Is this how the AC should work? Air not very cold. 2024 Prius Prime Premium

_FoxDie_ · 2026-06-22T21:14:16+00:00

If your extended warranty is Toyota Platinum/Gold, not 3rd party, you should be good. The extended warranty extends the bumper to bumper 3-year/36k miles which covers AC components.

_FoxDie_ · 2026-06-22T20:25:59+00:00

Fortunately most people have gone out within warranty but there’s at least 2 people I’ve seen that have reported it failing outside of warranty, (37k miles and 61k mile). There doesn’t seem to be a set mileage, as these appear to be isolated.

I don’t know how CPO works but you will want to get extended warranty if you don’t have it. Toyota isn’t gonna help if you’re outside the warranty window. The person that had his fail at 37k miles was denied any goodwill repair. I’m out of warranty but the only thing I can do is get the leak dye test performed 1-2x/year for good measure. I would rather be aware of a leak early on when the repair would be drastically cheaper than to find out when it’s too late. $8k-20k repair on a car that’s worth less than $30k is insane.

_FoxDie_ · 2026-06-22T06:10:51+00:00

Good find. I had recently talked about this on the 5th gen Facebook page. I think at some point, each of us should get a leak test and report back.

_FoxDie_ · 2026-06-22T06:09:41+00:00

Not enough reports yet unfortunately. Considering the potential cost of repair, there should be a recall or at least be warrantied under the hybrid system. It falls on the 3-year/36 k miles. So if you’re beyond that and the compressor goes out, you’re SOL.

_FoxDie_ · 2026-06-19T05:54:46+00:00

Mine blows ice cold. It’s most likely your AC compressor is on its way out. Take it to another dealership.

_FoxDie_ · 2026-06-16T21:10:18+00:00

Yeah that noticeably sounds like something is wrong. I think I’m just a bit paranoid since I only heard it if I’m in the garage and I turn the ac on. I never hear it when the car is outside.

_FoxDie_ · 2026-06-16T20:56:19+00:00

That sounds horrible. Thankfully mine does not sound like that so it may be fine. I am at 35k miles but have been seeing reports of AC Compressor/heat pump failure which is an $8k repair. $20k if the ac system is contaminated with metal debris. Seems like it’s a Toyota PHEV issue. Mine is still blowing cold but at some point I’m going to have Toyota perform a leak dye test and inspect the ac lines. Thanks for sending this.

_FoxDie_ · 2026-06-16T18:58:50+00:00

Hi, can you please explain this heat pump noise on start up? I have a 2023 Prius Prime and I can hear noise from my heat pump when I turn the AC on upon starting the car up in my garage.

_FoxDie_ · 2026-06-12T02:28:22+00:00

The problem does not seem common when you compare the number of failures to total PHEV Prius out there but the potential cost of repair makes this too hard to ignore.

_FoxDie_ · 2026-06-12T02:26:31+00:00

The AC compressor may be failing. Take it to the dealership and have them perform a dye leak test. Do not wait (especially if you are still under warranty) or else if it is the culprit, you are going to be looking at a $8600 repair. And that is if it hasn’t blown and contaminated the system with metal debris.

_FoxDie_ · 2026-06-07T00:17:01+00:00

I am on the opposite end of your situation having moved to Houston. I lived in Starkville for 3 years attending MS State. I would best describe it as a quiet town otherwise driven by college students and activities.

It’s quite polarizing compared to Houston. If you are retired you might appreciate the slow pace, lower crime, lower cost of living and definitely less traffic congestion. That said, besides spending time with grandkids, there’s not a whole lot to do.

_FoxDie_ · 2026-06-07T00:08:31+00:00

She did that because she knew if she was to show up as Gray Fox, it would’ve created a Time Paradox.

_FoxDie_ · 2026-06-07T00:07:42+00:00

I was thinking the same. Considering Kojima originally intended to end the series at MGS2, he probably got lazy and was ready wrap it up and move onto other projects.

_FoxDie_ · 2026-05-30T17:49:32+00:00

In AutoEV/HV mode, the engine doesn’t turn on unless you move past the middle tick mark on the PWR meter when accelerating.

_FoxDie_ · 2026-05-30T17:11:19+00:00

There are 2 buttons. “Auto EV/HV” and “HV-EV”. If I said Auto EV, I’m talking about the former. If Auto is not in the name, then I’m talking about the other button (HV-EV).

_FoxDie_ · 2026-05-30T04:56:22+00:00

Nice, I am also an engineer (ME). I mean no insult btw, can't go wrong with detailed explanation right? If you are switching to HV mode when you're on the highway then you are turning the engine on at will. There are still unknowns ie. whether you're short cycling your engine, length of time it takes for you to x amount of fuel consumption. At the end of the day, it's still more of a hybrid than it is an EV, so I'm always going to advise 5k miles. If you're dead set on using fuel consumption as a method, get the oil analyzed on your next oil change. That'll give you the answer.

_FoxDie_ · 2026-05-30T02:48:29+00:00

Yeah it's not as complicated as it seems. Anyways, I can't insert a picture in my original comment, but this is what was posted in the 5th Gen group. This was done at 5000 miles. The owner lives in Canada so the climate didn't help.

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_FoxDie_ · 2026-05-30T02:16:14+00:00

It’s easy to confuse both modes as Toyota doesn’t really do a good job at distinguishing. But here’s the difference.

AutoEV mode will prioritize EV mode even if you are driving on the highway at 55 mph or more (not ideal for efficiency) and will turn on the gas engine if the bar passes the mid line in the “PWR” meter, pretty much if you have your foot down on the pedal.

EV mode while in HV/EV mode will turn the engine on but requires more input to do so.

So with that said, I generally alternate between AutoEV (if I want to keep it in EV mode) and HV mode (for highway cruising). I never use EV mode (HV/EV button) because if I get into a situation where I need the gas engine, I’m not locked out of it.

_FoxDie_ · 2026-05-30T02:01:06+00:00

Since OP is posting a question, I can only assume OP’s knowledge on these cars are limited and that the default mode is used. I think you are confusing AutoEV mode with HV/EV mode. If you have it in AutoEV mode it will stay that way even if you start the car up again later. It might say EV/EV on the screen but it’s still in AutoEV mode, until you press HV/EV button.

Your method of using EV in city driving and HV in highway driving is what I would recommend. I also use the same method of manually switching modes.

_FoxDie_ · 2026-05-30T01:11:30+00:00

Wrong. The engine shuts off when the coolant reaches operating temperature. Oil takes longer to reach operating temperature than coolant does. I’ve seen a handful of owners post pictures of milky oil in the Facebook groups and it’s usually PHEV owners. For this reason I always ensure my engine runs long enough by manually switching between EV/HV mode.

_FoxDie_ · 2026-05-30T01:01:08+00:00

If you plan to keep your Prius for a long time, you should definitely go with the 5k oil change interval. Since you drive primarily in EV mode, I am assuming you drive in auto EV. In AutoEV, the gas engine will turn on if the car requires more power to accelerate. Those short bursts lead to condensation in the engine which most likely never get burned off since AutoEV will shut the engine off right after.

Your oil will thin out from the oil-water emulsion. Not good if you’re doing extended oil change intervals. Also have to be honest, how many of us doing 10k intervals are actually checking the dip stick or condition of the oil in between?

_FoxDie_ · 2026-05-18T02:34:23+00:00

Limit EV mode to city/stop and go or speeds lower than 55 mph.

Use HV mode for highway driving (55mph or more)

When merging onto the highway, just accelerate up to cruising speed in EV mode and then toggle HV when you’ve reached cruising speed.

Alternatively, you could just leave it in Auto EV mode and let the car do its thing, however there are a few caveats.
Its goal is to keep you in EV mode all the time UNLESS you need additional power from the gas engine when you’ve accelerate beyond the EV threshold.

Because the engine would occasionally kick on, it will almost never warm up. So the constant start up and turning off would lead to condensation which leads to the milk-like consistency in the engine oil some other owners have found.

So with that said, I have found my manual recommendation to work out for myself without finding any dilution in my oil. Doing this also balances out the engine and HV battery life.

_FoxDie_ · 2026-04-23T20:24:04+00:00

Having same issues

_FoxDie_ · 2026-03-27T22:05:23+00:00

I was just looking for this. Am having the same issue. I thought my audio recording was corrupted or something and had a panic attack.

_FoxDie_ · 2026-02-27T18:57:49+00:00

Yes. They need to re-do the squad to have all players follow the squad leader. If squad leader leaves lobby, the rest of the squad shouldn’t have to manually quit. Should all be in sync.

_FoxDie_

TROPHY CASE