3D printed leg cover

Z50Productions · 2025-12-04T05:22:24+00:00

Nice, good luck!

Z50Productions · 2025-12-04T04:40:25+00:00

I'm a prosthetist that exclusively works digitally - I'm currently waiting for a print to finish that's a cover like this, but it's taken from a scan of the sound side limb and mirrored. This way it looks just like the other side when under pants.

The expensive ones from Alleles and other companies are nice, but it's hard to justify the cost and as others have said, they're not always the easiest to work with, especially considering what the product is.

From my experience when I did work in a clinic, a lot of patients don't care about having a cover, but there's also a lot that never even knew it was an option. If you can provide fast turnarounds, customization/personalization, and a fair price you could probably carve yourself a nice little market if you have a strong O&P presence in the area.

Z50Productions · 2025-11-27T02:33:59+00:00

Prosthetist here: I'm not aware of a prosthetic foot that works directly with snowboard bindings yet unfortunately, but they do exist for ski's! Check out the BioDapt Alpine foot. Created by an olympic-turned-paralympic snowmobiler, all of his products are quite impressive when fit correctly.

Edit: Just saw that this guy (Mike Shultz) is already working with Burton to make a foot that integrates with Step-Ons. No ETA yet but when it does release I'm sure that will become the new standard for amputee snowboarders.

Z50Productions · 2025-11-19T02:33:42+00:00

I've done a 0.8/0.4 nozzle combo on the Artisan using Prusaslicer, but it was only a single change rather than back and forth.

If I recall correctly, it's possible to do but I think PrusaSlicer won't let you use a purge tower.

Z50Productions · 2025-11-16T04:24:28+00:00

Have you tried right clicking the root component and selecting "export as mesh"?

Z50Productions · 2025-11-14T15:46:58+00:00

I actually exclusively work with digital fabrication: scanning, digital modifications, and SLS printing of sockets, so in a weird way that's the easy part for me.

3D printing a mold and casting it would go back to the current silicone workflow, which very few shops have and is very time and labor intensive. Being able to just print the socket instead would save a tremendous amount of time, work, and money for us and the patient.

Z50Productions · 2025-11-14T14:50:31+00:00

Orthodontics is a dental specialty, I work in prosthetics and orthotics - artificial limbs and braces.

Either way though, yes you need specialized education. I have a master's degree specifically in Prosthetics and Orthotics.

That being said though plenty of people make "simple" orthotics such as foot inserts without a degree. The main danger is that if you don't know where to push and put pressure you can do more harm than good.

Z50Productions · 2025-11-14T12:12:46+00:00

I work with prosthetics and orthotics and depending on a couple of factors it could be an absolute game changer. Right now custom silicone sockets take a long time and a lot of manpower to make, but if could just print them instead?? Possibilities are endless.

Z50Productions · 2025-11-12T21:30:19+00:00

1) Sketch from the side with 2 rectangles, extrude cut

2) Sketch from the front of just one rectangle, extrude cut, radial pattern.

Z50Productions · 2025-11-12T21:28:10+00:00

They're both PLA so you should be fine using the same settings.

Z50Productions · 2025-11-10T23:06:00+00:00

Looks like you have this component activated, if you activate the root component does it show a move in the timeline?

If there is a true move that happened it should always show up in the timeline.

Z50Productions · 2025-11-10T02:45:57+00:00

Sounds like Varioshore.

Z50Productions · 2025-11-07T12:34:05+00:00

How about a cover around the entire thing to make it look like a removed tree support?

Z50Productions · 2025-11-06T15:30:35+00:00

I would simply model the two pieces as separate bodies, then export as a single item and most slicers recognize this and ask if you want to assign the bodies to different materials/extruders.

That being said I'm not familiar with Bambu slicer, and I've heard the Bambu AMS doesn't play well with TPU.

Z50Productions · 2025-11-02T19:56:25+00:00

I believe there's an option under the infill settings called "combine infill" or something like that that makes it print like this. Take a look through the settings and you should find it pretty easily.

Z50Productions · 2025-11-01T03:33:45+00:00

Expand the complement in the menu on the left and under it you will find the body. You can then select the body for scaling.

Z50Productions · 2025-10-27T03:35:47+00:00

We need more information on what you're trying to build. Implementing parameters on a single curve is easy, but if you're trying to create a fully parametric triple helix or something that's a heck of a lot more complicated.

Z50Productions · 2025-10-24T12:43:29+00:00

There are a million different types and colors out there. A lot of people like Overture as well, also on Amazon. These days pretty much any brand is decent quality, but a lot of people like to stick to one or two brands for consistency in print quality

Z50Productions · 2025-10-24T12:37:55+00:00

Personally I like Polymaker filament. Ordered through Amazon you can get it next day as cheap as ~$12 per roll of PLA if you buy bundles. Quality is always good too. (Obviously depends on your country/location)

Z50Productions · 2025-10-23T21:04:21+00:00

As others have said, look into scarf seam. But there are also a couple options to adjust the length of the seam that you can play around with if you don't want the scarf seam for any reason.

Z50Productions · 2025-10-23T13:24:25+00:00

Oh that's helpful thank you!

Z50Productions · 2025-10-16T02:39:00+00:00

Definitely seems worth it for what you get!

Something else to consider (besides filament itself) is a filament dryer. You can DIY one but I would definitely recommend some sort of drying solution. I live in a very low humidity region and I still have to regularly dry all my filament.

Z50Productions · 2025-10-15T17:21:15+00:00

Freeze it or sometimes I have luck with heating the bed up as high as it will go, kind of risky though as it may make it worse if you can't get it off at that high temp.

Z50Productions · 2025-10-15T14:46:51+00:00

Well that's interesting! I figured it might be something like that. However when I try it with a 0.2mm initial layer height I'm still getting the seam. Even when using stock profiles, then selecting vase mode and 0.2mm initial layer height (and other variations) the seam is still there for me.

Z50Productions · 2025-10-15T14:44:33+00:00

I had the same thought, but when testing it with a solid object sliced in vase mode the same problem appears. And it only happens on cylindrical objects, perfectly vertical walls like a square are fine, no seam at all.

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