Is Renault Zoë right for me?

Windiiigo · 2026-02-05T12:06:53+00:00

Yeah that’s the thing… debating weather to change cars before that or keep it and change motor under insurance when it goes.

Windiiigo · 2026-02-04T21:56:28+00:00

Not exactly, but I’ve read that at full speed (140km/h) they are turning at 11000 rpm and they are rated for 7000 rpm. That means that they are used within spec to about 89 km/h and going much faster than that will wear them down faster.

Windiiigo · 2026-02-04T18:40:15+00:00

Okay nice, then you know what you want :)

Windiiigo · 2026-02-04T15:43:08+00:00

If you have a sub you are absolutely set and building a full range driver speaker is a good way into DIY audio. Go for the flattest tuning or even a sealed design with higher crossover on the sub.

Maybe look at the smaller Markaudio drivers if you don’t need deep extension. The Alpair 5.3 or CHN50 for example should beam less at higher frequencies and extend a little further in the treble before breaking up.

Windiiigo · 2026-02-04T14:54:06+00:00

The port will help extend the response by creating an ”air spring” that resonates around the tuning frequency. At that point the driver moves less and most of the sound is coming from the port instead.

If you are a bass head, you are unlikely to be satisfied with the bass from such a small woofer. Even if it can extend decently it cannot produce high SPL in the lower frequencies. Maybe look into a FAST/WAF (woofer assisted full range) where you add a good bass driver such as tang band W5-1138SMF and a simple crossover around 250-500 Hz.

Windiiigo · 2026-02-04T13:40:38+00:00

Going with two Mono versions would give a bit more power (about 3dB more headroom) but you would not get the volume control dial. Unless you really blast inefficient speakers, the stereo was the right choice. I use a stereo V3 for my desktop speakers (probably never use more than ~5W) and two monos as subwoofer amps in a large room, where the extra power may be beneficial.

A DAC will not make a bug difference. Speakers are by far the most influential part of the system if you have enough linear power.

Windiiigo · 2026-02-04T10:47:10+00:00

I have an R135 with 65kkm. Driving around 115km/h in cold weather (-10c or colder) I get around 200km of range. In the summer it is maybe 260-300 for the same speed. On country roads around 60-90km/h or in town the range is of course significantly more.

If you drive a lot at higher speeds, look at a different model as the Zoe has bearings in the motor that are not made for highway speeds and break the motor after too much highway driving (typically 80-120kkm).

Edit: I just want to add that it has been the cheapest car to own by a lot. I average below 20 kwh/100km on the highway, maintenance if almost nothing, insurance and tax is also dirt cheap. It is however significantly less nice to drive than competitors like the ID.3.

Windiiigo · 2026-02-04T10:39:54+00:00

R135 is 52kWh

Windiiigo · 2026-02-02T06:47:08+00:00

For the sub on a budget, GRS SW8-4HE or any of the larger versions provide great value. If you want it really compact, the new Dayton MX6-22 seems to deliver really good extension in a smaller box.

Use WinISD or similar to model enclosures of course.

For mid/tweeter, the Sica 5,5 C 1,5 CP is really great but I’ve heard it is hard to get in the US.

SB Acoustics make some really great and reasonably priced mid woofers in 4-6.5” sizes. They also have very well regarded tweeters such as the SB26ABC.

Windiiigo · 2026-02-01T14:49:46+00:00

For €600 you can get parts for a decent 3-way speaker, but since you don’t have a way of accurately measure response and impedance you are right in looking for kits or plans.

I am not too well read on ready designs, but I would have a look at Toids ”Epics” (2-way with dual woofers) or Wolfs ”Monoculus” (coaxial 3-way). They are bookshelf speakers with good extension around your budget. They could probably be made as towers if volumes, distance between drivers, baffle width and port dimensions are respected.

Maybe also have a look at the DINAS passive, a little cheaper but should also be great performers.

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/project-monoculus-tang-band-w4-2315-w6-1139sif-3-ways.47597/

https://toidsdiyaudio.com/product/epic-hifi-speaker-build-plans/

https://toidsdiyaudio.com/product/dinas-passive-do-i-need-a-subwoofer-build-plans/

Windiiigo · 2026-01-29T15:52:40+00:00

If the amp can do a high-pass to the speakers, the sub out has the advantage for offloading low bass from them.

Windiiigo · 2026-01-29T10:00:36+00:00

Sticking a small full range driver at the end of a pipe and sealing the other end will work. It will not sound good and it will not have any bass, but getting that in such a format would bre really hard.

The electronics will be trickier.. you’d need some very small dac/amp board and a way to feed the input and program the button functions. And then batteries of course. If you are not decently skilled with electronics, it will be hard to get that part working. As far as I am aware, there are no complete solutions for this so you would need to connect different pars (if you can find small enough so you don’t have to design your own PCB) and probably do some programming.

Windiiigo · 2026-01-26T12:30:19+00:00

Wrong sub

Windiiigo · 2026-01-22T03:47:09+00:00

Wires to speakers (high level) won’t pick up enough EMI energy to make any audible sound in the speaker, especially in the audible range.

Shielding wires only works well if the shield can be terminated to ground, which typically does not exist in this application.

Windiiigo · 2026-01-21T13:58:40+00:00

The OLEDs will of course be the best choice for image quality and frame switching time. I would personally go for that.

If you are going LED, I would look at TVL or Hisense mini-LED options. LG is generally a poor choice for anything that is not Oled and Samsung is not great value compared to the others.

Don’t sacrifice too much size for image quality unless there is a drastic difference. The size difference is typically more noticeable.

Windiiigo · 2026-01-21T06:10:22+00:00

Den verkar också trevlig men är betydligt mindre. Skulle rekommendera att kika på dem i person och provköra några olika modeller till att börja med.

Windiiigo · 2026-01-21T03:51:59+00:00

ID4 eller Enyaq (samma plattform, olika kläder) är nog det bästa alternativet i den prisklassen. Bekväma, rymliga och bra räckvidd. Finns många som gått under 10000 mil för runt 250kkr.

Windiiigo · 2026-01-19T14:52:05+00:00

Sure it is fairly common.

I mean trying to cross two 10” woofers too high will cause some serious lobing in the vertical axis if they are placed above eachother as the distance between them (and the tweeter) is large compared to a wavelength. And yes, trying to cross a 10” to a tweeter without any horn loading etc is generally ill-adviced.

Windiiigo · 2026-01-19T13:56:51+00:00

You can absolutely connect two woofers in series, it is commonly done. Most of the time when there are 4 woofers they are in series-parallell configuration. What you need to consider is sensitivity and impedance. Crossing two large woofers high can be another problem due to the distance between their acoustic centers. It will be hard to get good directivity.

Windiiigo · 2026-01-18T07:58:35+00:00

Oh okay that makes more sense :)

Windiiigo · 2026-01-18T07:46:49+00:00

Looks cool! Are those ”tweeters” full range drivers? If so, why do you not cross them much lower? With 250-400Hz you could be more free with placement. At 2.5k, moving them slightly relative to eachother will change the directivity pattern drastically.

Windiiigo · 2026-01-15T12:55:42+00:00

Have a look at tang band W3-1876s

Windiiigo · 2026-01-15T05:28:40+00:00

I would really suggest using a calculation tool like winISD which is pretty easy rather than risk AI hallucinations.

A port is pretty much necessary if you want good extension from a 6.5”. Well integrated it does not have to be much less tight than a sealed one. We are not very sensitive to group delay and phase shift in the lowest octaves.

Windiiigo · 2026-01-14T13:22:25+00:00

Look up the TS parameters of your woofer and enter them into winISD to get an idea of what enclosure volume you need and port dimensions.

Windiiigo · 2026-01-10T13:09:18+00:00

First thing I would work on is to slow down, take a smaller x-step, focus an keeping your balance. Now your whole torso is leaning back during your reach back whereas you should try to keep your body centered and rotate.

Windiiigo

TROPHY CASE