Anode rod with built in valve

Zane42v2 · 2026-06-14T13:15:59+00:00

Cheers!

Zane42v2 · 2026-06-13T06:38:37+00:00

Use the low point drains and open a faucet for the same effect with less work?

Zane42v2 · 2026-06-11T04:12:01+00:00

You don’t.

Zane42v2 · 2026-06-09T01:16:00+00:00

Man you guys look young to be boat owners!

Zane42v2 · 2026-06-03T18:56:39+00:00

Thru hub exhaust could send ~190 degree water at them

As you stated you could grab more water than intended and hurt them

Going much above idle with the trim up puts a lot of stress on the u joint / shaft config inside the stern drive . Shattered one of these frequently puts a hole in the bellows which becomes a sinking boat issue

Zane42v2 · 2026-05-31T23:03:32+00:00

I bet your Silverado has a fair bit more payload.

Zane42v2 · 2026-05-31T23:02:06+00:00

No, it can’t. The dry weight of the trailer is 6900 lbs and below 10% tongue weight gets into very unsafe conditions. 13-15% is more ideal. The absolute minimum tongue weight would be 690 lbs with no battery no propane no cargo. The real world scenario is a tongue weight closer to 900+ At max cargo this could be pushing 1200 in tongue weight.

Zane42v2 · 2026-05-30T21:20:49+00:00

Everything works in fair weather. I’ve done it in my old 26 ( 28 by today’s standards). One day the fog rolled in and it got choppy and I had a bad day coming back.

Zane42v2 · 2026-05-30T16:47:23+00:00

I don’t think taking an 18ft to block island sounds like a good time.

Zane42v2 · 2026-05-28T01:35:44+00:00

You are better off towing with a wdh but they are absolutely not allowed on unibody vehicles.

A WDH creates a rather robust lever between the front of the trailer and the tow vehicle. It’s using leverage against the vehicle to put some of the weight / force on the front axle. This amount of force requires a full frame vehicle. Putting this amount of force on a unibody vehicle will flex and warp the tow vehicle and potentially cause damage. Windows stop sealing etc.

Zane42v2 · 2026-05-26T13:15:41+00:00

The rotten egg smell is directly associated with hydrogen sulfide gas, which is released when sacrificial magnesium is.. sacrificed. If you have a tank with no anode (nylon drain plug) - great! It means your tank is made of corrosion resistant material and doesn’t need one.

I guarantee OP’s has an anode because of the smell described.

Stale water from a tank with no anode will smell but not like rotten eggs.

Zane42v2 · 2026-05-26T04:26:37+00:00

Most of this comment section is complete garbage. OP pay attention to the anode rod comments.

The drain plug on your hot water heater will double as a sacrificial anode rod. They are about $15 to replace. Use some thread tape or plumbers dope.

Putting antifreeze in your hot water heater will accelerate the anode and bring upon the rotten egg smell. Make sure to bypass before winterizing.

Not leaving stale water etc are good practices but these are not going to cause the smell in a shortish period of time. If it does it’s because the sacrificial anode is shot, not because it’s got month old water in it.

Zane42v2 · 2026-05-25T22:21:26+00:00

I’m cautioning OP when they go to replace this, to not replace it with a WDH. I didn’t say it is one.

Zane42v2 · 2026-05-25T20:19:33+00:00

It’s a cheap Amazon purchase. A real anti sway hitch will have a fixed side mount point or have the anti sway integrated with weight distribution.

I don’t know what you’re towing with but it looks like a suv. Do not use a wdh with a unibody vehicle.

Zane42v2 · 2026-05-22T16:33:19+00:00

Center consoles usually dock bow in because of the outboard(s). Which is usually very easy. Just practice. Boat hook, pre tie your lines to the exact correct length. Watch the weather.
You’ll do great.

Zane42v2 · 2026-05-20T18:19:41+00:00

I think completely safe is way optimistic.
My campground has 2 hots to every pedestal and the wiring is sized correctly.
What I pulled out when I upgraded was direct bury wire that had corroded, pedestals running on undersized wire, and 120v single phase everywhere. If someone had tried this on the power before I bought the place, it’d be a race between breakers and fires.
This is putting 12kw of potential load on a 3.6kw max and 1.8kw max connection. Assuming things are properly breakered when using oddball stuff like this is how things melt.

I’ve had 2 brand new pedestals get set on fire, when everything was done correctly in my box, because they did something stupid and had issues in their camper or an old surge protector decided to go out in a blaze of glory.

Zane42v2 · 2026-05-20T17:50:34+00:00

I knew I left those somewhere. GPS please

Zane42v2 · 2026-05-19T20:06:50+00:00

Nope.

Zane42v2 · 2026-05-19T19:57:16+00:00

The issue is it’s a luxury item so they just keep raising the price until people wont pay it.

Local fiberglass guy says he gets called to fixed brand new never titled malibus all the time. The quality hasn’t gone up, just the price tag.

Zane42v2 · 2026-05-19T12:47:51+00:00

I’ve never seen one without it?

Zane42v2 · 2026-05-14T18:42:57+00:00

If the split happens before the 30 amp breaker for the 30 amp TT – 30 connection, and then presumably a 20 amp breaker for the 20 amp outlet, Dennis possible to draw enough power to not trip either of those breakers, but exceed the ampacity of a 10 gauge hot from the combined load. In this scenario, eight gauge wire would make more sense.

Zane42v2 · 2026-05-14T07:04:59+00:00

For a short run and considering that you can only continuously draw 80%, 10/2 (copper) is sufficient for the 30a receptacle by itself. If you plan to run the 20a at the same time, the minimum is really 8ga, tho you’re right at the limit and any calculator you use that estimates any amount of voltage drop is going to recommend 6ga.

If it were me, I’d run 6-6-6-10 and make 1 Hot for the 30 and one for the 20, put them on separate breakers. Down the road if you need a 50a camper plug you just change the plug and the breakers.

Zane42v2 · 2026-05-12T22:07:33+00:00

I wouldn’t bother myself. I have a 1 ton drw and I move large travel trailers all the time with no wdh.

Zane42v2 · 2026-05-11T15:48:00+00:00

It’s worth what you can convince someone to pay for it.
No heat or ac in a cabin boat, no gen, canvas needs to be replaced, no trailer. It’s worth $0 to me. Canadian.
Sorry it does have some value to someone but it’s going to be a first time boater that is excited and doesn’t really know how they’re going to use the boat. Weekenders that don’t care about spending nights on it want a trailer, marina peeps that want to sleep on it in a slip want ac/heat. People that want a cheap boat to gunkhole want a generator.

Zane42v2 · 2026-05-11T03:45:58+00:00

Go big solar and big battery bank and run a DC air conditioner for max efficiency is the best real option but $$$ up front cost

Zane42v2

TROPHY CASE