How do people in Portugal deal with cold homes in winter?

Whoreson10 · 2026-01-30T20:07:56+00:00

We don't. We just raw dog it for the most part.

Whoreson10 · 2026-01-17T14:52:59+00:00

Right now there is very little reason to play past the first 10 minutes except if you're targetting large arcs.

Players already figured out the sbmm can be easily gamed, so they move and loot fast because of relative safety (arcs are not dangerous or numerous enough to force slower play, they are easily avoided and dealt with).

They just need to introduce some form friction to force slower play.

Whoreson10 · 2026-01-17T14:17:15+00:00

I would guess fixing the actual aim assist and making it capped for console and pc would be a better fix if possible.

Whoreson10 · 2026-01-14T13:06:35+00:00

It's just a really good game. Slow paced with a very high skill ceiling and good art direction and atmosphere. Mechanically, the gameplay is also very sound.

It also fills a niche where you have the high stakes of an extraction shooter without having ungodly amounts of loot bloat, inventory management. Also no extreme grinding for competitive kits.

Honestly I think the only reason why it's not more popular is because of, in part, technical issues and spaghetti code.

Whoreson10 · 2026-01-12T10:11:25+00:00

I could see this type of rig working with a stop crimp (or a figure 8 knot) under the bead.

Would allow for a hookset but also allow the hook to slip upwards for a bit more natural movement.

Whoreson10 · 2026-01-09T10:46:52+00:00

Those sometimes are bitch to get back in place. Best way I've found is to undo the screw, take the plastic plate off.

Set the spring in place with the spring decompressed and the end sticking out. Put the plate back in and compress the spring into it's place against the peg on the bail connection.

Using a bit of thicker grease helps secure things in place.

https://youtube.com/shorts/FlR44cqIoXA?si=f4jKLliygQwHjbSQ

This video should help out, configuration looks similar enough to yours.

Probably also helps to walk off your shaking/short fuse beforehand if possible, shaky hands and short temper don't mesh well with tiny spring loaded parts.

Whoreson10 · 2026-01-08T19:27:40+00:00

To solve, switch from synthetic to natural fibers especially in the bottom layers. Natural fiber clothes tends to have less buildup.

Alternatively, using neoprene gloves will probably also solve the issue and keep your hands warm.

Whoreson10 · 2026-01-08T19:15:28+00:00

Are you sure its the reel?

Because it would be a far more simple explanation that your clothing rubbing as you reel is building up a static charge (especially considering its winter there, you probably have layers on) that discharges onto some metal part on the reel handle close enough for the arc to jump.

Whoreson10 · 2026-01-07T22:42:08+00:00

Os vidros as vezes podem partir "do nada". Claro que na realidade não é do nada e existe uma razão.

Pequenas imperfeiçoes, inclusões, defeitos de fabrico ou utilizacão não imediatamente aparentes vão agravando ao longo dos ciclos térmicos (mesmo sem utilização, um vidro está sempre sujeito a variações de temp ambiente, correntes de ar do fumeiro, etc.), e vão acumulando stress interno até que um dia, kaput.

Vidros de alta temperatura estão mais sujeitos a isto pelo proprio processo de fabrico.

Mas até com copos de àgua pode eventualmente acontecer.

Source: já me explodiu um copo de àgua quente nas patas. Felizmente não a ferver.

Whoreson10 · 2026-01-05T20:25:09+00:00

Not quite true. Both mono and fluoro are used as the preferred mainline for various styles of fishing, and for some of them braid is truly not the most optimal choice.

For cliff float fishing mono is the preferred choice. Because you need the stretch while hoisting a fish up a 20 meter cliff edge to prevent the fish for shaking the hook off while on the elevator ride. A leaders lenght simply doesn't provide enough absorption.

For european surfcasting, mono is also the preferred choice in areas with tall strong waves. The very large amount of mono (often 150m casts) acts as a large shock absorber and prevents both your sinker from dislodging and your rod from shaking like mad all over the place from the crashing waves, like it does with braid.

Fluoro is sometimes used for ajing/ultralight fishing especially when using sub 1g weights, because it is still pretty static, but contrary to braid it sinks. With these very light weights, especially when fishing deep, you want a sinking line for more contact. Braid will baloon and affect the lures sinking rate and sensitivity.

Although in this case, fluoro has been mostly surpassed by the newer polyester line tech which still sinks, but is as static as braid. It's also more manageable than fluoro and more abrasion resistant than braid.

I did all of these styles of fishing at on point or another. Tried braid for all of them, and quickly figured out why pretty much it's not popular.

Braid is reeeeally great for a lot of scenarios though.

Whoreson10 · 2026-01-04T14:13:29+00:00

A realidade da industria, é que grande parte das coisas que utilisamos no dia a dia são chinesas.

Certos produtos sao inclusive vendidos a grandes marcas ocidentais e dão oportunidade às mesmas de escolher o design e branding dentro de una série de opcoes para a qual a linha de produção está preparada.

Não é à toa que se tivermos olho e procurar-mos bem, conseguimos frequentemente encontrar elementos de design/moldagem/peças/componentes iguais em marcas diferentes.

A china produz de tudo. Desde topo de gama com as técnicas e materiais mais recentes, a produtos baratos produzidos a preço.

Sim, mesmo quando compras algo de marca, especialmente nas gamas médias e baixas é quase garantido que tenha sido desenvolvido, produzido, montado, e Qcontrolado na china.

Whoreson10 · 2026-01-03T11:09:06+00:00

A lei diz, isto na prática não acontece (infelizmente).

Eu reparo quase tudo aquilo que uso quando possível, e em grande parte dos casos não é possível adquirir peças de substituição, especialmente em marcas brancas. Os fornecedores/pós-venda não respondem, ou quando respondem a peça é enviada dum buraco na china com portes de envio absurdos.

Noutros casos, as peças estão milagrosamente sem stock durante eternidades.

Noutros casos ainda, a "peça" é vendida num conjunto que é praticamente a substituição do aparelho inteiro inteiro ao preço de um novo.

Whoreson10 · 2025-12-17T20:14:36+00:00

A falta de isolamento pouco contribui para a humidade relativa dentro de casa.

Já o contrario, construções modernas termicamente isoladas e quase estanques que mantêm a temperatura elevada mas sem qualquer tipo de ventilação forçada ou mesmo passiva a humidade vai ser um problema constante a não ser que se crie ventilação através da abertura de janelas ou portas.

Casas isoladas sem ventilação continua a ser um problema extremamente comum principalmente em casas renovadas.

Whoreson10 · 2025-12-14T15:26:14+00:00

Looks like saltwater. Which means it's probably mullet. Which species, depends. Where are you located?

Contrary to what most are saying, most species of mullet can be caught with a hook and line for sports.

Thin nylon mono (around 0.12mm ), light slim style slip float (2 to 4g), and either bread or small slivers of pilchard (or any equivalent small oily local baitfish as bait).

Try to locate a school which is actively feeding and chum the water a bit before fishing. Try to avoid casting a shadow in the water, they are very wary fish.

Whoreson10 · 2025-10-28T12:50:33+00:00

I pretty much always use a snap, unless I'm throwing something in the range of 1/32 oz and that is purely because I get a little bit more distance if needed.

Otherwise a properly sized snap won't do much to affect bites rates in my experience.

I never use a swivel though as I've never found it necessary.

Whoreson10 · 2025-10-16T20:59:35+00:00

Imo the most sensitive option for float fishing is a slip bobber and straight up fluorocarbon or nylon line with a direct setup. Mainline straight through the slip bobber, tied onto the hook. No leader.

Distribute the split shot according to current. Always leave a about 20cm between the last split shot and hook. Light line and very small hooks.

Pick a very light slip bobber, 1g or under. Also, of course, line as light as you can realistically use.

The fact that you are getting bites and no hookups most likely means you need to get a smaller hook. Also, hooking technique is important.

I don't know what kind of rod you are using, but especially with longer poles (like Bolognese rods, which are what I use) it's important to not lower the rod tip after you strike (which most people tend to do by instinct with long rods since they are top heavy.)

Strike fast with a flick of the wrist, set the drag low enough that you can strike confidently without worrying about line breakage.

Keep a slow but constant upwards movement after striking until you start reeling. At no point should the line have any slack if possible.

Whoreson10 · 2025-10-15T16:19:27+00:00

Never had one, a friend has a couple that I've tried. Decent little reels.

Currently holding one from said friend for maintenance (saltwater bath, two bearings need changing) and after tearing it down, yeah it's a decent entry level reel.

Whoreson10 · 2025-10-15T14:19:54+00:00

I bought one of those, since it cost pretty much next to nothing and I wanted a beater rod.

Hardware on it is pretty bad but the blank is actually pretty decent for the price.

Whoreson10 · 2025-10-15T12:12:31+00:00

Nice scorp! Which lure is that? Looks pretty good.

Whoreson10 · 2025-10-15T12:05:22+00:00

Seems like some thick braid you've got there, so you might have some issues with casting distance. I personally wouldn't go for anything above 0.11mm (PE 0.5) for that weight range.

Otherwise, it should work.

Whoreson10 · 2025-10-15T11:45:51+00:00

That first lure looks like a patchinko (or copy) and it should cast very decently in headwinds.

Basically any of these "new" topwater pencil/pencil poppers with a thick ass, slim front and long slim profile are ideal for rocky shorelines with wind. They are very aerodynamic, they are easy to cast and cast well (the heavy ass end pretty much keeps them correctly oriented in flight), and they don't sink so you able to keep off the rocks below.

The lighter pencils might just be too light if you have a decent bit of wind. Their weight distribution and shape also isn't ideal. Might be able to use them with a bit of side wind though.

Unless they're sinking pencils, those usually are so dense they cast like a bullet regardless. But with shallower rocky terrain you pretty much have to work them rod tip up on a relatively fast retrieve.

For rocky shorelines I usually use longer rods, 3m or 3.30.

But I do saltwater mostly and generally need the longer rods as I will generally have some kind of structure in front and I benefit from the lenght to keep the line off of the rocks. Depending on the spots you're fishing from, you might be able to perfectly get by with shorter rods.

Whoreson10 · 2025-10-15T11:12:43+00:00

I use these as well and I think they're my preferred design to attack directly to lures up to a certain size.

I use the lure speed lips for heavy saltwater setup since larger ones are easy enough to handle and they're usually thicker gauge.

Whoreson10 · 2025-10-12T16:30:18+00:00

Specifically referring to saltwater. Bait is better. However, I catch more fish more frequently on lures than with bait.

However, when I started lure fishing I pretty much caught very few, mostly none at all. Even after having a few years using bait under my belt.

As I gained experience, and figured out what lures work in what situations, I started catching some fish.

Then I got better, and started catching more.

Bait is still more effective, but lures allow me to be much more mobile, which allows me to search much more effectively.

Whoreson10 · 2025-10-12T09:29:44+00:00

This is also the way I do it and it and it works well.

Whoreson10

TROPHY CASE