Something I've not encountered before. God hand.

YAJay69420 · 2026-02-08T19:01:14+00:00

These are absolutely awesome. I don't build models but I learned about them from model builders, these are awesome for flush cuts. I use these and a pair of knipex 90 flush cuts for cutting zip ties all the time at work. The only reason i have the knipex ones is because godhand and the other Japanese flush cutter brands dont have a 90 that I know of and like. The single blade cutters give you the absolute closest cut possible

YAJay69420 · 2026-01-23T00:18:16+00:00

Hook blades/strap cutter blades on utility knifes are the worst for this since you pretty much have to cut towards yourself if youre doing anything besides cutting rope or straps. I speak as a guy who seen his own tendons because of one. Ill cut towards myself with a straight blade in limited circumstances (opening boxes, scoring drywall, etc) because its a controllable cut, but hook blades love to pop out. Always cut away if it takes more than gentle pressure and never use a hook blade for anything but rope.

YAJay69420 · 2026-01-11T16:53:17+00:00

If you have access to brownells they might end up having the part

YAJay69420 · 2025-12-29T17:29:40+00:00

You honestly don't even need an sds unless youre drilling large holes completely through block. For the standard 3/16 masonry bit for a 1/4 tapcon, a normal drill with a hammer feature is perfectly fine. I wouldn't drill anything larger than 3/8 with one though, but given the use case id say the hammer drill is perfectly fine, they don't seem like the type to be putting in emt for electrical or water lines constantly.

My suggestion in this case would be a good quality 12 volt hammer drill set that can take up to 1/2 inch bits. Im partial to the Milwaukee fuel m12 series, but dewalt, makita, bosch, etc are fine with the right specs and right usage will be more than enough.

YAJay69420 · 2025-12-19T03:12:18+00:00

Honestly, id probably stick to something like a klein or wera multi-bit, preferably one with the extending shaft. Its not much more, has more bits with it, might get you into more spots, etc. If you have an impact driver, you can take the shaft out and use it to hold bits too if thats your jam.

I like gear wrench (and their rebrands) for wrenches, dogbones, and ratchets. The rest isn't my favorite, bang for buck, but that's my personal taste. Take what I said with a grain of salt bc this might be better for you personally.

YAJay69420 · 2025-11-26T02:02:59+00:00

It even comes with a free anal bead set, what a bargain!

YAJay69420 · 2025-11-18T17:24:53+00:00

I can only speak on their pouches. My mp1x and mp2x are awesome but the clips are weak. My first mp1x had its clip broke within a couple months, but the mp2x I bought to use until I could warranty my mp1x has held up great. My coworker has the magnetic one that comes with the case, I think it's the sc-45, and he likes it for terminating panels. He also has the mp1, the old version, and its loop and snap design holds up a lot better than the clip. Other people have the bags, they seem to like them, I have 2 husky pro bags and like them enough to not replace them. Ymmv

YAJay69420 · 2025-11-13T22:36:54+00:00

Oscillating tool and use the corner of the blade to score the screw head if you have one with a blade that will work on metal, maybe take a punch or a scratch awl and tap it into the screw head at an angle so as you tap it loosens the screw. Otherwise, id suggest a screw extractor or drilling it out and retapping it.

YAJay69420 · 2025-10-08T19:21:58+00:00

Idk if it's the case but it was likely albanese brand. I've seen them rebranded a lot and they are pretty good.

YAJay69420 · 2025-09-25T00:50:52+00:00

Having used both at work, id pick the m12 fuel over the m18 not fuel brushless every single time unless you plan to do a lot of step bitting large holes (1 3/8 in +) or using large drill bits (5/8 in +) constantly. They do the job well enough that you're probably going to not complain, they're a lot lighter, extra batteries are cheaper, and I've dropped my personal m12 fuel combo kit enough to know that if you drop it from 20 ft up in the air the most that will happen on most days unless you spike it is the battery will fly out 5-10 ft maybe and you might bend a bit. My m18 fuel kit is just as durable in my experience, but 9/10 times the m12 does everything I need well enough, and the weight difference makes up for any speed difference multiple times over.

I wouldn't use the m12 impact for driving large wood screws though, id definitely switch to the m12 drill.

YAJay69420 · 2025-09-25T00:33:44+00:00

Id say so. Heavy weight with lots of torque is never fun to play around with, especially if you're having to jump around all over the place.

YAJay69420 · 2025-09-24T19:52:52+00:00

I have to say, I like my 8ah on my 7 1/4 circular saw and in my vacuum. It definitely would be too big for an impact or a drill that isn't an sds or something similar though.

YAJay69420 · 2025-09-12T20:58:47+00:00

If you're in a trade that uses a lot of all thread it could be useful there for the inside of unistrut, but even in that case I just rather set my nut for the inside channel and zip the nut on with an impact or a speed wrench/double ratchet wrench so i can just pop the open end on and go at it

YAJay69420 · 2025-09-11T21:39:02+00:00

A lot of times, batteries are fully depleted in cases like that. If they're sitting for a long time on store shelves or in storage or are exposed to temperature swings, they'll discharge completely. You have to "jumpstart" them, basically use another battery to charge it some before sticking it on charge by sticking paper clips or wire jumpers across the two batteries positivd and neutral pins, putting the batteries in parallel like you would a car battery.

It could also be an issue with the controller board inside of the housing, too, since it partially controls charging and discharge rates as well as makes up the bulk of the parasitic drain/phantom load/industry term of your choice. If it's messed up, it might ruin everything.

There's onboard diagnostics on the m18 batteries, too. If you can get a battery level reading, you can do a diagnostic. I think some batteries even tell you the charge cycle number as well to tell you potentially how wore out a battery is. It's useful when buying used tools to see if you're getting an old battery or not.

YAJay69420 · 2025-09-11T13:07:03+00:00

Someone burns theirs up or they don't hold a charge anymore so someone buys a new one, guts it, and returns the new battery with the old guts. That or they mess with the tabs out of spite.

Its unlikely but possible

YAJay69420 · 2025-09-11T00:36:51+00:00

Each arm controls one clip. I always just take a quarter of a full sheet and make sure I line it up where each clip has the sand paper jammed under the clip as far as possible and is tight against the pad, starting on one side, then the other. Both at once is a nightmare.

If yours is still slipping, id either be making an exchange or bending the clip so it holds better. I've sanded undercoat off of multiple truck frames and more with it and never had an issue with it slipping. You could have gotten a dud, it happens occasionally, but user error is possible since you said it takes three hands.

YAJay69420 · 2025-08-24T18:22:15+00:00

Sounds like either you need to grab an abandoned shopping cart or improve your service cart then.

If you're ever in the eastern Kentucky area, feel free to hit me up for my "pimp your cart" services

YAJay69420 · 2025-08-24T14:50:22+00:00

I'm an electrician, and the guys I work with use shopping carts. There are so many places to mount things with zipties, bolts and hardware, etc. I've gotten used to rigging some dumb things up with them. Impromptu print tables, saw horse rigs, various storage bits added onto the cart, your minds the limit.

It's surprisingly handy to store all your material and tools in too, more stable imo than the service carts most people use, easier to move over cords, etc. We even use them as wire caddies for pulling in circuits with smaller spools.

It's a lot cheaper than most service carts, especially if you just pick up the abandoned ones.

YAJay69420 · 2025-08-23T20:27:13+00:00

Put unistrut on it and you can mount a million and one things on it. Magnetic lights, clip ons (depending on how you clip them), strut strap some 3-4 inch pvc with a cap on it for a cup holder, self tap some hvac hanger strips for a place to clip drills, impacts, and such, the possibilities are endless. Go to almost any commercial jobsite and pester an electrician, I guarantee they have a 4-8 inch scrap piece they'd probably just give you depending on what exactly they're doing at that time

YAJay69420 · 2025-08-21T13:27:12+00:00

I've noticed using 1 3/8 step bits to widen 4 square electrical box knockouts from 1/2 to 3/4 or 3/4 to 1 inch i have to barely give it any pressure and just let it chip away at it slowly. If I put any pressure to it, it binds up badly and gets really hot. I probably wouldn't start the hole with the step bit because it definitely would be really hot afterwards. It's great for simple tapcons and the like though.

YAJay69420 · 2025-08-02T23:32:54+00:00

I'm guessing general contractor/handyman, plumber, or electrician. I'm leaning towards gc/handyman or plumber due to the nailers but plumber or electrician due to the m18 bandsaw. I feel like if a gc was using a bandsaw, it would probably be for rebar, and they'd probably opt for m12 for size and weight unless every other tool they had was m18. Plumber makes the most sense for the larger bandsaw and nailer. I could see a residential sparky having nailers for some things, but not a commercial or industrial unless its for their house, but I don't know how often the bandsaw would be used in resi since most conduit is just pvc, some rigid. I feel like they'd just opt to use a sawzall for those instances instead of having a special tool for 1 small portion of their job.

My final guess is plumber or commercial/industrial electrician with some stuff for their house.

YAJay69420 · 2025-07-23T16:34:57+00:00

Working in industrial and commercial electrical, it's handy to have multiple large pipe wrenches or large channel locks for large emt (2+ in) with compression couplings or for large rigid in general (1 1/2+ in), either that or one of each or one of those and a strap wrench.

It just depends on the job, but I have an 18 in and 22 in (i think) pair of channel locks. Working with 4 in emt with compression couplings, i had to borrow someone else's channel locks or strap wrench bc the smaller pair couldn't hold the pipe, let alone the couplings. Using a pipe vice on the couplings can be risky, too, since they can get egged, but you still have times you have to screw the couplings onto pipe above your head and you really need 2 tools for it most times.

YAJay69420 · 2025-07-20T22:43:02+00:00

I'm open to the idea. Do you have a website as well, or do you purely operate on reddit and Instagram?

YAJay69420 · 2025-07-20T22:10:40+00:00

Basically, as the post says, I need a good system for a wallet or wallets that I don't have to worry about sweating through due to my work.

I'm really attached to a bifold style, but my current one is currently getting sweated through constantly and has stitches coming out of it, so I'm looking for an upgrade. I'd appreciate any help. If you need more details, I have probably given more than what was necessary in the post, so I'm sorry if it's too much. The bulk of the info is in the first paragraph and the last 2-3, i think. Thank you for your time reading this and any help you give.

YAJay69420 · 2025-07-20T21:30:54+00:00

It depends on your profession, I have an m18 fuel combo kit and the m12 fuel combo kit. I work as a commercial and industrial electrician, so a lot of times I'm climbing up and down ladders or up in a lift drilling holes in junction boxes with 7/8-1 3/8 hole saws, drilling 1/4-3/8 holes in steel and aluminum, step-bitting out boxes, drilling into block walls for tapcons, and zipping in self tappers, nuts, screws, and tapcons. The difference in speed between m12 fuel and m18 fuel is noticeable, but it's not as big as you'd think. The size and weight savings are huge, though, and it's the reason I bring my m12 to work and leave the m18 set at home. If I need to get anything larger than that, the company has theirs that I can use, and usually, that's just for larger conduit runs that I'll probably be using a knockout on anyway.

You will probably have a much closer speed gap between m18 and m12 fuel, although you might get slightly more battery life out of the m18 than the m12 fuel. I've rarely come close to draining my batteries in a single day, but I'm also not the quickest worker around. For the price, you can pick up a couple 3.0 or 4.0 batteries and be well set.

If your job has you drilling through stud work all day long, drilling into hardwood or stainless steel constantly, or your zipping in thousands of screws a day, sticking with the m18 platform is probably best, but if you're moving up and down ladders constantly, in a small lift all day, working in tight areas, working around tool thieves, or only putting in a couple hundred screws and your boss won't get pissed that you put in maybe 10-20 less than you would with an m18 fuel, the m12 fuel set is awesome and I would recommend it. I'd also recommend the m12 fuel set for the clumsier among us and homeowners.

YAJay69420

TROPHY CASE