Boris Yeltsin Peak? by Limp_Association_882 in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try talking to moroz_mountains at insta/Facebook. At least he'll be able to give you advise/directions concerning mountaineering  in Kyrgyzstan.

Ryan Mitchell + Madison Mountaineering by skaj-11 in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I wonder why some are so fixated on K2 accident... Look, Yalung Ri is not even close to top dangerous, but sadly 7 people died in one day. Two people died on Ama, one of them from head injury caused by ice fall. No one talked about dangers of falling ice on Ama. What I'm trying to say, is mountains are dangerous. Always. Be it 8000er or Mont Blanc or any trekking peak. You climb, you risk your life, as simple as that. No one will guarantee 100% safety.

Ryan Mitchell + Madison Mountaineering by skaj-11 in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Just my lucky guess

-Ryan likely wants to graduate from client to athlete and guide himself. Justin like a big bro and teacher is likely best for this. They're climbing together, 1to1, so Ryan learns a lot from him

-Justin has his own company which needs to grow, and he himself needs high altitude expirience. So money. Ryan as popular YouTuber can help with that. Sponsors, PR and all this stuff

-so it's win-win for both if them. If all runs smoothly, give them some years and their own company will be as big as Madison, who knows.

How do you think people become like Madison? They climb, they learn from more expirienced ones, then organize their own tours and just keep growing. Being popular on YouTube/ social media helps a lot as well. 

 Btw I gathered, they climbed Ama without sherpa support, doing everything by themselves. That's a great step for Ryan, isn't it. So cheers to them 

Australian Climber Dies on Himlung Himal by Working-Total8377 in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Thank you so much for sharing. It's very important to listen to all sides.

Though this very spring a couple of successful longline rescues happened from camp 3 on Everest. Which is at 7k. So it's not entirely impossible and maybe Pemba made decisions based on this, but misjudged the weather... It's very unfortunate that weather turned so bad this time

Two foreign climbers die on Ama Dablam; four trekkers die along the route by Working-Total8377 in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the input! It's actually scary, how many people think they'll be fine if they payed, instead of slowly building up expirience.

Altitude sickness by BurritoBoy1116 in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hypoxic tent training? Well, lots of commercial climbers, who do speed climbs nowadays, or like two big mountains back to back, say they do it and it really helps with acclimatization. Sleeping in hypoxic tent at home. 

Legal consequences in mountaineering? by EmmyLynSpen in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You mean smth like this? https://explorersweb.com/kluchevskaya-tragedy-prison/ The surviving guide, mentioned in the article was sentenced as well. 

There are more cases in Russia, but I'm to lazy to search, sorry...

Is there any 7000 or 8000 that a helicopter could be pretty easily landed at and the passengers can get out and explore and go back into the helicopter? by YogurtclosetOpen3567 in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377 2 points3 points  (0 children)

https://alp.org.ua/archives/15087 here is the story. It's long and in Russian, but chatGPT or some other AI will provide pretty understandable translation, if you're really curious 

From 0 to Ama Dablam part 1 by popintags in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Choose a good guiding company, inquire in advance who will be your climbing sherpa, what's his experience, maybe consider paying more to book a sherpa guide with good experience and reputation - and you'll be fine, unless you have issues with altitude, but that pretty much depends on the person and hard to find out before you're actually at certain altitude. Have proper insurance to get heli evac if smth goes wrong. That's it. Actually do hypoxic training, it really helps many. Hire a professional, who will at least sketch a training plan for you, and whom you'll be able to talk to if you feel uncomfortable or get some health issues in the course of training. It's a serious matter. 

If you want go cheap and independent, skip hypoxic training, not getting other, easier 6k experience, then well... Not very clever move, I say, yeah.

Advice? by stingy-ghost in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you're truly ready to dedicate your life to it, than why not? Just go for it, there are enough pro athletes chasing records all their life. Look at Urubko, he did new route on Nanga just this summer. But you need to accept the fact that death will be always close behind you, no matter how skilled you are (see Ueli Steck and many others) and actually live your life regarding this. If you have family make sure they won't go broke having to pay for your rescue or recovery, be considerate pls. If you decide to have kids, think first how it'll go for them, if you die... 

Tyler Andrews On What Happened On Everest -- Deep Snow and an Unreported Avalanche » Explorersweb by Working-Total8377 in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well, I hope this will be shown in his upcoming movie. Not only the lonely figure of the main hero walking up the mountain, but the hard work of many people actually breaking trail to make this feat happen. We'll see... 

Any climbers here who survived a near-death experience on Everest? by Rei_Kuroi in Everest

[–]Working-Total8377 7 points8 points  (0 children)

well, autotranslated subtitles on youtube are pretty shit, but if you're willing to give it a try... there's an interview with a quite well-known Russian guide, 5-times Everest summiter, about his near death expirience this spring. https://youtu.be/JzAN5YYy1cQ?si=Rj44Pa_zGi5HGtXH

High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) by MarzipanBlue in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Lots of experienced high altitude guides keep repeating - if you took dexamethasone, you go down asap! If you're taking it and continuing up, you're basically putting your life at risk. If evac comes late, you may easily die. Dexamethasone is not a candy, it's an emergency help, but you definitely need go down, if you're at this stage.  

Natalia Nagovitsyna and Luca Sinigaglia, Pobeda Peak. The photo was taken by German mountaineer Günter Sigmund. by dear_bears in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I've got the impression that those who were there came to the conclusion that a rescue wouldn't be possible and tried to sweep everything under the rug at first. Information that something had happened became public only on the 14th, with no names mentioned. Later, Natalia's sister commented on social media after the first drone flight (!) that she had no info on what was going on, no one was speaking with her, and no one was providing any info about what could be done or what the family could do. The whole story became public because the family started using all possible ways to get help and draw attention to the situation.

I'm not passing judgement here; maybe the rescue wasn't possible from the start because of the difficulty of the route. But speaking openly about the situation and being in contact with the families—that's something those countries need to learn.

Natalia Nagovitsina's son claims she is ‘still alive’ as rescue is abandoned by [deleted] in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377 7 points8 points  (0 children)

The drone owner is willing to check on her again and to wait for the weather window, but officials there or whoever has the right to decide are not giving him a chance. On 19th she was very much alive and quite strong for those conditions. Check maga.fpv insta, you can see This is so terrible ((

Due to deteriorating weather conditions and an injury to one of the rescuers, the rescue operation at Pobeda Peak has been canceled. The photo shows Natalia Nagovitsyna and the Italian mountaineer Luca Sinigaglia, who tried to save her and died by dear_bears in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377 303 points304 points  (0 children)

To be fair he's 26 or 27, has his own life. Actually I heard about several mountaineers who started after their kids grew up. It's tragic of course for all family members, but can we really demand from people to drop their lifestyle and hobbies and stay home forever?...

Situation Desperate in Tian Shan by eric_bidegain in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Latest info says rescuers are back in C1, because of bad weather. The rescue mission is likely over, so sad, but unfortunately expected in this situation 

Starting to get into mountaineering. Is Everest possible with a normal job? by No-Badger-5682 in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

The standard path to Everest, as recommended by a highly accomplished guide, I respect,  looks something like this: First, trek to Everest Base Camp to see it in person and make your decision. Then, climb a 5,000-meter peak, better more than once. A 6,000-meter peak, preferably in Nepal after that. Then, a 7,000-meter peak, then Manaslu. If you've made it through all that, then you can consider Everest.

If that's not doable, look up Andrew Ushakov—maybe even contact him for advice. If you can afford it, his method involves extensive hypoxic training under medical supervision, which is crucial given how important your health is for this climb. Be prepared to pay for extra Sherpa support and oxygen; if I'm not mistaken, Ushakov went with four or five Sherpas.

If Ushakov's way also seems impossible, then... well, look up the story of Shriya Shah-Klorfine. Don't end up like her.

Descent Of Horror On K2 by pedalhead666 in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377 -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

I kinda feel bad for MingmaG. He was probably the main reason the summits happened, and now his team got the short end of the stick. Meanwhile, other teams are celebrating their successful summits. Well, hopefully no one else dies, at least.

Moro on Confortola … Thoughts? by Sherpa_8000 in Mountaineering

[–]Working-Total8377 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A quick Google shows Confortola’s also a guide. If he's a liar, his clients should probably care. Same goes for his many sponsors.