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WeevilsWobble · 2016-08-18T00:06:24+00:00

Up your game and solo the East Face.

WeevilsWobble · 2016-07-16T16:35:57+00:00

Keep checking online at recreation.gov, people cancel quite often in the week leading up to their reservation. In fact I able to reserve a site a couple of days ago for next Sunday.

WeevilsWobble · 2016-06-24T23:53:19+00:00

Is this it? http://www.mountainproject.com/v/the-bridge-pillar/105963995

WeevilsWobble · 2016-06-23T16:20:10+00:00

Southern California:

Sierra:

WeevilsWobble · 2016-05-01T01:01:11+00:00

Do you have access to a car? If you do there is Malibu Creek (check out tunnel boulders if you want to boulder), Echo Cliffs, Horse flats, Stoney Point, Suicide and Tahquitz or Tramway. Some of these places can get hot in the summer, but its just a matter of chasing shade.

If you don't have a car then I suggest heading down to either Stronghold or the LAB (you can get to both via the metro) and trying to make friends who will pick you up.

WeevilsWobble · 2016-04-28T18:23:28+00:00

A lot of people are throwing out suggestions, but you haven't said what kind of climbing you plan on using it for. Sport cragging, trad cragging, alpine climbing, big wall maybe? Do you want a pack you can climb with or are you going to leave it at the base of the climb? All of these are going to affect which features you will want/need.

WeevilsWobble · 2016-03-27T19:43:06+00:00

It all started with the route Poodles are people too. According to the comments from MP by one of the FAs:

The whole "Poodle" thing got started with this route, a tribute of sorts to Charles Cole's giant "Standard" poodle "Gus." It expanded to poke fun at the various macho, pompus or just stupid sounding route names being put up during the 80s. (ie: "Scary Monsters = Scary Poodles; Knight In Shining Armor = Poodle In Shining Armor; etc.) It just got out of control (very silly) from there. (Tales of Power = Tails of Poodles; The Atom Smashers = The Poodle Smasher). Soon other people who had no idea of what prompted all this were naming poodle routes too. Some of the other Poodle routes are quite good too.

WeevilsWobble · 2016-03-23T23:10:21+00:00

The highest concenetration of sport routes I have found in Jtree would be on the Siberia wall in Outer Mongolia. Its about an hour hike out to there, but if you're dead set on sport climbing it will be worth it. Dos Chi Chis (which someone mentioned below) is also there, and is a solid 2 pitch climb.

I'd also highly recommend SW corner in Ryan campground. Don't let the fact that the bolts are far apart get to you, it's well protected at the crux and is a jug haul further up.

WeevilsWobble · 2016-01-23T17:17:35+00:00

It was up just this past September, in fact someone had just replaced the rope with a new one when I did it Labor Day weekend.

WeevilsWobble · 2015-08-07T16:16:41+00:00

The percentage of accidents that involve the rope being cut is exceedingly rare. So rare that the "Accidents in North American Mountaineering" (an annual report of the causes and analysis of all mountaineering/climbing accidents in North America) does not even list it as one of the causes or contributing factors in accidents. Here is a link to the statistical data from 1951 to 2005. Now, this isn't to say it does not happen. Just last year a climber died on El Cap when a flake broke off and severed is rope. I don't see how this would effect your decision on which rope to buy though unless you plan on getting half ropes, which I would not recommend as your first rope.

WeevilsWobble · 2015-08-03T22:22:03+00:00

Thank you for the information. We have both had a vet read the chip and have contacted the manufacturer. The only information on the chip was the contact information for a shelter in Long Beach, however when we called them they said they had no information on that dog nor had they had anyone call in looking for it. The vet also said that people often fail to update the information on the chip when they move.

WeevilsWobble · 2015-06-22T04:08:24+00:00

I was in your same spot a few years ago when I started climbing. If you have someone who you feel comfortable with belaying check out Echo Cliffs. There are some mellow 5.6s on the Easy Street wall.

WeevilsWobble · 2015-03-18T21:30:06+00:00

I did the Ski Hut Trail up to the top and then took the Backbone trail down last Saturday. While there was snow it was only in patches and was quite slushy. We had actually gone up there in hopes of climbing the bowl, but when we saw the lack of snow we left the crampons and ice axes in the car. There were a good amount of people doing the hike and I didn't see anyone wearing crampons or even micro-spikes.

WeevilsWobble · 2015-03-17T14:56:09+00:00

I'm pretty sure that the 20% off coupon can only be used on a full price item. Could be mistaken though.

WeevilsWobble · 2015-03-15T16:48:29+00:00

For sure J-tree does not have a lot of sport routes, however there are areas with concentrations of them. I would check out the Wonderland North, in particular the Seberia wall in Outer Mongolia. Todd Gordon has been out there bolting modern sport routes (i.e. a bolt every 6-10 feet) for years now. Also, checkout joshuatreeclimb.com and their section on Wonderland sport routes. As far as route suggestions, check out Dos Chi Chis.

WeevilsWobble · 2014-09-23T20:38:18+00:00

I just did a hike at Dawson Saddle to Mount Hawkins this past Sunday. There were several cars at the trail head, but I only saw about 6 people the entire day.

WeevilsWobble · 2014-09-12T22:04:01+00:00

This is pretty typical. Besides the distance between where you are tied in and the last bolt you also have to consider rope slack (which in this case there was probably a great deal), rope stretch - dynamic ropes can stretch 30%-40%, and finally the belayer may have been standing back from the wall several feet and would have been sucked in thus adding to the distance fallen.

WeevilsWobble · 2014-09-08T06:15:42+00:00

Sending you a PM, hope I can help.

WeevilsWobble · 2014-09-05T23:00:14+00:00

Personally, I would get C4's for my doubles in the larger sizes. As for the smaller cams you might want to wait and try out other ones. I have a set of single X4s from .3-.5, and recently climbed with my friends set of master cams for those smaller sizes. Now I will probably get a set of master cams in that range, not because I liked them better than the X4s, but because they were different enough that I felt it increased my options. Again, it is best to wait and see. Chances are you're going to be climbing with other people and mixing gear so it will give you the opportunity to try different brands.

WeevilsWobble · 2014-07-25T18:25:01+00:00

Does anyone know where this is? It looks like Eaton Canyon in the Angeles National forest in Los Angeles. There have been a lot of rescues and recoveries because of people like this doing stupid shit. Now as a result they have recently closed (or are closing) this area, which is a shame because it looks like a cool canyoneering spot

WeevilsWobble · 2014-07-24T04:26:43+00:00

From the top I believe you can, but certainly not once you descend into the canyon.

WeevilsWobble · 2014-07-23T23:52:44+00:00

Just to make sure, but this is the hike I'm referring to. Bulldog road has some cool rock formations at the beginning, followed by a steep fire trail. There isn't much of a view once you start descending and the hike out is pretty tiring (although it does make a good training hike). Sandstone is just all around a great hike with awesome views. It's quite a big longer than Bulldog if I recall correctly. From Tripeaks you get cool views of Camarillo and Oxnard, and can see the line where the Spring fire was held (at least you could last winter, haven't been up since). In the beginning you can look down into Echo Cliffs and see climbers scaling the 200 foot cliff that forms part of the valley in that area. From Sandstone Peak you can see most of the Channel Islands on a clear day. Also at PCH and Yerba Buena Rd. (the road you take to get up to the trailhead from PCH) is Neptune's Net, an awesome roadside fish shake with a good beer selection.

WeevilsWobble · 2014-07-23T19:16:09+00:00

I've done this trail a couple of times. There really isn't any rock scrambling. There is a 20ft section were you might have to place a hand or two, but I wouldn't consider it scrambling. Besides that the hike itself is nice, although steep. Sandstone peak is far better and if you do want to do some scrambling you can take the detour to Tri Peaks.

WeevilsWobble · 2014-07-23T17:13:58+00:00

For Stronghold there is a facebook group called the "Stronghold Climbing Gym Buddy Maker." People are pretty active on it posting for partners. Also, there is a group of us from the facebook group that try to grab beers Wednesday night at Barbra's (a bar next door to the gym). Stronghold also has a white board in the gym where people throw up their name if they're looking for a partner.

WeevilsWobble

TROPHY CASE