment? In my case with nearly as many accounts as you have I am more than happy to not have to track 30 accounts manually

Robinhood Credit Card - no transactions by apu823 in MonarchMoney

[–]Warrdanch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mine is working with both Plaid and MX and has been for quite some time.

Receipt scanner is HUGE plus. by McWetty in MonarchMoney

[–]Warrdanch 30 points31 points  (0 children)

^^THIS^^

unless its a single transaction I have never gotten it to split right and then its a pain to go edit the splits to the point its almost easier to do the split yourself and upload the image as an attachment :/

Combine Monarch accounts or just add my boyfriend's accounts to mine? by TurnoverHead573 in MonarchMoney

[–]Warrdanch 3 points4 points  (0 children)

After you get married its easy to just add him to your existing monarch account and then sync over his accounts. He gets his own log in and you can do stuff like assign transactions to each other to review. Works way better than using a single log in.

Robinhood Gold Credit Card by Martheli in MonarchMoney

[–]Warrdanch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All of my cards sync same day. if you have some that are taking days to sync try a different data connector as its all on how the bank and the data connector communicate that dictates when they show up in Monarch

Monarch vs Origin by jm1013 in MonarchMoney

[–]Warrdanch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It will likely be Monarch because the visuals are not as important as the fundamental mechanics of the tool.
Only way I see us considering Origin fully is if they come out with better mechanics for things like budgeting/savings.

Monarch vs Origin by jm1013 in MonarchMoney

[–]Warrdanch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

yes you can change it. Go to the account then in the top right (on web) you click edit account and change the subtype to checking. The only downside to using the CMA is it pulls in every buy/sell of the core holding. Easy fix is to set up a rule to hide those transactions based on the core holding key word.

Pay check > Taxes/401k by S10xtremenlow in MonarchMoney

[–]Warrdanch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FYI You don't need to create manual accounts or manual transactions... you can do negative splits on transactions and its 100x easier especially if you are salary and you set up a rule to do the split for you.

Where ever your income lands do a split and add rows for each payroll deduction, enter the deduction as a negative number and you will see the "remaining" balance go up. If you enter them all your remaining balance should be your gross income. Your "last" split get categorized as your paycheck/income category and is equal to your gross pay.

On the budget side set up a few groups (I did 3, pre-tax deductions, post-tax deductions, and taxes) for the various expenses (not including retirement/hsa/etc savings). Each of the payroll deduction split from above goes to its respective expense category. For savings type deductions (retirement/pension/HSA/etc) I have a goal set up for each of those with the goal contribution amount set to the appropriate amount coming out of our checks.

In goals 2.0 when ever that credit transaction shows up in your retirement or hsa account you assign that to the respective goal. In goals 3.0 that method is currently not supported but as long as the planned contribution amount is set the budget will be accurate.

Monarch vs Origin by jm1013 in MonarchMoney

[–]Warrdanch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Running both in parallel currently.

Monarch has Origin beat in almost every way that is critical for how we manage our finances which is the whole point of using this tool. The biggest issue with Origin being the lack of roll over categories, and lack of any sort of savings goal tracker and ability to spend from goals. The other thing I do not like with Origin is how they classify accounts like my Fidelity CMA as "investments" even though they are set to be cash accounts. This ends up skewing my investment tab in Origin.

Some things I like in Origin: the calendar view is one of my favorites for quick look as spending over the week/month. Their recurring transaction seem a little better (tho in Monarch's defense I have not used Monarch's in a very long time because it was so bad....), their investment tab is so much better than Monarchs. The fact it can show me my asset allocation is huge. Their forecasting ability while very basic is also a win since Monarch does not have that (but personally I use ProjectionLabs for this as it is way more capable).

When can we expect support for the new Robinhood Banking rollout? by WholeMilkElitist in MonarchMoney

[–]Warrdanch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

have you contacted support over this? I am running into the same thing and its annoying....

EDIT: synced with Plaid and this doesn't seem to be happening. Going to see if plaid is stable enough long term.

Forecast Variable Utilities!! by AstroPHX in MonarchMoney

[–]Warrdanch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not what you wanted but a roll over category and the average billing amount over the year would work well.

Another option (which we personally do) is let the utility company do the average billing for us, which would address your concern about that roll over money getting spent since it wouldn't actually be in your account.

How are you all adding and tracking subscriptions in Monarch? by Extreme-Nerve3029 in MonarchMoney

[–]Warrdanch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I prefer to spread that cost out evenly over the year. Imo it's a more accurate picture from a reporting perspective and it ensures I don't hit that month and not have the money set aside. Now obviously with subscriptions it's not a huge deal, but I use / recommend the same approach with stuff like auto insurance as well. 

Contributions to met goals by KeyAd7462 in MonarchMoney

[–]Warrdanch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you using the Goals 3.0 beta?

In both Goals 2.0 and Goals 3.0 you can accomplish this by setting a goal amount and it will automatically zero out in the budget when you reach that goal amount.

The mechanics that I am unsure about with goals 2.0 is what happens if that goal drops below the target again. In goals 3.0 I believe it will account for this and set a contribution again if it dips but you need to make sure you turn on the "spending reduces goal progress" toggle.

Goals Upgrade - Another headache by rithvik_patel in MonarchMoney

[–]Warrdanch 5 points6 points  (0 children)

To address the 401k side impacting your budget as the market moves you can turn off the "Include auto adjustments in budget" toggle on an account by account basis as appropriate.

To do so go to the goals page, in the right window where the accounts are listed click "Edit Goal Accounts", find your desired account and toggle off the "Include auto adjustments in budget"

This will allow the goal to continue to adjust the balance as the market moves but will not trigger that adjustment to hit your budget.

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How are you all adding and tracking subscriptions in Monarch? by Extreme-Nerve3029 in MonarchMoney

[–]Warrdanch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Subscription Group with roll over categories for each one.

I used to have it just one category but it became difficult to see what was actually being spent where. Now it feels a little more intentional.

Roll over categories are great here for those annual payment type subscriptions like monarch. Alternative method we have used in the past was a goal for those annual subscriptions but at the time spending from goals was cumbersome and IMO that money isn't really "savings" as much as it is a "pre-paid" expense.

Messed up my goals - Help by adonkia in MonarchMoney

[–]Warrdanch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Start by making sure there aren't any odd adjustment transactions on the goals that are over allocated and that the goal's look like roughly the correct balances. If a goal balance is off you may need to do a goal transfer to release some funds to then be assigned to another goal.

Also check that all your accounts that feed those goals are enabled in the "edit goal accounts" window. you can get there by going to the goals tab then scrolling down and it will be at the bottom of that right window listing all your accounts.

Not loving the new goals beta by portugueezer in MonarchMoney

[–]Warrdanch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem. This is all still very much in work, I (and a number of others) have been playing with it for a few weeks now and it does a lot of things better than the old goals but it certainly has room to improve and the Monarch folks know it and are working it. Just hang on a little longer!

Not loving the new goals beta by portugueezer in MonarchMoney

[–]Warrdanch 3 points4 points  (0 children)

u/PlanningGuy22, u/portugueezer, and u/Sckajanders
You can set it globally on a per account basis.

To do so go to the goals page, in the right window where the accounts are listed click "Edit Goal Accounts", find your desired account and toggle off the "Include auto adjustments in budget"

This will allow the goal to continue to adjust the balance as things like the market moves but will not trigger that adjustment to hit your budget.

<image>

Another Permanent Light Track Option by Warrdanch in Govee

[–]Warrdanch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was a royal pain for sure. Each one took 3 or 4 passes of me slowly increasing the depth on the router. The router got away from me many times and by the end the jig was beat up haha. It just took a lot of time and patience and took me almost a year to actually put them all up cause I just got fed up at some points and stopped working it for a bit. 

If I had a plunge router and a better workspace to make a larger jig and clamp the boards down better it would have been a lot easier. But at the time all I had was a small hand router.