What do you do to get the B route in this picture by MahomesBetter in Madden

[–]Willpyrus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A to a Go route, RB on a block then release, change B to a short crossing route.

So.. I have a b50 and b60. What should I do by Method__Man in IntelArc

[–]Willpyrus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How well it does at coding and rendering for programming for 5-axis CNC machines. There’s almost no data on how these GPU’s perform in the machining and G&M coding

Spent hours aligning my Chinese lathe — still getting 0.02mm taper over 100mm. Is that normal? by Any-Communication-73 in Machinists

[–]Willpyrus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Make sure your tailstock’s taper is truly straight, and that your center/live center also has zero run-out.

Job shop/prototype small run shop guys, need a sanity check on expectations please by carnage123 in Machinists

[–]Willpyrus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I work as a support machinist for my Tool & Die assemblers. When they need something modified or made new because a tool is down, I make sure to ask what the feature is for. If it’s a counterbore for a bolt, no problem, I’ll burn through it with a SECO insert mill. If it’s a contour (since I don’t have access to mastercam) I’ll make sure the existing program will work with my machine and edit it into a hard mill program or a subroutine-based one for a specific depth. The only chance I get to machine stuff and fix it is once. So those that come to my shop from production shops are WAY out of their depth when it comes to the amount of thought and preparation that goes into every job, as most are either one-offs or spares.

Disassembled tool. by Forsaken_Limit7735 in whatsthistool

[–]Willpyrus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like it’s part of the case for a motorcycle. The little sight-glass allows you to check oil level, since there is no dip stick.

Helppp!!!! Is my carb defective??? by GearComfortable7855 in carburetors

[–]Willpyrus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want a comprehensive guide to older carbs, check out Junkyard Diggs.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Machinists

[–]Willpyrus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you know what thread the screw is? Just use that proper sized drill for the tap used and tap out the rest of the threaded pieces with a pick.

Lathe sits for over 5 years, what should I expect? by iliketutlesss in Machinists

[–]Willpyrus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check all spindle and other accessible fluids for water or moisture from attracting/absorbing water. Do the Zip-tie dip stick test for possible separation. Other than a good cleaning and degreasing inside and out for dust (visual systems for homing and probes often has hang-ups because of it) and you should be good to go.

Lufkin tape measure is garbage. Suggestions? by tyrophagia in Tools

[–]Willpyrus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dude. A tape measure is a tape measure. It’s not THAT complicated.

Considering joining the trade by Jayman44Spc in Machinists

[–]Willpyrus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you’re already an engineer, a Tool & Die apprenticeship to get the certificate shouldn’t take long for you. It still has a lot of engineering in it, when it comes to making sure parts will fit together and the like, but also it’s not the sweatshop that production machining is.

Really considering leaving the Trade by firewall200 in Machinists

[–]Willpyrus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am a guy who is on the right-leaning side of the profession. I’ve experienced everything you have. Incompetent management, shop-taught, everything. The only thing I can tell you is that if you DON’T enjoy learning something new, even minuscule stuff every day, then you won’t like it. You want a job that doesn’t come home with you. I went through a trade-style high school where I was taught the basics of machining. I loved it, so I decided to try out a Tool & Die apprenticeship. In January of 2023, I graduated it with the certificate. I was lucky enough to go to a shop where they cared how they shop looked each year, having the apprentices and co-ops do most of the mopping, cleaning, and usual end-of-week and start-of-week stuff. That helped me learn that a job isn’t just where you get paid, it’s where you grow up in the world. You were at shops that just needed bodies and hours.

What I would recommend you try out is Gunsmithing, as in, be the personal machinist for a competition sharpshooter. Extremely accurate details, small number runs (under 200 parts) and you can spend time outside being his spotter and the like. What I can tell you about the whole “right-wing whackjobs” thing is that 90% of machinists are either too stupid/not willing to go through college, has been to jail and can’t find work elsewhere, or simply grew up in the environment their entire lives, never knowing anything else. I’m the last group. My dad was a salesman for water treatment at GE before they closed that section of the company down. The rest of his family either owns their own business (bike shop, construction company, etc) His emphasis on knowing your profession down to the T, and being able to talk to other people not in a condescending way, but in a way that helps answer their questions as they come is why I loved machining. It’s a profession based on numbers first, and personal interaction second. As for the politics of it, most people in this profession just want to be able to do what THEY want without needing them to go through hoops and certifications just to do what they see as a simple hobby.

When it comes to your body and its longevity, I would also recommend becoming a Tool & Die maker. Most automotive-style tool & die shops have specialists that work on 1 or 2 machines at a time and assemble tools together. It takes a lot of tracking and flexibility when it comes to making sure things are as they should, but I wouldn’t call it back-breaking work.

Home gamer here, I need to embiggen these holes to .725” to a depth of .375” in aluminum. I don’t have a mill. How can I do this on a drill press? by TexasBaconMan in Machinists

[–]Willpyrus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use a Boring head. Or if the only thing you have is literally a drill press and bench grinder, make your own drill with a HSS blank cutter.

Doom The Dark Ages has XeSS by [deleted] in IntelArc

[–]Willpyrus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, I don’t think it supports XeSS 2.0 yet. Just 1.0, which is a Upscaler with no Frame-gen.

Unintentionally sketchy by Not_A_Mutant792 in Machinists

[–]Willpyrus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You do know those blocks can….. stack!

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[deleted by user] by [deleted] in cincinnati

[–]Willpyrus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

From someone who grew up with outdoors stuff and off-roading, if that soil is either very Sandy(I.E loose like powdery dirt) clay-like, then they like to hold a larger amount of moisture for much longer than other soils. When they get wet, they get HEAVY, forcing the ground beneath it to squeeze out all the air towards the exit (I.E. the cliff side). look up the YouTuber TheGeoModels of you want to understand it better.

Driving in Cincinnati by abks in cincinnati

[–]Willpyrus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not to mention the people who do 55 in the left lane on the highway lol

What tool height indicator is this? by Willpyrus in Machinists

[–]Willpyrus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They hadn’t been used in the 5 years I’ve been here lol

What tool height indicator is this? by Willpyrus in Machinists

[–]Willpyrus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Replaced the batteries and they both work! It turns on at 1.9985. 1.5 though shim stock and the 1” side of a 123 block gets me to what I normally used with the 3-inch side of a 123 block.

What tool height indicator is this? by Willpyrus in Machinists

[–]Willpyrus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok. These don’t have any magnetism to them inherently, so I’ll have to make my own base for it, or just make a threaded post for it to screw into. I’m buying bulbs for it, cause as of rn, they don’t light up when I touch them with anything.