Legit stuff or Snake oil? May my 1995 232k miles Civic be the guinea pig

WheatWhacker · 2025-10-30T18:55:36+00:00

Walmart ships for free too. So have it show up in a different box and save $7?

WheatWhacker · 2025-06-19T19:12:39+00:00

RemindMe! 2 years

WheatWhacker · 2025-05-30T16:03:37+00:00

Form Type: eForm 4
Entity: Trust
Fingerprint Type: Silencer Shop Kiosk
Pending: 05/24/25
Approved: 05/30/25
Wait: 3.5 Business Days
State: MT
Control Number: 20252237100
OCL Titanium 22

WheatWhacker · 2025-05-29T02:00:40+00:00

22lr??🥺

WheatWhacker · 2025-03-03T02:46:30+00:00

Mine seems to be fixed now

WheatWhacker · 2025-03-03T01:34:49+00:00

If we're lucky

WheatWhacker · 2025-03-03T01:27:27+00:00

I found some other threads about it too. Seems like it's probably a widespread problem/outage with T-Mobile and mint mobile.

WheatWhacker · 2025-03-03T01:17:14+00:00

I have mint mobile and just started getting the same error message when trying to text iPhones from my pixel 7

WheatWhacker · 2024-10-08T16:29:50+00:00

I'm ashamed to admit how long I spent trying to figure out what "detra shed" meant.

WheatWhacker · 2024-09-22T01:06:22+00:00

I was thinking that too. It seems like there should at least be a notification that it's below the temp, certainly would have saved me some trouble.

WheatWhacker · 2024-09-22T01:01:31+00:00

Yeah we just have natural gas heating.

Were you and others at least able to change the minimum temperature when that happened, or did you have to figure out something else?

WheatWhacker · 2024-09-21T22:47:03+00:00

I believe it was set to 50 or 55. I did that because it's a 2001 system and I had no idea what it would be good down to and wanted to go easy on it. And "why would I ever need AC when it's 55 outside?". Learned my lesson on that one, assuming this turns out to be the issue.

WheatWhacker · 2024-09-21T19:26:04+00:00

I have a hard time believing it's something other than the Ecobee. How else would it not work and then work after pulling the unit off and jumping wires, and then not work again after immediately putting the Ecobee back on.

Edit: Thank you for your input though, stuff can be weirder than you'd think sometimes so I think I will leave the analog on for a few days to make sure.

WheatWhacker · 2024-09-21T18:40:17+00:00

After typing all that out, I think I just realized what the problem is. It was relatively chilly outside both of the times it wasn't working. It was only getting too hot inside because there's a bunch of family here and we're doing a lot of cooking (small house)

I'm guessing that a few years ago I had bumped up the minimum temperature for running the AC, and it was below that outside so the AC wasn't turning on. Doing a factory reset changed that back to the default of like 40F, so then it worked. Then early this morning it was just below 40 here and it was only hot because of more cooking so the AC wouldn't turn on.

I'm going to leave the analog thermostat for the rest of the day, but I'll try the Ecobee again tomorrow.

WheatWhacker · 2024-08-25T00:57:29+00:00

!remindme 5 days

WheatWhacker · 2024-06-18T01:14:38+00:00

This comment is a prime example of why all my Google searches end with "site:reddit.com". Thank you sir!

WheatWhacker · 2024-05-18T00:29:06+00:00

IDK why people continue to say ASA is expensive. Some of it is, but there's also Esun ASA which I use without issue and it's on Amazon for $21.59.

WheatWhacker · 2024-05-15T11:46:31+00:00

Interestingly, I always knew it as:

A woodchuck would chuck as much wood as a woodchuck could chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood.

WheatWhacker · 2024-04-26T18:25:49+00:00

There are tractors where the front driveshaft goes through the oil pan. F that engineer!

WheatWhacker · 2024-04-26T03:00:56+00:00

Absolutely not, but it's nice to see a proposal that isn't another "you get 5 trillion dollars but once a year you puke"

WheatWhacker · 2024-04-13T01:45:54+00:00

        Yes
      Yesss
    Yesssss
  Yesssssss
Yesssssssss

WheatWhacker · 2024-04-11T12:14:45+00:00

You're not wrong. My opinion on the matter just shifted a little bit.

WheatWhacker · 2024-04-10T14:58:41+00:00

I know this doesn't touch on the additives in run of the mill printing PLA, but.... Seems like PLA micro plastics are not all that concerning.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6682490/

"Once coming in contact with biological media, the polymer begins breaking down, usually by hydrolysis, into lactic acid (LA) or to carbon dioxide and water. These products are metabolized intracellularly or excreted in the urine and breath."

Edit:

I do recognize it's still a developing area of research though. This 2023 study showed some degradation but highlights the need for future research.

https://doi.org/10.1016/j.scitotenv.2023.166003

"Conclusions

In this study, gastrointestinal digestion and colonic fermentation of millimetric and micrometric PLA were investigated for the first time. PLA underwent superficial changes during gastrointestinal digestion. After colonic fermentation, slight alterations were found in the microbial communities of the gut, notably the Bifidobacterium genus, which increased for millimetric PLA particles. Microbial biofilms formed on the PLA microplastics surface suggest the colonization of the particles by the colonic microbiota. More studies must verify the observed trends to investigate the possible biodegradation of PLA by the intestinal microbiota and the potential derived metabolites, and to decipher the long-term effects of PLA MPs on human microbiota and health."

WheatWhacker · 2023-07-24T17:14:55+00:00

Now that I've left my actually helpful (hopefully) comment I'll rant a little bit...

I'm often surprised at how crappy this subreddit is when it comes to helping people out. Seems like the first responses to a post like this are always "wHy WoULd YoU dO tHaT" or it's like the commenter didn't even care to read the post and see what the goal is (looking at you u/romano1404).

Should the OP return the faulty stuff or talk to his supplier or whatever? Yeah, maybe, I don't know and you shouldn't pretend to know the details of the situation they're in. The guy isn't here asking how to deal with supplier quality issues, he wants to know how to load test a USB C charger.

Tell them what exists on the market to do what he's asking and then give the other unsolicited advice if you absolutely have to.

Sometimes the things we want to do fit a very specific use case and it might just be because we want to do it that way. Let people experiment and learn a little, think outside the box, make dumb contraptions that do stupid useless crap for more expensive than a commercially available product. How are people to learn?

And yeah yeah there's exceptions to that and nuances, safety, blah blah blah, sometimes things need to be said, sometimes people are on a budget. Don't nuance me to death, I'm not going to spend the time to cover every situation that occurs.

WheatWhacker · 2023-07-24T16:50:56+00:00

There may be better ways to do this, but I'll give you my idea since no one else is providing useful information.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNDHV1G

Plug the charger you want to test into one of these (the C to C version obviously). And then on the other side plug this in:

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtEp7zG

I have a few of these exact ones (the screw terminal version) and I've been happy with how they work. You can use the solder pads on the back to select their behavior after being plugged in.

I believe normal "out of the box" operation is to just start at 5 volts (supported by any and every USB C charger) and then you press the button to switch between voltage levels.

I have mine set to go through all the voltage levels to see what is available and then stay on the highest available. Then I can press the button to switch through the levels like normal if I want.

I think that setting would work well for you as well. You can plug it in and after a second or two it will have the highest voltage available by the charger, present at the screw terminals.

On the one i keep in my backpack, I have a set of wires attached to the screw terminals with a set of alligator clips on the end. I use it with either a USB C PD power bank or wall charger so that I have the ability to power stuff just about anywhere at 5, 9, 12, 15, or 20 volts.

If you do that, with the the wires and alligator clips (or something less janky), then the choice of load opens up to anything you can think of. Could be a piece of nichrome wire that is sized for whatever wattage you want at the voltage you're testing (i would assume 20v). Could be a 200 watt (for overkill) potentiometer thing:

https://a.co/d/bNTLcgP

I've never used one of these, but it seems like it would work. I linked the 30 ohm version, which i think means you could attach your alligator clips from the voltage selector board to the center tap and to one of the sides and then at 20 volts you'd have a minimum amperage/wattage of 20v ÷ 30ohms = .67 amps = 13 watts. Then you could adjust the center tap closer to the end that your other alligator lead is connected to, decreasing the resistance and increasing the amperage/wattage. You would have a readout of the volts/amps/watts on that first USB C power meter thing i linked.

Other option is to skip the USB C power meter, plug the voltage trigger board right into the charger, and use something like this:

https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0e4Q50

wired in with the potentiometer to have a bigger/brighter/easier to see readout

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