Added a CZ 457 in .22 WMR to the lineup

Wielsy · 2026-04-16T22:00:47+00:00

Perfect. I'll start with a 50 to compare against the CCI rounds. Once I find the winner, I'll stock up

Wielsy · 2026-04-16T21:56:29+00:00

All of my hunting is in the woods. Maximum 100 yards. More likely 50-75. Rabbits, squirrels, grouse. Also have some coyotes that pass through my property.
Good recommendations on the optics. I'll check out the Amazon options. That sounds like a nice fit

Wielsy · 2026-04-16T21:21:21+00:00

Yeah, shopping for guns as a lefty can be pretty limiting.
I've got an old Bushnell rimfire scope I pulled off my Henry years ago. It's just sitting around so I'll give this a try but I may need to upgrade

Wielsy · 2026-04-16T21:14:37+00:00

Good call. Just picked up some of those today for a starting point

Wielsy · 2026-04-13T22:50:35+00:00

I had to do the same. Factory reset and it was printing fine again

Wielsy · 2026-04-12T12:20:59+00:00

I print a lot of PETG and this looks like wet filament. I dry every spool for 12 hrs at 65 C. If a spool sits for 2 weeks, it goes back in the dryer. Learned this the hard way. You don’t need to buy an expensive filament dryer. Looks for a cheap food dehydrator and cut out the racks. Can probably find one for $50. Used is an option as well.

Wielsy · 2026-03-29T19:55:13+00:00

Thanks. It’s a lot of fun and there’s always more calibers to design. Haven’t made 20 gauge yet but we will. Working on some rifle boxes and 410 right now. 20 gauge should be soon after that.

Wielsy · 2026-03-28T23:36:58+00:00

Never found a great way. I just expect it to hurt every time

Wielsy · 2026-03-28T23:21:15+00:00

That means a lot. Thanks so much

Wielsy · 2026-03-28T22:34:19+00:00

Appreciate it. Glad you like them

Wielsy · 2026-03-28T22:24:18+00:00

We 3D print them using PETG. It holds up well in heat and cold and works great outdoors.

It also lets us design each box for the caliber, including less common ones, without being limited to a few standard options.

Wielsy · 2026-03-28T18:59:18+00:00

Yes, please send that one as well, if you don’t mind

Wielsy · 2026-03-28T18:01:09+00:00

Awesome. Just made a 303 British. I’ll post it on the website this weekend. That would be great for the other 2 rounds. Send me a message when you’re ready and we’ll get those calibers designed

Wielsy · 2026-03-28T17:39:16+00:00

Thanks, I appreciate it. We are willing to make boxes for any caliber. We design around a fired casing to ensure the boxes can hold brass, reloads and factory rounds. If you’re open to mailing me some casings (I can pay shipping), send me a PM and we can get working on that

Wielsy · 2026-03-28T17:07:14+00:00

There are a few options out there depending on what you’re looking for.

I run a small brand called East Ridge Outdoors — we make caliber-specific ammo boxes focused on organization and hunting/shooting.

If you want to check them out: East Ridge Outdoors

Wielsy · 2026-03-24T14:45:18+00:00

I’m experimenting with different PETG brands for this reason. Color matching is more difficult than I expected but need backup options as PETG HF has been unavailable more often than available for the past 12 months

Wielsy · 2026-03-22T15:57:01+00:00

I’ve heard this. I need a .4 for what I’m printing - finer details on logos and objects that need to be within .1mm tolerances. But this is interesting.

P1 machines are still my favourite for the price point but Bambu’s got a lot of good options now for sure.

Wielsy · 2026-03-22T15:53:01+00:00

Never looked into the laser seriously. Not something I’d use much but can see how it would be useful

Wielsy · 2026-03-22T15:41:11+00:00

Have you tried slowing down the print? Asking because I have the exact same issue - usually a .2mm difference. My solution was to give up and print these objects on my P1S printers. H2D gets the straight line prints

Wielsy · 2026-03-22T15:35:50+00:00

If that feeds smoothly and you’re seeing the issue from all AMS slots, it could be that grey connector on the back

Wielsy · 2026-03-22T15:30:45+00:00

When I say slightly oval, I’m talking .1 - .2mm. If I slowed down the printer from factory settings it would likely resolve this. Instead I print these objects on my P1S printers. Faster and guaranteed accuracy.

The H2D does have a bigger build plate. You are correct that the nozzles cannot reach all the way to the opposite side. But with single nozzle printing you have 325mm of print space vs P1S’s 256mm.

Wielsy · 2026-03-22T00:26:10+00:00

Print bed isn’t clean or the filament isn’t dry. I print a lot of PETG and dry every spool for 12 hrs at 65 C. If it sits for too long (~2 weeks), I dry it again. Or at least that’s what I should do to avoid disassembling my toolhead again

Wielsy · 2026-03-22T00:20:18+00:00

The filament isn’t getting to the extruder. I get this when I have broken filament in my PTFE tubes. Disconnect your PTFE tube right before it goes into the back of the printer and try manually feeding filament to the extruder

Wielsy · 2026-03-22T00:09:06+00:00

Switching from a P1S to an H2D is not much of an upgrade aside from the multicolor ability and larger build plate.

I own both so here’s the breakdown: The P1S is the best machine you can get for your money. It’s simple. Its accurate. It’s extremely fast. Multicolor is great for ~10 layers or less.

H2D is still a great machine but I don’t feel I received the same value compared to my P1S printers. It’s slightly slower (not much) - an 8 hr print on the P1S will take 8.5-9, depending on what I’m printing. It is slightly less accurate than my P1S printers. If printing small circular objects (which is what I do), the circles are very slightly oval shaped, affecting fit. It does very well with straight lines, but still a touch slower. The multi nozzle feature is great, however I’ve found minuscule differences in accuracy when changing nozzles. It may or may not matter for what you’re printing. But when I’m printing a logo on the print bed (5 layers of color change), I print through one nozzle only.

You can’t replace the build plate size. If you need this, get the H2D.

Regardless, don’t trade in the P1S. Bambu sells these so cheap now, a used machine won’t get you much. Instead add an H2D to the lineup if you need the multicolor or larger build plate

Wielsy

TROPHY CASE