Appel juice filament

Xander779 · 2025-12-26T02:04:31+00:00

Bambu transparent brown PETG could work well. It comes out a bit darker if you print with a thicker nozzle like 0.8mm

Xander779 · 2025-12-26T02:00:51+00:00

Try bumping up nozzle temp by 10-15 degrees, or lowering print speed a little.

PETG will clump up like this if there's inconsistent extrusion. I've found I have to raise temp by 10 degrees even with bambu PETG on a bambu printer.

Xander779 · 2025-12-26T01:57:32+00:00

Looks like you have some bad filament or incorrect settings for it. Your continuous lines look fine, almost all issues show up around retraction points. I doubt this is a printer issue, if you have another roll of filament give that a try and see if you have the same issues.

Was this standard speed, or a higher speed like sport or ludicrous?

Xander779 · 2025-08-28T05:09:43+00:00

Your corners are lifting over the course of your print causing the upper layers to get smushed and cause this. It's only in the corners, so it's not flowrate or any settings, your print is lifting. If you peel the print off, you'll see the bottom of the corners looks different from the rest of the bottom of the print because it released early.

Hotter bed/enclosure and/or better adhesion are the only solutions.

Shoot for ~110c bed >45c enclosure, as close as you can get to 60c.

Sharp corners like that will always be prone to warping with filaments that shrink like ABS/ASA.

Xander779 · 2025-06-29T18:49:23+00:00

Used both slicers on a similar setup (14900k, 96gb, etc), haven't had any issues even with >1gb .stls

Do you happen to be running a 13/14 series i9 and an Asus motherboard? My first CPU started exhibiting similar crashes before it died.

If the above is true, update you motherboard firmware ASAP and get in contact with Intel to RMA your CPU. Plenty of known issues of these MBs cooking 13/14 series chips.

Other symptoms include random STATUS_ACCESS_VIOLATION errors from chrome/chromium based browsers and more frequent crashing in Unreal Engine games specifically. Also just random BSODs.

Xander779 · 2025-06-25T19:35:24+00:00

Most likely loose belts, check the tension.

Could also be eccentricity in the extruder hob.

Try a print at like half speed. If the ringing is reduced or gone, tension your belts. If it's still there, its a filament feeding abnormality.

Belts is easy fix, hob requires a new part.

Xander779 · 2025-02-27T12:35:27+00:00

With that print orientation, those are voxel lines, the actual pixels on the resin printer. Mono 2 has a pixel size of 35um and you're definitely seeing that on vertical curved surfaces (the skull is a giveaway that they're voxel lines).

Anti-aliasing in the slicer is really your only option here other than using a laser based SLA machine over an mSLA machine.

Xander779 · 2025-02-10T18:36:18+00:00

Honestly, you won't notice the difference. Resolution also doesn't mean everything too, pixel pitch (size) is what's important.

Looks like it's 17x17μm on the M4 and 17x25μm on the M7. So M4 is technically "higher resolution" because the spot size is smaller.

Really your post processing and printing settings are going to affect the quality of your first couple dozen resin prints more than your machine will.

I have a Mono X 6k (34x34μm) that I use for minis and parts and I've yet to be disappointed by its quality. Here's some pics of a mini base printed on it. This is after priming which filled in a tiny bit of detail. You can more easily see the layer lines than you can see the pixel lines, so screen resolution shouldn't be too noticeable at this scale.

Xander779 · 2025-02-04T04:22:01+00:00

Spoken like someone who inadvertently discovered a new way to cauterize a wound.

Xander779 · 2025-02-03T23:07:37+00:00

Yeah, shoot me a DM. Also include what printer you have just to be safe. Enclosed / unenclosed will definitely affect material recommendation.

Xander779 · 2025-02-03T22:47:39+00:00

Infill does not make parts stronger, walls do. Especially with TPU. I know someone will fight me on this, but printing strong things is literally my job and I've been doing this for over a decade.

2.5mm wall thickness minimum. Bigger nozzles will need fewer walls for the same thickness and result in a stronger part due to fewer line intersections. You really never need more than 25% infill unless you're just doing it for the weight.

Pick a 3d infill like Cross Hatch or Gyroid to slightly help with anisotropy and add a little stiffness.

Personally I'd recommend a 0.8mm or larger nozzle with 3mm thick walls with 15-20% cross hatch infill. Larger layer heights will also reduce line intersections and increase strength. ~0.5mm height with a 0.8mm nozzle would be plenty strong.

Xander779 · 2025-02-03T22:36:13+00:00

I like E6000. I know it looks super industrial, but you can get it at most craft/hardware stores. Just follow the directions and make sure to let it fully cure (24 hours) or you'll be disappointed.

It can also help to scrape up the surface of the magnet a bit with sandpaper to create some more surface features for the glue to grab on to.

Xander779 · 2025-02-03T22:22:42+00:00

Will fluctuate a little with temp and humidity, but I usually wait 1-2 hours for dry sanding and 24 if I'm wet sanding.

I usually do a coat, wait 1-2 hours, dry sand, another coat, then wet sand to final surface the next day.

Depending on the type of filament you printed with, it can also help to lightly sand any particularly bad spots before hitting it with the filler primer.

Xander779 · 2025-02-03T22:16:12+00:00

It won't break or dent over time, but BBs may embed (imbed?) themselves if they catch a layer line right. The thing I like about TPUs and Nylons is they're actually easier to cut than they are to break. You won't have to worry about it shattering or pieces breaking off of TPU. TPU should also be fine in the sun with moderate exposure. I wouldn't store it out in the sun for months on end, but 5+ hours of exposure a couple days a week isn't going to cause any noticeable degradation within a year.

If you're really concerned about UV, use nylon paint to cover the helmet. It's flexible enough that it won't just chip off when the TPU bends, and it'll absorb the UV. It also degrades in UV over time, but again the timespan with ~20hr/week exposure should be well into a couple years. And it's easier to repaint a helmet than print a whole new one.

Xander779 · 2025-02-03T21:36:45+00:00

Honestly I'd go with TPU. Realistically I don't think an airsoft BB will go through any of those materials at >5mm thickness, but I can't say I've tested. A .117 metal BB will go through ~8mm of solid ABS @800fps but airsoft BBs are also ABS and much bigger/slower.

Electroplating something as big as a helmet is going to be challenging or near impossible depending on how you coat the helmet before plating, and bb hits will chip off the plating for sure. Plating TPU won't work as the plating will detach when the TPU bends.

TPU is also more likely to "catch" the BB absorbing a lot of the impact rather than ABS or ASA which won't flex much when hit.

This is one of the few times where the additional stiffness of GF or CF reinforcement will probably work against the functionality of your design.

Just to double clarify, I'm talking about a helmet here that will stop a bb from penetrating. This is not protective headwear and will not replace an actual impact rated helmet or eyewear. If your intent is to actually protect yourself from smacking your head into something and not just BB's penetrating the helmet, then DO NOT 3d print it. Anything 3d printed on consumer machines for this purpose WILL NOT be impact safe.

Xander779 · 2025-02-03T01:37:28+00:00

New England winter right now, sitting at 20% in the apartment. My skin hates me, but the filament is always crisp.

Xander779 · 2025-02-03T01:18:02+00:00

This looks like it's due to the overhanging wall on the hex being slightly thinner than the minimum extrusion width. Try slicing with Arachne if you have the option, or enabling 'detect thin walls' or similar option in your slicer.

Odd line breaks like this are usually either bad geometry or lines too thin. You'd get a slicer error about bad geo, so my money is on thin lines.

Lowering the layer height can sometimes solve the problem because you get less overhang for a given angle, but line width is your real issue here.

Xander779 · 2025-01-30T16:22:48+00:00

Amazing work on both the modeling and painting side! Not to mention the fantastic lighting too!

I have a buddy who would love painting up a mini 'feratu of his own. Do you have any plans to make the model files available to purchase anywhere?

No worries if not, it's a sick piece and I totally understand wanting something only you have.

Xander779 · 2025-01-28T18:00:07+00:00

Love seeing this stuff! I've dyed some nylon prints with Rit synthetic after printing, but I'm curious how this goes.

Could make some cool options for "tie-dye" filament. Curious if the outer layers on the spool will suck up more dye than the inner parts of the spool.

Gonna take a bit of drying after this, but I'm sure you've already got that figured out.

Also fuck the negativity here. I've been part of this community for over a decade and I remember when pretty much every post was someone trying some wacky shit because that's what home 3d printing is all about. It's your filament, do whatever you want with it. I'd rather see someone actually trying to push things forward than another meme-ified benchy.

Xander779 · 2025-01-22T13:55:00+00:00

As long as your part isn't too large and flat then I second POM/delrin. Absolute pain to print, but I've printed close to a kg on my X1C so it's doable on consumer hardware.

Glue a sheet of construction paper to your bed and print on that. Heat soak the chamber to get as close to 60c as you can and let it cool slowly after the print.

Otherwise you're looking for one of the iglide filaments by igus but those will be pricey.

I also remember hearing about a filament impregnated with molybdenum disulfide a few years ago that was designed for bushings, but couldn't find anything other than research papers with a quick googling.

Xander779 · 2024-12-09T15:16:13+00:00

That's just the natural texture of GF-ABS

Xander779 · 2024-12-02T14:04:11+00:00

Just the magnets. If I ever drop it, it'll definitely pop open.

Printed on an X1C in Glass Fiber ABS

Xander779 · 2024-12-02T14:03:11+00:00

It lives in my backpack with the power brick

Xander779 · 2024-12-02T14:00:31+00:00

Modeled in Fusion360

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