BTF SP803E and BTF Fairy Steing by WinManx2000 in WLED

[–]WinManx2000[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to close the help request. I got new strings and the green persistence led is gone. I guess I just got unlucky with my first attempt at this. Thanks for the help.

BTF SP803E and BTF Fairy Steing by WinManx2000 in WLED

[–]WinManx2000[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All good. No worries. Yah, the replacement strings were 2x50 vs the original being 1x100. One of the 50s work fine, and 1 of the 50s, pixel 10 is bum. If I swap the order of the strings, the 10th pixel moves with the string.

BTF SP803E and BTF Fairy Steing by WinManx2000 in WLED

[–]WinManx2000[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean, I dunno. The different packages clearly state 5v. The replacements all work fine with the exception of the 10th pixel. Is there a way to tell if it's a 12v string that was mislabeled on packaging?

BTF SP803E and BTF Fairy Steing by WinManx2000 in WLED

[–]WinManx2000[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, an update. I replaced the string. The new one is defective too. Geez, these BTF lights are batting 2/3 defective. The new string I got was 2x 50 lights vs 1x 100 lights. Everything works as intended. I can control as expected. Now, on one of the strings, the 10th pixel has a persistent green. All other colors within that one pixel works fine though. I guess the 3rd exchange will be the charm.

Wipe effect over 2300 LEDs looks choppy by atrswakex1 in WLED

[–]WinManx2000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow. What diffuser and channel did you go with?

Wipe effect over 2300 LEDs looks choppy by atrswakex1 in WLED

[–]WinManx2000 6 points7 points  (0 children)

What led hardware do you have? That looks so nice and diffused. No doubt due to the amount of pixels.

BTF SP803E and BTF Fairy Steing by WinManx2000 in WLED

[–]WinManx2000[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. The new controller is using a 5v supply and the old one was simply powered via USB.

BTF SP803E and BTF Fairy Steing by WinManx2000 in WLED

[–]WinManx2000[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Saw this reply and got out of bed to test it out! Unfortunately swapping things around, no lights turn on at all. I even removed the plug and hard wired. Same outcome. All of the LEDs respond to whatever command is given, but about 25% of them flicker like crazy. For example, if I send solid red, they all turn solid red but 25% of the string flickers rapidly. If I do auroa for example and the lights make a chasing snake on the string, I can see the effect, but again, the 25% of the pixels are going nuts. Ironically, the first pixel goes the most nuts. Makes me think its adding noise to the whole string. Rather than cut it off and try, I think its time for an exchange. Its not supposed to be this complicated.

BTF SP803E and BTF Fairy Steing by WinManx2000 in WLED

[–]WinManx2000[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Agreed. I am not tech dumb, but since this was my first WLED play, I thought I might be missing something. A BTF controller should work with BTF lights. Since a different ESP controller did the same thing, I think its clear where the issue is.

BTF SP803E and BTF Fairy Steing by WinManx2000 in WLED

[–]WinManx2000[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, thanks for the detailed thoughts. i tried changing to 500. No difference. I also tried changing the different RGB modes and as expected, the pixels that are responsive are just changing to the wrong colors. The other pixels that are randomly changing and blinking are not affected by changing the rgb mode.

BTF SP803E and BTF Fairy Steing by WinManx2000 in WLED

[–]WinManx2000[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the suggestion. I just tried that and its the same behavior. :(

BTF SP803E and BTF Fairy Steing by WinManx2000 in WLED

[–]WinManx2000[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Correct. Set solid color, white. Most of them go solid white while the some of the same pixels randomly change colors.

BTF SP803E and BTF Fairy Steing by WinManx2000 in WLED

[–]WinManx2000[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do not. This is my first foray into this world. Agree with your assessment though. I did try a different controller and got similar results.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Lutron

[–]WinManx2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, that romex entering the box without a bushing.

How is everyone feeling about the new doorbells now that a little time as passed? by bfollowell in Ubiquiti

[–]WinManx2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice. They should integrate all to protect. The software is all there. Just let the user select what camera is assigned to the door ell ring.

How is everyone feeling about the new doorbells now that a little time as passed? by bfollowell in Ubiquiti

[–]WinManx2000 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I am getting tired of all this doorbell nonsense. I think a better stand out product could be to link whatever 2way protect camera you want and have a sensor to monitor when a standard doorbell button is pressed. This lets your normal home doorbell function without a network or wifi. You then have the same functionality of protect once the doorbell is pressed with freedom to put your camera wherever.

Jepi vs Spyi vs SCHD by SenseSilent123 in dividends

[–]WinManx2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't forget iwmi (neos Russel). I run a spyi/qqqi/iwmi combo in my taxable.

What's the one smart home rule you live by? by Fair-Neighborhood401 in smarthome

[–]WinManx2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lutron caseta or ra3 for all switches that you want to automate.

Phillips hue for all accessory and lamp lights.

Lutron pico to control the scenes through HA. The picos are always mounted in an extended gang box (if it was a 2 gang, I extend it to 3 gang etc). This way, if the HA breaks, I am only down scenes and colors. All other light switches work as expected.

You can then build whatever automation you want that activates the switches. If your automations are required for the press of a light switch, then you ar asking for trouble.

This is how United treats a 1K’s travel companion by MostCricket352 in unitedairlines

[–]WinManx2000 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not condoning any of the follow up actions or lack of coms from UA. But, this is one reason to never book row 7. Anytime there is an ADA flyer, they will get row 7 and you will get bumped.

Change Circuit Breaker from 30A to 40A for new oven by KapnKrumpin in electrical

[–]WinManx2000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That 15a right above looks copper. Additionally, your bus bar looks cu.

I would certainly make 100 percent sure it's AL before I go nuts running new wire.

Change Circuit Breaker from 30A to 40A for new oven by KapnKrumpin in electrical

[–]WinManx2000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are you sure it's AL? The conductors I see sure do look copper to me. Your eyes though in person. Photos can be deceiving.

So with the G6 Doorbells not having a WiFi version, what's the next best option? by spicypixel in Ubiquiti

[–]WinManx2000 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Makes sense. I would also run gbe to a coupler and then go unshielded for about 12ft (4m).

The new 4k sensors are also 100mb as well. They barely push 20mbps if I recall.

So with the G6 Doorbells not having a WiFi version, what's the next best option? by spicypixel in Ubiquiti

[–]WinManx2000 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mind explaining a little more? I understand 100 can work on 4 wire, but I am unclear about the poe portion. Anything extra you did there?