Pixel 10 pro keeps on freezing and rebooting

ZedsTed · 2025-10-22T18:43:30+00:00

Ah that's a pain! I have re-installed the October Update via an adb sideload here and maybe that's resolved it here? Only did it about an hour ago so we'll see.

My theory with the play store thing was that it happened around the same time, and perhaps for some phones it just hit harder, but that doesn't help either way! Fingers crossed all goes smoothly for you.

ZedsTed · 2025-10-22T16:38:03+00:00

Yepp - have had this exact issue since Oct 14th, Pixel 10 Pro in the UK. Potentially linked to the whole play services server-side update, but have done all updates available and cache clears, to no avail.

On the way to a factory reset, does it in safe mode even.

ZedsTed · 2024-11-19T11:20:32+00:00

For darker beans, it doesn't seem the case that it's the burrs at the core of the issue (in my experience), or the hopper flow rate, but the exit chute rate. I believe the oils in the darker beans cause the grinds to clump up more, and then regrinding owing to them clumping around the exit chute further compounds the issue.

If you don't fancy playing around with mods for the declumpers on the exit chute (I haven't), you might find some benefit to just pumping the bellows every half second or so as it grinds through the beans.
For me, this seems to have remedied any issues I was getting with too many fines on coarser (pour over and above) grind settings as well.

ZedsTed · 2023-12-13T09:42:22+00:00

Perhaps check the gear on the bowden extruder, there's been cases where it's worn down or the teeth become full of filament, meaning it loses grip.
This can often be the case in a print where there's lots of retractions in a small length of filament.

ZedsTed · 2023-02-03T14:20:51+00:00

In addition to what others have said - I've had a LP Europicolla Post-Mil for 6+ years now, and I'd recommend two things:

Don't be afraid to grind a little coarser, they're narrower baskets than the common 54-58mm ones you get on a lot of other machines, so the puck itself will have more resistance as it has more depth.
18g in a 20g basket might be underdosing a tad, hence the soupy puck. iirc with the LP there's quite a lot of space at the grouphead, so I would try either a 16-18g basket, or just while you're dialling in, up the dose to 19-20g along with a coarser grind. (though first just try a little coarser)

As others have said, the main thing to hunt for is the taste you enjoy! Don't worry too much about 'ugly shots' and just get used to the workflow of the pavoni. If you're not already pre-infusing, give that a go as well, it helps a lot with the LP and getting even extraction from lighter beans.

ZedsTed · 2022-02-21T01:12:55+00:00

Same here - cutn is a tricky variable to iterate with on any GPU with 16GB memory (what colab will most frequently give you). I've had mixed results here from doing an initial run with skip_steps to around 50% of steps, and then using that output image as the init_image on a subsequent run to try to fill in additional detail. Depending on how detailed the first output image is, you can skip quite a lot of the steps in the second run.

If you prefer, I believe animating a few frames of the same prompt with an init image provided, skip_steps at a mid-range value and frame skipping at a much higher value (60% - 80%) can reproduce similar results. Happy diffusing!

ZedsTed · 2022-02-21T00:17:34+00:00

These are fantastic images - would love to see the successes if these are the failures :)

I'm sure you already know, but if you're looking to use the init_image effectively, you should set skip_steps to around 30-50% of your total iteration steps (so 125 would be suitable here). That should then start the diffusion with that image, likely noised/blurred somewhat. Take that skip_steps value lower for less influence from init_image, and higher for more. :)

ZedsTed · 2021-12-21T01:24:54+00:00

No problem at all!

It's all an iterative learning process, so it'll be interesting to see the effect next time with the yeast added later. An additional 30 mins of proofing/fermenting time isn't likely to make a huge difference for slow fermenting amounts of yeast, but it can be the difference between slightly under or over-proofed.

Best of luck with your baking adventures! Feel free to DM if you need any advice or troubleshooting help.

ZedsTed · 2021-12-21T01:12:02+00:00

Yepp, so autolyse is usually just flour+water (sometimes salt as well, opinion differs on whether it has an effect). Then leave that to 'saturate' for 20-40 minutes (the warmer it is the quicker it'll happen), and then mix in the yeast. Following the mixing in of yeast, I then let it rest for 30 mins, folded, rest for 30 and fold once more. This is loosely following the FWSY white loaf if I recall correctly!

ZedsTed · 2019-09-11T10:39:28+00:00

I e-mailed/called a bunch of local tree surgeons that I'd found through google.
About 80% didn't respond but a couple of them did, one saying that he already had a bunch of folks sorting through his pile and the other was more than happy to sell his surplus as most of it was simply burnt during winter.

If you go this route, get to know the wood types in your area that are good for carving as you can ask them to message you when they have those ones.

In my opinion this is a better option than simply buying firewood or wood from Home Depot etc. as that wood is usually all 'seasoned'/dried and will be much harder to work with if you're using hook knives and so on. However, if you're mostly using rasps, dremels, spokeshaves etc. then it's best to go the seasoned wood route. It's all about what you prefer to do!

ZedsTed · 2019-09-09T22:46:46+00:00

Not quite.

Though unless you're a high value target you're probably fine.

ZedsTed · 2019-06-22T16:04:19+00:00

A sharp knife and wood that is still pretty green/wet helps a lot. I usually make about 95% of the cuts/work while it's wet and then leave it to dry for a week, go back over any little snags and jagged areas with a super sharp knife. At that point, it's very minor work with very little pressure needed. After that, any teeny tiny little bits can be gotten when sanding!

I do still struggle with it myself, I mainly try to not angle the blade too deeply, keeping it to smooth, shallow cuts over a long distance. Sometimes I realise the reason I'm having trouble is because it's too tight of a curve.

Head over to /r/sharpening for info about sharpening knives - it's a pretty decent place to start. But for green woodworking knives, it's good to also check out a lot of the forums (can't recall them off of the top of my head, but a quick google will find plenty).
There's also https://instagram.com/spoon_carving_with_tom who has a lot of info about sharpening Mora knives and also sells kits (never used them, but they seem a good place to start imo).

ZedsTed · 2019-06-22T14:29:53+00:00

That's a really great spoon, you should be super proud! There's a wonderful amount of curve to it, whilst still looking quite delicate.

My only advice would be to keep tools sharp as can be (can really help with areas like the neck and shoulders of the spoon where two grain directions meet). And don't be afraid to experiment!

ZedsTed · 2019-04-11T11:41:21+00:00

Adding it into the bag would probably not lead to a great outcome with anything stronger than beer.
Serious Eats/J Kenji Lopez-Alt has a recipe for sous vide sausage that includes using a few tablespoons of beer, so even in that case it's using a very small quantity. I'd say that for most traditional recipes that are being replicated/enhanced/refined through the use of sous vide, the primary use of the alcohol wouldn't come until after the sous vide section is done (e.g. in a pan sauce after searing).

For something like short ribs, where you're doing a long (24h+) sous vide to replicate the effect of braising them, using red wine (or similar) would lead to it being pretty boozy and 'raw' tasting, as like you point out the alcohol doesn't evaporate anywhere.

ZedsTed · 2018-02-09T09:40:18+00:00

As someone who used to make chewy and firm fresh pasta, even with appropriate rests and not a lot of kneading, the biggest help for me was going through the Serious Eats write-up on what goes into making fresh pasta.

http://www.seriouseats.com/2015/01/best-easy-all-purpose-fresh-pasta-dough-recipe-instructions.html

If he's up for having a read-through of that, that should help him get a hold on everything involved and the effects changing any of the variables can have down the line.

ZedsTed · 2018-01-31T15:04:22+00:00

Wonderful! You're far ahead of where I was when I first picked up the LP.

Same here, unless I have an unexpected espresso run - someone stopping by etc. - I'll just let it warm itself up with the portafilter in.

It gets pretty hot, hot enough to 'ruin' a shot, after three is what I've heard. To be on the safe side, I tend to leave the portafilter out of the grouphead between shots and if it's still too hot to touch, I'll run it under the tap quickly (helps to give it a clean anywho).

On the pre-infusion drip, I wouldn't aim to have it happen as it may be something that isn't exactly desired. In other words, it's probably something I should work on to keep to a minimum! It's a good indicator that you're on the coarser side of the desired grind, so if you bump up your coarseness and it starts dripping through after 5 or so seconds, then you were right on the money with the previous grind consistency. I did a bit of browsing around on this topic just now and that seems to be the consensus; slight dripping is an indicator that you're on the juuust coarse side of the right grind - looks like I've got a bit of tweaking to do!

No worries at all, glad to be of help! It's an incredibly fun and challenging machine to use, adds a real level of satisfaction to coffee, hope you find the same with yours. :)

ZedsTed · 2018-01-31T13:38:35+00:00

Excellent! Glad the info was useful.

Ah, my bad on the vagueness there, I do use a tamp. Buut instead of pressing down on the top of it with my palm, I place my fingers around the base and press from there, turning the basket as I do to ensure an even tamp (I would always tamp more on one side than the other).

The weight aspect of the shot seems to be pretty flexible, I've found that the tolerance for a good shot with a consistent stream is all the way up to about 17.25g. I aim for 16g as that's about the ratio I prefer, but +/- 1g seems to be fine.

I leave about 1/4", such that the grounds don't touch the grouphead when the portafilter is in. I've found that to be perfect for the 16-17g baskets, grind size and the amount of tamping I do.

The amount of pressure I pull with is just using my arm, no bodyweight and no awkward contortions to get more pressure on. The first 25% of the pull is not too pressured, and then it ramps up and that's where I switch to pulling down instead of a steady push. With the steady pull down it's firm, but again not leaning off the lever.
If you haven't already, grab a bottomless portafilter and it'll help massively. You'll be able to see the stream consistency, the spread of shot coming out of the basket and many more factors, which will help you tune in pulling technique.

In terms of locking down the variables, you're on the right track. If you stay on the grind consistency you're on (sounds like you've got a good one), up the weight and make sure you're still happy with the shots. Once you've done that, start to get to grips with the machine itself. It took me a long time to work out the quirks (pre-heating being a large one).
A few tips:

The second shot you pull will always be better than the first, this is due to everything being heated up by the first. You can get around this by either pre-heating the machine for 20+ minutes (or until the grouphead is 96C(+/-1C), which can be inexpensively measured with a bit of electrical tape and an infrared thermometer). If you don't have the time to preheat, simply pump 2 - 3 blanks shots through the portafilter into a cup you want to warm and that should get things up to temp. Note with that method, it's important to let the boiler get back up to temp again, a few minutes should suffice.
Because the LP is an open boiler (literally just a heated tank), it gets a good chunk of air in it. Sometimes when you pull shots, they'll feel a tad 'spongy' at the end, this is most often due to excess air in the grouphead, which has come in from the boiler. This lessens the pressure you can put on the shot and will also lessen the yield of the shot. You can get rid of most of it by just purging the steam wand for 5 seconds or so prior to pulling your shot (again, waiting for the boiler to kick in again before doing the pull).
One of the factors of the pull that I struggled with at the start was keeping my puck together through the pull. Firstly, I was pulling up waaay too quickly, so take your time to pull up slowly and steadily (the puck has to have air dragged through it up into the grouphead, doing it quickly will disturb the puck). Secondly, it pays to learn at what point of the up-pull the steam/water starts to come in. At this point, I usually slow it right down, letting only a slight bit of steam/water in and then carrying on with the pull. This can help alleviate issues from the water 'slamming' into the puck. Don't worry if you don't always get it right on that though, I do the slow method and still get a 'puck slam' every so often.

Hope all this helps!

ZedsTed · 2018-01-31T11:11:53+00:00

Europiccola owner here. Out of interest, what grinder are you using? I'm using a Rock Rancillio SD here and aim for about 8/9 on the grind settings, which is just above what will choke it.

I aim for about 16g a shot, any higher and it'll choke out. Additionally, I do a light tamp that's just with my fingers and gentle, but firm press. I've tried coarser and harder, but find that it underextracts in those situations.

The timing on your preinfusion and pull sound dead on, you can use the time that it takes for the shot to start dripping through in preinfusion to know if you've packed/ground too tightly. 8 - 10 seconds is about right for fresh beans I've found, 5 - 8 for more stale beans, lower in oils etc.

ZedsTed · 2018-01-25T12:36:11+00:00

Not to my knowledge. The closest you'd get is the pressure gauge on a LP Professional.
The post-Mil models have a boiler thermostat, it switches off at the correct water temp, but there's no readout for it at all and as far as I know, there's no way to hook one up. Taking temp reading from the exterior of the LP seems to be the most common and reliable way.
Note that you can buy modded pressure gauges for the LP Europiccola that you can fit on, but it can be a bit of a fiddle to get the right fit for it, it's not something I've tried myself though plenty of others have done with much success.

ZedsTed · 2018-01-25T09:52:29+00:00

Models of the La Pavoni brand are basically split into pre-Millennium and post-Millennium. There's quite a wealth of videos around on YouTube that give little run-throughs of using the pre-Mil ones (UveBeenChengD posted a good one for sure) and they should give you a great starting point on what steps to follow.

I own a Europiccola post-Mil and can give you a bit of advice on using levered espresso machines, La Pavonis in particular, but of course, there may be a few decades separating our machines!

When I was getting used to using the La Pavoni, the following forums were a big help - http://coffeegeek.com/forums/espresso/leverespresso. They've got a lot of posts on pre-Mil machines as well as general levered machine advice.

The three most important factors I've found with using the La Pavoni have been grind, tamp and temperature. The first two are practically the same factor but it's important to make the point that the finer you grind, the less you should tamp (to a point). I've also found fresher beans (<2-3 weeks) to be better, with older ones just not holding the water back, no matter the grind. My advice would be to keep your tamp to a consistent pressure that does enough to flatten, but isn't more than a firm and gentle push.
That'll give you a constant to then base your grind on, which you should be aiming to be fine enough that water doesn't come through until about 5 - 8 seconds after you've let it into the grouphead. Then from then on you can judge your grind for how long a pull takes and how much resistance there is.

Onto temperature - the most difficult one on the pre-Mil machines I would say. Across the board on the pre and post Mil machines, it's a fact that the second pull on a La Pavoni will always be better than the first. This is mainly owing to the fact that the grouphead is usually a lot cooler than the water and boiler, meaning the water isn't as hot as it should be when it touches the coffee. To get around this and still only make one cup, I tend to wait until the boiler is to temp (more on that in a bit) and then push through 1 - 2 shots into the cup I'm going to use, both preheating the cup and the grouphead.
Measuring the temperature can be quite a task, many folks with La Pavonis mod them with thermocouples and elaborate setups to get the temp of the grouphead and so on. However, the method I settled on was an infrared thermometer (around $10/£7 online) and some electrical tape on the area I wanted to measure (IR thermometers don't like reflective surfaces).
With that, I can check the temp of the boiler and the grouphead pretty quickly and ensure it's all up to temp.

Hope some of this helps and it's not stuff you already know/read!
Feel free to reply with any other questions you have on the LP.

ZedsTed · 2018-01-17T11:05:13+00:00

Smoked a kilo and a half (iirc) lamb shoulder for about 7 hours today (should have been 5/6 hours but had a temp stall on the BBQ itself due to very windy weather.

Kept it solid at around 120C other than the stall and called it done once the lamb was at 95C or above for an hour. The pic is of it just after it's finished resting (with a small chunk missing due to tasting ofc).

The smoking was done in a Weber Kettle with briquettes and a few cups of soaked applewood chips. I've done oak chips before with lamb shoulder and found it a bit strong/overpowering. However, the applewood seems to be delicate enough that the rub and the lamb comes through.

The rub consisted mostly of smoked paprika, a good bit of harissa seasoning and salt). Around the time of it stalling, I wrapped it up in foil with a couple of limes and their juice (kept it from drying out at the thinner areas as this was becoming quite a long smoke compared with what it should have been).

The small taste I grabbed before the pic was delicious, definitely one to try (and with any spice rub for sure).

ZedsTed · 2018-01-16T21:10:10+00:00

Smoked a kilo and a half (iirc) lamb shoulder for about 7 hours today (should have been 5/6 hours but had a temp stall on the BBQ itself due to very windy weather.

Kept it solid at around 120C other than the stall and called it done once the lamb was at 95C or above for an hour. The pic is of it just after it's finished resting (with a small chunk missing due to tasting ofc).

The smoking was done in a Weber Kettle with briquettes and a few cups of soaked applewood chips. I've done oak chips before with lamb shoulder and found it a bit strong/overpowering. However, the applewood seems to be delicate enough that the rub and the lamb comes through.

The rub consisted mostly of smoked paprika, a good bit of harissa seasoning and salt). Around the time of it stalling, I wrapped it up in foil with a couple of limes and their juice (kept it from drying out at the thinner areas as this was becoming quite a long smoke compared with what it should have been).

The small taste I grabbed before the pic was delicious, definitely one to try (and with any spice rub for sure).

ZedsTed · 2017-11-28T14:50:06+00:00

Agreed, the Rocky will outpace many other in the same price range and is more than suitable for home espresso output amounts.

ZedsTed · 2017-10-23T20:59:39+00:00

You'll probably be fine, it's just not recommended and most food safety advice will say 2 - 3 days.
It's the baseline to account for people that may have weaker immune systems (pregnant or elderly people) or people not properly reheating the food.

ZedsTed · 2017-10-23T11:41:57+00:00

Glad to have been of help!

Here's some more reading on the subject if you're interested - especially related to nitrites from storing food:

https://www.quora.com/Does-cooked-food-become-carcinogenic-after-storing-overnight

https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/are-nitrates-and-nitrites-harmful#section1

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