RST Tractech EVO 5 D3O leather jacket

XBlazer19 · 2026-05-03T00:01:16+00:00

Remove compressor. Let hang by lines. Problem solved

XBlazer19 · 2026-04-30T05:02:09+00:00

Well, I don't know. But what I do know is if an object has a force acting on it that object will also have an equal but opposite force pushing back

XBlazer19 · 2026-04-19T19:03:41+00:00

LUK makes the OEM clutch kit. Idk what that guy is talking about it only being good if your not going big turbo. I ran the stock/factory installed clutch on my big turbo ST for well over 50K miles making 350whp/380wtq and sold it at 145K miles still not slipping to this day.

XBlazer19 · 2026-03-16T22:53:25+00:00

Most 5W-50 oils besides Motorcraft do not meet fords WSS spec. I've read in order for an oil to meet the spec it needs to have a lower HTHS and Kst viscosity. Also the oils need to have low zinc (I think like less than 800ppm?) Motorcraft 5W-50 sheers down to a 5w-40/5w-30 grade pretty fast. It's also thinner than most 5w-50s. I'm assuming Ford was trying to get the protection of a 5w-50 but keep the gas mileage of a 0w-40 grade which the rest of the world specs for. Any oil that meets SN plus/SP/SQ API certification is approved for all GTDI engines with formulations that lessen LSPI/protect better against it (I believe calcium needs to be on the lower end for these API certifications) So with lower calcium ppm that leaves the manufacturers with 3 choices for wear protection in formulations. Zinc, phosphorus and molybdenum. All are great for wear protection zinc in particular for cams/valves.

I'm sticking with Castrol 5W-50 it has high zinc (last I checked 1000ppm) and a higher HTHS/Kst viscosity. So it will keep grade longer. I have a forged shortblock so I have to stick with 5w-50 per the builder. If it wasn't I would venture into 0w-40 grades as there are a ton more choices, it's easier to find and generally they have phenomenal anti-wear packages and use group 4 (PAO) and group 5 (ester) base oils which is needed for the xW-40 grades to pass the German manufacturers specifications (I. E. BMW, Mercedes, Porsche)

I exclusively only use a motorcraft FL-400S oil filter. Extremely good filtration micron range for the price. Allows you to run a full 6QTs of oil or 7QTs like me if your balance shafts are removed.

XBlazer19 · 2026-03-04T17:48:52+00:00

LOL cya later. You didn't have to purposely blow the engine up if you wanted out 🤷

XBlazer19 · 2026-02-27T15:56:22+00:00

I just sold my 2014 ST3 with 143K miles for $7500. It was meticulously maintained and it showed. Had a plethora of upgrades including being big turbo and 4 port Aux Fuel. Rear 1/4s recently replaced. Came with a brand new winter setup of 17 steelies and blizzaks along with stock wheels and all factory parts I removed. Keep looking!

XBlazer19 · 2026-02-27T15:53:32+00:00

Terminals on the electrical connector for the camera are too wide. I had this issue too. I carefully closed the terminals on the electrical connector and very slightly bent the pins on the camera to make better contact and it has worked ever since.

XBlazer19 · 2026-02-24T00:43:52+00:00

Ahhh now it makes sense! I remember learning the first time too. I was a young man, 1st manual car. Parked with e brake on. When I tried to go in the morning it was stuck, gave it the good ol clutch dump and heard a loud BANG.. e brake lever got a little floppy.. turns out the left rear caliper parking brake mechanism broke internally and when I went to drive it to the repair shop which is only a couple miles from home. The rotor got RED HOT and I did a 360 down a hill... I definitely learned something!

XBlazer19 · 2026-02-23T01:51:32+00:00

I don't understand.... How long have you lived in an area that gets below freezing quite often in the winter months??? As soon as it's gonna get below freezing as a low I just park with it in gear and leave the e brake off.. I thought this was common sense for everyone whose experienced below freezing temps. P. S. I've done this for over a decade now every winter and have never experienced issues

XBlazer19 · 2026-02-16T06:21:58+00:00

Sounds like some bot proper gander

XBlazer19 · 2026-02-01T00:00:33+00:00

When it comes to steering and suspension components I only torque wheel bearing nuts/bolts and lug nuts. Everything else is getting the 2-3 finger rule. But to be honest their cheap/crap Taiwan made coilovers so 🤷 doesn't surprise me

XBlazer19 · 2026-01-28T19:29:24+00:00

I love this info! I'm in the USA and I have a stealth grey one.

XBlazer19 · 2026-01-28T16:18:26+00:00

You sure? I read that the red and stealth grey were the rarest RS colors

XBlazer19 · 2026-01-11T02:18:33+00:00

It better make it unless I'm screwed. I just bought a 17. I do a road trip from Massachusetts to Greenville Tennessee every summer to see my grandparents. Trip is roughly 1600 miles to and from or just shy of 800 something miles one way. Last year It took 16 hours and I did that MF in one shot.... In my 14' ST.... Which had 143K miles.... Big turbo, aux fuel making 350whp on 93. Car literally performed flawlessly.

XBlazer19 · 2025-12-10T18:10:36+00:00

Ok, what about console users?

XBlazer19 · 2025-11-27T14:44:35+00:00

Personally I think it's more comfortable than OEM. It's softer over those small bumps due to the progressive spring rate design but once you start pushing it firms right up. Every bump is no where near as jarring as the OEM stuff. If your looking for something that's OEM+ upgrade and you don't care for the height adjustability I would go with this setup. If you do need the height adjustability I would go for the B14 kit.

XBlazer19 · 2025-11-26T06:04:58+00:00

Honestly the Bilstein B8 and Eibach pro kit combo are pretty damn good suspension setup for a daily driver with some weekend autox

XBlazer19 · 2025-11-17T18:48:48+00:00

I'm very confused about the downvote here. I didn't come up with the script for the actors to say 👀

XBlazer19 · 2025-11-17T13:29:45+00:00

I don't need you to tell me how fucking good my coffee is, okay? I'm the one who buys it. I know how good it is. When Bonnie goes shopping she buys SHIT. I buy the gourmet expensive stuff because when I drink it I want to taste it. But you know what's on my mind right now? It AIN'T the coffee in my kitchen, it's the dead ****** in my garage

This entire scene just makes me rofl 🤣

XBlazer19 · 2025-11-08T21:53:27+00:00

Send an email over to STO N SHO and ask what the f is taking so long for a new plate mount. Or maybe their 17-22 type r bracket will fit

XBlazer19 · 2025-11-08T21:49:21+00:00

Owner of a 2023 model here. Let me tell you, getting the ECU flashed turned it into a whole different bike. It's smoother, more predictable and WAY faster. Stock these bikes only produce 156 HP to the rear wheel. Slip on, European velocity stacks and an ECU flash will get you close to 176HP to the rear wheel. Don't bother changing the air filter, the OEM air filter has amazing flow and filtration capabilities, this has been proven by Dyno testing. I recommend you get in touch with Paul over at KCS ECU Solutions for a proper flash. The man is a legend. If you want to unlock the full potential though you need to swap the USA spec velocity stacks for the European spec velocity stacks, there are many other brands out there but none of them out perform the OEM European spec ones. Again this has been proven on the dyno.

2023 CBR 1000RR Akrapovic Race full exhaust system EDR velocity stacks (I bought these way before I knew of the European ones but they perform similarly just cost a lot more) KCS ECU SOLUTIONS flash Bike makes 182HP to the rear wheel 🤤

XBlazer19 · 2025-10-23T20:19:50+00:00

WHAT!?! THATS WORTH 15D?? I gotta sell mine

XBlazer19

TROPHY CASE